Mod - Sipik 58 with LED Lenser optic (picture heavy)

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Firelight2
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Reassembled the bezel. Made a few changes this time:

  • Bezel is composed of 3 pieces: underlying aluminum bezel, optic, and an aluminum ring on the top to help protect the edge of the bezel.
  • First step is to glue the bezel in (I used Grey Stuff epoxy putty). While the epoxy is hardening, test it to make sure it is properly oriented and not tilted. Rotate the bezel around while testing to check the beam looks good no matter the bezel rotation.
  • Once that is cured, then attach the cover ring on the top edge of the bezel with more grey stuff.
  • Filed the edges for a clean smooth appearance that feels great in the hand.
  • Before assembly, I applied Birchwood Armory aluminum black to both pieces. I wasn’t too impressed with the result… the finish it produced was black, but not durable at all. I ended up filing it off the exterior portion of the bezel. It did work well for the interior however, where it helps to remove artifacts in the spillbeam.

Here is a picture of the new bezel:

Picture inside the business end:

Note that I removed some of the white epoxy I had on the sides of the pillar. This makes the view down the bezel look a bit uglier when the light is off but has no effect on the beam out the front.

Another picture down the business end this time in spot mode:

Beam pattern in flood mode. Beam is a perfect circle with little or no artifacts (note that these beamshots were taken on a cream-colored wall and do not accurately reflect the tint which is a clean 5000K 3D with no hint of yellow):

Beam pattern in spot mode from the same distance:

Not the tighest spot mode, but the pattern looks great and it sill has good throw. Ceiling bounce test reveals no noticeable loss of lumens when cycling between flood and throw.

Still to do on this light:

  • Polish the bezel
  • Consider removing the anodizing on the remainder of the light and polishing it.
  • Consider attempting to bore out the tube again to try to fit a 16500. This would require further work on the battery compartment and then widening the contact rings at the head and switch. Risky…

Rufusbduck
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Hey firelight, making the pictures large doesn’t make them any bigger than the screen it just makes the text tiny. If you set size to 100% in the drop down box then the pictures only go to the same right side border as the text and both are legible.

How much zoom travel with that light. The Osh host only had ~1/8” and didn’t go all the way tight or all the way flood.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Firelight2
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Hey firelight, making the pictures large doesn’t make them any bigger than the screen it just makes the text tiny. If you set size to 100% in the drop down box then the pictures only go to the same right side border as the text and both are legible.

How do I do that? Where is this drop down box? Pretty much all I’ve been doing is emailing 10% size pictures from my phone, putting them in Photobucket and linking them directly. I’d be happy to adjust the formatting to make the thread look better if I knew how.

Quote:
How much zoom travel with that light. The Osh host only had ~1/8” and didn’t go all the way tight or all the way flood.

Zoom travel is 1/4”.

I’ll see about measuring the zoom angle.

My other bezel gets a slightly tighter spot mode where you can clearly see the image of the die, but I’m not sure it’s actually getting any more throw as there is a noticeable reduction in lumens if I let it go that far (as seen with a ceiling bounce test). Perhaps I should do some tests with my lux meter to see if there is a better position for max throw.

For the flood beam, it’s close, but probably not at the absolute max width. I didn’t want the top of the LED actually hitting the lens. I eyeballed it rather than taking precise measurements.

Rufusbduck
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When you make a post there’s a row of icons just above the input window. The one of a sunset is used to import links to pictures. You tap the icon to bring up the window, then bring up photobucket(which is what I use as well and copy paste the direct link from PB to the first line in the window. The second line is size relative width, type “100%” there and click ok. The film clip is for linking video and the globe/chain link is for linking other web pages or posts.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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It makes an image this size instead.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Firelight2
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Thanks for the tip Rufusbduck.

All pictures in this thread have been updated. Big Smile

Rufusbduck
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Thank you very much. Was the explanation clear enough? I use my phone sometimes but usually the iPad mini.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Thank you very much. Was the explanation clear enough? I use my phone sometimes but usually the iPad mini.

Very clear thanks.

Previously I was just copy-pasting the html link in Photobucket directly into my post. I’ve now learned the best way to do it is to copy-paste the direct link into the window with the icon into the window with the little button on it. Very helpful.

Tomorrow I’ll update the photos in my related e-switch thread.

Rufusbduck
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The main difference is this is added at the beginning of the link. “{width100%}”

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Firelight2
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I removed the anodizing on my LED Lenser optic Sipik 58. Here it is polished up (right), next to my older aspheric lens with reflector sipik 58 (left)

Agro
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Firelight2, would you be able to re-upload the pics?

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