Time to MoD the Jetbeam RRT01

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Mr. Nobody
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Time to MoD the Jetbeam RRT01

I want to swap out the emitter, its TOO BLUE for my taste.
I am thinking, hmm about going Warm, very warm ICAN warm…7A-8C range.
Anyone for some choices for an emitter for this ?
Not touching the ring or driver as they work fine.

Firelight2
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Important tip for modding the RRT-01:

When you unscrew the bezel to get to the emitter, only grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. NEVER grip below the ring ring unless you have already desoldered and removed the driver.

If you hold below the grip ring and unscrew the bezel, it is possible that the two sections of the head above and below the ring will unscrew instead of the bezel. If this happens while the driver is still installed the torquing action will destroy the driver wires.

Even worse, the driver itself is a 2-piece sandwich. The wires pass throw tiny holes in the top layer of the sandwich and are bonded to the inside of the bottom layer. It’s pretty much impossible to solder fresh wires on if you break the old ones since you won’t be able to get a soldering iron to the bondpads, and the wires will likely break inside the driver area. The driver is a custom magnetic ring driver… there aren’t any generic replacements available.

Basically, if you do it wrong, you pretty much destroy the entire light. Don’t ask me how I know….

Noctiluco
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Firelight2 wrote:
Important tip for modding the RRT-01:

When you unscrew the bezel to get to the emitter, only grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. NEVER grip below the ring ring unless you have already desoldered and removed the driver.

If you hold below the grip ring and unscrew the bezel, it is possible that the two sections of the head above and below the ring will unscrew instead of the bezel. If this happens while the driver is still installed the torquing action will destroy the driver wires.

Even worse, the driver itself is a 2-piece sandwich. The wires pass throw tiny holes in the top layer of the sandwich and are bonded to the inside of the bottom layer. It’s pretty much impossible to solder fresh wires on if you break the old ones since you won’t be able to get a soldering iron to the bondpads, and the wires will likely break inside the driver area. The driver is a custom magnetic ring driver… there aren’t any generic replacements available.

Basically, if you do it wrong, you pretty much destroy the entire light. Don’t ask me how I know….

+1 The same happens in my Niteye Eye10 Ti, you know Niteye and Jetbeam are the same factory…

Mr. Nobody
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So let’s get back on topic here… As you can see I have removed my bezel and added a glow spacer between the emitter and reflector. I also added some sexy color to the Ti bezel. No issues or damage.

Light uses a XM-L2. Maybe I’ll stick with the xml2 and go with a t4 7a tint from leddna…again driver is not going to be swapped. I wonder if that 600lm # goes down with the warmer tinted emitter…

jon_slider
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Update 2020
Original RRT-01 also available on Amazon as of May 2020.. I recommend buying these.

==========

I was able to replace the broken wires on an original RRT-01 driver by taking the sandwich apart

I was also able to purchase a new 2019 RRT-01 driver from info@jetbeamlight.com
the new driver has strobe

Noctiluco wrote:
Niteye Eye10 Ti

yes, the new 2019 RRT-01 driver will work in the Niteye Eye10 TiC also

Mr. Nobody wrote:
I wonder if that 600lm # goes down

Yes,

I went to an N219b 4500k 9080 sw45k and now get 400 lumens. The LED came from azhu:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68168

You need to swap the mcpcb and either file down a 16mm noctigon to about 15mm , or source something smaller, such as this (and reflow a Nichia LED):
https://ogazent.com/store/leds/xp-g2-led-on-12mm-copper-star/

I also replaced the reflector and now have a much nicer, ring free spill and tighter hotspot
there are two reflector choices, thanks to research by moderator007

Reflector #1. I like the very tight hotspot and smooth ringless spill
http://kaidomain.com/S021514-19_4mm-D-x-13_4mm-H-OP-Aluminum-Reflector?s...

here is a centering ring for Reflector #1 it is the same one that works w reflector #2 that I prefer
.
Reflector #2
http://kaidomain.com/S023424-19_3mm-D-x-13_4mm-H-Light-OP-Aluminum-Refle... (I like this one slightly better, the hotspot is a bit larger but without the “donut hole” in the middle of the hotspot)

here is a centering ring for reflector #2

try both Smile

.

You can also buy NOS Original RRT-01 here

and you can buy the short pocket clips from the same place as the drivers. The short pocket clips also fit the 2019 RRT-01

Control ring grease:
Im very happy w the control ring on my Original RRT-01 triple sw45 modded by pinkpanda, after adding Nyogel 767a to the control ring assembly.

I also used a small amount of munky spunk plus nano oil around the edges of the dial, and worked the action for a period of time until I had smoothed most of the spots that seemed gritty..

the ring feel is very smooth, only the slightest grit feel remaining from the ball moving along the track..
I also like the damping/resistance, no chance of moving the dial by accident, but can still be dialed with one finger…

.
.
information about building a Triple, custom spacer size, custom optics modifications, custom mcpcb diameter to fit the Original RRT-01 discussed in detail here scroll back a few posts for more info including customizing glow gaskets to fit

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id30209
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Have to subscribe. Jon is the MAN when it comes to RRT!

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A nichia at 4000K high cri looks good in it. A pebbled TIR makes it a great around the house light. They just don’t have enough run time for me to carry.

SST-20 4000K looks good too, with a pebbled TIR as well.

I bought 10mm boards and made a round copper ring to fill in the gap. Filing down 16mm ones is a pain in the butt. I quit after 10 minutes and grabbed a bag of 10mm.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

jon_slider
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I used the 12mm board, with a 219b 3000k (loving the tint), and a kaidomain reflector (love the ringless beam).. in that Eye10

credit to moderator007 for the 12mm board and kaidomain reflector links

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xevious
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Looks super, Jon. Also, kudos to you for putting together that Group Buy. Are they limited to just 10, or do you know what’s the entire remaining inventory from that Australian seller? I wonder how they ended up with them.

Btw, cool to hear that JetBeam is able to provide RRT-01 parts. What do they charge for the updated release driver?

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Wierd thread necro… and peddling stuff to boot.

id30209
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Can't find the other thread about RRT so point me if you can find it but for the time being there's some info to share with everybody who wants to pimp their original RRT's.

Niteye eye15 18650 body fits perfect with RRT01 (see comment HERE) and still can be found in one EU store.

EDIT: Gone Sad (niteye 15)

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jon_slider
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First impressions of Nyogel 767a

I like that it makes the control ring more stable, so it cannot be adjusted by casual contact.

I like that it requires deliberate and intentional force to rotate the dial, and that otherwise it holds the selected position reliably.

I like how smooth it feels, and the way it eliminates the gritty feeling on an RRT-01 (from the detente ball)

The V11r has no detente ball and does not feel gritty at all.

I have done just 2 lights, each of them opened twice, because the first time I did not get enough damping rate.

Im still experimenting with where to put the grease, and how much to use.. it is producing definite improvements in stability and smoothness, while retaining the ability to adjust the dial with one finger.

I like that the V11r is easier to regrease, since the electronics do not need to be removed first. otoh I find the tailswitch inconvenient and prefer to use the RRT-01.

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id30209
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Go with damping grease! Bit more thicker and smoother ops than Nygel.

Plus it won’t leak like Nygel when it gets warm.

On other V11R i’ve used Lithium clay grease for wheel bearings. Butter smooth operation.

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jon_slider
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thanks, feel free to share links to products you like…

fwiw, I did use damping grease for the control rings on both a V11r and an RRT-01, it does not leak out:

“NyoGel 767a Damping Grease stays where it is put, making it the preferred lubricant for sight scopes, telescopes, microscopes…”

another product Ive read good things about for control rings is
Krytox 205 which is supposed to be particularly good for Titanium. I have not tried it yet.

Another product I have heard good things about but not tried is Tef Gel, but some of my googles refer to it as antyseize and a substitute for locktite, which confused me..

I have also used darksucks munky spunk for titanium threads, but that is a different application than control rings.. and I have used Nano Oil, which again is for threads, not control rings, which as you said requires thicker stuff, that is referred to as “damping grease”.

Here is a thread that helped me learn about other products as well

Tekno_Cowboy;3088346 wrote:

Something to note: When using PTFE or silicone lubes, the quality can vary greatly dependent on the quality of the thickener used, and the quality of the base oil. One can work very well, while another of the same type can perform horribly.

O-Ring Compatibility
Use caution when using petroleum products, as they can damage some types of o-rings. Don’t use silicone lubes on silicone o-rings. The o-rings can swell and make your light almost impossible to get open.

Very Good Lubes

Nyogel: This lube is used by Surefire. This lube tends to change color slightly, but that should not affect it’s lubrication properties. 759G/760G is tuned more for threads, 779ZC is tuned more for o-rings. Nyogel 767a is a damping grease, good for control rings on RRT-01 and other magnetic rotaries.

Super-Lube: A cost-effective teflon-based lube that provides very smooth action. Both the grease and the oil perform well. It can be purchased from many hardware stores and online retailers.

NO-OX-ID: A wax-based lube with excellent anti-oxidation properties. It’s been around for about 50 years.

Krytox: One of the best lubes out there. This is a fluorinated grease that is very non-reactive and is safe for just about any application. This lube works exceptionally well on Ti lights. It is available in many different varieties, and has several re-branded names. It has been discovered that the sodium nitrate additive in the anti-oxidation varieties of Krytox can reduce the wear-resistance of Krytox on Ti and bare Al. The difference is small, but it is something to make a note of. It can be purchased from Amazon or directly from a DuPont distributor.

Krytox Variations and Re-Brands:
Finish Line Extreme Flouro
Loctite PFPE Grease
Chris Reeve Knifes Flourinated Grease
Sandwich Shoppe 50/50 mix

Nano-Oil: A highly-recommended lube by forum members. The lube uses oil as a carrier for nano-particles that are designed to act as a bearing surface. Also comes in a grease.

Good Lubes

Pure Silicone grease: This is a very common lube that can be found just about anywhere. It is generally safe for use, with the only exception being use on silicone o-rings.

Tri-Flow Clear Synthetic Grease: Similar to Super Lube. Will be moved to the Very Good section if there are more positive responses.

Deoxit ProGold: Anti-Oxidation electrical contact conditioner. While not a lube, it can be a good addition to electrical contact points on lights.

Poor Lubes

Motor Oil: It may work, but it can damage o-rings. A full synthetic like AMSOil might be safe, but why take the chance when there are better lubes out there.

Petroleum Jelly/Vaseline: Contains petroleum distillates, which can damage some types of o-rings.

Moly Grease: While very useful for other applications, Molybdenum is toxic, and should not be used for handheld applications, such as flashlights.

Lithium Grease: Contains petroleum distillates, which can damage some types of o-rings.

Bad Lubes
WD-40: It is a solvent, not a lube. It actually increases friction on the threads.

Other Lubes
Loctite ViperLube
FrogLube CLP
Militec-1
TiTi Twister

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id30209
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On the phone now...

Nygel and Krytox won’t leak. What i meant is: applying some heat, even body temp will cause first Nygel to loose viscosity, then Krytox. 

For this pirpose i’m using aircraft grade Aeroshell 7 (no link, stole a box at work )

Damping grease can also help in reducing grittines-ss in the ring and that’s the sole purpose of it.

I’ll try to link one BG item

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id30209
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Found it, it’s Ali actually LOL

US $2.51 30% Off | XY-2 damping grease high viscosity damping camera lens damping grease Mechanical damping grease
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/NPBBfrcc

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id30209
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And if you want LVP in RRT01 then ask Jetbeam (thank you Fanny) to send Eye15 driver.

It’s identical like Eye10 and RRT01 but runs emitter a bit harder and at 3.0V you get warning, flashes.

Bellow 3.0V it will shut down.

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jon_slider
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id30209 wrote:

Found it, it’s Ali actually LOL


US $2.51 30% Off | XY-2 damping grease high viscosity damping camera lens damping grease Mechanical damping grease
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/NPBBfrcc

thanks, that grease was also recommended to me by moderator007

and fwiw the Aeoroshell product is also on ebay..

lot of good choices it seems.. I got the Nyogel 767a from Oveready

id30209 wrote:

And if you want LVP in RRT01 then ask Jetbeam (thank you Fanny) to send Eye15 driver.


It’s identical like Eye10 and RRT01 but runs emitter a bit harder and at 3.0V you get warning, flashes.


Bellow 3.0V it will shut down.

Thank You!

I just tested the driver for a 2019 RRT-01, that I bought from Fanny. I inserted a depleted CR123 that read 2.7v and turned on the light to maximum. It only made 8 lumens, and started flashing.. when I removed the battery it was at 2.47v.

Same result with an Original Eye10 and with an Original RRT-01, they flash below 2.7v and continue to flash as the battery draws below 2.5v. When I stopped those tests the battery read 2.31v.

Curiously, the TCR-1 did NOT flash, it just kept drawing the battery down, I stopped the test when the light was at 2 lumens maximum…

conclusion, there is no LVP in Eye10 or 2019 RRT-01 drivers, nor Original RRT-01.. they do flash on voltage below 3v, but do not shut off.

This Eye10 has an Original Eye10 driver, battery is below 2.5v

This RRT-01 has an Original RRT-01 Driver, battery is below 2.5v

This RRT-01 has a 2019 RRT-01 Driver, battery is below 2.5v

from this I infer that though there IS flashing below 3v the light does NOT shut off above 2.5v.. so I do not consider this LVP, it is just LVW.. IF the operator is asleep, the battery CAN be overdischarged.

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id30209
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Nygel and Krytox are lubricants and we need something thicker for this purpose.

If mod007 aproves it then it’s gotta be good.

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jon_slider
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Nyogel comes in different thicknesses, the 767a is quite thick, and it IS damping grease.

Krytox also comes in different thicknesses, the Krytox 205 is the thickest one and recommended as damping grease for Titanium rotary rings.

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Gunga
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I think I tried that listed damping grease from another vendor a while ago and found it too thin. I also use Nyogel 767a from oveready. It’s a thick damping grease and works wonderfully in my control ring lights (v10/v11/rrt01 etc).

id30209
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I have Nygel767 and i find it not so thick and gets fluid like in temp around body temp and higher which can leave nasty stain in your pocket. 

But that’s my point of view. My flashlights are used hard at work so some rough usege will tell you really quick what’s the story with all this parts.

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moderator007
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I have played around and experimented with several different lubes and grease in rotary lights. The RRT-01, V11R really are not that finicky about the type of grease. As long as it does reduce friction and has more than a medium viscosity for damping. Even the cheap XY-2 damping grease will work good in these. The aluminum rotary’s will have several grease’s that will work fine.
.
On the titanium version rotary’s is where things get tricky. What works good on the aluminum version may not work good at all on the titanium version rotary’s.
I tried several lubes and read up on all the suggestions with past experience, then I started searching for speciality grease for titanium and stainless. Stainless has some of the same Galling properties of titanium. What I found was that almost ever lube, grease out there to prevent galling of titanium and stainless used PTFE (Teflon) as a ingredient. Teflon is white in color and can be purchased in powder form to add to about any oil or grease you wanna try. https://www.amazon.com/Runaway-Bike-PTFE-Powder-Teflon/dp/B00W61ET9E
You ever cook a egg in a non- stick frying pan, Yelp Teflon (Dupont PTFE) coated pan. That’s another subject but you know how slick they are.
It is also the main ingredient in “Slick 50”.
The Tef-Gel works really well for a smooth feel ring but it has a high viscosity, so too much and the ring becomes slow to turn. To much damping.
The Tef-Gel is white in color, probably because what I think is a high concentrate of Teflon, hence the name Tef-Gel.
The Munky Spunk also is whitish cream in color, pretty sure it has Teflon in it, since it is special formulated from darksucks for titanium threads and prevents galling a Teflon trait.
What I found was Teflon was the key to a good smooth feel control ring in titanium rotary lights like the TCR-1 and V10R but more so with a used TCR-1 were some wear has already taken place.
The very best recipe I have managed to come up with to date is about 60% munky spunk and 40% Teflon powder mixed in. Very smooth feel (no grittiness) with medium viscosity for a slight damping of rotation. To me its about perfect. Going a little higher in percentage of Teflon starts to raise the viscosity and the damping but very smooth feel, just harder to turn.
.
When I took apart my last older model RRT-01 I made sure to pull off some of the Jetbeam factory lube and have a look. They used a clear white grease. That doesn’t mean its Teflon based but it makes the possibility higher. I did ask Jetbeam one time just what did they use on these rotary lights but they never got back to me with a answer.
.
As I have modded my rotary lights I try different things every time I got one apart. I purchased some of the “Finish Line Extreme Flouro” which is suppose to be a spin off of Krytox (Dupont) that I will try in the next one I take apart. I’ll try it by itself then try it with Teflon added to see if it improves. Every lube I have tried improves by adding more teflon, the Tuf-Gel doesn’t need anymore. It already has a high concentration I think, It would get to thick to use anyway if I did add more.
I’m still searching to see if anything is better in titanium rotary lights but right now the king is Munky Spunk with about 40% Teflon added. From everything I have tried off the shelf Teflon is the key for smoothness in titanium rotary lights. I would be very interested to hear how adding Teflon powder to some of your favorite lubes, grease works for you. The aluminum versions benefit also from adding Teflon but you can really feel the difference more so in the Ti versions.

jon_slider
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id30209 wrote:

I have Nygel767 and i find it not so thick and gets fluid like in temp around body temp and higher which can leave nasty stain in your pocket. 


Thanks for clarifying, I appreciate and respect your experience. Im not a hard user, seldom do my lights get hot. I have had a V11r in my pocket for the past week, it is lubricated with 767a and Ive had no leaks nor stains, and no indication that the lube is melting into my pocket.

Im glad moderator007 chimed in, you can see that there is the potential to add teflon to any lube, to make it better.

I chose 767a based on how popular it is with posters I have read, and I wanted to try it for myself. So far, Im very happy with it. Im sure there are many other options that can work.

btw, thanks for suggesting the Eye15 driver, I contacted Fanny and she sent me this photo

Im planning to order a couple of those drivers, to learn how they act at low voltage, so far I have only tested 4 other drivers, original 2019 RRT-01, Eye10, Original RRT-01, and TCR-1.

The first 2 have strobe, which I like, the last 2 do not have strobe, but the drivers are all the same size and I have swapped a 2019 RRT-01 driver into an Original RRT-01 without issue.

I will report back on my low voltage test of the Eye15 driver.

Thanks for sharing info Smile

.
.
I do not believe the Jetbeam and NiteEye drivers are compatible with Sunwayman, but I tested the low voltage behavior of the stock driver on a V11r, that I modded to use a 3500k E21a.

My V11r, blinks at 2.38v


it does not blink at 2.89v, gives 110 lumens

at 3.5v it gives 175 lumens…
at 4.08 v gives 225 lumens (thats the max, using the 3500k E21a)

these magnetic rotaries are not flat regulated, lumens fall as voltage drops… I find that convenient, it gives me visual indications of a draining battery, and I can test my light on a lightmeter to get an idea of battery charge, even before opening the light and testing with a DMM.

I do wish there was a true LVP shutoff at 3v in these lights, so will be looking forward to testing the Eye15 driver to confirm if it shuts off, as id30209 is informing us.

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jon_slider wrote:
I do wish there was a true LVP shutoff at 3v in these lights, so will be looking forward to testing the Eye15 driver to confirm if it shuts off, as id30209 is informing us.

I see a new groupbuy coming Smile

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Cannot post a video cause my flashlight lab is closed due to traveling.

Eye15 driver is a buck driver and works 3-8.4V, not bellow Wink

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id30209 wrote:

Eye15 driver is a buck driver and works 3-8.4V, not bellow Wink


Thank you!
the spec I found is
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1343102-niteye-eye15-cree-xm-l-u2-500-l...
Working voltage: 2.7-8.4V

Sounds perfect for my RRT-01 use style, as i like the strobe option, and never use cr123 (they stink, and i dont get free supply)

Geuzzz wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
I do wish there was a true LVP shutoff at 3v in these lights, so will be looking forward to testing the Eye15 driver to confirm if it shuts off, as id30209 is informing us.

I see a new groupbuy coming Smile

Or at least a new ad:
WTShare High CRI Nichia in Original RRT-01 host w LVP, a tight hotspot, and buttery smooth dial. Wink

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jon_slider that seems like strange behavior with the blinking at below 2.38v with the V11R. I tested mine several times before and after mods to the driver. These drivers are boost direct drive drivers. Mine worked down to .7v I believe was the lowest I saw before it shut down. The V11R with the extender is designed to use a AA alkaline battery.
Maybe some thing is wrong with the boost circuit part of the driver.

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Yes, my V11r is probably not normal.. or its really smart… or my blink results are caused by using depleted CR123 instead of a power supply…

My V11r blinks below 2.5v to warn LiIon users, but then does not blink at 1.5v when using AA.. (I dont own any 14500 so cant report), but I just installed an AA extender and an energizer alkaline..

with an alkaline that is at 1.48v it makes 65 lumens max, and does not blink. for me the AA option is pretty much a waste of time.. 1/4 the output of 16340 and makes the light bigger and heavier.. (Im not an AA user)

with the stock LED, on 16340, it only made 420 lumens and after the E21a swap lost about 40% and now makes about 250 lumens max

the lowest mode is between 0.01 to 0.03 depending on the battery..

I absolutely Love the E21a 3500k LED, and just ordered a few more to test.. I want to make E21a work in an RRT-01 with a reflector..

Im researching the Eye15 and have learned that it does blink when voltage gets low, but I dont yet know at what voltage..

I also found the cutoff voltage for the eye15 driver is 2.7v

and that the lowest low is 5 lumens (deal breaker for me, if true)

I have ordered 2x Eye15 drivers to test for myself..

Over-Discharge Protection: When the battery voltage becomes low, the EYE15 begins to flicker and then strobe on and off. … The one thing I want to really highlight for improvement here is the need for a lower low. … 5 lumen low

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

moderator007
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The blinky with low battery your seeing with the V11R could be the same thing I noticed with the New model RRT-01. I tried reducing the voltage down to .7v a step at a time with a power supply and saw no blinky. But when I reduced the current down a step at a time, at .44ma the blinks should up. I had almost forgot about the new RRT-01 driver behaving this way. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1457046#comment-1457046

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I had a original RRT-01 apart today and tested the “Finish Line Extreme Flouro” in it. I didn’t like it that much.
It did make the ring smooth but offered almost no resistance or damping to the rotation.
When I took it back apart the grease looked like it had dried up, kind of cakey looking. Pretty sure it has a high concentration of Teflon but it doesn’t offer the stickiness of a damping grease. It still offered smooth rotation but it turned freely with no resistance.
I mixed up a batch of 60% Munky Spunk and 40% Teflon and it worked perfectly to my liking.
Smooth with no grittiness and a slight resistance in rotation.

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