Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

17330 posts / 0 new
Last post
F.i.l.a.s
F.i.l.a.s's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 11/22/2015 - 20:10
Posts: 90
Location: Prague

Hello,

I reflowed new leds on MCPCB, connected to driver (no reflector), turned on Moon as usual and one led didn´t work, so reflowed again, assembled, but leds didnt turn on at all (no reflector). I tried to double click and got direct turbo, strobe etc, disconnected tube and from this moment everytime I connect the tube with the head I get direct turbo. The switch does not react to any click.

Could someone advice what went wrong? I cleaned everything, I checked all the wires, resolder the led wires on the driver and MCPCB, checked the wires of e-switch. When I soldered wires to the driver I accidentaly put an solder on other “connection places” for led + (there are four spots), but there is no solder bridge in to the wire, so I guess there should be a problem and I cleaned most of the solder with the wick.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 8992
Location: Houston Texas

F.i.l.a.s wrote:
Hello,

I reflowed new leds on MCPCB, connected to driver (no reflector), turned on Moon as usual and one led didn´t work, so reflowed again, assembled, but leds didnt turn on at all (no reflector). I tried to double click and got direct turbo, strobe etc, disconnected tube and from this moment everytime I connect the tube with the head I get direct turbo. The switch does not react to any click.

Could someone advice what went wrong? I cleaned everything, I checked all the wires, resolder the led wires on the driver and MCPCB, checked the wires of e-switch. When I soldered wires to the driver I accidentaly put an solder on other “connection places” for led + (there are four spots), but there is no solder bridge in to the wire, so I guess there should be a problem and I cleaned most of the solder with the wick.


I will try, but no guarantees.

What type of leds did you add? It’s not too uncommon for the moon level to be too low to light up an led. Moon level has 7 adjustments. If you mean the bottom of the ramp (moon level 3), then it might not be any big deal. As long as all 4 work as soon as you give it a bit of ramp up.

After reflowing the leds a 2nd time, they didn’t work at all, or just at the very lowest level?

When a light goes to max when you connect the battery, it’s usually because of a short circuit. The positive of the battery goes straight to the mcpcb, then the mcpcb negative wire goes to the driver which controls the output. Any type of short on this negative wire will cause the leds to go full power. You might check if the reflector is shorting it.

The 4 positive led pads are all connected, you can use any of the 4. Same for the 4 negative pads.

Make sure no driver components are being shorted against the body.

Other than that, IDK.

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results

F.i.l.a.s
F.i.l.a.s's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 11/22/2015 - 20:10
Posts: 90
Location: Prague

JasonWW, thanks for your support and help ;).

I reflowed Samsung LH351D 4000K on a new MCPCB I bought on Ali (Sofirn original spare parts for Q8).

All four leds work on Turbo. I will check everything you advice in the evening.

First time (before 2th reflow) the 3 leds lighted up on Moon as expected. After 2th reflow, none of them, just a straight turbo after double click, there was no response on single click at all (only led switch turned on/off).

The e-switch is lit and react to on/off flashlight as expected.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 8 min 48 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3127
Location: The Motor City

F.i.l.a.s wrote:
JasonWW, thanks for your support and help ;).

I reflowed Samsung LH351D 4000K on a new MCPCB I bought on Ali (Sofirn original spare parts for Q8).

All four leds work on Turbo. I will check everything you advice in the evening.

First time (before 2th reflow) the 3 leds lighted up on Moon as expected. After 2th reflow, none of them, just a straight turbo after double click, there was no response on single click at all (only led switch turned on/off).

The e-switch is lit and react to on/off flashlight as expected.


Sounds like the 7135 is fried on the driver… have no idea how it could have happened unless there was a short initially….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 1174
Location: Sweden

Stupid question probably, what would happen if someone put in 4 xhp35 emitters for more throw would that work in this kind of light vs the xpl emitters?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 2265
Location: Canada

In this case, it would just be better to swap the XPLs for XPL HIs for more throw.

You will get more lumens and more throw with XHP35HIs, but you will need a different battery configuration and a buck driver, which will cost quite a bit.

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 1174
Location: Sweden

BlueSwordM wrote:
In this case, it would just be better to swap the XPLs for XPL HIs for more throw.

You will get more lumens and more throw with XHP35HIs, but you will need a different battery configuration and a buck driver, which will cost quite a bit.

yea ok, makes sense. i feel the xpl are more then enough anyways.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

RedForest UK
RedForest UK's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 06/06/2011 - 11:27
Posts: 1052

I’ve not posted here in a while, but I think this is the right thread. I’ve been playing around programming my Q8 (Narsil v1.0 I think) and now have a couple of weird bugs… It’d be great if someone could help me out with a fix.

If I am in ramping mode, and I press and hold then I get a flash of turbo (about 0.5 seconds), before it goes to moonlight. It’s as if the light forgets it’s in ramping for half a second and goes to what it would in the mode groups setting before it remembers what it should do. I should also say this only happens if the light hasn’t been on in the last 10-20 seconds or so, if it was recently switched off then a long press will go straight to moonlight.

There is also a probably related issue when using mode groups. This happens in similar circumstances as described above (switching on after 10-20 seconds of not being used). Here, the light comes on in the correct mode, but the indicator (under switch) LED blinks three times and the light turns itself off again. If I click a second time during the three flashes then it will usually stay on instead. This one will also sometimes happen twice, i.e. another time after turning the light back on again. I haven’t seen it three times before though.

I had thought I’d caused this by changing a setting, but I have tried switching most back to factory resets and the problems are still there.

Does anyone have any idea what is going on?

RedForest UK
RedForest UK's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 06/06/2011 - 11:27
Posts: 1052

Right, I’ve actually just fixed it.

I feel a bit silly now, I’d been trying what felt like everything for the last hour or so before posting, but I hadn’t reset the step-down setting to timer instead of temperature. Doing this fixed both issues. I’m not sure why exactly, I’m guessing for the mode groups at least there was some fault with the sensor that caused it to shut the light down. I have no idea why this would also cause turbo from press and hold in the ramping setting.

I’ll leave it on timer now!

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 37 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 13776
Location: Amsterdam

Hi, good to see you’re still around.
I’m not sure how to exactly explain what happened to your Q8, but if you set the stepdown to temperature instead of time, the default stepdown temperature can be anywhere, including room temperature. That is because the temperature is recorded in the MCU and that is extremely inaccurate. So you will have to tell the MCU the correct stepdown temperature by going through the stepdown temperature setting procedure (see manual).

But going back to timed stepdown is a good choice too, the 3 minute default is about spot-on IMO when batteries are full.

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

Hello,
Who can conduct a temperature study?
To what temperature does Q8 head warm up at room temperature (22-26C) without forced cooling after 20 minutes of operation ?:
1) 1500LM (Group4)
2) 2500LM (Group6)
3) 750LM (Group8)
Is there a 20-minute decrease in brightness for thermal control in these modes?
Thank you!

Sorry for my poor english.

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 2265
Location: Canada

1) No thermal stepfown from what I tested.

2) Still nothing.

3) Still nothing.

The only decrease in lux comes the battery voltage going down as time passes

RedForest UK
RedForest UK's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 06/06/2011 - 11:27
Posts: 1052
djozz wrote:
Hi, good to see you’re still around.

Thanks, you too. I somehow finally managed to get away from buying new lights and more into using the ones I already have! I still get drawn in by the odd-BLF special (I really like the look of the Sofirn AAA light with the Yuji LED and I’m sure will pick a few up after the first feedback on them), but the BLF A6 and Emisar range pretty much killed off my feel for needing anything more.

djozz wrote:
I’m not sure how to exactly explain what happened to your Q8, but if you set the stepdown to temperature instead of time, the default stepdown temperature can be anywhere, including room temperature. That is because the temperature is recorded in the MCU and that is extremely inaccurate. So you will have to tell the MCU the correct stepdown temperature by going through the stepdown temperature setting procedure (see manual).

But going back to timed stepdown is a good choice too, the 3 minute default is about spot-on IMO when batteries are full.

I did set the temperature using the procedure on the instructions, and I waited until the body was really too hot to touch, so I thought that wouldn’t be the problem. I would have to guess that my thermal sensor was particularly inaccurate, or faulty, leading to the odd behaviour. I think timed stepdown will be fine. It’s not like I regularly need 4-5k lumens for more than 3 minutes at a time anyway!

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 8242
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
RedForest UK wrote:
I’d been trying what felt like everything for the last hour or so before posting, but I hadn’t reset the step-down setting to timer instead of temperature. Doing this fixed both issues. I’m not sure why exactly, I’m guessing for the mode groups at least there was some fault with the sensor that caused it to shut the light down. I have no idea why this would also cause turbo from press and hold in the ramping setting.

I’m not sure if it’s the same issue, but I fixed something like that in RampingIOS between V1 and V2. If the user ran the light on a high mode for a while, then shut it off, it didn’t reset any of the thermal info it had collected. So when the user next turned it on, even at a low level, it would think it was hot and then “step down” to whatever it was going to do in the previous session, and this usually meant it would go from a low mode to a high mode.

Since RampingIOS V1 was a fork of Narsil, Narsil could be doing something similar. It wouldn’t be the first bug the two firmwares have shared.

I completely rewrote all that for FSM / Anduril / RampingIOS V3, and those also allow the thermal sensor to be calibrated. So, that’s available if you’d like the issue fixed instead of just working around it.

F.i.l.a.s
F.i.l.a.s's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 11/22/2015 - 20:10
Posts: 90
Location: Prague

I resolved the issue. I guess I used too much solder paste or I moved wrongly with some led and there was a problem – straight anode-catode short. I reflowed leds again and all works fine now. Thanks for ideas anyway ;).

After these “troubles” I have really nice 4000K HI CRI beam of LH351D leds and I got a lot of new modding experiences :).

Alen
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 04/03/2012 - 08:26
Posts: 281

The BLF Q8 is not available on BG,when back?

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 1174
Location: Sweden
Alen wrote:
The BLF Q8 is not available on BG,when back?

Processing time:Expected on October 31, 2018

just in time for halloween.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Barry0892
Barry0892's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 19 hours ago
Joined: 09/20/2014 - 03:45
Posts: 49
Alen wrote:
The BLF Q8 is not available on BG,when back?

You can try Sofirn Q8 on aliexpress or amazon Big Smile

Not Enough Great Lights

Not in ThorFire Team since June

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 1 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 1174
Location: Sweden

the sofirn is coolwhite emitters tho, perhaps he want the original ?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

nick779
nick779's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 03/09/2018 - 15:46
Posts: 176
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Does anyone have good sources for a diffuser for the Q8? A warm colored one would be perfect.

lfowner
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 2 hours ago
Joined: 01/18/2013 - 17:32
Posts: 84
Location: Germany

Fenix AOD-L.

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

I have a problem. After removing the batteries (for charging), the flashlight forgets the custom setting of the temperature of the temperature control and uses the factory setting of the temperature of the temperature control.
What to do? Or is this the norm?

Sorry for my poor english.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 8992
Location: Houston Texas

Di_Joker wrote:
I have a problem. After removing the batteries (for charging), the flashlight forgets the custom setting of the temperature of the temperature control and uses the factory setting of the temperature of the temperature control.
What to do? Or is this the norm?

There is a bug in the software that shows up on very few lights where it doesn’t always save changes made in the menu after battery power is reset.

Iirc it will remember eventually, it may take a few tries plus it helps to cycle the light on/off and basically use it normally before disconnecting battery power.

I think it’s referred to as the Narsil memory bug.

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 8242
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Yes, it should remember eventually…

To completely fix it though, it would be necessary to flash new firmware onto the driver. This requires some extra tools, but the tools are cheap and the firmware is free and the Q8 is exceptionally easy to flash.

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

A few hours of tests, the results are strange. Thermal control memorized temperature setting. Stepdown worked in any mode, for a given temperature. But as soon as I pulled out the batteries, a change occurred. In turbo mode, custom thermal control remained, in any other mode, thermal control is 7-8C lower. For example, a turbo 57C, in another mode 49C. And so every time you remove the batteries.
Is there a topic with instructions on updating the BLF Q8 firmware and links to buying equipment?

Sorry for my poor english.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 12 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 8992
Location: Houston Texas

Di_Joker wrote:

Is there a topic with instructions on updating the BLF Q8 firmware and links to buying equipment?

This stuff is too complicated for myself, but I kinda want to learn so I’ve been keeping track of things.

Try this link for parts.

Here are some videos.
https://youtu.be/Ed0AdA7Kzno

https://youtu.be/VyJpPcmUtSM

Here is a thread on it.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

Thanks for the help! Smile

Sorry for my poor english.

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

It seems to me that the error is common, but it is difficult to notice because of several reasons:
- very few people change the settings;
- the factory setting of thermal monitoring (55C) is quite reasonable, but the calibration of the sensor is different for everyone (I have about ~ 48C);
- not everyone has the necessary equipment to control the parameters of the flashlight;
- if the user changes the temperature control setting, then most likely it is not much different from the factory setting, within ~ 10C. But since there is a delay in the response of the thermal control (about 40 seconds), so it is sometimes difficult to understand whether the user’s settings have been saved or a memory error has occurred.
Therefore, I am going to conduct an additional series of tests. I set the temperature control to be very different from charging (55C), for example, 30C or 35C. Low temperature control temperature will allow both to speed up testing and easier to control memory errors. And I will try to make the lamp remember this setting of thermal control.
If anyone is interested, join the tests Wink . Having a few tests can already talk about statistics.

Sorry for my poor english.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 8242
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Di_Joker, there may not be much need to run tests because the issue is already known and was fixed in a related firmware in 2017.

So the issue is pretty well-understood, and updating the firmware should fix it. The original Narsil firmware is mostly abandoned though, since Tom has been too busy with other parts of life to maintain it. So fixed lights are running Anduril instead. It’s not perfect either, but it’s actively maintained and doesn’t have any known eeprom bugs. It also has quite a few more features, and is easier to modify if you want to customize anything.

Di_Joker
Di_Joker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2018 - 08:07
Posts: 54
Location: RU

ToyKeeper, I have seen mentions that in Narsil 1.2 (ROT66) there is also a memory error. Narsil is especially good because in addition to the ramp there is a mode with fixed brightness steps, for some it is very very important.

Sorry for my poor english.

Pages