Built my first triple! EE X6 XP-L V6 3D triple 11,3A

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ZozzV6
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Video of soldering together the spacer, noctigon and leds:

jescereal
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Thanks for the video! Could you explain the screw thing? I know it must keep it all centered and pressed together, I just don’t know how it does that. What kind of screw is it?

ZozzV6
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It’s nothing special. A regular M4 allen screw and a nut and some washers and a spring. The big shiny thing under the spacer is a huge washer to clear the screw’s head from underneath and to slowing down the heat up a little. The spring is compressed to press out the unnecesary solder paste when melted. And the screw is also make the centering as you mentioned.

Fesso
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Nice build, I’m new. Just posting here to be able to find it and your photo album again and to thank you for documenting your work.
Cheers!

“Blessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.”

Marx (Groucho)

ZozzV6
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Thank you! You’re welcome!

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ZozzV6 wrote:
And the lighted tailcap is working Big Smile
I used BLF A17DD driver, and 470 Ohm bleeder resistor on driver and 47KOhm resistors for each pair of the 6 leds in the tailcap. In the tailcap I used PD68s rev5.1 led ring board instead of the stock aluminum washer. This is for the 14mm rubber boot.
The six leds eat 0,106mA so if I use a 3000mA battery it will last for about 19 days.

I did an electronic switch. Too much current for the mechanical switch.
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showpost.php?p=860901&postcount=65


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Serp wrote:
I did an electronic switch. Too much current for the mechanical switch.
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showpost.php?p=860901&postcount=65


!http://forum.fonarevka.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=164406&stc=1&thumb...!

Nice switch mod! I use my lights rerely on turbo so I keep the lighted tailcap in this but I keep it in mind for later builds. What is the current limit which your setup can handle? A palight Boss1 with 6 XPL V6 leds and two BLF A17DD drivers can reach 20-30A that is why I asking Smile
Oh and anybody knows that one BLF A17DD can handle 6 leds in tudbo mode or I need two to do as 3 leds for one driver?
Serp
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>>What is the current limit which your setup can handle?
it’s depend from yuor MOSFET
1st I’m used 47uF, 1M Ohm, IRF78009A
current was 4.3A (3*nichia219)

2nd I’m use CSD17307Q5A, 6,2МОhm, 100uF

When using this circuit Reverse Clicky Switch becomes a Forward Clicky Switch Smile
There is also a leakage current. Therefore, it may not work correctly switching modes (like last memory mode).
Time of open FET also depends from the applied Schottky diode & capacity capacitor (leakage current).

try on prototyping board
The longer the gate voltage of the transistor, the longer it will be opened

Xoden
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Video of soldering together the spacer, noctigon and leds:

That’s both pretty crafty and pretty simple setup to press everything together.
Do you control the hot plate temperature in some way or just put it to maximum burn?
How much solder paste did you use between the MCPCB and the spacer, a thin layer smeared over the whole surface?

I’m not satisfied with how my spacer and MCPCB soldering turns out (or maybe pretty much all of my soldering Silly ), so I try to uncover others’ trade secrets. Smile

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I will make a video of the whole build process but there is a lot other work to do around the new house so Maybe it need a month or so to cut the videos I made.
I turned on the hot plate and put a big washer under the spacer for clear the bolt head and to slow down heat transfer to spacer. I used an infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. When the big washer reached about 200 °C I put on the assembly and watch for melting. I used a thin layer of solder paste as you said on the whole top surface of the spacer just thick to not able to see copper colour through paste. after soldering you need to clean or drill the holes a little bit for the lens legs in the noctigon because solder run up there too.

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 So you switched the switch board for the one from Oshpark. But what about the switch itself? Is it still the original one or did you exchange that one, too?

Also, did you glue the spacer to the head? Or did you take some other measure to improve the heat transfer from spacer to the body? I'm asking just because I'm just in the process of building that exact same triple (just without the lighting tail cap). I can see a small gap between the spacer and the head wall and I'm thinking of filling this gap but I'm unsure how to do that. Glueing it in using artic alumina or filling it with solder? Thanks for any info.

Regards, jdm

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I stayed with the original EE switch, and in the head I glued the whole spacer assembly with thermal glue. My spacer is really tight fit so I sanded down the sde after soldering together and added glue to the side also. Then when Í pushed in to the head, and put the screw what you see in the video in the middle hole and tighten down without the spring to press the spacer in head and push out unnecessary glue amount. After this I cleaned the outcoming glue, and rested for two days with the srew tightened.

vwpieces
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Very nice. Love the lit tail

My EE host arrived today.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
I stayed with the original EE switch, and in the head I glued the whole spacer assembly with thermal glue. My spacer is really tight fit so I sanded down the sde after soldering together and added glue to the side also. Then when Í pushed in to the head, and put the screw what you see in the video in the middle hole and tighten down without the spring to press the spacer in head and push out unnecessary glue amount. After this I cleaned the outcoming glue, and rested for two days with the srew tightened.
I think I'll try to fill the gap with solder. If this doesn't work, I'll also go for the glue.

Regards, jdm

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The head will suck a lot of heat so I think the solder will dry at the top of the gap and can not go down enough. You will have a big air gap around the spacer.

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My plan is to put the whole head on the cooking plate, that should heat it up enough <img src= " />

Have you ever tried a XP-L HI instead of a XP-L? Does this give a tighter beam?

Regards, jdm

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That will maybe do the job. I only built two with XP-L V6 3D leds.

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X6 triple vs grey sponge after 5 seconds:

And after 30 seconds:

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Sure Thumbs Up Big Smile

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ZozzV6 wrote:
It’s nothing special. A regular M4 allen screw and a nut and some washers and a spring. The big shiny thing under the spacer is a huge washer to clear the screw’s head from underneath and to slowing down the heat up a little. The spring is compressed to press out the unnecesary solder paste when melted. And the screw is also make the centering as you mentioned.

Hi, what did you use to heat up the solder paste?

Thanks for sharing your build, btw.

we buy light for a brighter tomorrow

ZozzV6
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I used a cooking single electric hot plate to heat up the whole thing. I use it often to replace leds on stars too.

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Thanks for the heads up.

we buy light for a brighter tomorrow

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