Lengthy Review of the Olight S1A Baton

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DavidEF
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Lengthy Review of the Olight S1A Baton

Well, here I thought I was special! Facepalm Lydia from Olight contacted me (as apparently others on this forum) to review the Olight S1A Baton. Although I’m not the first to get my review up, I’m hoping it helps shed some more light on this Olight product. Sooooo….. Here we go!

Olight S1A Baton is a compact single AA size flashlight which accepts Alkaline, NiMH, and 1.5V Primary Lithium cells as well as Li-Ion 14500 rechargeable cells. The S1A that I received came in a small clear plastic product package. Inside the package was the Olight S1A Baton, a nice Olight branded lanyard, and a concise usage manual written in several languages. This manual covers basic features and specifications of the light, battery installation, and operation procedures.

The Olight S1A Baton comes pre-loaded with a 1.5V Lithium Primary cell, which the packaging refers to as simply Lithium Iron Battery. Question There is a piece of plastic between the bottom of the cell and the tail spring, keeping it from making electrical contact during storage/shipping. After removing the protective plastic piece and putting the tail-cap back on, the light is ready for use. I thought it was interesting that Olight also included a small metal pin on the end of the lanyard which makes it easier to thread the lanyard through the lanyard hole on the tail-cap. Cool trick. I’ve not seen that with flashlights.
Star

The S1A is designed with the typical Olight shape/appearance, which I happen to like. Big Smile It has the typical magnet-in-the-tail-cap. It has the typical compact build and the typical square knurling on the battery tube and tail-cap. One ‘new’ appearance detail is the blue PVD coating on the bezel and side-button trim. These are nice aesthetic touches – if you like blue (which I do). The S1A also includes the typical Olight clip-on belt/pocket clip. I like the looks and the functionality of this clip – to a point. When I was carrying my S20-L2 every day, the clip, which had the same design as this one on the S1A, began to loosen up and eventually would lose its grip on the light if bumped. I can’t tell how many times I had to go back and look for my flashlight because it had fallen off in the car when I sat down and it bumped the seat-belt clip. The part of the clip that goes over a belt/pocket/cap-bill/etc. is a nice design, but the part that clips around the battery tube needs to be re-visited by engineering. The clip does work well enough if the light is inside a pocket, where the clip’s only task is to hold the light in a steady position.
Star

Let’s talk briefly about the modes. There are five lighting levels plus Strobe for a total of six modes: Moonlight (0.5lm) Low (5lm) Medium (50lm) High (220lm start, stepping down to 100lm) Turbo (600lm start, stepping down to 300lm) Strobe (Turbo/High level strobe). The output/run-time spec shows how the time is divided between the dual levels for the modes that have step-downs. It has been mentioned before that this is a nice bit of honesty that isn’t really required by the ANSI run-time test. So, thanks Olight for this bit of transparency.

The Olight S1A Baton utilizes the familiar Olight UI with electronic side switch. A press-hold is required to change modes, and will continue in ascending order at two second edit: half-second Facepalm intervals, starting over once it reaches the highest mode. Turbo mode is only available if you use a Li-Ion 14500. Otherwise, the light will only ascend to High mode before it starts the cycle again at low. Moon is not part of the cycle. It can only be reached by a press-hold from off. Strobe is reached by a triple-press from either on or off. The light has mode memory and a short press from off will turn the light on in whichever mode it was in when turned off, including Moon mode, but not Strobe. If the light was operating in Strobe mode when turned off, it will return to the mode used prior to Strobe when turned back on. Clear as mud? Read the manual. It explains a bit more than I care to.

There are a couple of changes to the UI from what I’ve known with my older S20-L2. First, although my S20-L2 had an electronic lockout feature, I could find no such feature in the UI of the S1A. So, the only form of lockout available for the S1A is to loosen the tail-cap a bit to break connection (the threads are anodized). I would have liked to have that electronic lockout, but honestly, I rarely used it with my S20-L2, so I won’t really miss it too much. My older S20-L2 also had a plastic button which was translucent and had an indicator LED under it. The button on the S1A is soft, opaque black rubber. There is no indicator LED. The soft rubber button takes a slightly more decisive press than the plastic button on my S20-L2, making it a little harder to accidentally activate the S1A by bumping the button. That’s good enough for me.

Second, the UI has a new feature – shut down timers! With the light on, a double-tap will set the timer. There are two timers to choose from – 3 minutes and 9 minutes. After the double-tap, the S1A will blink out one blink for a 3 minute timer or two blinks to indicate a 9 minute timer. To change the duration, double-tap again after the blink(s) occur. The light will then blink (once or twice) to indicate the new setting. After the time limit is reached, the light will shut down. The timer isn’t persistent. It must be activated again for each intended use.

As mentioned, the light comes pre-loaded with an Olight branded 1.5V Lithium Primary. The light works well enough with that cell, except that it is restricted from utilizing Turbo mode. It will only go to High. In order to get Turbo mode, you must use a 14500 Li-Ion rechargeable cell. Unfortunately, the S1A will not work with flat top cells, only button top. I only have Efest Purple flat top cells in the 14500 size, so I was unable to test the S1A’s functionality with a Li-Ion cell. In trying to get a Lithium rechargeable cell to work for testing, I loaded a Lithium-Iron-Phoshate or LiFePO4 cell. That’s when I discovered that there is apparently a gap in the driver’s voltage range. I’m assuming the driver has low voltage protection for Li-Ion cells. With a LiFePO4 cell installed, if I double-tap, or press-hold to get to Turbo, it will in fact reach Turbo, but will step down to Medium almost immediately. If I put the LiFePO4 cell in my Nitecore I4 charger, it will overcharge enough to get Turbo for several seconds, but it still steps down shortly. After the step-down, a press-hold will still cycle back up to the higher modes. In fairness, the documentation and packaging don’t claim any LiFePO4 support. I was just trying to get Turbo to work, so I could test it.

After trying to get Turbo working with the LiFePO4 cell, I decided to attempt adding a button to the Efest Purple 14500. The S1A has a black plastic washer over the bottom of the driver, with a small hole through which the button top of the cell makes contact with a metal bump, instead of a driver-side spring. I was going to use a magnet as a temporary button top, but didn’t have a magnet small enough to get past the washer to make contact with the bump on the driver, so I had to solder. It took me a few minutes to solder a tiny piece of copper onto the top of the cell. I didn’t get it perfectly centered, but it works in the light, so I now get to use Turbo mode! Yay! The only reason I can think of for this design to make sense is that it would function as a ‘mechanical’ reverse-polarity protection for the driver. So, that makes it a feature, not a bug!

Beam profile is a subject I don’t know much about. I can see what looks good to me, but I can’t express very well in words what I might change or improve. I’m really just not picky enough with beam shape, hot-spot size, etc. But, I will try to describe what I see the best that I can. The Olight S1A Baton utilizes a TIR lens instead of a typical reflector. The hot-spot isn’t very tight. I’ve said recently that I like a balanced beam size/shape in-between the classic roles of throw and flood. The S1A gives me that. The hot-spot is a bit wide, but it’s even in brightness and tint. Speaking of tint, I must confess this is another area where I’m just not discerning enough. As far as I’m concerned, this S1A puts out a plain white light. It doesn’t look blue, green, yellow, or rosy. If I had to guess, I’d say color temperature is on the cooler side of Neutral white, like a 3 bin. Although this is a Cree XM-L2 emitter, I don’t detect any Cree Rainbow effect either. Perhaps that’s because of the TIR? Back to beam shape, though. The corona around the hot-spot is obviously not perfectly round. It has a squarish shape to it. It’s not very noticeable unless you begin to turn it a bit while shining at near surfaces. By near, I mean just a few feet. Even shining from my desktop to the ceiling, it isn’t really noticeable to me, and I’m looking for it. But, that’s mostly because the corona isn’t very bright at all by that distance. Most of the light is in the somewhat wide hot-spot. At a couple feet from a white wall or ceiling, the hot-spot seems to fade fairly evenly into the corona, which just isn’t perfectly round.

Now, for those who have used Olight products before, it is obvious that it’s going to tail-stand perfectly. The tail-cap has no button, so it’s just flat on the end. Additionally, the light feels almost weighted, although it isn’t really, unless you count the tail-magnet as a weight. It is very stable, and even with a little-more-than-a-little bump, it won’t fall over, but will wobble back into a straight standing position. Since the top mode is only 600lm, we know that the XM-L2 is very under-powered. So, it shouldn’t be surprising that it doesn’t overheat in tail-standing while on. In fact, the head will begin to get warm a few seconds after being turned on in Turbo mode, and the whole body will be very warm if left tail-standing in Turbo for a few minutes. But, it never gets too hot, and it has a timed step-down from 600lm to 300lm at 60 seconds anyway, according to the specs, so the heat production should drop at that point and never reach a critical temperature. I wouldn’t be afraid to leave it unattended in a room, tail-standing, during a power outage or whatever.

In conclusion, the Olight S1A Baton is not much different in form or function from other Olight Baton products of the past. They’ve added some new shut-down timers in the UI and a reverse-polarity protection design for the driver, and updated the look just a little, but they removed the electronic lock-out. The light looks and feels high quality to me. I like the Olight UI. I like the aesthetic design of the Baton series. I like that the S1A can reach a regulated 600lm output in Turbo and that it also includes a sub-lumen Moon mode. I like that it can utilize several different cell chemistries and voltages. I wish there was a way for them to cover the LiFePO4 gap, but I fear that would require elimination of LVP for Li-Ion cells. All-in-all, I think I’m going to like the S1A. It’s definitely going to be my new EDC, a position that has been vacant since I broke my S20-L2 trying to see what was inside. (It’s fixable, I just haven’t done it yet)

Have I missed anything? Tell me in the comments. Thanks for reading! I know it was long, but hopefully worth it! Oh, by the way, sorry for lack of beam shots. My phone’s camera is all I have for taking pictures, and unfortunately is no good at all for very low light conditions like beam shots. I did try, but they didn’t turn out to be useful for anything that beam shots are supposed to be useful for. Tired

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Edited by: DavidEF on 07/31/2016 - 07:52
DavidEF
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Reserved.

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djozz
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Thanks David for your informative version of the review. Smile

Lydia contacted me too but later decided that the light could not be sent to The Netherlands (obviously, The Netherlands are a remote island group battered by gails for 10 months a year, postal services are maintained by rowing boat)

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Super review, I liked it even without beamshots. I’m pretty vain so I like the blue accents but that hold to change modes is pretty irritating (like my old school Led Lender).

hank
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I also was given one for review.

I hit an oddity somehow, just once so far. I’d put it into the longer of the two automatic-time-off options, had the light in its bright (not turbo) mode with a li-ion cell, waited to see it go off.

It went off as it should — and then nothing I could do with the button would wake it up after that.

When I removed the tailcap briefly, that cancelled the problem.

Trying to get it to repeat, haven’t yet.

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Interesting to see these get reviewed so quickly. I was contacted as well, but given the sort of turn around others are giving on the reviews I think I may have put them off by saying I’d probably take a couple weeks due to the value I place on consistent operation for my edc lights; though if they did send it I don’t expect it to arrive anytime soon unless they used some kind of expedited shipping, normal mail sent to Canada is excruciatingly slow, so hopefully this isn’t the case.

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Nice review!
Well written and clear!

Just 1 question, are you sure of takes 2 seconds to go to the next mode? 2 sec is looking and feels like 4 (lol when telling somebody to press tgr power button on a PC to turn it off when frozen I used to say, “just press it till you feel like its 10 seconds” or else chances are too short of a press was given.)

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hank wrote:
I also was given one for review.

I hit an oddity somehow, just once so far. I’d put it into the longer of the two automatic-time-off options, had the light in its bright (not turbo) mode with a li-ion cell, waited to see it go off.

It went off as it should — and then nothing I could do with the button would wake it up after that.

When I removed the tailcap briefly, that cancelled the problem.

Trying to get it to repeat, haven’t yet.


Interesting. I have to admit that I only tried the 3 minute timer, and it didn’t have any glitch like that. But, I’ve only tested it once. Let us know if you find it happens again.

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LightSeeker wrote:
Interesting to see these get reviewed so quickly. I was contacted as well, but given the sort of turn around others are giving on the reviews I think I may have put them off by saying I’d probably take a couple weeks due to the value I place on consistent operation for my edc lights; though if they did send it I don’t expect it to arrive anytime soon unless they used some kind of expedited shipping, normal mail sent to Canada is excruciatingly slow, so hopefully this isn’t the case.

Mine was shipped with Two-Day shipping. I was surprised that they did that.

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The Miller wrote:
Nice review!
Well written and clear!

Just 1 question, are you sure of takes 2 seconds to go to the next mode? 2 sec is looking and feels like 4 (lol when telling somebody to press tgr power button on a PC to turn it off when frozen I used to say, “just press it till you feel like its 10 seconds” or else chances are too short of a press was given.)


I’m sorry. I was trying to get the review done, and I must’ve put that in there from memory of my S20-L2. In fact, the light cycles through the modes rather quickly while holding the button. About half a second between each mode! Facepalm

Edit: Okay, I fixed it in the OP. Thanks The Miller for asking the question!

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hank
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Quote:
Interesting to see these get reviewed so quickly

Yeah, David’s thread here is the third review thread for this new light (not counting my posting in comments)
So that’s four of us at BLF who got them free to review, that I know of..

And as noted, there’s at least one at CPF, and multiple similar reviews in the last few days at other sites.

I told them I’d be taking time with the light to see how it held up.
Since there are three threads already I’m going to play the cuckoo bird (and lay my eggs in others’ nests).

I’ve tried to put Xrefs in each thread to the others on the same subject, figuring we are effectively doing a group review here.
‘‘Cause I like what I see BLF developing — a reputation for tear-it-down-and-make-it better ideas.

This ain’t the place for Amazon-type “five star thank you for the free stuff”

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Five Smile

Planning on doing quite a bit of comparing against several other AA/14500 lights. Lots of charging and measuring to be done.

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The one I have does not light up at all when I try putting in an EVVA protected 800 mAh cell (fully charged). This cell has a button that barely sticks up past the shrinkwrap, I’m guessing it’s not tall enough to contact.

EDIT, on trying again, screwing the tailcap down a bit more forcefully, the light does light up.
Not that I’m sure this is a good idea, I hope the driver is not getting too much pressure.
But we’ll see.
END EDIT

It’s already a fairly long cell — sticks out of the battery tube a ways and resists having the tailcap screwed down all the way — so I don’t have the space to stick a little magnet on it to see if that’s the problem, and the risk of shorting it would be too high, since I haven’t figured out a way to get the head off the battery tube either, so I’m just peering down inside.

Protected XTAR 800 mAh cells do make contact (and aren’t quite as long, sit almost flush with the end of the battery tube before the tailcap goes on, and the button does stick up further)

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I find the output to be very lacking for the size. I don’t think TIR makes sense for anything beyond the S1 (16340) size. This light needs an SMO reflector and probably XP-L HI to be up-to-par with 2016 standards of output.

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bugsy wrote:
I find the output to be very lacking for the size. I don’t think TIR makes sense for anything beyond the S1 (16340) size. This light needs an SMO reflector and probably XP-L HI to be up-to-par with 2016 standards of output.

Umm… 16340 and 14500 cells are generally around the same mAH ratings. 16340 is shorter in length and fatter diameter than 14500. Overall, the 14500 takes up just a tiny bit more nominal area. To me, I’d classify them nearly the same in size overall, even though that might seem counter-intuitive to some people. For run-time to be reasonable, I think where Olight has it regulated to is great for a standard retail light. I see lights at Wal-Mart and Lowe’s that are HUGE in comparison to have a similar output level to this very tiny Olight S1A Baton.

Also, with the super-compact build of this light, there just isn’t enough thermal mass to make it safe for use at much higher power levels. I don’t have a huge collection of lights, so my experience is very limited. With that in mind, I can honestly say this is the most compact built light of any kind I’ve ever seen. The whole light doesn’t look much bigger than a 18650 cell. Official Dimensions are 21mm x 79.5mm. Where would the heat go if they cranked it up? If you look at the Cree PCT, you see that the XM-L2 U3 is capable of a little over 600lm at less than 1.3A current. The whole body of the S1A gets very warm at that level. Where would the extra heat go if they even pushed it to just 2.0A current? That is still only 66% of the max current rating of the emitter, but it is over 50% higher current than where this light is regulated now. It would be too hot to hold very quickly. Olight would have to make it step down in an unreasonably short time in order to not overheat and be a danger. That high of a Turbo mode would be useless, because it couldn’t be operated for very long at all safely.

Now, considering my huge lack of experience with flashlights, there’s a good chance that I’m very wrong. Please tell me how much more power you think the S1A could handle without being a danger and without requiring an unreasonably quick thermal step down. And, if you’re not talking about upping the current, but just changing to XP-L HI (and SMO reflector) to bring about higher output – you should really look at the PCT. The XP-L HI has lower overall output than the XM-L2 at the same current level.

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Good review thread, David.
Especially valuable with all of the constructive comment submissions.
Thanks BLF!

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DavidEF wrote:
Overall, the 14500 takes up just a tiny bit more nominal area. To me, I’d classify them nearly the same in size overall, even though that might seem counter-intuitive to some people. For run-time to be reasonable, I think where Olight has it regulated to is great for a standard retail light. I see lights at Wal-Mart and Lowe’s that are HUGE in comparison to have a similar output level to this very tiny Olight S1A Baton.

Now, considering my huge lack of experience with flashlights, there’s a good chance that I’m very wrong. Please tell me how much more power you think the S1A could handle without being a danger and without requiring an unreasonably quick thermal step down. And, if you’re not talking about upping the current, but just changing to XP-L HI (and SMO reflector) to bring about higher output – you should really look at the PCT. The XP-L HI has lower overall output than the XM-L2 at the same current level.

The 14500 is about 29% more volume than 16340, but that doesn’t tell the whole story as it feels much bigger because of the increased length in my opinion.

In terms of output, I was referring to usability with lux opposed to lumens. The SMO reflector and XP-L HI would be drastically improved compared to this XM-L2 with TIR in terms of usability at anything above like 10 ft while maintaining the same current. You could even reduce the current and the XP-L HI would still be much higher lux. It’s not all about lumens.

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Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.

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bugsy wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Overall, the 14500 takes up just a tiny bit more nominal area. To me, I’d classify them nearly the same in size overall, even though that might seem counter-intuitive to some people. For run-time to be reasonable, I think where Olight has it regulated to is great for a standard retail light. I see lights at Wal-Mart and Lowe’s that are HUGE in comparison to have a similar output level to this very tiny Olight S1A Baton.

Now, considering my huge lack of experience with flashlights, there’s a good chance that I’m very wrong. Please tell me how much more power you think the S1A could handle without being a danger and without requiring an unreasonably quick thermal step down. And, if you’re not talking about upping the current, but just changing to XP-L HI (and SMO reflector) to bring about higher output – you should really look at the PCT. The XP-L HI has lower overall output than the XM-L2 at the same current level.

The 14500 is about 29% more volume than 16340, but that doesn’t tell the whole story as it feels much bigger because of the increased length in my opinion.

In terms of output, I was referring to usability with lux opposed to lumens. The SMO reflector and XP-L HI would be drastically improved compared to this XM-L2 with TIR in terms of usability at anything above like 10 ft while maintaining the same current. You could even reduce the current and the XP-L HI would still be much higher lux. It’s not all about lumens.

Okay, I misunderstood what you were saying. Yes, if you’re looking for anything even slightly resembling a thrower, you don’t want the Olight S1A Baton. On the other hand, if you’re looking for pure flood, you also don’t want the Olight S1A Baton. I like the S1A because it has a beam which resides in the middle between those two extremes. To me, that’s more useful for my purpose. Your mileage may vary.

As for the 14500, it looks bigger because it is both longer and skinnier than the 16340. So, the 14500 looks like a full cell, while the 16340 looks like a half cell. But, in calculating the nominal dimensions, it is only just over 12.5% larger in volume. If you look at the mAH ratings of some of the cells at Mountain Electronics (or any other site that has a variety of cells), you will find that they are close. Some of the higher rated 14500’s have more capacity than some of the 16340’s. But, some of the higher rated 16340’s have higher capacity than some of the 14500’s as well. The 18350 looks like it is just barely any bigger than the 16340, yet it is over 30% larger than the 16340 and almost 16% larger (by volume) than the 14500! My point is that the size difference looks like a lot more than it actually is. The 14500 is a small cell. It’s an optical illusion. Big Smile

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hank wrote:
Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.


Yeah, I broke my S20-L2 by taking it apart. It’s still yet to be fixed. Crying I won’t be taking this one apart any time soon. Silly

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hank wrote:
Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.


Well, i was contacted by Olight as well and im waiting for it to arrive, dont know if that will happen or not because most others already received the light. I already ordered some things for my first review of a light like a new tripod, a clamp with tripodmount for the light, LED bulbs for good lighting etc..

Im not that interested in cracking this thing up because im not a modder at all, all my lights are stock. Im sure many ppl here just want a review, beamshots etc. To see the guts of the light is interesting but in the end it doesnt matter to me. I appreciate it because sometimes it shows loose screwes or in case of the Astrolux S41 flaws with the screws, so i like it when somebody has the balls to open that thing because the chances are good that the light will be in a poor shape afterwards^^

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I’m guessing all the innards of this light are pressed in from the front, and then that blue-coated bezel ring is pressed — or screwed — down over the lens to hold it all in.
Because I don’t see another seam on the body anywhere that would separate the battery tube from the head. All one piece, plus the tailcap??

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hank wrote:
I’m guessing all the innards of this light are pressed in from the front, and then that blue-coated bezel ring is pressed — or screwed — down over the lens to hold it all in.
Because I don’t see another seam on the body anywhere that would separate the battery tube from the head. All one piece, plus the tailcap??

Well, like I said, I won’t be taking mine apart any time soon. But, I can speculate. It’s probably put together like other Batons of the past, my S20-L2 for instance. It was much as you say. The whole pill and reflector assembly was press fit in. The bezel un-screwed from the front, and the pill could be pressed out from the back with a rod of some type. I used a wooden dowel rod. The button is also press-fit into the side. There is a tiny tactile switch installed in the pill, and the plastic side button had a piece of silicone on the back of it to press against the switch. When I pushed the pill out, it hung up on the silicone part and ripped a piece of it off. Then, the part that remained isn’t long enough to press the switch any more. If you’re super careful pushing the pill out, you may be able to get it without damaging anything. Others have done it before. Some have even modded Batons before. So, it isn’t really that difficult unless you’re me. Silly

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bugsy
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You’re right about the volume, my math was wrong.

OrionLight
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Thanks for the nice informative review!

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About the assembly, my guesses are :
- either it’s a big S1 (most probably, given the same head length) and you can see how it’s put together here
- or it’s a small S2 (I don’t think, see head length difference) and it’s like this

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hank wrote:
Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.

Hank, that is my plan for next weekend. I hope I do not trash the light, but I gotta get a warmer emitter in there!

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mattlward wrote:
hank wrote:
Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.

Hank, that is my plan for next weekend. I hope I do not trash the light, but I gotta get a warmer emitter in there!


Oh Boy! Don’t let us down! Tell us all the juicy details, whether it’s nice or not!

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I’ve opened some pretty tight Olights with a sheet that exercise elastic in the palm of one hand, and jamming the bezel down and twisting with the other hand. You can lay on a surprising amount of torque that way, and not mark or dent the bezel.

Warming it up good in a ZipLok bag dunked in hot water doesn’t hurt either, if there’s any glue to soften – although I don’t recall any signs of glue in any of my Olights. They were just threaded, and tight.

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Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I’ve opened some pretty tight Olights with a sheet that exercise elastic in the palm of one hand, and jamming the bezel down and twisting with the other hand. You can lay on a surprising amount of torque that way, and not mark or dent the bezel.

Warming it up good in a ZipLok bag dunked in hot water doesn’t hurt either, if there’s any glue to soften – although I don’t recall any signs of glue in any of my Olights. They were just threaded, and tight.


Well no need to re-think things when the solution is a couple posts before yours (post #26) Smile
I’ve opened both S1 and S2, and there’s no twisting needed at all.

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Great review! Wouldn’t mind seeing some beam shots.

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