Astrolux S41 measurements (Quad Nichia 219B, 18350/16340/18650)

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maukka
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Astrolux S41 measurements (Quad Nichia 219B, 18350/16340/18650)

EDIT 2016/3/6: verified the pwm frequency, which is 17.2 kHz on all modes except moonlight (8.6 kHz) and turbo (no pwm).

Astrolux S41 is a quad emitter hotrod light manufactured by Manker. It is equipped with either high CRI Nichia 219b or cool white Cree XP-G2 LEDs. My light is the Nichia variant purchased from banggood.com. The light is also available as a Manker E14.

Manufacturer specifications

  • Battery type: 1× 18350, 16340 or 18650 with an optional tube
  • LED: 4x Nichia 219B 5000 K (also available with 4x CREE XP-G2 6500 K)
  • Body material: Aluminum/Copper
  • Switch type: Reverse tailcap clicky
  • Waterproof: Yes, IPX8
  • Lens: TIR
  • Protection: Low voltage warning (2.9-3.1 V), reverse polarity
  • Modes: Selectable 4 or 7
  • Special modes: 10 Hz strobe, battery check, biking flasher
  • Mode memory: Selectable
  • Length: 80 mm
  • Width: 24 mm
  • Weight: 90 g

The S41 driver is the same as in the popular BLF A6/Astrolux S1.


Astrolux S41 with a 18650 and a 18350 battery.


The light accepts protected and unprotected cells. In addition to 18350s 18650s can be used with an option 18650 tube. There’s a double spring in the tailcap.

Measurements
Please note: lumen measurements are only rough estimates
My diy 30 cm integrating styrofoam sphere has been calibrated using a Fenix E05 on high with manufacturer’s claim of 85 lumens. Verified with an Olight S10 that has been measured with a Labsphere FS2 integrating sphere by valostore.fi. Results may be more inaccurate with especially throwy or floody lights.

For spectral information and CRI calculations I have an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer with HCFR for the plot and ArgyllCMS spotread.exe for the data. For runtime tests I use spotread.exe with a custom script and a i1Display Pro because it doesn’t require calibration every 30 minutes like the i1Pro.

Explanation of abbreviations
CCT = correlated color temperature, higher temperature means cooler (bluish)
CRI (Ra) = color rendering index consisting of 8 different colors (R1-R8), max value 100
CRI (R9) = color rendering index with deep red, usually difficult for led based light sources, max value 100
TLCI = television lighting consistency index, max value 100
CQS (Qa) = Proposed replacement for CRI, RMS average of 15 color samples
CRI2012 (Ra,2012) = Another proposed replacement for CRI, consists of 17 color samples
MCRI = Color rendering index based on the memory of colors or 9 familiar objects
x,y = coordinates on a CIE 1931 chart

After 35 seconds on turbo with a 18650 battery, my lights drops down to moonlight and doesn’t recover before switching it back off and on again. The backward mode cycling with a long press also stops working after overheating.

*Spectral distribution
*

Color rendering

Beam and tint


Tint in different brightness modes is consistent. Mode 1 = moonlight, Mode 7 = Turbo.

Runtime

High 2 and Turbo

Medium 2 and High 1

Edited by: maukka on 06/03/2016 - 09:18
Andybibbville
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Is this the nichia numbers? I would like to know the difference between xpg-2.

John 12:46 “I have come into the world as a light, so that no one who believes in me should stay in darkness.” Genesis 1:3 And God said, “Let there be light,” and there was light.
djozz
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Very nice info, thanks for the review! Smile

maukka
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Sharpie wrote:
PS: cooled ?

A fan blowing on the light.

Flashy Mike
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This is very interesting. A lot of work, I guess. Thank you for this useful information!
How did you measure PWM?

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great job maukka!

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

maukka
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Flashy Mike wrote:
How did you measure PWM?

I measure PWM with an oscilloscope and a photosensor. Since I didn’t have time to do it with the S41, I just inserted the Astrolux S1 numbers I did earlier in to the table. I’ll verify this soon.

Flashy Mike
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maukka wrote:
I measure PWM with an oscilloscope and a photosensor. Since I didn’t have time to do it with the S41, I just inserted the Astrolux S1 numbers I did earlier in to the table. I’ll verify this soon.
The numbers seem rather low though, frequency should be 18 – 19kHz with this driver. The med2 value looks like a copy/paste error, according to Toykeepers code all modes except lowest one should run with fast pwm with the frequency mentioned above .
staticx57
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Excellent review

Boro
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djozz wrote:
Very nice info, thanks for the review! Smile

+1

Excellent review with new/unique style.!

maukka
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Flashy Mike wrote:
The numbers seem rather low though, frequency should be 18 – 19kHz with this driver. The med2 value looks like a copy/paste error, according to Toykeepers code all modes except lowest one should run with fast pwm with the frequency mentioned above .

Ok, thanks for the heads up. I’ll double check the pwm.

Flashy Mike
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maukka wrote:
Ok, thanks for the heads up. I’ll double check the pwm.
Out of curiosity I checked the pwm frequency of a ATtiny13a sitting on my breadboard, and my old DMM says 15 kHz. Can’t use my oscilloscope for double check, it is even older, analog and totally de-calibrated. Attiny datasheet says the internal clock oscillator calibration has been done in factory – but not very accurate I guess …
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maukka, two thumbs up for your detailed review!! Thumbs UpGrad
Thanks for that!

' Lumen est omen '

Hope is no option!

DEL
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To get the specified clock tolerance you have to use the default internal oscillator (9.6 MHz for the tiny13). The calibration factor for the other oscillator is there, but you have to apply it manually in firmware. Look for the OSCCAL register.

http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2555.pdf

The Miller
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Very nice review!
Thanks!

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Great! I read through with interest.

edit: just wondering, did you see readings from initial flash lumens when power ON?
Over 1K lumens @30sec aint bad for this size of light anyway Cool

Flashy Mike
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DEL wrote:
To get the specified clock tolerance you have to use the default internal oscillator (9.6 MHz for the tiny13). The calibration factor for the other oscillator is there, but you have to apply it manually in firmware.
Ah, that’s interesting. I just fused the ATtiny mentioned above to 9.6 Mhz and the pwm frequency reading is now very accurate. I guess I can’t read the calibration value from Attiny program code?
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Thanks for the excellence review @maukka

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Great review! Thanks.
I love this tiny high cri quad copper head!

maukka
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CheapThrills wrote:
edit: just wondering, did you see readings from initial flash lumens when power ON?

Yes, the turbo lumens at power on are in one of the runtime graphs:

For the 18650, the numbers are 1364 lumens at 0 sec and 1175 lm at 30 sec.

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That’s professional maukka! Thanks you! Smile

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Wow! Really awesome info. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.

Dustin

maukka
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Flashy Mike wrote:
The numbers seem rather low though, frequency should be 18 – 19kHz with this driver. The med2 value looks like a copy/paste error, according to Toykeepers code all modes except lowest one should run with fast pwm with the frequency mentioned above .

I verified the light pwm. The pwm frequency is 17,2 kHz on all modes other than moonlight which is 8,6 kHz. Thanks for your tip!

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Thanks

CheapThrills
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maukka wrote:
CheapThrills wrote:
edit: just wondering, did you see readings from initial flash lumens when power ON?

Yes, the turbo lumens at power on are in one of the runtime graphs:

For the 18650, the numbers are 1364 lumens at 0 sec and 1175 lm at 30 sec.

Ah Big Smile

Very nice for the start Party

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Excellent info. Thank you maukka Thumbs Up

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Awesome review! I was searching for over discharge protection and your review answered my question!

Just purchased a pair of Samsung 30Q cells for this light i received yesterday, was wondering if anybody is using this battery along S41? Read on some post that 30Q provides too much Amp for this light and it will over heat very quickly. Any chance of the 30Q damaging it?

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I read this at least 10 times. Thank you for your excellent reviews. How many amps is it pulling with 18350, and how many with 18650?

Does anyone know if the S41 has fixed the green tint leds, and the shorting problems?

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I am new here. Great review above, I ordered one based off the recommendations. I have one issue with mine, my 18650’s were dead and all I had was the extender tube and two 18350’s so i inserted them and I am afraid I murdered my light… Is there any way of repairing the over voltage the light had from my neglect and lack of knowledge? Or should I cut my losses and just order a new one. It was the nichia version. Thanks in advance!!!

Lexel
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you can buy a replacement driver here
http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S1-BLF-A6-A17DD-L-FET-1-2_8-4_35v-7-4-M...

but firtst check if the LEDs are still intact
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94...

you can use a 18650 cell and connect it directly to the LED board to see if ther LEDs are fried or not

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Thanks for the info!!! I will test the components and see what need to be ordered!

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