Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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JasonWW
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Bonham wrote:
Not measured the drain. 
Not used often and find critical voltage when checked.
One 30Q did not recover anymore.

If you want to measure parasitic drain, you need a digital multi meter. You can basically do it like this:

Set your meter and test leads to milliamp. Then take a battery and touch the positive end to the driver ring, then attach the meter from the battery negative to the driver ground. You should be seeing about 0.12 milliamp with the side switch lights on.

If it’s way higher, then you have a problem with the driver or a short somewhere.

What do you mean by “one 30Q did not recover”?

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fluke
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Guys could I buy the driver board and switch board and fit to a SRK Clone?

Might over drive the fake leds a bit.

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fluke wrote:

Guys could I buy the driver board and switch board and fit to a SRK Clone?


Might over drive the fake leds a bit.


Are the driver diameters the same?

Make sure not to bypass the springs.

I would think heat would be the biggest issue since the clones don’t use a DTP mcpcb, plus the shelf are usually paper thin if it even has a shelf.

Check out this video David Sunshine did a while back. https://youtu.be/efl0R63-ik0 I think he piggybacked a new driver instead of swapping it. He has a lot of details.

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shirnask
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Bonham wrote:
OK. I put new battery 30Q (first use) from BG after full load and measured about 3050-3100 mAh.
After about a week (now) its about 3.96 mAh V.

I’m happy with my Q8. I bought 3 of them.

Are you using button top or flat top batteries?

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I’ve used a button top battery.

Quote:
What do you mean by “one 30Q did not recover”?

The chargers I have do not start charging this battery.
The voltage was just over 2 volts, as far as I remember.

Thanks Jason for the measurement instruction. Thumbs Up

JasonWW
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Bonham wrote:
I’ve used a button top battery.
Quote:
What do you mean by “one 30Q did not recover”?

The chargers I have do not start charging this battery.
The voltage was just over 2 volts, as far as I remember.

Thanks Jason for the measurement instruction. Thumbs Up


What I’m wondering is how the battery got down below 2.8v. This is the cutoff voltage. The driver should not draw any power below 2.8v. If it did, something seems wrong.

Does only one of your three Q8s drain the batteries fast? Maybe it has a defect in the driver? I don’t know.

Doing a drain test might give some answers.

Maybe the MCU is not going to sleep after 6 seconds like it should? I’ll ask ToyKeeper.

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I think I remember that LVP detection does not work when parasitic drain is lowering the voltage very slowly. Tom would know that better though.

JasonWW
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Tom is barely around any more. Crying

So the lvp only works when the light is turned on? Well that is a bummer. I assumed it worked all the time.

I wonder what’s causing his drain, though.

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JasonWW wrote:
So the lvp only works when the light is turned on?

AFAIK no LVP can prevent undervoltage by parasitic drain,

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maukka wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
So the lvp only works when the light is turned on?

AFAIK no LVP can prevent undervoltage by parasitic drain,


Yeah, I guess that makes sense. You actually need to MCU to be operating and taking samples of the voltage in order to determine whether or not it’s above or below the threshold and that process is just going to create increased parasitic drain.

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mortuus wrote:
All those that have the q8 for a long time now, does it still work like a charm, the button is not weared out etc ??

Mine was from the second batch (#501-1000), which had the first batch issues fixed. It has been working great since I got it, and it gets used quite a bit. In terms of sheer number of hours, it has probably been my most-used light over the past year, but I’m not sure if that counts since it’s a whole lot of candle mode.

Anyway, no issues at all. And the button LED has been on pretty much nonstop the whole time.

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maukka wrote:
AFAIK no LVP can prevent undervoltage by parasitic drain,

Exactly.

The MCU also has BOD (brownout detection) enabled, but that doesn’t activate until 1.8V. So, if it gets that low, it’ll shut the MCU off even more than it normally can. Which probably won’t have a significant effect on the parasitic drain.

But LVP (which shuts off at 2.8V) only works when the light is actually on. And it sounds like whatever is draining happens when the light is off. So get out a DMM and start measuring things. It’s probably a hardware issue.

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I have one from the second batch. It’s been flawless in every way.

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fluke
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ToyKeeper wrote:
mortuus wrote:
All those that have the q8 for a long time now, does it still work like a charm, the button is not weared out etc ??
Mine was from the second batch (#501-1000), which had the first batch issues fixed. It has been working great since I got it, and it gets used quite a bit. In terms of sheer number of hours, it has probably been my most-used light over the past year, but I'm not sure if that counts since it's a whole lot of candle mode. Anyway, no issues at all. And the button LED has been on pretty much nonstop the whole time.

 

Are they marked with a number?

fluke
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JasonWW wrote:
fluke wrote:

Guys could I buy the driver board and switch board and fit to a SRK Clone?

Might over drive the fake leds a bit.

Are the driver diameters the same? Make sure not to bypass the springs. I would think heat would be the biggest issue since the clones don't use a DTP mcpcb, plus the shelf are usually paper thin if it even has a shelf. Check out this video David Sunshine did a while back. https://youtu.be/efl0R63-ik0 I think he piggybacked a new driver instead of swapping it. He has a lot of details.

 

Thanks, im using one of the MTN boards, silicone 18awg wire to leds and 4 30Qs spring bypass and brass screws.

 

Just over 13 amps to the emmiters.Gets hot PDQ.

 

Its only a super cheap SRK clone by Securitying

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/\… No, they are not marked with Batch or serial numbers.

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fluke
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Thank you.

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How many people are interested in trying a new Q8 with XPL HI leds?

And how many people are interested in a light smaller than Q8, I mean with 3 * 18650 battery tube, but with the same driver and USB C charging port?

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I’d be more interested in a Triple XP-L HI V3 1A with the 3 Bigger Reflectors and 4 cells. Thumbs Up

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Larger rather than smaller. USB charging doesn’t add value for me.

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I agree with Sillen….
……. USB Charging on a light such as this adds nothing of value. Smile

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JasonWW
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Sofirn wrote:
How many people are interested in trying a new Q8 with XPL HI leds?

And how many people are interested in a light smaller than Q8, I mean with 3 * 18650 battery tube, but with the same driver and USB C charging port?


I don’t have any interest in xpl hi or 3 × 18650. Built in charging might be good for people who are new to flashlights.

All I really want is a stock Q8, but in CW. Something which has yet to be offered by Thorfire.

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Sofirn wrote:
How many people are interested in trying a new Q8 with XPL HI leds? And how many people are interested in a light smaller than Q8, I mean with 3 * 18650 battery tube, but with the same driver and USB C charging port?

 

Can you make OP reflectors for Q8 and C8F?

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led4power wrote:

Sofirn wrote:
How many people are interested in trying a new Q8 with XPL HI leds? And how many people are interested in a light smaller than Q8, I mean with 3 * 18650 battery tube, but with the same driver and USB C charging port?

 


Can you make OP reflectors for Q8 and C8F?


What would be the advantage to that? It doesn’t seem to be necessary. I’m confused.

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JasonWW wrote:
led4power wrote:

Sofirn wrote:
How many people are interested in trying a new Q8 with XPL HI leds? And how many people are interested in a light smaller than Q8, I mean with 3 * 18650 battery tube, but with the same driver and USB C charging port?

 


Can you make OP reflectors for Q8 and C8F?


What would be the advantage to that? It doesn’t seem to be necessary. I’m confused.

It would make the Q8 suitable for the 3V Luxeon MZ leds (on the 4040 Q8 board): great CRI plus great power with an easy mod, as long as the reflectors are heavy OP to prevent the donut hole!
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Not just MZ, but there would be less beam color separation with most other LEDs too - OP reflectors always give smoother, more uniform beam which is important for high CRI builds.

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I am very interested in a 3×18650 light and mentioned it in an interest thread a long time ago. The smaller diameter and lighter weight will make it easier and more likely to be picked up and put in my pocket. The 3 cells will allow for very good runtimes and being larger than a single cell light, it should handle heat a bit better. People with smaller hands might prefer it as well.

There have been a few 3×18650 lights released and the Firefly seems to be a success, but it costs quite a bit more than the Q8 does. I don’t care about usb charging at all and would prefer to not have it because of waterproofness if the port is covered by a small rubber flap or plug. If its hidden by the threads, I might like it more. It would have to be a solid design and one that would not add too much weight or bulk or cost for it to interest me.

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Yeah, sounds good to me. USB charging would be fine if not slow. 3 18650 would fit the hand better than 4.

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One thing to consider re: LVP with an e-switch:

It’s possible to get a dpst swtich, so you have one pole that “bootstraps” the MCU by turning on a transistor, and then you have the other that is used purely for click detection. It may even be possible to do this on a spst switch with some electronics trickery. When the MCU detects i’s below X volts, it sets the pin holding the transistor to “off” and the whole thing goes totally dark. No power until the button is clicked again.

Hardware wise, it would be best to use a mosfet to minimize quiescent current, and make sure to use very high value resistors for the “on” signal to the mosfet. Given the relatively high capacitance of the mosfet gate, you might even be able to get away with putting a capacitor on the line to hold it high, and just give it a periodic pulse to maintain voltage when in sleep, if you desired to keep the MCU running.

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