The Texas Buck driver series, Q8 / Skyray King 2S/4S buck driver RELEASED!

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Texas_Ace
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The Texas Buck driver series, Q8 / Skyray King 2S/4S buck driver RELEASED!

So after a bit of an on again, off again relationship with this driver I think it is finally ready for it’s first field test.

This driver is a 46mm Q8/SRK sized driver capable of driving up to 15A @ 4S (16.8V) on paper.

It can also be used with 4S input to 2S output and 2S input to 1S output.

Ripple current should be less then 2%

Thanks a ton Flintrock! He is the only reason this was completed at all, I did not remotely have the time or skills to pick through all the components to make this work.

Here is the first prototype board, it is untested and you built it at your own inclination. It works on paper but paper doesn’t always = the real world.

Here is what it looks like :

Here is the schematic we are working with:

OSHpark link: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/lO5Xe6d6

The parts list can be found in this post: Page 11, Post #326

Be warned, these drivers will not be cheap, the parts alone add up to around $20-25 without the PCB. The PCB alone will cost about $15, so expect to pay $35-$40 for one of these drivers fully assembled.

It was a fun project but sadly too expensive for me to actually test myself, so if someone else decides to know that it is at the risk of your money and it is an experimental driver with no guaranties what so ever. I give it around a 75% chance of working perfectly as it sits, 15% chance of working but needing some kind of tweak to make it work as we want, 5% chance of it not working at all and 5% chance of it setting off a chain reaction, going nuclear, starting WWIII, leading to the end of civilization.

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Edited by: Texas_Ace on 11/29/2016 - 18:38
blueb8llz
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This sounds fantastic. I’ll even be happy with less lumens and do with xhp 35 HI with all the success that emitters been having.

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blueb8llz wrote:
This sounds fantastic. I’ll even be happy with less lumens and do with xhp 35 HI with all the success that emitters been having.

Oh, I would totally be doing the HI version myself. Thumbs Up

The new higher bin HI’s from cutter equal the bins of the HD version from other places.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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I’ll be following this one! Luv It!!

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leroycp wrote:
I’ll be following this one! Luv It!!

This driver would in theory be capable of something north of 200 watts depending on what inductor we ended up going with and if we could keep it cool.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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I’ll definitely have to have one.

John 12:46 “I have come into the world as a light, so that no one who believes in me should stay in darkness.” Genesis 1:3 And God said, “Let there be light,” and there was light.
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Wondering about the 10,000 lumens, can it be?

Best I’ve seen from the XHP-35 to date is in the 2100 lumen range at 2.89A from 4 18650’s. Even if you get 4 XHP-35’s into the SRK, you’d need close to 12A to push em all hard enough to make 8400 lumens. At least, that’s my experience with em. Kawiboy has done more XHP-35’s than I have but he too has found em to fry if you push that wee bit too hard…

Neat idea though, whatever it ends up making. Should be pretty impressive. Wink

Edit: FWIW, 4 of the 9V variant MT-G2 can be coaxed to ~15,000 lumens on 3 really good cells. Wink

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DB Custom wrote:
Wondering about the 10,000 lumens, can it be?

Best I’ve seen from the XHP-35 to date is in the 2100 lumen range at 2.89A from 4 18650’s. Even if you get 4 XHP-35’s into the SRK, you’d need close to 12A to push em all hard enough to make 8400 lumens. At least, that’s my experience with em. Kawiboy has done more XHP-35’s than I have but he too has found em to fry if you push that wee bit too hard…

Neat idea though, whatever it ends up making. Should be pretty impressive. Wink

Edit: FWIW, 4 of the 9V variant MT-G2 can be coaxed to ~15,000 lumens on 3 really good cells. Wink

It very well could not hit 10k lumens, no guaranty there till someone tries it.

I am guessing that you were using an FET driver when pushing the XHP35? Taking an educated guess I am guessing you controlled the current by setting a max duty cycle on the FET?

As we all know an FET is much less efficient then a buck driver when it comes to LED output and heat.

A buck driver is constant current which allows for exactly the current you want to be sent to the LED and thus the LED can function much more efficiently.

I know that Acebeam makes 2600 lumens from an XHP35 HI in the K70 with lower binned emitters then we have now days and I am sure they are not 100% maxed out as well.

It is theoretical for sure but if Acebeam can do it I see no reason we can’t as well, particularly with LED’s at least 2 bins higher then what they had access to.

If not then it will still be a LOT brighter then the XP-L’s the Q8 will come with stock Wink

It could also be used for XHP50’s or 70’s as well naturally. 4x XHP50’s would easily reach 10k lumens and a fair amount more based on others testing.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Not an FET, I modified led4power’s LD-2 driver. A regulated 2.89A. Bottom line though is that the XHP-35 is sensitive to the amperage, in many cases I’ve heard of em blowing even lower than I’m running my last one. So it would appear that the 2.9A range is about peak.

Acebeam doesn’t necessarily tell 100% accurate numbers.

XHP-50’s is a likely bet, 70’s are monsters and can take massive current while also producing massive heat. These 2 also have the donut hole issue. Trade-offs, everywhere we look…

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
Not an FET, I modified led4power’s LD-2 driver. A regulated 2.89A. Bottom line though is that the XHP-35 is sensitive to the amperage, in many cases I’ve heard of em blowing even lower than I’m running my last one. So it would appear that the 2.9A range is about peak.

Acebeam doesn’t necessarily tell 100% accurate numbers.

XHP-50’s is a likely bet, 70’s are monsters and can take massive current while also producing massive heat. These 2 also have the donut hole issue. Trade-offs, everywhere we look…

Interesting, strange that they could only manage a ~16% increase over the factory ratings. Cree led’s generally get closer to 40-50% more then rated when on DTP stars and driven well.

Although we do have XHP35 HI’s in bins 2 higher then I am sure you used, so that would be around 2500 lumens all else staying the same unless you were using the HD version of the 35 in your build.

I have an XHP35 here that I could torture test with the now calibrated sphere you sent me to see what it can really do but I didn’t want to risk killing it as I don’t want to have to pay for shipping on another order from cutter. $30 shipping on a $7 part is just hard to stomach. But then I have not seen any tests on the XHP35 yet and I would really like to see what it can do…..

I tested a few XM-L2’s when calibrating the sphere and it was reading dead on the factory spec sheet.

If I haven’t said so, thanks again for the sphere, it has been great! I used it to calibrate my PVC sphere as well for the larger lights and after a few minor changes I have it reading the same as the sphere.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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I have 7 XHP-35’s, all HI variants and all top bins. Wink
Richard has some good ones on Cutter mcpcbs. another Wink

Remember that the XHP-35 is 4 XP-E2 dies in series, that’ll help wrap the mind around the limitations.

Dale

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I'm following this too, but I don't understand the real detailed design issues involving buck drivers. Many have tried here on BLF to design a good buck driver, and the only one I know that came out successful, and was completed, was Richard's, so it's a good foundation to start from. As far as efficiency, all buck and boost drivers, have power (watts) loss's as I understand, where a FET is more efficient every time, in terms of minimizing wasted power (watts). In regulation of course, buck and boost drivers have big advantages.

Richard doesn't say anywhere in his MTN MAX page, but I assume he's using PWM's across all modes, accept hi, so you don't get mode level regulation.

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DB Custom wrote:
I have 7 XHP-35’s, all HI variants and all top bins. Wink
Richard has some good ones on Cutter mcpcbs. another Wink

Remember that the XHP-35 is 4 XP-E2 dies in series, that’ll help wrap the mind around the limitations.

I saw a few places that it uses the G2 dies or at least dies the size of G2’s?

The spec sheet shows it is much closer to a 4x XP-G2 then E2 as well. Particularly when you take into account that the G2 has a dome and the XHP35 does not it is virtually the same on the spec sheet.

What bins are you using? I was under the impression that the E4 was only released a few months ago?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut3023

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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DB Custom
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E4 1D are my latest 4.

Frying the emitter at under 3A per die is more consistent with XP-E2 performance, XP-G2’s can take over 5A apiece.

Dale

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Tom E wrote:

I’m following this too, but I don’t understand the real detailed design issues involving buck drivers. Many have tried here on BLF to design a good buck driver, and the only one I know that came out successful, and was completed, was Richard’s, so it’s a good foundation to start from. As far as efficiency, all buck and boost drivers, have power (watts) loss’s as I understand, where a FET is more efficient every time, in terms of minimizing wasted power (watts). In regulation of course, buck and boost drivers have big advantages.


Richard doesn’t say anywhere in his MTN MAX page, but I assume he’s using PWM’s across all modes, accept hi, so you don’t get mode level regulation.

Yeah, I am learning as I go with the buck driver design, it is actually quite simple and ingenues once you wrap your head around it. The design of the actual buck driver is not a big issue as long as I can reverse engineer the MTN MAX driver to see how it is laid out to make sure I am getting the schematic right.

The only real hang up at this point that I see is the parasitic drain issue. Although like I said above I think this could be solved by powering the MCU directly from the batteries and thus not using the buck converter 5V regulator.

This allows us turn the buck converter off when the light is off by a small FET, thus eliminating any drain in the system besides the MCU. It would have a free pin to control the FET since it would only need a single output to control the buck converter. The FET would simply shut off anytime the MCU went into sleep mode.

This is the basis I am working on at the moment.

Someone like DEL would be the best to get an opinion from, I know enough to understand the basics but not how everything interacts.

The MCU does output a PWM but it is only used to tell the buck converter how much current you want. The buck converter does all the actual work.

I did a bunch of reading yesterday but can’t find some of the links that were good. Here is one that explains things:

http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slyt293/slyt293.pdf

A bit long but good.

Basically a buck converter is a normal FET circuit with an inductor placed between the FET and LED. The inductor stores energy when the FET is on and slows the voltage rise, then when the FET turns off the reverse happens. It releases it’s stored energy and causes the voltage to drop slowly (in comparison to instantly stopping).

What the buck converter does is watch all of this happen at up to 2mhz+. It then times the FET to turn on so that voltage/current increases to 5% over your target level. It then turns the FET off and lets the inductor release the stored energy until voltage/current (remember they are directly connected with LED’s) is 5% less then target.

It then repeats this process endlessly giving you a regulated and constant current with a 10% ripple (aka, 5% over and 5% under target). Better buck converters can obviously be much better then this but the one we use has a 10% ripple.

That is the basics to how it works, just an FET with an inductor, technically you could make a buck driver by simply adding an inductor to a normal FET driver. but the circuitry to actually monitor things and ensure constant current is a bit more complicated, which is where the buck converter comes in.

The ripple is not a big deal in most cases but if you add a large enough capacitor to the output from the inductor you can further clean up the signal. The old Skyray king drivers had this setup.

Far as I can tell the limiting factor when it comes to current is the inductor, small ones just can’t handle high amps and the larger the inductor the better. Since we have a lot of room in the Q8 this should not be a problem. The one I linked above is rated for 18A and would easily fit in the Q8 assuming we have at least 6-8mm of height clearance, which we should.

Honestly the biggest issue I see for a buck driver in a flashlight is size, trying to fit it on a 17mm board and make it supply high currents would be silly hard and you would need to overdrive the inductor causing a lot of heat.

I think I am going to move ahead with basically using the MTN MAX driver with an FET to turn the buck converter off when sleeping and see what the schematic looks like.

Anyone that has something to say, please do say it!

I pretty much need to finish these driver projects this week as my free time will be cut drastically after that.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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DB Custom wrote:
E4 1D are my latest 4.

Frying the emitter at under 3A per die is more consistent with XP-E2 performance, XP-G2’s can take over 5A apiece.

Interesting, no idea what to make of it, seems odd that acebeam would be lying by that much, CPF seems to think they are making more then 2600, I saw claims of 2800 lumens.

Either way, the exact number doesn’t really matter. it can be done for sure with an XHP50, maybe the MCPCB could be designed to allow for XM pads as well as XP? I know it was brought up but it was not selected for some reason.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Another key to a properly working buck driver is a high quality, fast switching FET.

It needs to switch as fast as possible to minimize heat build up. I know the SIR400’s work well for high currents and don’t generally have any issues but has anyone looked at how they handle high frequency?

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

EasyB
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DB Custom wrote:
E4 1D are my latest 4.

Frying the emitter at under 3A per die is more consistent with XP-E2 performance, XP-G2’s can take over 5A apiece.

We were just discussing the die size in another thread. It seems like the lateral size of the XHP35 is more consistent with it being 4 XPG2 sized dies.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/986267#comment-986267

How are the XHP35 emitters frying? Is it at the bond wires? From pictures it looks like all the current flows through one bond wire instead of two like on the XPG2.

Regarding the output differences between measurements and Acebeam’s claims: could some of that be OTF lumens vs LED lumens? I would guess there could be up to 20% loss in the flashlight.

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EasyB wrote:
We were just discussing the die size in another thread. It seems like the lateral size of the XHP35 is more consistent with it being 4 XPG2 sized dies.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/986267#comment-986267

Is there somewhere that has better measurements than that graphic? It doesn’t use any unit of measurement, and it is showing “optical source size” instead of actual size anyways.

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EasyB wrote:
Regarding the output differences between measurements and Acebeam’s claims: could some of that be OTF lumens vs LED lumens? I would guess there could be up to 20% loss in the flashlight.

I suppose that acebeam could be using emitter lumens, although I thought they are FL-1 ratings? Or are they one of those manufactured that just slap a number on the lights? I thought the little I heard about them said they were reasonably honest about the ratings.

The bond wires is a good point though, that could very well be the case, they do seem to be going at right about half the current of normal XP-G2’s

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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pilotdog68 wrote:
EasyB wrote:
We were just discussing the die size in another thread. It seems like the lateral size of the XHP35 is more consistent with it being 4 XPG2 sized dies. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/986267#comment-986267
Is there somewhere that has better measurements than that graphic? It doesn’t use any unit of measurement, and it is showing “optical source size” instead of actual size anyways.

It would be easy for someone with a HI version to just measure it, but I don’t have one. The “optical source size” seems to be consistent with the lateral size, though, because it says the XPL HD is ~1.5x the size of the XPL HI, which is consistent with our observations that dedoming reduces apparent area by ~1.5^2=2.25. Also it agrees with our observations that the XPL HI and XPG2 with dome are about the same size.

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I just measured an XHP35 HI best I could without damaging it.

Comes out to between 2.65-2.75mm or there abouts, hard to get an accurate reading without messing up the silicone and risking it burning later.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Ehm a lot is way over my head here…
I assume the focus is on the xhp35 because they could be reflowed on the Q8 ledboard as hoped for now?

With the 4 18650 cells a 2S2P configuration makes more sense to me then 4 series.
A boost from 3-8.4 to 12V should be given in this case but longer runtimes and a mod I would dare start Wink

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The Miller wrote:
Ehm a lot is way over my head here…
I assume the focus is on the xhp35 because they could be reflowed on the Q8 ledboard as hoped for now?

With the 4 18650 cells a 2S2P configuration makes more sense to me then 4 series.
A boost from 3-8.4 to 12V should be given in this case but longer runtimes and a mod I would dare start Wink

Yes, the XHP35 is mostly due to it being a direct replacement, if the MCPCB was changed to the other design that was purposed that had pads for both XP and XM LED’s then the XHP50 would be the one to watch.

Far as 2s2p vs 4S. 4S makes more sense in this case IMHO.

Firstly the XHP35 must have 12v so it has to be 4s.
Secondly all the XHP series can be run in 4s mode or run in series to work in 4S mode.
Lastly higher voltage and lower current = less heat in the driver/components and thus less resistance. This allows you to be more efficient and push more power.

Why do you think that all the major manufactures go with the cells in series whenever possible? It is easier and better from an electrical point of view.

There is nothing that 2s2p offers that 4s doesn’t do better if using a buck driver in a light with 4 LED’s. No matter what the setup you can make it work better (aka, more efficient) with 4s. Now sure the changes are not much but there is simply nothing that 2s2p offers that is better.

Technically the best possible driver setup for the Q8 would be a buck driver running 4s and driving all 4 XP-L’s in series. This way each LED would get exactly the same current and it would take less total current flowing through the system.

Instead of ~16+ amps it would only need ~4 amps to reach the same wattage/lumens (4 amps x 16 volts is the same as 16 amps x 4 volts).

Because there would not be as many losses in the driver/wires/springs/everwhere you would actually be able to push a noticeable amount more current as well netting more power. The gains could be as much as half an amp per LED depending on how much resistance is in the system.

This is why all the big manufactured run the batteries in series, it simply works better.

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Texas_Ace][quote=The Miller wrote:

Far as 2s2p vs 4S. 4S makes more sense in this case IMHO.

Firstly the XHP35 must have 12v so it has to be 4s.
Secondly all the XHP series can be run in 4s mode or run in series to work in 4S mode.
Lastly higher voltage and lower current = less heat in the driver/components and thus less resistance. This allows you to be more efficient and push more power.

Why do you think that all the major manufactures go with the cells in series whenever possible? It is easier and better from an electrical point of view.

There is nothing that 2s2p offers that 4s doesn’t do better if using a buck driver in a light with 4 LED’s. No matter what the setup you can make it work better (aka, more efficient) with 4s. Now sure the changes are not much but there is simply nothing that 2s2p offers that is better.

Technically the best possible driver setup for the Q8 would be a buck driver running 4s and driving all 4 XP-L’s in series. This way each LED would get exactly the same current and it would take less current flowing through the system, instead of ~16+ amps it would only need ~4 amps to reach the same numbers.

Because there would not be as many losses in the driver/wires/springs/everwhere you would actually be able to push a fair amount more current as well netting more power. The gains could be as much as half an amp per LED depending on how much resistance is in the system.


Can sign all posted.

Guys, do not exaggerate XHP35 possibilities. They are limited by thermal conductivity and thermal pad area. If both are same, led can not be able to provide more than XP-L. Just few percent more efficincy cause less losses cause lower current rates.

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selfbuilt's review has measured lumens, and I trust his measured estimated lumens more than the manufacturers. His # is 2,275 lumens, here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?421264. This makes more sense, plus that big 88 mm reflector - big reflectors do seem to squeeze out more lumens, like the old TN31. Maybe between the size, SMO, and good AR lens... dunno.

 

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kiriba-ru wrote:

Can sign all posted.

Guys, do not exaggerate XHP35 possibilities. They are limited by thermal conductivity and thermal pad area. If both are same, led can not be able to provide more than XP-L. Just few percent more efficincy cause less losses cause lower current rates.

I actually didn’t even want to talk about XHP35’s in this thread, I wanted to design a buck driver to run them lol.

I honestly do not know what they are capable of, I never claimed I did. I simply said that if acebeam could get 2600 lumens out of them, then I think we can as well. I still do think we can match whatever acebeam did, there is no magic involved in it afterall.

I do think that is best left to another thread though.

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Tom E wrote:

selfbuilt’s review has measured lumens, and I trust his measured estimated lumens more than the manufacturers. His # is 2,275 lumens, here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?421264. This makes more sense, plus that big 88 mm reflector – big reflectors do seem to squeeze out more lumens, like the old TN31. Maybe between the size, SMO, and good AR lens… dunno.


 

Good review there, I would say that does sound reasonable.

Just for the sake of keeping everyone happy I took the 35’s out of the OP, I would not have mentioned them if I had known people would focus on that instead of the driver to use them lol.

I only used them as an example because they must have 4s and I wanted an example that used 4s.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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So, back to the buck driver design

I have been reading everything buck driver all morning and they are really fairly simple, just a lot of components working together.

I think that by using the SIR400/800 FET we will have a pretty good FET efficiency, they have already proved themselves and the conditions will not be much different then how we use the FET now. Except it will have a full 5V and tons of currant feeding it.

The buck converter itself has already proved itself and looks good.

We need to pick an inductor but that should not be that hard, lots of options that will fit in a Q8.

Might possibly add a large cap to smooth out some of the ripple as well if space allows.

Then just a matter of picking out the parts.

Now for the fun part, reverse engineering the schematic….

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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If you stick with the freewheeling diode in MTN MAX, you will probably need to use 2 parallel to each other as they are only rated for 10amps. That or find a diode that can handle more current. It is important they are well heat sinked too. When the Buck converter cuts battery power to the LED’s, all the current supplied to the LED’s flows through the freewheeling diode.

So you have determined that this buck driver will have enough voltage overhead with 4S cells to drive 4S (3v) emitters? I would think that a buck driver in such a situation will provide limited High/Turbo mode performance due to battery voltage sag as current increases, increased Vf of the emitters, and losses in the buck conversion. I hope I’m wrong though.

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