In-depth review - Manker E14 (Nichia 219B and XP-G2 covered)

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In-depth review - Manker E14 (Nichia 219B and XP-G2 covered)

NOTE: Written review in progress, please check out in-depth vid for now...

 

INTRO

At the heart of a well-made flashlight sits the driver that provides the UI that controls the output levels and modes. More often than not, it plays a huge role in one's purchase decision and subsequently whether it's retained in the collection or flipped. Output matters little if the UI is clunky or difficult to use. To draw an analogy, you can have a V6 engine pumping out gobs of HP but if the transmission creates abrupt shifts or the ratios are not well spaced, it can totally ruin the driving experience.

One of the exciting features of Manker's latest release, the E14, is that it boasts four emitters (XP-G2 or Nichia 219B), however, just as equally (if not more) exciting is that it utilizes the well regarded A17DD-L FET+1 driver (AKA BLF A6). It's an advanced driver but easily mastered once one becomes familiar with it. It's also the first driver (in a non-ring control light) that I'm aware of that allows one to transition the output up or down obviating the need to cycle through all output levels.

Couple all this in a package that’s sized on par with most 1 x CR123 lights and touting a minimum output of 1400 lms for the 219B or 1600 lms for the XP-G2 (albeit for limited duration) and it beckons to be a shoe-in for the “Just buy it now!” category but might there be anything that could tarnish that recommendation? Let’s see shall we?

 

PACKAGING & ACCESSORIES

The E14 arrived nestled in ample cushioning within a cardboard box with a slip-off sleeve:

Accessories include: 1 x O-Ring, clip, wrist strap and the manual / specs sheet

 

 

MFG SPECS

 

 

DESIGN & FEATURES

The business end features a TIR optic that is internally-formed like the 4-cell stage of embryonic development:

 

It hides the quad emitters that comes in two flavors and corresponding tint;

 

L: Nichia 219B (5000K NW) | R: XP-G2 (6500K CW):

 

The bezel is flat with no crenelations and features the company name and model that is laser engraved around the circumference. There is nothing to denote the version of the E14 so if you own both, you'll either need to turn each on or find some other way to distinguish them.

 

Aft of the bezel is the all-copper “throat” with two fins which provides much needed heat-shedding abilities:

  
The outer surface seems to have a non-conductive coating applied as I get an OPEN reading when testing with my DMM but the inside of the fin isn’t and I’m able to get a SHORT.

 

The tube features mild knurling and a groove for the clip. Springs on either end allow it to accommodate a good range of batteries:

 

 
I had no issues using a long UltraFire 18350 w/PCB (L: 37.4mm) or the shortest cell, AW IMR 16340 (R: 33.8mm).

 

The threads on either end are fully anodized allowing the light to be locked out:


Though the threads aren’t square-cut, they came greased and operate smoothly. However, as is the norm in the industry, the underside of the o-ring wasn’t greased (if you don’t understand the significance of this, speak to me after class… ;o))

 

The tube is NOT reversible since the head side (side away from the groove for the clip) has about one less rung of thread and won’t be able to make contact w/the internal mating surface of the tailcap:

[2 PICS showing reversed and non-reversed] 
There is no spacer included to prevent R/CR123 batteries from rattling, however, I had to shake the E14 quite vigorously in order to induce any rattles. Furthermore, given the current the E14 can achieve, I wouldn't recommend using them anyways. You could go with an IMR 16340 but the runtime would be drastically short on the higher output levels.

 

The optional 18650 tube features 5 evenly spaced grooves carved on the side that are not found on the shorter tube:

  
It too can accommodate a good range of cells w/the shortest 18650 being my AW IMR (64.9mm) and longest being an ThorFire 3100 (69.6mm).

 

However, I feel the E14 loses its charm in this form factor and short of this review, I doubt I’ll be using it much:

 

As with the short tube, you can NOT reverse mount it as the head side also has one less rung of threading:

[2 PICS showing reversed and non-reversed]

Finishing off the light is the tailcap that features two guards that help prevent accidental activation of the forward-clicky switch and also allows the E14 to tailstand and be used in candlelight mode:

[PIC: TAILCAP FLARE ]  
There are two holes that one can attach the included wrist strap to.

 

The clip allows deep pocket carry and is reversible so one can attach it to the bill of cap for use as a makeshift headlamp:

  
It provides decent tension force so should reduce chances of slipping off.

 

NOTE: Written review in progress, please check out in-depth vid above for now... 

=======

Disclosure: 219B version provided by Manker for review, XP-G2 version purchased for personal use.

Edited by: sb56637 on 09/02/2017 - 12:02
M4D M4X
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very nice video and graphs!

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

Hobo
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Like it, too. Thank’s for your work.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

lumenzilla
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Thanks for your excellent review!

I have received mine today (Nichia version), I see that the tail cap is not 100% closed the gap. I can still see a a little part of the o-ring. Is it normal? What about yours?

turboBB
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@lumenzilla – That only happens on my sample when the tube is reversed, in which case, the light will not turn on since the shorter end (head side) will not make contact with the mating surface to complete the electrical path.

However, in your case, it sounds to me like the brass ring within the tailcap isn’t fully tightened. If you’re reasonably competent with tools and have a needle nose or snap-ring plier, you can tighten it yourself. Otherwise I suggest you get in contact with the reseller re: warranty service. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Cheers,
Tim

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Interesting to see the grooves/fins are not coated. I would never have thought to check that out.

Thanks for the review.

turboBB
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Yeah, the copper felt different to the touch vs. their Timeback. I suppose it was to prevent patina from occuring on the outer surface thus it was only applied to that part. Dunno what the process entails but I suppose it was easier than dunking the whole piece in the coating since the innards of the Cu piece still needs to maintain electrical conductivity.

c_malc
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There's a BIG problem with Nichia 219B !

 

The 4000K version is pocketable evening sunlight and it's spoiling me for anything else wink

pipifax
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can u review E11 too please?

lumenzilla
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turboBB wrote:
@lumenzilla – That only happens on my sample when the tube is reversed, in which case, the light will not turn on since the shorter end (head side) will not make contact with the mating surface to complete the electrical path.

However, in your case, it sounds to me like the brass ring within the tailcap isn’t fully tightened. If you’re reasonably competent with tools and have a needle nose or snap-ring plier, you can tighten it yourself. Otherwise I suggest you get in contact with the reseller re: warranty service. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Cheers,
Tim

Thank for your suggestion, I’ll see if your advice can solve the ‘problem’ Smile

MG
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Nice review. The detail photos help a lot. Love that quad MCPCB!

will34
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Nice review!

What are your thoughts about greasing the underside of the oring? That’s something I have never considered before, but it could make a huge difference in waterproofing!

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Houston, we have a problem?

De-domed in process?

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

HorizontalHunter
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c_malc wrote:

There’s a BIG problem with Nichia 219B !


 


The 4000K version is pocketable evening sunlight and it’s spoiling me for anything else wink

X2

I love mine as well. Really love the driver.

Still waiting for the extended tube from BangGood.

Bob

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Hi there -

I just got the nichia version, love it so far - except I cannot get it to go into turbo. It just flashes once, like a camera flash. I can back up or go forward from there through the settings, but it will not stay illuminated in turbo. I think it must be the battery - I have 2 "de" 18350's, same thing with either one. The battery check blinks 3 times, even when they are fresh out of the charger. I have no other batteries yet to try, so I don't know. I have 2 nitecore 18350's on the way, and 2 orbitron 18650's that haven't even shipped yet after a week for some reason also on the way (yes I got the extension tube as well). I hope someone sees this and has some insight regarding this issue, I hope it's not the light itself. Either way, I'll update this post when I have some more batteries to try, should be about 2 or 3 days.

PS I would go out and get some batteries if I could find any in a store, but no luck so far.

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spartacus_khan wrote:
… I cannot get it to go into turbo. It just flashes once, like a camera flash. I can back up or go forward from there through the settings, but it will not stay illuminated in turbo. I think it must be the battery – …
Protected?
This is a typical behavior of the action of the protection by high consumption.

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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Yeah, I just looked at the battery and it says "battery overcharge/discharge protection". Is there any way around it? Or do I just have to try other batteries?

update - 08-25 received 2x nitecore 18350's today, charged them and turbo works fine w/them, so it was the protection in the DE batteries.

Mohl
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Thanks for the heads up on the battery tubes not being reversible, I got the 18650 tube because I don’t have any 18350’s yet and I put the tube on backwards and the light wouldn’t come on.

mrheosuper
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Hello everybody
I was too stupid that i blew off all the dome of my manker e14 nichia version
So, i gonna to buy a 20mm led star board triple xpl-hl with TIR len in kaidomain
Yeah, a little monster
My question is, is it good to use tir with xpl-hl
And how many lumens will i archive(with imr 18350 xstar)
Have a nice day

Forgot my pen

mr.lumen
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hey! its so weird. i bought one of these and i have no knurling on the body piece only on the tail cap whats up with that?

HorizontalHunter
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mr.lumen wrote:
hey! its so weird. i bought one of these and i have no knurling on the body piece only on the tail cap whats up with that?

That is weird. I have not heard of that. Where did you buy it?

Bob

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antiparanoico
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mr.lumen wrote:
hey! its so weird. i bought one of these and i have no knurling on the body piece only on the tail cap whats up with that?
Any photo?

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

mr.lumen
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i got it off amazon about a week ago

mr.lumen
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i tried to insert an image url i posted the pic on facebook . i guess it doesnt work on this forum. maybe this will work. its weird because on the amazon ad they look like the one you have

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The photo shows up fine.
I like the light without the knurling on the battery tube. Let’s hope it is a one-off mistake and you have a unique flashlight! Smile

travis
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Is this the same light as Astrolux S41? Or just similar looks?

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travis wrote:
Is this the same light as Astrolux S41? Or just similar looks?

When they were introduced a year ago they wre identical. Since then BangGood and Manker has had a fallout, so the S41 is no longer made by Manker. E14 and S41 are still rather similar though, Manker seems to nowadays have a bit higher quality though.

The second generation of the lights, E14 II and S42, are not the same light anymore.