Clear anodized Convoy S2+ (switch poll closed) now just discussion

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J-Dub74
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ZozzV6 wrote:
J-Dub can you kindly ask Simon to sell stainless buttons separately? I got my Clear S2+ today. And it has the black button but started to fade and seeing out the metal color under black coating after half day of use. I better like it with the matching silver button.
Thank you!

I’ve made the request and I’ll keep you posted. Some of this first run of the black switches has the issue you described with the black coating being either too thin or not cured properly. Not all but at least some will have this issue unfortunately. The black metal switch should be much improved in the next run which will be used on the desert tan model. If you bought this one from Simon’s store you can send him a message there for your one light if you want a quicker fix but I’m doing what I can to resolve the bigger picture issue. Hopefully all will be well with the next run. Thanks for letting me know.
ZozzV6
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Thank you for your help. This piece is from banggood but I ordered one from Simon directly for a friend but that one doesn’t arrived yet. We will see how that one keep the black coat. But for me is the best option to buy stainless even if it costs 1-2$ and replace in my light and in the other one too.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
J-Dub can you kindly ask Simon to sell stainless buttons separately? I got my Clear S2+ today. And it has the black button but started to fade and seeing out the metal color under black coating after half day of use.
Wow, that’s fast… Sad
Do you eat a lot of garlic? Wink
Quote:
I better like it with the matching silver button.
Thank you!
Maybe you can use some solvent or lye or something to remove all of the black coating?

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

ZozzV6
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Jerommel wrote:
Wow, that’s fast… Sad
Do you eat a lot of garlic? Wink Maybe you can use some solvent or lye or something to remove all of the black coating?

Not really Big Smile
I will try to remove all the blackness.
ZozzV6
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Aaaand it’s ruined Facepalm
I managed to take out the black switch but I can’t take out the little plastic ring where the light came out. I putted it in some solvent and it melted the plastic ring but the black paint almost intact. Crying
So now the button felling out and that means I can not use the whole flashlight.
I really need now a stainless button to replace the mess what I just made. I don’t know now I contact with banggood because of fast erasing black paint or Simon at aliexpress to please send me a replacement part for some money.

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Sad

I would try Simon.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

J-Dub74
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Aaaand it’s ruined Facepalm
I managed to take out the black switch but I can’t take out the little plastic ring where the light came out. I putted it in some solvent and it melted the plastic ring but the black paint almost intact. Crying
So now the button felling out and that means I can not use the whole flashlight.
I really need now a stainless button to replace the mess what I just made. I don’t know now I contact with banggood because of fast erasing black paint or Simon at aliexpress to please send me a replacement part for some money.
!{width:60%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2518...!

No need for tears… Simon is having some extra switches made. Just send him a message through the Convoy Aliexpress store here. . He’ll take care of you. Tell him I sent you. Wink
ZozzV6
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I messaged him about my problem and yesterday I got the reply from him that he has a few and will send me. But I forgot to mention about it here. Simon is the best manufacturer!

Gunga
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Will the clear hosts be offered with the bare stainless switches or only black?

J-Dub74
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ZozzV6 wrote:
I messaged him about my problem and yesterday I got the reply from him that he has a few and will send me. But I forgot to mention about it here. Simon is the best manufacturer!

That’s what I like to hear. Smile
It wasn’t just the value of Convoy lights that led me to where I am. It was the very personal customer service from the owner of the company, taken to a level unmatched in my experience that impressed me so much.
Glad it worked out. Thumbs Up
Jarder28
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http://i.imgur.com/fO3t8P8.jpg
Is the gap between body and tail cap normal?

XXX-Man
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What gap?
Can you be more precise or mark it on picture?

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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J-Dub74
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Gunga wrote:
Will the clear hosts be offered with the bare stainless switches or only black?

The next round of the clear S2+ is supposed to have the stainless switches. Also, Simon just got a batch of the stainless switches so if anyone wants to try swapping one out they should be listed in the store soon.
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XXX-Man wrote:
What gap?
Can you be more precise or mark it on picture?

He’s referring to a small gap where the tail threads into the tube. Jarder28 contacted me about it.
Look here:

It’s not a big gap but it’s there. I actually checked mine and it too has that tiny gap. I’ve gone months of using without ever noticing that so it’s not heartbreaking IMHO but I will bring it up to Simon so that he can address it in the next run.

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I see it now.

I don’t have that on mine.
Did you try to screw switch retaining ring further? It may solve the problem.

I had one grey with gap but switch board was not right in place and retaining ring wasn’t tight and after fixing no more gap.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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Jarder28
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I tried swapping in from gray s2+ with normal or no gap and still the clear one has that gap. I also tried tightening the retaining ring still didn’t work. It’s not a big issue but its a factor for quality but I think It’s fix-able.

ToyKeeper
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For units with a gap, it could probably be fixed at home by sanding down the body tube a little.

eggmang
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I received my clear S2+ from Shenzhen Convoy. Suprised it came with a blue lit tailcap. I also ordered the new firmware but unfortunately it doesn’t work properly because of the lit tailcap.

When I put a tailcap from my old S2+ on the clear the new firmware has no problem. I contacted Simon to let him know but it is not really a big problem for me.

I prefer just to remove the tailcap light. Do I just unscrew the ring inside the tailcap and then unsolder the LED from the PCB in the tailcap?

eggmang
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Dug in the spare parts bag and found a normal pcb with switch and spring that i ordered from Simon long ago.

Fitted this and it’s all good Thumbs Up

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eggmang wrote:
I received my clear S2+ from Shenzhen Convoy. Suprised it came with a blue lit tailcap. I also ordered the new firmware but unfortunately it doesn’t work properly because of the lit tailcap.

Wow, I didn’t know they were gonna come with a lighted tail cap. That’s a nice idea, but it has to match the driver. A lot of times they are not compatible with each other.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

ToyKeeper
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I’ve already sent information to Simon about the lighted tailcap causing issues depending on the firmware, and information about how to fix it with a bleeder resistor. But for a metal switch, it’s generally best to not even attempt a lighted tailcap. Not much light can get through, so it’s kind of a waste.

JasonWW
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Oh, is it only on the black metal switch models?

I thought it was the rubber switch models.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

ZozzV6
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I have nice results with grinding down the bottom edge of metal button and using PD68 six LED lighted tailcap board.

Stock on right and 6 leds with grinded button on the left. I used 22K resistor to each LED pair IIRC and 1K bleeder on driver and biscotti working correct that way.

And I have some other color with 6 LEDs and grinded button:

Today I have another Clear S2+ which got biscotti and 1K bleeder. With stock lighted switch it was not good. And even with 10K resistors at switch pcb. I now going to try 22K for each LED. And If it works Anybody can tell Simon the info. I only had success with high forward voltage LEDs in switches like Green, blue, white, pink and purple. I can’t set correct resistors for yellow or red ones with biscotti.

Edit: Clear S2+ with biscotti, 1K bleeder on driver and 22K instead of 330 Ohm at each LED on the original lighted switch board and everything works fine. Firmware and switch light too.

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So it is not really a problem of the firmware but of the driver?
If the driver has no bleeder resistor the lightened tailcap may work or not (and the firmware/UI may work or not)?

ZozzV6
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TBone wrote:
So it is not really a problem of the firmware but of the driver?
If the driver has no bleeder resistor the lightened tailcap may work or not (and the firmware/UI may work or not)?

It is a combination of driver and firmware. The stock driver with old 3/5 mode firmware work without a bleeder resistor with lighted tailcap.
The stock driver with Biscotti and lighted tailcap will turn in to next mode memory.
Driver with Biscotti and lighted tailcap only work correct with bleeder resistor on driver.
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Biscotti relies on being able to measure time while the power is off, and the lighted tailcap means power is never “off” enough for that. So it breaks unless you add a bleeder resistor to bypass the driver while “off”.

The stock 3/5 mode firmware only measures time while on, so it doesn’t care about the lighted tailcap. However, this also limits what the UI can do, because it can’t tell the difference between a short press and a long press.

eggmang
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I took the lit PCB/switch from the tailcap and put it into one of my other S2+ which still has the old 3/5 firmware and a clear rubber boot – I love it! It is a really nice feature.

On the clear S2+ with the push button tailcap switch the glow was hardly noticeable.

I would really love to install a lit PCB/switch into my Convoy C8 – does anyone sell the PCB/switch separately? (I mean with the SMT resistor and LED and switch/spring already installed on the PCB)

argolite
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eggmang wrote:
does anyone sell the PCB/switch separately? (I mean with the SMT resistor and LED and switch/spring already installed on the PCB)

This may be similar or exactly what’s in the Convoys: https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5X6-Flashlight-Lighting-Swit...
on flash sale $1.99 for the next 5 days. Also here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Astrolux-SC-SS-BLF-X5-X6-Flashlight-Ligh...
My clear S2+ host hasn’t arrived yet, so I’m only guessing that’s the switch. I bet someone else can comment.

eggmang
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argolite wrote:
eggmang wrote:
does anyone sell the PCB/switch separately? (I mean with the SMT resistor and LED and switch/spring already installed on the PCB)

This may be similar or exactly what’s in the Convoys: https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5X6-Flashlight-Lighting-Swit...
on flash sale $1.99 for the next 5 days. Also here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Astrolux-SC-SS-BLF-X5-X6-Flashlight-Ligh...
My clear S2+ host hasn’t arrived yet, so I’m only guessing that’s the switch. I bet someone else can comment.

Yes it looks very much like that one, however the one I got from Convoy doesn’t have the interesting looking double spring setup, but it does have the same blue colour LED.

If I have some time I will take a photo of the PCB i got and post it up.

eggmang
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I have noticed on ebay there is a seller who has the Clear S2+ with a rubber boot tailcap:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Convoy-S2-Silver-XP-L-HI-7135×8-3-5modes-Rub...

Is this likely to be a clone/fake? I did not see any clear S2+ in Simon’s store and did not know that the rubber switch version was officially released by him?

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