Jaxman Z1 Discussion

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KawiBoy1428
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Custom, pick your own levels, 60 second Turbo timer (for safety) you can alway’s kick it back up and the LVP. Thumbs Up

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Ouchyfoot
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Not having any real experience with zooming lights, I’m not really sure what mode settings are best for a light like this, and which ones are rarely used. Obviously, it doesn’t function, or is designed to perform like a standard reflector flashlight, so I’d like to get the custom modes
just right.

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Something else to think about… Facepalm

CUSTOM: Choose your own modes (please put desired modes in checkout comments)

1 to 6 modes Ascending or descending mode order Facepalm

Memory: (n/a for guppydrv)

​Yes: remembers last mode. No: always starts in first mode Facepalm

Big Smile

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On the XHP35 @ 2.5amp – 2000lumen there about, base your choices on what levels you would want for your use? Indoor/outdoors? My big lights I don’t need a going to the out house to pee level and would mostly be used outdoors in cooler weather, and I carry a smaller light for navigating at night, so I keep the levels towards my intended usage, XHP35 I like 25% (500lumen low) 50% 75% 100% the XHP70’s 5000+ lumen 10%(500lumen low) 30%70%100% I like having the memory for outdoor spot/search/hunting lights so I can keep it at the Turbo level for scanning on/off, while on stand or in my hide,usually over an open field or in light to heavy woods to brush I can use the lower level for on/off scanning. But this works for me, it is what I like, from my experience’s in the field! Wink

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Yourrid
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Every light I build gets guppydrv v2 no matter what. I almost have all of the modes memorized now haha!

I’m a little OCD about keeping my lights charged. I literally have to use my charger to cycle them every now and then because they never go bellow 50%.

I think it depends on what you’re going to use it for. If was going to use a light for a camping weekend, where I may need to use the light until it dies… then I’d definitely pick one with low voltage protection.

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Yes. That’s what I mean. It’s not really a light meant for taking the dog for a stroll in the park, so I didn’t really think the lower modes would get a lot of use, just modes to skip past.

DB Custom
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Why isn’t it a stroll-in-the-park light? The zoom feature allows a beam pattern for what you wish it to be. Wide angle flood for a walk, zoomed in hot spot for a shot at game or searching for the dogs lost ball under the brush.

Moon is nice with the wide angle, for a great many purposes. Not so much the zoom tight beam which is where Turbo comes in.

Leave yourself options. Then you can explore how the light works and set it up accordingly.

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Now I’m getting really confused, but you’re right, since I’ve never really used a zoomie, I should keep all my options open. These drivers aren’t cheap, so I better choose wisely.

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Wide open, the zoomie is great for working inside the computer or under the dash of the car, it has no hot spot and spreads light evenly from up close, great in a low mode and close up work. Zoomed in, the beam is very narrow, with virtually no spill, so it can be used to see a specific range like the walking trail in front of you without illuminating the sides or causing distraction by lighting up the whole room while raiding the fridge. Wink

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WolfA wrote:
akhyar wrote:
I’m also interested in the stock Z1 with XHP50 emitter, but only when using 2× 26350 batteries as I’m not fond of the extended length of 2× 26650 as I do find the size of the “pipebomb” feels just nice in the hand. But so far only one member has tested the Z1 XHP50 with 2× 26350 and his initial impressions on the config is not that impressive, so I’m reading this thread on what are the options available

I did resistor mod in the meantime. It doubled the tailcap Amperes and got the light A LOT BRIGHTER!

Look here for more information: Z1 resistor mod

Thanks for the link and the follow-up photo.

DB Custom
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I should clarify, the zoomed in beam is so tight it won’t help much on a walking trail, with no spill you’ll only see about a grapefuit sized spot on the ground in front of you. But it can easily be zoomed wider at will, to fill the area you want to illuminate. Be that a meter wide or 20 M wide. You’ll find it to be quite useful in a lot of different scenario’s, full zoom probably least of all with it’s very specific hot spot, which will in virtually all cases be square. (mine is the only emitter I am aware of with a round die face, so it makes a round beam in the aspheric, this is the SBT-70, one of the primary reasons I like it so much)

teacher
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emarkd wrote:
I’m not really sure how to respond to this line of conversation. Maybe I shouldn’t say anything at all, and yet here I go anyway Smile

I kinda feel bad since I’m the one that started the conversation about the pill surface finishing, but on the other hand I feel like I was fair and understanding in my comments, and I also feel like I had a genuine concern that others should be aware of. Some of the more experienced modders may check and hand-finish every pill they touch, but I bet some of the newer guys don’t. I know I didn’t when I was first starting out. So I was just trying to help others who may come after us, since that was what the “first 10” was called upon to do. If something I said offended Paul or Jaxman then I truly apologize. It was not my intention. I think they make a fantastic product and hope they’ll continue to work with us.

I’ll just keep this short & sweet. Personally ‘emarkd’ I did not read anything in your post that was out of line. You simply told your experience and what you did to fix it. Question That is all I remember reading. It was what it was. You seem to have gotten one with a pill that needed a bit more work than mine or some others… just like Jaxman does when he builds his lights..

The wire holes in one of mine were not exactly opposite each other, but still the pill was completely usable.
I think as long as we realize that we are/were getting the same hosts Jaxman gets, and that once in a blue moon a component may not be exactly perfect; all will/would be well. I feel positive that in the extremely rare event that something was so out of whack as to be unusable Paul would take care of that.

Anyway, I think possibly we may have gotten some “bad Intel” from a former member as to the amount of feedback that Jaxman actually wanted about these Z1 hosts. He was simply going to supply us with the same hosts he uses and deals with on a daily basis as they assemble them. We as ‘modders’ would be expected to do the same as they do; correct any slight discrepancy. Just as you did and reported on. Thumbs Up

I did not read anywhere where you criticized him or the way he runs his business. I thought what you said was very helpful & insightful.

Oh yeah, I think your Z1 with the MT-G2 is great!! Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher
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In fact, in this thread I have not seen one thing that would or could even be considered divisive in any way. I personally think some things were said in a couple of other threads that were totally uncalled for, but I don’t recall they were said by anyone that has posted in this thread.

And I agree with what someone said about not sweeping anything under the rug, we should not. But as far as I am concerned this is a proven light and host. If there is anything that needs “tweaking” during assembly that would benefit others by posting it… by all means do so. And if we ever do get the chance at getting a GB going in the future, I hope we make the best of it. Wink

But as far as I am concerned when jaxman explains to us how they do it assembling the lights, that is good enough. It is uncalled for that anyone question how they do it or dismiss their process in any way…. as was done in spades on a couple of other threads. Those persons should design their own light, start producing them, and do it however they wish….. instead of criticizing another man’s process.

Anyway, here is to a Bright Future…….. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

leroycp
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teacher wrote:
In fact, in this thread I have not seen one thing that would or could even be considered divisive in any way. I personally think some things were said in a couple of other threads that were totally uncalled for, but I don’t recall they were said by anyone that has posted in this thread.

And I agree with what someone said about not sweeping anything under the rug, we should not. But as far as I am concerned this is a proven light and host. If there is anything that needs “tweaking” during assembly that would benefit others by posting it… by all means do so. And if we ever do get the chance at getting a GB going in the future, I hope we make the best of it. Wink

But as far as I am concerned when jaxman explains to us how they do it assembling the lights, that is good enough. It is uncalled for that anyone question how they do it or dismiss their process in any way…. as was done in spades on a couple of other threads. Those persons should design their own light, start producing them, and do it however they wish….. instead of criticizing another man’s process.

Anyway, here is to a Bright Future…….. Thumbs Up

Agree…and it was necessary to make ALL OF US aware of the issue. That is how we learn. I learned from it! …and I want an MT-G2 version if the host GB proceeds. Like It!

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Ha yeah, well put teacher and leroycp.
And man oh man what cool led that MTG2 is for this light.

DB Custom
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From 489 lumens zoomed to 945 lumens, without a power increase.

I figured I’d give a dual lens set-up a try like MEM does, being as how I had a 28mm aspheric sitting around doing nothing. So I’ve spent a good portion of the day making a holder for a second lens such that light would be focused into the larger aspheric. This does and doesn’t work, it gives a larger hot spot and effectively doubles the lumens output in Turbo/zoom but it really decreases the range of flood.

I’ll get some pics of what I did and show ya,,, it’s been quite a day… 101 in the shade where I work at the lathe, no air flow at all as the neighbor, once again, has blocked all the South windows with round bales of hay. Ugh. I’m soaked and tired. lol

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What is the distance between the emitter and the 28mm aspheric ?

Also , did you measured the difference in throw ?

I can already imagine this nice mod Wink

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Most of what makes something like this truly successful is knowing what you’re doing, like MEM. Me, not so much. MEM researches the characteristics of the two lenses, matches their outputs and very carefull makes the holder within a thousandth such that everything is working together in an optimized fashion. I used what I had at hand, the two lenses are probably nowhere near being right for each other, but in the end the lumens is higher, the hot spot larger, and it kept me busy for half a day. Silly

My idea was to make an aluminum tube, threaded to fit where the cover plate goes, and threaded inside to accommodate a secondary holder for the optic itself. This would let me thread the smaller aspheric up or down to fine tune focus. I planned to have the threaded tube long enough to cover the smaller optic so the two glass lenses would not crash into each other. This proved a worthy goal, a difficult one, and I had to return to the lathe 3 times to get it right. My initial judgement on the focal point of the 28mm aspheric was pretty close and ultimately I got em working together. Now maybe I’ll look for a better choice for the secondary lens.

My copper pill was made with a broader shoulder to fill the available space without causing issues on the movement…

The smaller aspheric in it’s holder can thread up/down but as it turns out, is more ideally placed at the bottom of it’s travel, so a good deal of the work I did to make it adjustable was for naught. Perhaps a more appropriate lens will make more use of this feature. I had to thread the base of the secondary adapter at 1mm to match inside the head, I used this to place the retaining ring over the small aspheric as well, then I turned to 0.5mm threads for the finer adjustment inside the adapter tube and outside the optic holder. Lot of threading, much of which I did by turning the chuck by hand. Exhausting stuff in this heat! Short runs I don’t like engaging the motor as it’s too easy to crash it.

I intended to put a groove in the face of the holder for a thin o-ring, so there wouldn’t be metal to glass when the light is pulled all the way in. But I’ve got it sanded pretty smooth so it should be all right. Wink

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The small aspheric is only mm’s away from the die face, like 5-6mm. The larger primary ends up maybe 18-20mm from the secondary when zoomed, it’s not much and goes out of focus if zoomed the length of the thread travel.

I’ll show MEM how horribly I screwed this up and he’ll take pity on me and help me find the right secondary optic. Wink lol

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COOL!
And you can play with the placing of the inner lens, WAUWIE!
This was a very nicebuild light wth that LED and now you managed to up that!
All looks great! the threads, the holder, and above all the idea of doing it adjustable for better focus or other lens NICE!

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Well, I can’t take credit, I was just going to glue it in with Sugru and call it a day and in fact, did glue it in last night. But the stuff MEM has been talking about must’ve percolated while I slept and I woke up around 3AM with this idea on the soggy noodle. So this morning I got up, pulled the Sugru out, and by about 8:30AM I was out in the shop.

It was then that I discovered while ideas are all well and good, execution is another story. Silly I’m still new on the lathe, it’s work, especially with the heat, but in the end I think it’s worth it.

This is 3 pieces, with 5 areas of threading, might have bit off more than I could chew.

For someone like me, coming from hacking stuff together with a cordless drill and a Sears Rotary tool with a few files and some sandpaper, this is really flippin cool to be able to do! For folks like Hoop and TexasLumens and MRsDNF, it’s probably painful to look at. Sorry guys, but I’m plugging away at it! Silly (Honestly, how many machinists got started so out of the blue? No experience with a lathe whatsover, to making lights, it’s quite the transition and I’m probably doing it all wrong, but doing it at all is fun to accomplish!)

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That’s actually quite fantastic, threading on the lathe is a pita, i turn the spindle by hand without starting the motor for most intricate threading like that.

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One thing I like about this is that the secondary optic holder simply screws in to replace the black aluminum cover piece, so it’s easy to put it back into a tighter beam be simply swapping the two pieces.

I’ll probably get a nicer optic and see what that brings to the table. $35 for one I found at Edmunds. This little budget host has gotten expensive! Silly

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Trade-offs and compromises.

I’m now only seeing 57.25Kcd, down from the 92Kcd previously. So while the larger hot spot is brighter overall in lumens, it doesn’t throw as far. Ugh.

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The physics of it all is confusing to me. How can brighter throw less far …. Uhh….no simply don’t get it.

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Or how can dimmer throw further? It’s about losses and efficiencies.

By pre-focusing the light with the first aspheric, the second aspheric isn’t bending the light as much, so it has a bigger brighter hot spot. But due to this spot being larger, it doesn’t have the specific intensity that a smaller more gathered spot would have. More lumens overall, as more of the light is captured and dispered, but less intensity due in part, no doubt, to an improper mating of optics.

The best throwers have been the smaller dies, a de-domed XP-G2 or even XP-E2, making relatively little lumens put putting it all downrange in a tight beam.

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DB Custom wrote:
Or how can dimmer throw further? It’s about losses and efficiencies.

By pre-focusing the light with the first aspheric, the second aspheric isn’t bending the light as much, so it has a bigger brighter hot spot. But due to this spot being larger, it doesn’t have the specific intensity that a smaller more gathered spot would have. More lumens overall, as more of the light is captured and dispered, but less intensity due in part, no doubt, to an improper mating of optics.

The best throwers have been the smaller dies, a de-domed XP-G2 or even XP-E2, making relatively little lumens put putting it all downrange in a tight beam.

Someone needs to create a “that’s over my head” emogee Crying

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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Coscar wrote:

Someone needs to create a “that’s over my head” emogee Crying
Thumbs Up …. Wink

Edit to add: It sure does look nice though……… Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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If you have a 12” water pipe, it’s really difficult to get high water pressure. But if you have a 1/2” water pipe, high water pressure is pretty easy. The small die surface acts similarly in that it’s more easily collimated to throw all it’s light output downrange. This is what the aspheric is doing, concentrating all the available light in a small column.

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I’m working on my copper Z1 heatsinks today. Would y’all prefer a copper heatsink with a driver pocket that accommodates the stock 22mm driver, and so requires a brass adapter ring to use smaller ones such as 17mm drivers, or would it be ok if the heatsink is only be compatible with 17mm drivers? I figure most people will want to use 17mm drivers but the option to use 22mm MTN buck drivers and such might be appealing to some. Using a 17mm retaining ring would allow me to use the ones I’ve already got made for the s2+ heatsinks, which would be convenient for me, and also I wouldn’t have to make adapter rings either, but I’m willing to do it if people want 22mm driver compatibility.

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