Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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ToyKeeper
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lexvegas wrote:
One thing to consider re: LVP with an e-switch:

Have you measured the power used by the Q8 driver during standby, or after LVP activates?

In stock form, with the button LED off, standby drain is about 0.02 or 0.03 mA. Or after reflashing it with different fuse values, it’s even lower. If I recall correctly, it was something like 0.00002 mA. And with four cells, divide all these values by four. This makes the standby power virtually indistinguishable from zero, because it’s lower than the cell’s self-discharge rate. With the right fuse values and with the button LED off, I’ve found that I can actually take the battery out for a few minutes without making the MCU shut down. And it can still wake up on button press.

Atmel calls this “picopower”. It makes standby mode use such a small amount of power that it’s not necessary to design in clever power-disconnect circuits.

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Yeah, I’m not suggesting it’s necessary, just providing input. I think it might be more relevant given a driver that couln’t use the super-low modes on the MCU or for a non LiIon battery. (AA Emergency light, for example).

That’s a super neat anecdote on pulling the cells!

BTW, I’ve been studying the FSM code for a potential MCU port, well done on the organization! I’m still picking up C syntax, but overall it’s very readable for me.

I wonder if there is a market for protected cells that only have LVP rather than LVP and over-current.

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pennzy wrote:
Yeah, sounds good to me. USB charging would be fine if not slow.

Oh yeah, it slipped my mind that USB is only 10 watt (2A@5v) at most. This would make it very slow if you were charging 3 or 4 batteries.

USB-C might be the better choice. A few flashlights already use this. It’s capable of 60W (3A@20v). So maybe the internal charge rates could be 1A to 1.5A per cell. That would greatly reduce charge time.

One problem I see with built in charging in general is that the Q8 can run on 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells. If the charging circuit delivers 4A@5v (1A for each of the 4 batteries) and you happen to be running only 1 battery in it, all 4A will go to the single cell and lead to disaster.

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lexvegas wrote:
BTW, I’ve been studying the FSM code for a potential MCU port…

Which MCU?

I’ve been considering porting it to tiny841 and tiny16something, to get more pins and potentially also more ROM. But I probably won’t for a while.

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ToyKeeper wrote:

Which MCU?

I’ve been considering porting it to tiny841 and tiny16something, to get more pins and potentially also more ROM. But I probably won’t for a while.

The jankiest Ukrainian? MCU in existence that they used in the MF02s. If I can find the time, it will be less of a “port” and more of a controlled demolition onto a new chip. Basically it would involve taking any of the references to atmel libraries plus any of the assumptions about timers and subbing in a compatibility library or something. I’ve posted a few findings in maukka’s MF02s review thread. Ultimately I don’t have a lot of hope, but it would be nice to do, as the driver is a quad channel boost driver running the XHP70.2 at 12v.

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JasonWW wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Yeah, sounds good to me. USB charging would be fine if not slow.

Oh yeah, it slipped my mind that USB is only 10 watt (2A@5v) at most. This would make it very slow if you were charging 3 or 4 batteries.

USB-C might be the better choice. A few flashlights already use this. It’s capable of 60W (3A@20v). So maybe the internal charge rates could be 1A to 1.5A per cell. That would greatly reduce charge time.

One problem I see with built in charging in general is that the Q8 can run on 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells. If the charging circuit delivers 4A@5v (1A for each of the 4 batteries) and you happen to be running only 1 battery in it, all 4A will go to the single cell and lead to disaster.


Actually USB Power Delivery (which uses Type C connector) allows for 100W, 20V 5A.
There are laptops (and adapters) on the market already which do (from memory) 95W.

Type C without PD is 5V 3A.

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Agro wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Yeah, sounds good to me. USB charging would be fine if not slow.

Oh yeah, it slipped my mind that USB is only 10 watt (2A@5v) at most. This would make it very slow if you were charging 3 or 4 batteries.

USB-C might be the better choice. A few flashlights already use this. It’s capable of 60W (3A@20v). So maybe the internal charge rates could be 1A to 1.5A per cell. That would greatly reduce charge time.

One problem I see with built in charging in general is that the Q8 can run on 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells. If the charging circuit delivers 4A@5v (1A for each of the 4 batteries) and you happen to be running only 1 battery in it, all 4A will go to the single cell and lead to disaster.


Actually USB Power Delivery (which uses Type C connector) allows for 100W, 20V 5A.
There are laptops (and adapters) on the market already which do (from memory) 95W.

Type C without PD is 5V 3A.


Yeah, but I’m talking about the more common USB-C. 20-30 watts seems the most a charger would need.

I still don’t see it working well on a multi cell flashlight unless you were to limit it to 5 watts total. That’s 0.25A to each of 4 cells and a very slow charge. I think that’s the real issue.

Has any parallel battery light had a charger circuit built in? If so, I wonder how they dealt with this issue.

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I think USB charging on a multi cell light is just a gimmick that is best avoided.

It adds unnecessary cost, is just something else to go wrong, & allows for water intrusion unless put in the threads…. protected by an o-ring.

ymmv….. Wink

Oh yeah, it would be slow…. Worthlessly slow. again ymmv

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I remember Haikelite did a charger cap that went on a battery tube of 4 cells. It acted as a charger, power bank and mini flashlight. I never got any details on how it worked, though.

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FWIW, there’s a cool white version coming:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62283

If I recall correctly, this might be of particular interest to JasonWW. Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, there’s a cool white version coming:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62283

If I recall correctly, this might be of particular interest to JasonWW. Smile

Yep… you “recall correctly” TK, JasonWW will be beside himself. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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cool eh?? the world needs more warmer tints, how about making it a 4000k or even 3000k edition ??

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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Yeah. How about they make an LH351D 90CRI version instead?

Especially since we know they are going to be using them in the Lantern project.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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teacher wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, there’s a cool white version coming:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62283

If I recall correctly, this might be of particular interest to JasonWW. Smile

Yep… you “recall correctly” TK, JasonWW will be beside himself. Big Smile

Not really. It’s the stupid HI version instead of the HD. Angry

Oh well, I’ll wait and see. Maybe they will do a HD vesion as well. I need to read that new thread.

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JasonWW wrote:
Not really. It’s the stupid HI version instead of the HD. Angry

Oh well, I’ll wait and see. Maybe they will do a HD vesion as well. I need to read that new thread.

FWIW, the HI version should give a more consistent tint without the usual Cree rainbow. And if you want it less throwy, DC-Fix is cheap. Together, they should make for a very nice-looking beam.

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Offtopic, you have some nice nails Love

Back on topic, what light is this? For some reason, I thought you managed to put a triple reflector inside of a BLF Q8.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Not really. It’s the stupid HI version instead of the HD. Angry

Oh well, I’ll wait and see. Maybe they will do a HD vesion as well. I need to read that new thread.

FWIW, the HI version should give a more consistent tint without the usual Cree rainbow. And if you want it less throwy, DC-Fix is cheap. Together, they should make for a very nice-looking beam.


I’m more interested in output levels. I’ll probably have the weakest output Q8 of anybody. 4000 lumen maybe. I want 6000, but no way with the HI version.

No biggie, I’ll wait and see what happens.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
what light is this? For some reason, I thought you managed to put a triple reflector inside of a BLF Q8 for some reasom

Nope. You know the big golden light in BLF’s front-page logo? It’s that light. An original Skyray King, modded with a BLF driver and some other things. Currently it has a prototype Q8 driver in it, and it’s what I used for part of FSM’s development.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32035

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Oooh I had completely forgotten about the original inspiration of the BLF Q8.

Very nice light BTW. Also, very smart idea to combine multi-tint/CCT LEDs. Maybe I should do that for my bathroom with some high CRI LEDs lol. The fluorescent lamp currently in makes everything look green.
Because of this, I feel like I look much worse during the evening than during the morning when there’s abundant sunlight.

Have you ever experimented with multi-tint high CRI LED strips setup BTW? I don’t know if it’s a false memory or not, but I have seen you write about it on BLF. Maybe I’m just hallucinating or something.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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BlueSwordM wrote:
Have you ever experimented with multi-tint high CRI LED strips setup BTW? I don’t know if it’s a false memory or not, but I have seen you write about it on BLF. Maybe I’m just hallucinating or something.

I’ve been meaning to, but the parts are pricey and I’ve been busy.

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!{width:70%} !

The hole on the center of Ledboard shel is bad to see
when manufactured make a flat surface area?

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Alen wrote:

The hole on the center of Ledboard shel is bad to see
when manufactured make a flat surface area?

That does look like a big hole. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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eas
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With a big copper DTP MCPCB I doubt such a hole would make much difference. It’s what, 10-15% of the area? and its the furthest from the outer edge and the emitters.

.

Alen
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but if they can fix it or smaller will be better

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eas wrote:
With a big copper DTP MCPCB I doubt such a hole would make much difference. It’s what, 10-15% of the area? and its the furthest from the outer edge and the emitters.
Probably a good point eas. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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I’m sure this was discussed way back in the design phase, before I followed the progress, and the best choice was made.

Maybe someone remembers the reason why they couldn’t shrink the hole another few millimeters.

Alen
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The hole it’s too large,it can be smaller

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That hole doesn’t really have any significant effect on the light’s performance or heat-sinking capacity. There is a thick copper MCPCB over it with four emitters, and the purpose of the shelf is to wick heat from the copper to the outside of the light.

This was considered extensively during the design of the light, the team went with what they determined would work, and it does.

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Alen wrote:
The hole is too large, it can be smaller.

This was discussed 2 years ago. It’s too late now. 2 years too late. Thorfire is not interested.

Sofirn is making a Q8 with small changes, but I don’t think they will alter the led shelf. It’s too late for that.

Sofirn is planning to make a more radical version, v1.5, using a battery carrier. Maybe you can suggest changes to that model. It’s early enough that they can actually do it.

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Easiest thing to change in a CNC Lathe, set smaller diameter drill length the same, depth won’t change, reset the speed and feed in the program, takes minutes, smaller drill, means higher rpm and a faster feed rate, shorter cycle time, a smaller diameter drill should be an easy quick change. It’s not like they are circle interpolating the hole.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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