Tear Down (and upcoming mod) - Boruit RJ-02 Headlight (Pic Heavy)

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garrybunk
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Lightbringer wrote:
Tried it, comes off nice and easily. I’m quite surprised. Maybe I’m thinking of the non-switch endcap? Recall someone had to twist the crap out of it to get it off.

Non-switch end cap? You mean the end with the switch, right? That’s the one that’s tough to get off (on some samples at least).

Yeah, like I said, on one of my units the end cap (switch one) came off just pulling/twisting with my hand, the other took some brute force with a screwdriver. You can wedge a flat tip as a lever against the front body in two places, but for the backside you need to just drive it off like your using a chisel. What I did was hold the blade of the screwdriver in position against the inside edge of the cap (like you would position a chisel) and then smack the handle of the screwdriver against my workbench (holding the light in place against the screwdriver blade as I did so). Hope this makes sense; a picture would be worth a thousand words here! I at first tried wrapping a thick rubber band around the cap and twisting with pliers over the rubber band, but that just marred up the aluminum.

-Garry

Lightbringer
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MRsDNF wrote:
Put it all back together but no go. I wonder if the copper was added to fix this sort of problem as mine never had this piece in there.

Could probably just melt a bunch of solder onto that crescent to raise it slightly and make better contact.

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garrybunk wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Tried it, comes off nice and easily. I’m quite surprised. Maybe I’m thinking of the non-switch endcap? Recall someone had to twist the crap out of it to get it off.

Non-switch end cap? You mean the end with the switch, right? That’s the one that’s tough to get off (on some samples at least).

Yeh, had a bit of a “duuuuuh” moment there. Big Smile

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garrybunk
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Not sure what happened but my emitter no longer works. All I did was file down the emitter base (it’s slightly taller than the stock one), assemble the light, and turn it on – nothing. Driver works because a double-click turns the switch red. Emitter didn’t light with meter probes on diode check but then I knocked the dome off anyway. Oh well, everything I’ve been touching lately has been turning to crap anyway. Guess I’ll give it one more shot. (My spare XP-G3’s are reserved for my 2nd BT40S that I’ve also been destroying emitters on.)

-Garry

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Bugger. Good luck for the repair.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

ImA4Wheelr
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garrybunk wrote:
Not sure what happened but my emitter no longer works. All I did was file down the emitter base (it's slightly taller than the stock one), assemble the light, and turn it on - nothing. Driver works because a double-click turns the switch red. Emitter didn't light with meter probes on diode check but then I knocked the dome off anyway. Oh well, everything I've been touching lately has been turning to crap anyway. Guess I'll give it one more shot. (My spare XP-G3's are reserved for my 2nd BT40S that I've also been destroying emitters on.) -Garry

Bummer, your mods on page one are pretty cool. It appears you did some emitter trace work.  When I did the XM-L2 mod, I had a couple issues with shorts.  Had to reflow a couple times to fix.  The second time was fixed by removing excess solder.  You appear to have a good amount of solder under that emitter.  Check to make sure you don't have continuity between the center thermal pad and the LED power tabs on each side of it.  A good way to remove the excess solder is to heat up the emitter until it "floats" than slide a small piece of solder wick up against the emitter so that is slides just enough for the solder wick to touch the MCPCB pads.  The solder wick should draw out the excess solder.  I find putting a drop of flux on the solder wick helps greatly.

Like you, I had to reflow from the top side.  Didn't want to melt any plastic inside the light with my heat gun. 

 

Lightbringer wrote:
ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Swapping in a good XPL should about double your lumens over the stock generic Chinese emitter.  It will also make the lamp run cooler due to higher efficiency.  It will change your beam pattern though.  The stock emitter is large and gives a nice floody smooth beam.  The XPL is smaller and will narrow and take some of the smoothness out of the beam.

XM-L2, then. Same chip inside as the XP-L, only a wider area. Check first to make sure it fits the TIR.

Swapping in the XML requires a good amount of surgery.  Check out Post 6 if you decide you want to go that route.

garrybunk
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Well the 2nd emitter was working for a little while (was being the key word). Apparently I burned it up as it only dimly lights up now even if I connect a li-ion cell directly across the pads (a mostly discharged cell to test). I’m guessing the center pad didn’t connect and so it burned right up.

And now after screwing around with it in the body, the end board with the switch has broken away from the main board and I don’t know that I can even fix that.

So I guess I’ll try a heat gun to reflow on this board now that I don’t have much to lose. Can I use a heat gun blowing directly on the emitter dome? I’ve only ever used a heat gun from below.

At least I have the 2nd headlamp with its craptastic Chinese cool white emitter.

-Garry

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You can.  It can take it.  If you do it in the host, you should wedge the board so it isn't making full contact with the host.  Sorry to hear about your bad luck with this light.  It's an ackward one and really not a good design for modding.  Did you resister mod this one?

garrybunk
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I did not resistor mod it. The stock 1.25A +/- is fine by me for my intended use. I’m afraid of applying heat and knocking the dome off or having the other components fall off. I was going to say I’d work with the board out of the body (since it’s so easy to remove), but perhaps leaving it in the body forces you to only apply heat at the emitter area (my heat gun has a +/- 1 inch or larger end on it).

-Garry

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ImA4Wheelr, what tool did you use to remove the pressed on cap? it’s very tight.

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I carefully held the body in the vice with soft jaws and tapped the cap off with an aluminium drift. Yes they are very tight.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

bibihang
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MRsDNF wrote:
I carefully held the body in the vice with soft jaws and tapped the cap off with an aluminium drift. Yes they are very tight.

Thanks for the sharing man. After you put it together is the cap still able to fit tightly? Did you just hammer the cap back onto the light?
CRX
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Interesting light, thanks for the teardown Thumbs Up

ImA4Wheelr
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bibihang wrote:
MRsDNF wrote:
I carefully held the body in the vice with soft jaws and tapped the cap off with an aluminium drift. Yes they are very tight.
Thanks for the sharing man. After you put it together is the cap still able to fit tightly? Did you just hammer the cap back onto the light?

 

Sorry for missing the above question.  Thanks MRsDNF.  Not really recalling at the moment.  I think I did similar to MRsDNF, but used a wood dowel and hammer to knock off the cap.  It does go back on quite secure.  Pretty sure I used a piece of a 2x3 or 2x4 to smack it back in place.

MRsDNF
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The cap can also be pressed back on with the vice, Make sure the cap goes on straight though.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gastonpatagonico
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Hello, simple change of led, that had leftover from a convoy c8, a hpl-hi u63a, to part more difficult the re-flow led, only missing a new tir ……., greetings !!

bibihang
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Thanks for the tips guys. Smile

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You guys have this n00b curious about this cheapy head lamp to replace the purple-blue cheap ones I have from 15 years ago.

 

Have any of you considered sticking the assembly with end cap in the freezer and slightly warming up the friction-fit cap afterwards to help expand it relative to the cold tube? Might come off really easily and save you some damage. 

 

I'd buy one or two if the flash sale came back.

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y8s wrote:
I’d buy one or two if the flash sale came back.

Ask Fin17 for a coupon code?

See http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52547 .

I loaded up when I saw they were <10bux. Big Smile

Still, compared to the price of even an entry-level Skilhunt and such, 11bux is downright cheap. Waiting for it to drop a coupla bux might not be worth the ag. Buy it. Buy it now.

 

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Lightbringer wrote:
Waiting for it to drop a coupla bux might not be worth the ag. Buy it. Buy it now.

 

My wife is not fully employed. I'd rather save the 3 dollars. Maybe even the 11 dollars (for now) until she is. Let's all hope that she gets the full time position and out-earns me.

 

Plus there's no guarantee it/they would get here before we leave on our vacation (eclipse + yosemite) so I'm in no rush.

 

pinging Fin17 for a code might be the way to go. I'll need more 18650 cells too.

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$8.89 at Aliexp.
But if you need it quick, free shipping won’t help you much.
(long link?) Cash

Boruit

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2 DOGS wrote:
$8.89 at Aliexp. But if you need it quick, free shipping won’t help you much.

3wks seems about on par vs GB.

Had 2 packages due from GB, 1 came today. so still waiting for 1 last one (and the priciest, figures…). From July 11th and 13th or something like that, so yeah, about 3wks courtesy of Azerbaijan Air is about the norm.

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Go crazy… Big Smile

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