Review of DP50V5A & DPS3012 bench top power supply modules, best bang for the buck around!

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Texas_Ace
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For the price the DPS series can not be beat, naturally for more money there are better options.

I will say that while I like the 5015 unless you need the 50V and 15A capability it does have more ripple voltage then my older 3012 and my 5A version has basically zero ripple (around 10mv IIRC). For most things 30v and 12A is more then enough, heck the 30V 5A version is even more compact and enough for a lot of things, although not enough to really test LED’s now days.

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Here is the Design for the Acrylic case I made in case anyone wants to make one. It is cut out with a laser cutter from standard hardware store .08” acrylic sheet (“plexiglass”). Thicker acrylic would be stronger but costs a lot more and is much harder to find.

Proper acrylic glue will be stronger and look better but hot glue or super glue works just fine as well.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982235

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Zanders
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Which power supply is best to use with DSP5015?
AC 110V/220V TO DC48V 8.3A 400W Regulated Transformer Power Supply For LED Strip or
AC 110V/220V TO DC 48V 400W 8.3A Single Output Regulated Switching Power Supply

It´s almost the same price.

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Got a link to them? They sounds like the same thing.

Although either should work, all that matters is that you get a DC voltage out and a 48V output is a great number, you rarely need those last few volts.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

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Zanders
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Got a link to them? They sounds like the same thing.

Although either should work, all that matters is that you get a DC voltage out and a 48V output is a great number, you rarely need those last few volts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222273922467?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPage...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V-TO-DC48V-8-3A-400W-Regulated-Transf...

Here is some explanation, but I really don´t know which one is the best for the DSP5015. More heat but cleaner current with transformer, less efficient.

http://www.mastechpowersupplies.com/linear-power-supply-vs-switching-pow...

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I am going to go out on a limb and say that they are both the same and the translation is the thing that is different.

Either will work fine for what you want though, so just go with whatever seller you feel more comfortable with.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

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Zanders wrote:
Here is some explanation, but I really don´t know which one is the best for the DSP5015. More heat but cleaner current with transformer, less efficient.

The two you link to is both switch mode supplies.
Old style transformer based supplied will usual last considerable longer than cheap smps, they have less efficiency and weights a lot.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

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Ok, I pick one of them and hope for the best. Thanks!

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I used the MeanWell (I got the 48V, maybe ~7A iirc) that the supplier of the DPS5015 recommended, works perfectly and seems of very good quality for an aliexpress item.

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I was testing some lights today and figured I would mention this to those that have one of these or want to see the kind of things they can be useful for (they also work great for diy colloidal silver among other things as well).

I use a current shunt for testing tailcap currents. I have tried the clamp meter and while the readings are good I find it a pain to use and you still have to use a shunt anyways in order for it to work.

I figure cut out the middle man, I find using the shunt directly to measure current to be far simpler and easier with only 2 hands.

A shunt works very simply, it is simply a very low ohm resistor. When you pass a current through it there will be a voltage drop according to ohms law. If you measure this voltage drop you can then figure out the current. This is the same thing that happens inside your multimeter, just on a much smaller scale.

You can just connect your DMM to the shunt directly but it will be impossible to get consistent readings, so soldering some “signal wires” to the shunt is much better and easier.

The issues for most is figuring out how to make/buy a shunt for what we need. It turns out it is really VERY simple. Just got to home depot and buy yourself 6 inches of 14 gauge solid core wire, generally used for household wiring. The guy just gave it to me for free since it was so small.

This is your shunt, the only thing you need to figure out now is how far apart to connect your signal wires in order to get a voltage drop that equals 1mv per amp.

In order to illustrate what I am talking about here are some pictures of mine:

SkyRay King version:

Now you can calculate the exact length you need with outline resistance calculators, and they are quite close when I tried it in the real world but it needed some fine tuning, mostly due to the difference in the solder resistance.

So the far easier method is to simple connect the shunt to the power supply and feed say 1A into the shunt (or 10A if your leads can handle that, mine can so thats what I used).

Then you will simply move the wires closer or further apart until the multimeter is reading 1mv with 1A flowing through the wire (or10mv for 10A if you did it that way).

You will have to solder the wire in place a few times and it is easiest to simple heat the solder and move the wire up or down the shunt with the tip of the iron. Once you get it right though it is very accurate and simple.

I simply put some alligator clips on the signal wires and connect them to my multimeter leads when taking current readings. This gives me 2 hands free to hold the shunt in place, and you need both of them.

It is also nice since you do not have to worry about shorting out something due to the meter being in current reading mode and/or blowing your meter / fuse.

This 14awg shunt is good for hundreds of amps should you desire to measure that high.

You can also use a regulated flashlight that will be unaffected by voltage drop in the wires to calibrate it. Simple measure the current with your meter directly and then with the shunt and adjust till they match. For example a 105C could be used for this as long as your cell was charged enough to maintain the full output through the meter wires.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

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Just be aware that copper will change resistance with temperature (About 4% for 10C).

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Very useful in a pinch TA, also when not having a proper size shunt when hooking up to a scope.

It should be noted that copper (as most common metals) has a terrible temperature coefficient. Something like 0.4% /degC. So make sure the shunt stays cool and expect even a seasonal effect.

EDIT: HKJ got the ball Smile

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True it will vary some with temperature although not enough to matter for our uses IMHO.

At 10A when testing it on the power supply it only changed the reading by a small amount even when hooked up for several minutes. I think it ended up with about a ~5% change in the reading.

Seeing as where you place the wire in a clamp meter can have that much effect or more I am not worried about it.

Although it is good to keep in mind that it is not a 1% tolerance shunt by any means, just good enough for what we do and cheap and easy.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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HKJ wrote:
Just be aware that copper will change resistance with temperature (About 4% for 10C).

Since you are in here anyways, since seeing your test of the DPS5015 I got mine running (was using the 3012 before) and I noticed similar results to your ripple voltage.

Turns out that the larger units have a higher ripple (makes sense, just not real clear in the specs). Testing my older/smaller DP50V5A the voltage ripple is only ~13mv.

I wish I knew where the midrange models fell between those. The 3012 for example was more stable but I forgot exactly how much more so.

Just some interesting datapoints.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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gauss163 wrote:
What ripple values did you measure for the DPS5015 (and by what method)?

Same values that HKJ got, 100-140mv IIRC depending on the output.

Interestingly it was more stable when in CV mode then in CC mode. Think it was under 90mv when in CV mode.

I measured it with my cheap scope, it is limited but works well for basic things.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Zanders
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Texas_Ace wrote:
gauss163 wrote:
What ripple values did you measure for the DPS5015 (and by what method)?

Same values that HKJ got, 100-140mv IIRC depending on the output.

Interestingly it was more stable when in CV mode then in CC mode. Think it was under 90mv when in CV mode.

I measured it with my cheap scope, it is limited but works well for basic things.


Is there anything we can do to lower the ripple? Better and bigger capacitors?
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Zanders wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
gauss163 wrote:
What ripple values did you measure for the DPS5015 (and by what method)?

Same values that HKJ got, 100-140mv IIRC depending on the output.

Interestingly it was more stable when in CV mode then in CC mode. Think it was under 90mv when in CV mode.

I measured it with my cheap scope, it is limited but works well for basic things.


Is there anything we can do to lower the ripple? Better and bigger capacitors?

Trying to modify this module is not worth it IMO. Either get one of the smaller units or if you need accuracy, power and stability it is time to get a better unit.

I have a dp50V5A and the DPS5015. The combo works well together. I do not need lower ripple when over 5A for anything I do and when I am under 5A I have the smaller unit with only ~13mv of ripple.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

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Received the case this weekend for my 5015, it’s a nice little unit, quite a snug fit but it keeps the whole thing compact.
Also grabbed a 5005 and a couple more of the USB meters he sells on the Ali store, great little units those Thumbs Up

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gauss163 wrote:
@Jinx On the RD case for the DPS, is the fan always full speed, or is it thermally controlled? Is the fan loud?

TBH I can’t say, I assume it should be on constant but mine didn’t work when I first assembled it. I won’t get a chance to look again for at least a week as I’m away working.
A small board attaches directly to the input posts to give power for the fan but I guess I connected it wrong. Looks like a small connector should be provided but it is missing and needs to be soldered.
Video showing case

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I use the Dell EPS-470 as a DC power source for my DPS 5015, and the fans on it are much louder than the fan on the DPS5015, FWIW. The volume of the EPS-470 fans is probably the only part of this budget setup I don’t like, in fact. But if that’s my only complaint, that’s not exactly a dealbreaker.

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Sorry, you are correct I did not understand the question properly. No input from me in that case.

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Quote:

>> … both switch mode supplies.

>

> Old style transformer based supplies will usual last considerable longer

I recall reading a warning that when switch mode power supplies fail, they fail ugly, often destroying the equipment they’re connected to.

Transformer-based power supplies will also produce far less radio noise than most switch mode supplies.

Starting to run a radio frequency noise source is a good way to arrange to meet your local ham radio operators, though.

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Hi old friend
How are you ? it is me again
Because there are 2 good news. So I will both you again to tell you
1, New product DPH5005 buck- boost power supply will be published at 11,11 US time.
There are 3 version, no communication version, USB communication version, USB+ Bluetooth communication version, the price is at least 33.98 usd only 3 days,. After 3 days, the normal price is about at least 38 usd . please seize the opportunity
2, 11.11 biggest sale promotion will beginning at 11.11 US time. There are many big coupons on aliexpress. This is our home page :
In our shop, there are many big discount and coupons
DP and DPS, DPH power supply: 23%-27% off (24%-27% off at phone):
https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/DPS-digital-control-power-supp...
USB Tester Meter: 23%-30% off (24%-30% off at phone): https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/USB-Tester-meter/923042_250764...
OLED meter 23%-30% off (24%-30% off at phone): https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/7-in-1-OLED-METER/923042_50202...
Other products 17%-30%
There are many big coupons : coupons cam be added to use . 8 usd coupon is basic.
8 USD OFF 75 USD
10 USD (8USD +2USD ) off 150 USD
11 USD (8 USD+3 USD ) off 200 usd
13 USD (8 USD+5 USD ) off 299 USD
16 USD (8 USD+ 8 USD ) off 500 USD
Hope it is use for you . you can make order
Thank you again
BEST REGARGS
RD tech official store

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Both my DP and DPS power supplies are still working great, they have gotten very regular use for over a year now.

I have also been using the USB 3.0 tester and USB load source quite a bit recently as I hunt down the best USB power bank. Do you have one that can measure more then 3A of current?

Does the communication version of the power supplies allow logging on the computer yet?

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Both my DP and DPS power supplies are still working great, they have gotten very regular use for over a year now.

I have also been using the USB 3.0 tester and USB load source quite a bit recently as I hunt down the best USB power bank. Do you have one that can measure more then 3A of current?

Does the communication version of the power supplies allow logging on the computer yet?


thank you very much for your support and your message
for now there is no better one , max current is only 3A, the communication version still did not have this function
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I really like DPH5005 that’s what I needed, specially communication version.
Ordered one Smile

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thank you very much for your support
hope you like it

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I bought the DPS30V12A
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-30V-12A-Constant-Voltage-Current-Step-down-P...
and am using the 9.7A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply from Genessi
https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply/dp/B005CL...
I have pictures of the setup
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u3nt8na15p1ouy5/20171219_124051.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bnwp2dnz183bmo2/20171219_124014.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhelwqfe9rn1mtn/20171219_124134.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wgtdjpsey83zdl/20171219_124021.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwj1voafty0oyr1/20171219_124119.jpg?dl=0
Anyway as seen in the pictures the screen of the DPS shows the output voltage only the output current(yellow) and output power (purple)are both at 0.00.
Also when trying to use other preconfigured options like M1…9 it’s reverting back to M0.
Up on top next to Set it shows what I programmed in volts and amps not at the output area.
Does anyone know why this happens? Thanks in advance and let me know how to input pictures.

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gica69 wrote:

let me know how to input pictures.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56178

RD tech
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[quote=gica69]I bought the DPS30V12A
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-30V-12A-Constant-Voltage-Current-Step-down-P...
and am using the 9.7A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply from Genessi
https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply/dp/B005CL...
I have pictures of the setup
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u3nt8na15p1ouy5/20171219_124051.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bnwp2dnz183bmo2/20171219_124014.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhelwqfe9rn1mtn/20171219_124134.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wgtdjpsey83zdl/20171219_124021.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwj1voafty0oyr1/20171219_124119.jpg?dl=0
Anyway as seen in the pictures the screen of the DPS shows the output voltage only the output current(yellow) and output power (purple)are both at 0.00.
Also when trying to use other preconfigured options like M1…9 it’s reverting back to M0.
Up on top next to Set it shows what I programmed in volts and amps not at the output area.

could you make a video to show the problem, your picture is too blur, I can’t see it clearly
and please contact me by email 1749808860@qq.com, ok?

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