How to reflow solder an LED emitter on a PCB or MCPCB.

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fluke
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Thanks for that .

 

Only thing wrong with wanting it cheaper is the wait. 

moderator007
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xevious wrote:
When using a heat gun, I assume you’ve got an alligator clip holding the MCPCB and you’re blasting it from below. Do you start at a low temp for a min or so, then gradually increase heat until reflow occurs?

I use the helping hands to hold the mcpcb. https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html?
It takes the hot air a minute or so to heat up to temp. I use this ramping heat to bring the mcpcb to temp, rather than waiting for the hot air to reach set temp then heating.
I use leaded solder paste. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chip-quik-inc/SMD291AX50T3/SMD...
The solder paste already has flux in it, apply and heat slowly until it melts.
fluke
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Thanks, ordered the XPLs from KD, and paste, and one of those flexy 6 leg with illuminated magnifying glass and fan.

 

https://bga-reworking.co.uk/product/insat-sn63pb37-leaded-solder-paste-3...

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052553994.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2...

e1000
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Just got my second Uyue 946-1010 hot plate. This one is definitely 110v and it works great. Got up to 220C in a few minutes no problem. Fantastic!

jon_slider
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e1000 wrote:
Just got my second Uyue 946-1010 hot plate. This one is definitely 110v and it works great. Got up to 220C in a few minutes no problem. Fantastic!

That is Great to hear, congrats and thanks for following up.

I love my 10×10 too!

I’ve had great results so far, set to 200C

flightless22
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I ordered the UYue 10×10 and some solder paste

I made 2 successful led swaps in one go. It looks complicated but I can’t believe how easy peasy it was after following the advice here.

Astrolux A01 Nichia 219b SW30k (trailhunter) and Glaree E03 STT20 4000K FD4 (BlueSwordM)


My UYue looked dirty/used and had minor scatches on the surface and I was afraid it was DOA because it initially emitted fumes at 170c+ but it quit doing that and functions just fine after I let it cool and ran it again. The biggest struggle was trying to line up and resolder the tiny wires back on the mcpcb of the E03. Tired

Thanks guys. I can’t wait to do more. Grad

jon_slider
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flightless22 wrote:
I ordered the UYue 10×10 and some solder paste

I made 2 successful led swaps in one go. It looks complicated but I can’t believe how easy peasy it was after following the advice here.


congratulations!
outstanding photos too Smile
vestureofblood
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welight wrote:
I have a couple of opinions on this, I dont have any issue tapping leds to squeeze out the solder, but ensure you use a tool and one that is not hot as it can mess with silicon lenses, dont use fingers as it leaves body oil on the lens of the led.
If your using stencils I use 0.1mm thickness standard and always tend to have the stencil manufacturer start with a 10% min reduction on the pad cutout, on super fine pads I may go as much as 30% pad reduction. Off course as Clemence notes on the smaller lightweight Nichia 1.7 or 2.1mm leds the lack of weight in the led makes it difficult to avoid floating due to solder surface tension and you want less solder. The other point to note when designing boards is to always create relief pads to allow solder to escape from under the led if you have too much

just my HO
Cheers
Mark

Mark I ordered a stencil withe the reduced pad size for my 3x XPL 32mm board frames, I am eager to try this. I have been using a stencil for my XML boards in the same size, but sometimes I think the paste does not spread perfectly in the large center pad. It seems like maybe running a thin strip of stencil metal right through the center long ways might fix it, but I am wondering if that would reduce the solder too much.. What you would recommended for XML size tipples?

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