Manker E14 Mods

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Edness
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CRX wrote:
It’s a fairly simple swap, i think i just cut the nub off the rubber boot and used a slightly thinner washer.

Thanks for the tip. I was able to reuse the plastic washer and installed a forward clicky with spring bypassed. Much brighter!(and more useless as it heats up even quicker)

I was wondering if XP-L will fit under the optics? Or you think I should stick with XP-L HI?

CRX
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I was wondering the same, the new XP-L2’s might fit but i haven’t looked at it properly yet.
I did buy an extra optic so will probably install some higher powered emitters even if the optic needs modified a little Evil

Edness
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Hmm…Now I might wait until XP-L2’s available and wait for you to mod it first! Thumbs Up

I guess if they do come out with XP-L2 HI then it’s a no brainer for me. No need to worry about the optics dedoming the LEDs.

PowerRam
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This has been my dream light for a while now and I finally got one! I’m following your lead on some of the mods I’m doing as well. I hope you don’t mind. Acouple questions though. How do you like the forward clicky with the way the modes are set up on this light, and WHERE CAN I GET A TAILCAP LIKE THAT!! HAHA. Sorry but you took what I thought was a work of art and turned it into an absolute masterpiece! I’m serious about the copper tail cap thoughlol. Is it a one off or something? great work man. my hat is off to you.

CRX
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Thanks friend, the tritium tailcap has a forward clicky in it and the 18500 tube has a reverse clicky.
I changed the driver to a MTN fet with guppydrv1 so it works nicely with either.

The 18500 tube I made from an 18650 extension tube, switch and copper wire.

SeniorXJ
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CRX wrote:
Thanks friend, the tritium tailcap has a forward clicky in it and the 18500 tube has a reverse clicky.
I changed the driver to a MTN fet with guppydrv1 so it works nicely with either.

The 18500 tube I made from an 18650 extension tube, switch and copper wire.

Can you show us how you did the copper on the bottom and on the tail cap? I’d like to build one myself just like yours so any help would be highly appreciated!

Thanks

scrumpypaul
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Ridiculously sexy

MascaratumB
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CRX,

The last picture (down-right)…was it there before? Silly

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

CRX
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Yes it was there, I just re-arranged stuff.

MascaratumB
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CRX wrote:
Yes it was there, I just re-arranged stuff.

Oops, I fail to remember that then, sorry Facepalm
Anyway, that “all black” version is quite nice Thumbs Up Smile

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

SeniorXJ
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Any chance on showing us how you did the copper rings & tailcap??

CRX
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SeniorXJ wrote:
CRX wrote:
Thanks friend, the tritium tailcap has a forward clicky in it and the 18500 tube has a reverse clicky.
I changed the driver to a MTN fet with guppydrv1 so it works nicely with either.

The 18500 tube I made from an 18650 extension tube, switch and copper wire.

Can you show us how you did the copper on the bottom and on the tail cap? I’d like to build one myself just like yours so any help would be highly appreciated!

Thanks

Persistent aren’t you Big Smile

I can’t show you, some experimentation is required on your part but I used an 18650 tube, cut some of the threads off to suit the cell and switch length then made up some copper circles of the correct size and soldered them.
I placed them on the end of the cut down tube with some JB weld and spacing them with 1mm o-rings , removed the o-rings once hardened, applied more JB weld and smoothed off.
Another smaller copper ring from 1mm wire for around the switch boot.

CRX
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MascaratumB wrote:

Anyway, that “all black” version is quite nice Thumbs Up Smile

Yeah that was done with cold bluing solution.
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Can you provide a link to the 18500 tube you used? Anybody else familiar with it? I have a lot of 18500’s.

CRX
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pinkpanda3310
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New tube and tail looks awesome Star

SeniorXJ
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CRX wrote:
It’s a fairly simple swap, i think i just cut the nub off the rubber boot and used a slightly thinner washer.

What model# clicky switch is the black one you upgraded to? Tks!

CRX
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SeniorXJ
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CRX
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What model? You can usually fit these in lights with rubber boots that have a reverse clicky switch, it just requires a little work like cutting the nub off the boot, maybe a different washer and sometimes sanding down the retaining ring a little.
I put one in this S2+.

You just need to equalize the heights.

Umpi2000
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Hi CRX,
how many of the measurements can you give me of the copper head of the e14/s41? in the perfect world I’d love a CAD Wink

CRX
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Em, none Big Smile . I sold this light quite a while ago.
Maybe another owner could help you out.

Umpi2000
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Thanks CRX

scintillator
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Hi all Just checked my E14 and found the same faults as CRX great to have this thread for reference.
My first time going this deep into a light and it is fun.
One novice question why did you switch the + and – leads?
Does that cause any problems if I reuse the stock driver and switch?
Thanks much.

CRX
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There was a huge uproar at the time about a safety issue with the positive MCPCB trace being on the outside, very close to the fixing screws so I turned the LEDs around on the pads and connected the wires correspondingly.
You wont have any problems using the original switch and driver as long as they are connected properly, ie you can’t just swap the wires, you would need to reflow the emitters with the same polarity.

scintillator
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Thank you I understand now.
When I screwed the pcb down I cranked pretty hard on the screws and one of them shorted through the red paint and made smoke.
I checked and led`s still work so I need to insulate those screws or use plastic ones.
cheers

CRX
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Yeah, that was the problem. Really not good, if that had been the negative trace instead the light would have just come on in direct drive, single mode but instead with the trace the way it is it shorts the cell Facepalm

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