Purchased the Balder BD-2 from CNqualitygoods because it is the only XM-L model with WW/NW. I love WW lights.
Well there are many reviews of the BD-2/BD-1/BD-4 so i shall cover the more technical aspects which i don't see being covered.
First off, the impression. Built quality is solid. Unfortunately I recently purchased a Jetbeam RRT-2 XM-L which is of the same form factor/dimensions so with both in hand, the Jetbeam definitely feels more solid, perhaps due to the heavier weight. This is 130g while the JB RRT-2 XM-L is 161g. But if you do a knuckle rap you can feel the very slight difference. My main concern of a light that can take abuse is the tailcap (mechanical) because if the light takes a very bad fall, that is usually the part that goes first. The front part bezel is stainless steel which offers good protection compared to T-6061 so no issue there. Pretty much all the youtube videos i have seen regarding torture test involved the tailcap giving up first in huge drops. (not the electronics)
For example, TK10 stress test with huge drops onto concrete, tailcap goes first. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o1BeveMFJk&feature=player_embedded
I have asked others regarding the tailcap thickness/solidness but got no answers. I am glad to report that it feels pretty solid and is a little better than usual budgetlights of the same form factor, but the T-6061 thickness/mass is not as high as the BD-4. But then this is a much lighter light. But if you are talking about able to take abuse from shocks and drops, I have no qualm that this light can take it. What is left is real-life tests for confirmation, which unfortunately this is not a cheap light so don't expect to see any torture tests on youtube. Of course in reality, 99.99% of us do no subject our lights to > 6 foot drop.
PS. One thing I want to say regarding torture tests, is that those freezing in the freezer in blocks of ice etc...are not torture tests. I have seen this in CPF and people flinging the light hard onto a wooden fence and rocks etc...and they argue that "this is the max which real life can dish out". LED lights do work reliably in -40 deg C climate. So do cameras (ok, they probably start to go wonky at -50-60). And my $9 TK-703 can suvive a couple of 4-7m falls and a 300G plus washing machine spin cycle as i have posted on youtube. I have put my DRY triple XM-L in -30 deg C and see how direct-drive affects the light (I was able to gun it for a good 15 mins), it's not a torture test to me as i want to know the behaviour, just that. And Li-ion still work, albeit reduced capacity but not till the point when it is unusable. When you do use your light often esp outdoors, the chance of them encountering incidents do go up a lot. Torture tests are good marketing tools though.... :)
Switch tactile feel is the same as BD-4, it is actually pretty firm and gives you a very positive click. Perhaps slightly too firm, not sure if this would translate to a better contact/higher pressure. So maybe it is more resistant to shocks? (sorry this is not a cheap light, so no drop tests LOL!)
This Warm white version has a slightly more pinkish/reddish hue compared to the Xeno E03 4C tint. This is especially noticeable when the lights are in low, the Xeno E03 XM-L 4C has a very slight green tint in low. The Balder BD-2 WW has none whatsoever. Overall the Balder warm white looks "healthier", the Xeno's 4C looking a bit pale.
Left Xeno E03 XM-L 4C, Middle - Balder BD-2 warm white, Right - iTP EOS A1 at 1.8lm You can see the slight green tint, you would not notice it till you compare it directly with another warm white light.
Measurements.
H-M-L = 2.99A, 0.6A, 0.071A. I could get higher amps for HIGH is coz i am using a NCR18650A 3100mAh. But the same is achievable with a Solarforce 2400.
Lux meter estimated lumens OTF (ceiling bounce) = 500L, 150L, 27L OTF. Remember, this is warm white. The drop in light output is the same compared to my DRY CW and WW, difference of about 35%. The CW version should give you 750L at first before it drops out of regulation.
Throw, 7.3k cd uncorrected. Add 10% = 8k cd. (infamous DX lux meter which under-reads) Compartively the Jetbeam RRT-2 XM-L has the same ceiling bounce but throw is 5.4k cd uncorrected. Both are OP. And remember, my light is WW (-35% at least) and the RRT-2 XM-L is CW.
Absolutely undetectable PWM in all modes.
The front glass cuts 7% light (93% light transmission) and is not AR coated. You can opt for a UCL lens, 28.6mm x 2.84mm. Original is 29mm x 2mm. The design of the reflector and pill is that both can screw to the host independently on the same thread, so lens thickness is not an issue.
I haven't seen people mentioning it, but this is one of the few lights that can be used as a candle.
