Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!

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Tom E
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I wired up the 22mm board from post #153 for testing - 2 long LED wires and a switch. created a new project called NarsilTriple, and created 7 mode sets, from 1 mode to 7 modes for supporting the triple PWM channels. I made the changes, in theory, to support the 3 output PWM channels like bistro_tripledown does, and updated all the uses of setting outputs for blinks, etc. to the new 3 channel setup.

For ramping, I cheated for now -- zeroed out the ramping table for the 7135 bank. Mainly I just need want to see if regular mode sets work with the new 3 PWM support. Just programmed the 85, gonna go try it now. Wish me luck!

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Tom E wrote:

I wired up the 22mm board from post #153 for testing – 2 long LED wires and a switch. created a new project called NarsilTriple, and created 7 mode sets, from 1 mode to 7 modes for supporting the triple PWM channels. I made the changes, in theory, to support the 3 output PWM channels like bistro_tripledown does, and updated all the uses of setting outputs for blinks, etc. to the new 3 channel setup.


For ramping, I cheated for now — zeroed out the ramping table for the 7135 bank. Mainly I just need want to see if regular mode sets work with the new 3 PWM support. Just programmed the 85, gonna go try it now. Wish me luck!

Good luck! Can’t wait to see this come to reality.

This would complete my goals for these drivers as a do anything FET based driver. Although I do think I would add another 22mm+ version with an LDO for the larger boards, plus finish up the 46mm version.

So basically it would handle any flashlight up to a 30mm driver, Clicky, e-switch or dual switch, regulated and FET modes, thermal regulation (on the clicky for now at least), zener for use in multi cell lights and LDO on the larger drivers.

I am quite happy with how these are turning out.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Tom E
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O-K, it basically works! smilelaughinginnocent

Wasn't bad - first time. Well actually, the first time it was flaky bad, looked over the code cleaned up some things, but mostly comments, naming, etc. Then went to dnld again, and dang -- it hit me! I downloaded the old Narsil, not NarsilTriple. I forgot to create a new BAT file to do the triple download... frown

So, I think what I proved;

  • no prob w/single 7135 PWM's and full (moon mode, partial, max at 0.35, etc.)
  • full bank for 2.8A definitely works
  • PWM for the FET and max works - did ramping and could get bout 3.5A max, and get a little less by backing off ramping a bit

 Didn't try PWM's on the bank yet because only one mode set uses it - the 7 mode group - easy to try though. Current mode sets are below. I roughly assume full single 7135 is about 10%, and the full bank of 8 7135's is 50%. This makes sense if you have about 1,500 lumens max on a full FET, and the bank of 7135's is about 750 lumens. I've have to gen'ing a ramping table for 3 channels. This might be some trial&error til I get one that looks good - need to test in a real light.

 

I totally disabled (commented out) the on-board LED support for now.

 

// 1 mode (max) max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set1[] = { 0}; // for single 7135

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet1[] ={ 0}; // for 7135 bank

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet1[] = { 255}; // FET only

 

// 2 modes (7135-FET) ~10% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set2[] = { 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet2[] ={ 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet2[] = { 0, 255};

 

// 3 modes (7135-7135s-max) ~10% ~50% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set3[] = { 255, 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet3[] ={ 0, 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet3[] = { 0, 0, 255};

 

// 4 modes (1.2-10-50-max) ~1.2% ~10% ~50% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set4[] = { 30, 255, 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet4[] ={ 0, 0, 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet4[] = { 0, 0, 0, 255};

 

// 5 modes (1.2-5-10-50-max) ~1.2% ~5% ~10% ~50% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set5[] = { 30, 120, 255, 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet5[] ={ 0, 0, 0, 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet5[] = { 0, 0, 0, 0, 255};

 

// 6 modes 0.8-2-5-10-50-max ~0.8% ~2% ~5% ~10% ~50% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set6[] = { 20, 110, 255, 255, 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet6[] ={ 0, 0, 0, 0, 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet6[] = { 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 255};

 

// 7 modes (0.5-2.5-5-10-25-50-max) ~0.5% ~2.5% ~5% ~10% ~25% ~50% max

PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set7[] = { 12, 63, 150, 255, 255, 0, 0};

PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet7[] ={ 0, 0, 0, 0, 120, 255, 0};

PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet7[] = { 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 255};

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Looks like the next thing to do is combine LVP and switch on Pin 7 to get the indicator LED back on Pin 2

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Hhmm.. I know Mike ?? did that, or something similar, but didn't look into it in detail. Thought he mentioned it required his board design? Do you know if anyone did this on one of our std boards? I can see where possibly there's no conflict - only do a A-D conversion to read the voltage when the switch isn't pressed, or hasn't been pressed for a while - some sort of logic like that, I'd think. Then maybe just sharing the switch with the R1/R2 pair could electrically be done?

Another option is getting rid of R1/R2 and using the internal ref, ala Dr.Jones. Or, using the Atmel dev kit, then you can use pin #1 as an I/O pin -- some options...

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MikeC did it, I want to say he combined LVP, e-switch, and OTC for dual-switch all on one pin. It “required” his board to work, but I’m sure you could air-wire it to test firmware if you were motivated. All it would really take is soldering your switch+ directory to the tail of R1 or R2

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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May be possible. Don't think he was 100% with it all though. Recall he posted his code/boards, but don't think it was fully stable yet. Would hate to get false low voltage warnings... Though, that's exactly what happened to me last night, using a flat top WindyFire cell in my modded H15 last night - it seemed to work at first, then went totally flaky, and batt check was working but showing low voltage levels. Turned out it worked fine when I simply added a solder blob to the top of the cell...

Worth look'n it to though, for sure...

Edit: even an intermittent false warning should be tolerable since we need several low readings in a row to trigger a drop.

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Very nice, glad to see this progressing!

Far as the pins go, if the LVP could be moved to the internal reference and R1/R2 removed that would be my preference for sure. That would free up a significant amount of space on the boards on top of the free pin. Plus it sounds simpler to me then trying to combine a bunch of functions into a single pin.

Not to mention it would remove issues with low tolerance components used when china starts selling drivers based on these layouts (the triple channel general layout, not necessarily The Avenger drivers), it is only a matter of time based on past dealings.

That said I have no clue what the coding involved in either change would be.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

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Yea, I do agree - better bang out of using the internal 1.1V ref, plus reducing parasitic drain even further. It's been briefly discussed. I know DrJones uses it, so it's possible for sure, and don't think he said much about it being a PIA or anything... I just don't know where to start to try to implement it. I'll have to do some research on it.

I also tested the 7 mode grouping and confirmed PWM's are working on the bank of 7135's. So the firmware is 100% functioning, just not using the bank of 7135's in ramping yet.

Defining modes though in percentage of output is highly dependent on the light mod/configuration. Some lights have a max FET amps of 3.5A, others will have 20A, and everything in-between. So 2.8A may be 80% or may be 20%. Mode sets should really be tailored accordingly, if you want consistency from light to light. Ramping has a little more tolerance, but should still be tweaked for exaggerated cases. I'm using Narsil in a MtnE SRK 7135 driver, and it uses 380 mA 7135's, so the standard Narsil ramping table has a couple OFF levels in the transition from single 7135 to the bank of 7135's because 380's can't be run at the lower PWM settings, like 350's can be. If you like a low moon, should always use a 350 mA 7135 - I've been seeing even a PWM value of 1 works with the new design drivers, but suspect it will go OFF when the cell gets low.

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Now I need to find an E-switch light with which to try one of these in…

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Now I need to find an E-switch light with which to try one of these in…

O-L showed a way to convert the Mag-Lite switch to an e-switch. It could probably be done with any side-switch light. Basically just bypass the switch for power, connect it instead to the e-switch pads on the new driver you install, and disable the latching part of the clicky mechanism. In case you don’t have access to an e-switch light you’re ready to mod, maybe you have a side-clicky you’re less fond of. Innocent

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Texas_Ace
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DavidEF wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Now I need to find an E-switch light with which to try one of these in…
O-L showed a way to convert the Mag-Lite switch to an e-switch. It could probably be done with any side-switch light. Basically just bypass the switch for power, connect it instead to the e-switch pads on the new driver you install, and disable the latching part of the clicky mechanism. In case you don’t have access to an e-switch light you’re ready to mod, maybe you have a side-clicky you’re less fond of. Innocent

Yeah, I figured it would not be hard to use any side switch but I don’t really own any. I have nothing against them, just never seem to find one that peaks my interest enough to cause me to buy one over a clicky version of the same thing.

I have some maglights but lack of heat sinks for them means they still use the stock incan bulbs and sit at the bottom of the box of “to be modded” lights.

The only side switch lights I have at the moment are SRK style lights, L6, S70, NE01, DO1 and thats it that I can remember unless something is hiding in my box of spare lights.

Another reason for my lack of side switch lights is they are generally pricier then clicky and harder to mod. I actually won a U21 for $35 on ebay a few days ago but from the little I saw of the driver it doesn’t appear to be at all mod friendly, plus it needs a boost driver, so most likely I will leave it stock unless I can get a resistor mod to work.

There has also been little in the way of good options for hardware and firmware for e-switches till recently as well.

I am sure I will correct my lack of e-switch lights before long, just a matter of finding one that is cheap, interesting and worth buying. Or I might make up a driver for the DO1 and try it on that.

A JM35 is something I was considering while they are $22 at banggood but it once again needs a boost driver and with that shallow reflector I don’t think it would take well to a 3v emitter.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Tom E
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Say wut?? I luv my U21, fully modded running Narsil, using the RED LED under the button cover as a locator LED, and luv the dragon eye pattern.

Dang! If I would have seen that eBay listing, you would have had some bidding competition smile

I have a dedomed XPL V6 0D in it, does about 6 amps, 1,700 lumens, 240 kcd. Much better than the stock XHP35 HI. The Liitakola 26650 is made for it.

It's my favorite light at the moment. Was think'n - $65 is steep to pay for a host, otherwise I'd invest in a few, mod them, sell them... frown

The lack of a tail switch saves in length of the light big time. Has great heat sinking built in, no need to mod that. Perfect large pocket thrower.

 

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Yeah, the U21 was the first side switch to catch my eye in awhile which is why I nabbed that one, I figured for that price I could hardly go wrong. That said I like the idea of the XHP35 in it and if I can resistor mod the driver I think that would be the best option for that light.

The JM35 is a host I would get if it didn’t need a boost driver, it looks kinda silly but the price is right. With an XP-L I just don’t think it would have a worthwhile beam pattern for the size.

There are just not that many worthwhile side clicky hosts out there that I have seen.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

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I am also looking for a good, easy to mod side switch 18650 host.

Just found out about Convoy L4, it uses a 23.5mm driver and 20mm MCPCB.

http://flashlightreviews.xyz/convoy-l4/

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Flashlight-driver-Flashlight-cir...

Unfortunately the coupon from m4dm4x expired

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Ohhh, I got a ton of e-switch lights, turned hosts. Can't buy any hosts per say, but mostly you don't want to anyway - on most you need the stock driver as a contact board and switch mount. My favorite budget host is hard to find now - the ZY-T11 clones, I paid like $9-$11 for: nice compact size, throwy wide head/reflector - perfect 18650 EDC for some throw.

The SkilHunt H15 turned out real nice - like that the switch is on top, w/LED using as a locator LED, etc. The H15 and the U21 are the two lights I either have on me, or are close by.

Bunch of ones that worked out great w/mods:

  • Yezl Y3 - dual switch, SS bezel, GearBest quality problems, but outstanding HD2010 type light, built/sold a bunch of these
  • ZY-T11 clones - classic 18650 EDC
  • SupFire L5 (new one MtnE carries - an F13, but better, quality e-switch)
  • SupFire M2-Z (MtnE again, cheap, C8 size/performance)
  • UranusFire C818 (quality light, bit bulky though, dual switch)
  • ThorFire JM07 (again another F13 killer - best quality, got a few cheap on a Amazon ThorFire deal a while back)
  • Lumintop SD10 - wow! high amps from the TF 32650 with protection circuit removed, again great indicator LED feature under the switch
  • Lots of Crelant models w/dual switch
  • SolarStorm/FandyFire K2 - great heat sinking, compact 26650, SS bezel, etc.
  • several in the e-switch 18650 tube light category (UltraFire, etc.)
  • SolarStorm SC01/SC02/SC03 - 16340, 14500, 18650
  • COURUI D01

I know I'm forgetting a few more...

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I've modded the Convoy L4 - nice C8 size/quality, but wayyy too long.

The easiest to mod hosts are the SupFire M2-Z and L6 L5 (ooops!), because they got driver retainer rings, nice SRK style mounted switch in the side - easy to wire up. No need to piggyback a driver in. Might be more like that, if you have the right size driver. My favorite easiest is the L6 right now.

Convoy L4 with a LEGO fit SS bezel:

 L4 driver mod:

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New Supfire L5 also has a driver retainer ring.

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Got the 17mm drivers today - they took longer, different panel. Wow, sure looks packed in there. Will take a closer look - should work well for the piggyback e-switch setups. Need to work on the ramping table...

Discussed the issue of dropping R1/R2 to my EE buddy at work, and using the ref voltage. He's not familiar much with the Atmels, uses the PIC's mostly, but said that is entirely possible to do, couple different ways in fact, depending on what the Atmel has.

He's still adamant that we pursue optical programming/dnld of the drivers. He believes the LED can be used to read light as well as transmit it, and we could use it to both set config settings, and do a full download from a cell phone. Other lights on the market do this, but not sure they are using the primary LED for this.

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Tom E wrote:

Got the 17mm drivers today – they took longer, different panel. Wow, sure looks packed in there. Will take a closer look – should work well for the piggyback e-switch setups. Need to work on the ramping table…


Discussed the issue of dropping R1/R2 to my EE buddy at work, and using the ref voltage. He’s not familiar much with the Atmels, uses the PIC’s mostly, but said that is entirely possible to do, couple different ways in fact, depending on what the Atmel has.


He’s still adamant that we pursue optical programming/dnld of the drivers. He believes the LED can be used to read light as well as transmit it, and we could use it to both set config settings, and do a full download from a cell phone. Other lights on the market do this, but not sure they are using the primary LED for this.

Yeah, the 17mm are packed super tight, thats why using the internal reference would be great, make it a lot easier to fit things on.

An optical programming setup would be super cool indeed, kinda like using a speaker as a microphone I suppose.

An issue with that is code space, would there be room for this in the firmware?

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Tom E
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Code space is one sure concern, but there's the small detail of the R&D and getting it to work without a ton of parts, etc., plus the app development to support it. Not for the faint of heart...

I ordered the 17's in 2 oz and the thin size, figuring it's better for piggybacking.

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Tom E wrote:

Code space is one sure concern, but there’s the small detail of the R&D and getting it to work without a ton of parts, etc., plus the app development to support it. Not for the faint of heart…


I ordered the 17’s in 2 oz and the thin size, figuring it’s better for piggybacking.

Good idea, that would make piggybacking easier indeed, if you got some 0603 components it would cut space a little more as well.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Tom E
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I got triple channel ramping working pretty well, least it looks ok. I installed the 22mm driver installed in a SupFire M2-Z for testing, XPL/copper. I used this levelcalc command:

level_calc.py 3 150 7135 3 0.3 150 7135 3 0.3 800 FET 1 1 1500

This generates 3 150 entry PWM tables. It takes about 2.4 secs to ramp thru the table. 1st 65 entries are for the one 7135, then next 62 are for the 7135 bank, then last 23 are for the FET.

I'd like to see more entries in the lower range, less in the high range though. Gotta do more testing. Would also be good to see it in a multi-LED light. For Narsil double channel, one ramping table seemed to work well across single and multi-LED lights. Might be one glitch about in the middle - slight pause, maybe, hard to tell... I've found lowering the last # (1500) gets more entries in the low range, so may try 1200 or so.

 

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Found some good info from Halo... on doing VCC monitoring without needing R1/R2 here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/918014#comment-918014 (post #731 in 25/45/86 thread)

and here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/910199#comment-910199 (post #790 in flashlight firmware repository thread)

 

Wish Halo... was still around - not seen online for 2 weeks, but this looks like pretty good stuff. He's a treendous source of knowledge on the ATMEL parts, an area I'm particularly weak in.

DrJones mentions he uses it here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/921942#comment-921942, in 25/45/85 thread, but no info provided on how to do it.

 

Want to try some more tweaking on ramping, then I could post NarsilTriple as-is, but Want to mod it to what I described before - have ramping and mode sets all integrated together in in UI state. Still feel this is the best way to go. Think it will save code space, which I will probably need if I can get non R1/R2 VCC reading working, then I'll have another I/O pin available for the indicator LED.

 

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Nice work, I also noticed that bistro tripledown works well in both single and multiemitter lights as a whole with only minor changes needed to the FET portion of the ramping table from what I have seen. Although frankly I am not picky enough to care and just use it as is, it is hardly noticeable anyways and since it doesn’t use ramping actively like narsil it is not an issue.

Having the ramping and modes combined would be sweet. I want to try the ramping, it sounds very interesting but I know that I will most likely just revert to 3-5 set modes as I find this the most useful overall.

If you can get the LVP with the internal reference worked out, it is possible that TK could copy this and add it to the Tripledown firmware. If so I could redesign the drivers without the R1/R2 and instead have pads for future options. Such as the indicator LED, or use the space for an LDO.

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

Tom E
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Yea, that's what I was thinking. She can borrow code from me for a change - I'm always borrowing her code, so I owe her smile. I could also make the mods to bistro-tripledown, doesn't matter much. I use her same header structure as well, but I keep them local with the source code/project instead of in one common shared place.

May need some time though - gonna lose evening/morn access soon to be office/shop with my mother-n-law and aunt coming this weekend for a couple weeks.

Texas_Ace
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Tom E wrote:

Yea, that’s what I was thinking. She can borrow code from me for a change – I’m always borrowing her code, so I owe her smile. I could also make the mods to bistro-tripledown, doesn’t matter much. I use her same header structure as well, but I keep them local with the source code/project instead of in one common shared place.


May need some time though – gonna lose evening/morn access soon to be office/shop with my mother-n-law and aunt coming this weekend for a couple weeks.

No problem, take your time. You have been going at this for quite some time now, last thing you need is to get burnt out entirely! lol

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

RotorHead64
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This is some really cool stuff going on in here guys! Keep up the good work and thanks sharing.

I'm wondering if there's any way that the programming could be altered to where the first mode could be full 7135 power with access to turbo/full FET by a quick double tap?

In bistro I like reverse mode order hi-low, 4 normal modes, moonlight enabled with no memory. Tactically it's great but for normal work I'd rather it come on in a regulated 3amp mode. With quick access to turbo. I'm mainly talking about use in triples and quads.  

Tom E
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RotorHead64 wrote:

I'm wondering if there's any way that the programming could be altered to where the first mode could be full 7135 power with access to turbo/full FET by a quick double tap?

In bistro I like reverse mode order hi-low, 4 normal modes, moonlight enabled with no memory. Tactically it's great but for normal work I'd rather it come on in a regulated 3amp mode. With quick access to turbo. I'm mainly talking about use in triples and quads.  

Narsil already does that, or equivalent in both operating modes.

If you are in ramping, double tap goes to max/full FET -- that's how it works now on FET+1 drivers.

In mode set mode, it's easy - just configure for 2 modes: max 7135, and max FET. I can't recall exactly how I configured 2 modes - whether for mode #1 I used the single 7135 or bank of 7135's, but easy to change however you like, or add a new mode set -- simply really. Could make mode #1 both 7135 channels at max: single and the bank.

 

RotorHead64
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Awesome! I don't have any experience with Narsil but from what I've read it's great. I'm actually doing a yezl y3 mod right now and wish I had Narsil to try out with it.

So with a clicky, if you could make it come on at 100% 7135's no PWM , then ramp down to moon with half press, double tap anywhere in between to full turbo? If that's how it'll work that's awesome! 

I'm sure I'm not right about that but am I close?

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