Budget friendly adjustable bench Power supplies perfect for testing LED's and other uses!

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Texas_Ace
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Budget friendly adjustable bench Power supplies perfect for testing LED's and other uses!

First off I am NOT the manufacture nor do I have anything to do with these power supplies. I was talking to the manufacture on aliexpress and I suggested that he make an account on here as BLF has a need for high current power supplies like he offers. He doesn’t speak English perfectly and requested that I help him post a thread.

You may contact user RD tech with any questions : http://budgetlightforum.com/user/20499

His aliexpress store: http://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042

Here is a copy/paste of the message from him:

Quote:
about the message , you can help you send. you can tell them , when they come to my shop and say he is from BLF ,

i will give them discount price :

DPS5015 33 USD

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPS5015-Constant-Voltage-curr...

DPS3012 29.99 USD

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/RD-DPS3012-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-...

other power supply DP30V5A, DP50V5A, DPS3003, DPS3005,, i will give 2-3 USD discount

this discount price only keep for 5days.
thank you . hope you help me advertise ..
I will make a accunt for myself
thank you soon

This is a good deal, I would just spring for the 5015 myself for the extra $3. I love my 3012.

You can see my (uncompensated) review of these here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48523

Pics from review:


You will also need a power supply to power these with. For LED testing an old ATX power supply works well unless you want to play with XHP35’s. The ATX power supply will limit you to around 11v max.

If you want the full abilities of the voltage then I am using a cheap “48 volt” power supply from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131664355579

Mine is adjustable down to around 36v for use with the 3012 (test voltage before you connect it). I am using the 150w version of the ebay power supply but if you plan on pumping a lot of power you can obviously get the 400w version as well, due to the low wattages we use with LED’s I did not see a reason for the higher wattage though.

Out the door you should be under $50 for a power supply that is capable of 50v and 15A.

New version released 10-31-16

For those that want to use an ATX or other simular low voltage power supply this same company just released a new buck/boost version of the power supply module.

It outputs 0-32V and the input is 6-40V with a 5A max current.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPH3205-Buck-boost-converter...

This really opens the door for more compact and easier to build power supplies if you do not need the higher current and voltage abilities of the DPS5015

It is on sale during the introduction for $28.99 for 3 days, grab it while you can, they always do this when released and the price DOES go up after that.

Email I was sent about this:

Quote:
I am coming to tell you 2 good news.
1, New product is being published: RD DPH3205 Buck-Boost digital power supply 32v/5A/160W, 28.99 USD, only 3days, after this , normal price is 34 USD. If you need, you can check https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPH3205-Buck-boost-converter...

2, Big sale promotion 11.11 is coming. Aliexpress will dispute many many coupons. So we have a big discount 17%-24% off from 11st-13st. There are 4 USD, 5 USD, 10 USD coupons. DP power supply is 23% off (phone 24%). Others are cheaper than normal price. 3. in 4st-10st. there is no any discount sale promotion on aliexpress. if you want to buy , please before it or after it .

We are manufacturer. I can give the best price and best service. And you have known it for your last order.
Hope this is useful for you. Happy shopping.
Have a nice day
BEST REGARDS
Liu- Hangzhou Ruideng Technologies Co., Ltd

Quote:
Here is the Design for the Acrylic case I made in case anyone wants to make one. It is cut out with a laser cutter from standard hardware store .08” acrylic sheet (“plexiglass”). Thicker acrylic would be stronger but costs a lot more and is much harder to find.

Proper acrylic glue will be stronger and look better but hot glue or super glue works just fine as well.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982235

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

Edited by: Texas_Ace on 12/19/2016 - 18:59
Texlite
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Thanks for this, I’ve looked for a reasonably priced power supply capable of greater than 30V and 10A for close to a year. The sub $100 10A 30V power supply’s are easy to find, and it’ll work for most of the emitters we use here, but I’ve got some projects coming up with COB LED’s and they’re usually have a Vf around 36V. Reasonable 50V power supply’s are also fairly easy to find, but most often have current outputs below 5A, and some even below 3A, which knocks out high-amp/low-Vf LED’s.

Until this it seems it’s been a choice between either high amp, low Vf tests, OR high-Vf, low amp tests.

This seems to fill the void IMO.

Off to read the other threads before I spam you with questions lol.

-Michael

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I’m very interested in one the DP50V15A, but I would like to see more reviews for it.

Texas_Ace
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raven38571 wrote:
I’m very interested in one the DP50V15A, but I would like to see more reviews for it.

Check out my review in the OP. I review both the DP and DPS series (all the models in the series are the same, just different voltage and amperage ratings).

Although I don’t think there is a 15A version of the DP series? Did you mean the DPS5015?

The DPS5015 is the same as my DPS3012, just with more voltage and amperage. I wish it had been released when I ordered mine as that is what I would have ordered.

Here are some pictures from pinkpanda3310 from this thread with his DPS : http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48703


If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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Texlite wrote:
Thanks for this, I’ve looked for a reasonably priced power supply capable of greater than 30V and 10A for close to a year. The sub $100 10A 30V power supply’s are easy to find, and it’ll work for most of the emitters we use here, but I’ve got some projects coming up with COB LED’s and they’re usually have a Vf around 36V. Reasonable 50V power supply’s are also fairly easy to find, but most often have current outputs below 5A, and some even below 3A, which knocks out high-amp/low-Vf LED’s.

Until this it seems it’s been a choice between either high amp, low Vf tests, OR high-Vf, low amp tests.

This seems to fill the void IMO.

Off to read the other threads before I spam you with questions lol.

-Michael

This was my reason for ordering it as well. I could find power supplies offering either the amperage I wanted or the voltage but never both.

Plus even a 50v 3A was around $50. When I realized I could get one that would do it all AND come out cheaper then even a basic power supply, well it was a no brainier for me.

I was really glad they worked as described, I didn’t buy one for a week or 2 as I could not find a review and was scared of it not working as it should. Then I said ailexpress will protect me and ordered anyways lol. They get daily workouts now days powering all sorts of things.

They also make a great high amp battery charger as well.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

LightRider
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Will these read a voltage connected to the output? Or is there a way to incorporate a volt meter into the final design?

Texas_Ace
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LightRider wrote:
Will these read a voltage connected to the output? Or is there a way to incorporate a volt meter into the final design?

The DPS3012 and DPS5015 will indeed read voltage connected to the output, for example when connecting to batteries for charging it will read the actual voltage on the output line. It is quite accurate as well.

The DP series will not read voltage and honestly are not nearly as good as the DPS, particularly for our uses.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

Texlite
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Texlite wrote:
Thanks for this, I’ve looked for a reasonably priced power supply capable of greater than 30V and 10A for close to a year. The sub $100 10A 30V power supply’s are easy to find, and it’ll work for most of the emitters we use here, but I’ve got some projects coming up with COB LED’s and they’re usually have a Vf around 36V. Reasonable 50V power supply’s are also fairly easy to find, but most often have current outputs below 5A, and some even below 3A, which knocks out high-amp/low-Vf LED’s.

Until this it seems it’s been a choice between either high amp, low Vf tests, OR high-Vf, low amp tests.

This seems to fill the void IMO.

Off to read the other threads before I spam you with questions lol.

-Michael

This was my reason for ordering it as well. I could find power supplies offering either the amperage I wanted or the voltage but never both.

Plus even a 50v 3A was around $50. When I realized I could get one that would do it all AND come out cheaper then even a basic power supply, well it was a no brainier for me.

I was really glad they worked as described, I didn’t buy one for a week or 2 as I could not find a review and was scared of it not working as it should. Then I said ailexpress will protect me and ordered anyways lol. They get daily workouts now days powering all sorts of things.

They also make a great high amp battery charger as well.

I think I confused the threads lol, posting in the other as well, sorry.

Here’s the only one I’ve found, 50V and 20A, all for the low low price of….

$310! Shocked

http://m.ebay.com/itm/201652445861

-Michael

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I put in an order for the dps5015. Seems it will be of great value as I move forward in electronics. Thanks for the discount.

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TA thanks, another great addition to your ever growing high quality input here, I felt humbled by the old timers and you are another good humbling factor here for me Wink

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The Miller wrote:
TA thanks, another great addition to your ever growing high quality input here, I felt humbled by the old timers and you are another good humbling factor here for me Wink

This is true. You have accomplished much in so little time. But the thing that gets me is that you have published your accomplishments as well. I find this so hard to do, in fact, i believe I have yet to do it once.

Texas_Ace
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Thanks for all the compliments everyone.

LightRider wrote:
This is true. You have accomplished much in so little time. But the thing that gets me is that you have published your accomplishments as well. I find this so hard to do, in fact, i believe I have yet to do it once.

I am pretty sure you are saying this as a good thing. I always feel like I am bragging posting accomplishments.

I have always firmly believed that EVERYTHING can be made / done / built better. It is just a matter of desire and time dto figure out how.

Even the things I have done, as soon as I finish them I immediately start picking them apart noting how I could do it better next time. Big Smile

The nice thing about flashlights is they are a lot quicker/simpler/easier then my normal hobbies (cars, guns, cars, paintball, sports, working out, cars, computers, video gaming, cars. you know, the basics for a Texican). Although sadly once you have played with all the cheap flashlights things start getting more expensive to keep playing with them in a hurry lol. There was a time when a $10 flashlight was considered a big investment……That was a long long time ago….

I am glad that others have benefited from what I have been able to share. I know I have benefited far more from what I have learned on here from others.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

jhalb
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Anyone know what the actual accuracy is with any of these.

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To get the sort of accuracy you are asking for we’ll need to ask HKJ or someone with the right equipment to test it.

Texas_Ace
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jhalb wrote:
Anyone know what the actual accuracy is with any of these.

I tested both of mine vs both my fluke and UT139C multimeters (they agree on basically everything).

The power supplies agreed with my multimeters to within the stated tolerances. Generally no more then .01 off or so except in the super fine voltage regain.

I can run an actual official test if people want it. After running them through the voltage range while connected to my multimeters in both current and voltage mode I decided that I didn’t need to do anymore testing.

At any given point the power supplies were generally not off by more then .01. A few spots they were slightly further off but still within spec from my back of the hand math as I ran through the numbers.

The only “inaccuracy” I noted was that when making super fine voltage adjustments it would sometimes “miss” a change. I would not expect them to reliably adjust voltage more accurate then .01 at a time, trying to adjust in smaller increments it will still show the correct voltage it is outputting but it may not be exactly what you set it for.

For what I do with these and what most of us here would use them for this is already far more accuracy then we need for LED’s.

Honestly the larger inaccuracy comes from cheap test leads / banana plugs. I was getting up to .1v of voltage drop per amp with cheap leads and banana plugs. Upgrading to 14 gauge wire dropped it to around .08v per amp. Using better banana plugs/connectors dropped it down further to around .055v per amp.

Finally I connected it with an XT60 connector, this nets me around .03v of voltage drop per amp. This is about as good as you can get with 14g wire. Direct connecting it was around .25v per amp drop.

I tried some larger 12 gauge wire as a test and it dropped it a bit further but it also was harder to work with so think I am going to stick to 12 gauge. I did make up some 4 gauge leads but I need an XT60 connector to plug them in.

For high current work good test leads are key and this is not an issue with the power supply itself, simply an issue with dealing with higher currents.

Also an example of why all the OEM flashlights are in series battery config, higher voltage is easy compared to high amperage.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

pinkpanda3310
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LOL, you’re promoting these ‘budget’ power items but you have a fluke! I have one of those cheap and nasty yellow DMM’s. I had 2 but the battery went flat in one and when I replaced the battery it still didn’t work. It took a few minutes to work out the + and – terminals had been labelled incorrectly Angry

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^
I think TA is more just alerting us to what he feels is a good deal for decent equipment that is being sold by it’s own designer. Hopefully, that means the price is low, but the equipment is not cheap. Plus it should have better customer support with trouble shooting and such.

Order place for a 5015. Still not sure what I what I will power it with yet.

Texas_Ace
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
LOL, you’re promoting these ‘budget’ power items but you have a fluke! I have one of those cheap and nasty yellow DMM’s. I had 2 but the battery went flat in one and when I replaced the battery it still didn’t work. It took a few minutes to work out the + and – terminals had been labelled incorrectly Angry

Not totally sure what a fluke multimeter has to do with a power supply? They are completely different devices. The power supply outputs power, the fluke multimeter reads how much it is outputting.

FYI, I picked up my flukes for $10 each from a garage sale (well I had another one from a pawn shop for $18 but I sold that one to pay for the rest, so I actually ended up with the ones I kept for free lol).

That said I actually prefer my UT139C over the flukes unless I am dealing with really high voltage (like over 220v mains), over that and the fluke does have better protection. Under that the UT139C is more accurate, more features and easier to use IMO. The price is great for a nice multimeter, think I paid around $35 for mine.

The funny thing is that I still end up using my harbor fright free multimeters the most. They are simple, quick and I don’t care about them. So I generally just grab one of those (calibrated with my other ones so it is actually quite accurate) and do what I need to do. Only when I need precision or features do I grab the UT139C.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
^
I think TA is more just alerting us to what he feels is a good deal for decent equipment that is being sold by it’s own designer. Hopefully, that means the price is low, but the equipment is not cheap. Plus it should have better customer support with trouble shooting and such.

Order place for a 5015. Still not sure what I what I will power it with yet.

Exactly, I have no connection with these power supplies other then having talked to the designer a few times about possible future features.

After having searched high and low for an adjustable power supply that would handle the high currents that LED’s need and finding nothing in the sub $50 range, I figured there might be others in my shoes.

Having used these for a month or 2 and them working flawlessly I figured they had proved themselves to me enough to let some others know about them.

I was not sure what I would do with them besides using them to test LED’s at first but since I got them I keep finding more and more uses for them. It is nice for testing all sorts of electronics. Also nice for electroplating, making colloidal silver, anodizing among other things I could not do before.

In our case, if you get the 5015 you can use it as a 15 amp (with a fan blowing over it) capable battery charger (obviously you would want a few batteries in parallel if charging at full current). I use it for fast charging sometimes although my B6 works fine for that as well if I just put 2 cells on it.

It is nice for battery recovery as well, if you have really discharged cells you want to hit them with really low currents (under 50-100ma per cell) till around 3.5V, then slowly increase the current from there. This is much easier to control with a power supply them my charger at low currents.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

raven38571
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I went ahead and ordered me a DPS5015. I’m a sucker for a good deal.

pinkpanda3310
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I thought flukes were worth a lot more than that. My bad.

Texas_Ace
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I thought flukes were worth a lot more than that. My bad.

They are, a lot of people would put the deal I got under the category of a “steal”. The guy I got them from knew it was just that as well but I was buying a bunch of other stuff from him at the same time and by buying these he got to close up shop early in the 100+ degree temps, so he cut me a deal. Wink

If I was to resell these I could get about $50-60 for them, which is what I got for the other one I sold. The new models are several hundred bucks each and honestly unless I was a professional dealing with voltages well over 240v on a regular basis, I would not buy them.

The Uni-T 139C is more then enough for everyone else. It is another item I highly recommend for the budget electronics tinkering BTW. A cheap multimeter (aka, harbor freight or other sub $20 meter) works just fine if it is calibrated, the issue is you never know if it actually is calibrated correctly or not. I got the 139C to remove that doubt as the reviews online are overwhelmingly positive, even from those super picking about multimeters). The extra features are a nice bonus and the extra digit is surprisingly useful.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

LightRider
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I ordered the 5015. Now I am starting to plan the housing. You mentioned that good banana sockets lowered resistance. How do you know what plugs are “good”? There are so many chiices and prices. It seems the good ones are mixed into a wide array of cheap ones.

Texas_Ace
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LightRider wrote:
I ordered the 5015. Now I am starting to plan the housing. You mentioned that good banana sockets lowered resistance. How do you know what plugs are “good”? There are so many chiices and prices. It seems the good ones are mixed into a wide array of cheap ones.

Yes, the banana jacks/plugs I had were the cheap ones from ebay and they sucked. Voltage drop of over .05v per amp in those alone.

I swapped to an XT60 hobby connector for my main leads now and just have a pair of banana jacks in case I need a unique connector.

I personally never got a good banana jack but I only tried 2 different kinds. I am guessing it is a matter of you get what you pay for.

Going with your main leads with an XT60 style jack or just directly connected is the best option, then have a secondary pair of cheap banana jacks for other stuff. I find that if I need the banana jacks it generally doesn’t need much current and as such the voltage drop is not a big deal.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

ImA4Wheelr
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A bit slow to report here as hobby time has been limited. I received my 5015 last week. Packed crazy well in a rectangular Styrofoam cooler type container.  Components and assembly appear to be high quality to my amateur eyes.  Super easy to set up as all the connection points are well labeled. Haven't got around to making an enclosure. So just did a couple quick tests to make sure it works. Seems to work really well.  Voltage and current see rock steady and easy to control.  Very happy so far.  Need to hook up an oscilloscope after I finish the power supply, but my sense is it in a totally different league than the benchtop psu in the bottom picture.

 

pilotdog68
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So what’s the advantage of this one vs a buck regulator like this one: link

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Texas_Ace
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pilotdog68 wrote:
So what’s the advantage of this one vs a buck regulator like this one: “link”:http://www.banggood.com/B3606-NC-Digital-DC-DC-Step-Down-Buck-Module-Con...

They are both buck converters and work similar. It is basically a matter of quality and output level.

The one on banggood is a lot harder to work with and I am going to guess not as accurate.

The LCD screen on the 5015 is an amazing tool that makes using it far more plesent.

The biggest difference though is the 5015 is good for 50v and 15A, the one on banggood is only good for 36V and 6A.

If you don’t need more then that, then they will both do the job. Although they also have cheaper dp and dps options if you don’t need as much current.

Higher current requires much better components and design.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

pilotdog68
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I have one of these currently. I agree the screen isn’t so convenient.

So if I don’t need as high of power, this one will be just as good?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Texas_Ace
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pilotdog68 wrote:
I have one of these currently. I agree the screen isn’t so convenient.

So if I don’t need as high of power, this one will be just as good?

Yeah, that would work just fine. I have that model as well myself and it works great. That said the firmware is nicer on the DPS series but nothing that major.

You can pick up the DPS series for a few bucks more and if you send him a message he might knock the price down a bit more if you mention BLF : https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/DPS-Programmble-control-power-...

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

pilotdog68
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Did you detail the observable firmware differences in a review somewhere? (I’m interested and don’t want to make you type it twice)

edit: found on BG:

Quote:
DPS series are updated version.
1.Panel is different. In DPS series, we change the M1/↑and M2/↓ into V/↑and A/↓. You can press those button set the voltage and current fast.
2.We add a new function “set default boot open or close output”
Others are not changed. DPS5005 still need diode to charge the battery.
Find the difference between DPS and DP see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptt931rrXo8

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Texas_Ace
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Yeah, it was posted in my review but the above quote is the gist of it.

That is one thing I forgot to mention, the larger 3012 and 5015 allow you to charge batteries without a diode, which is much much better (it allows you to see the actual voltage of the batteries instead of just what the supply is putting out plus the diodes have a voltage drop as we know.

The ability to charge batteries with up to 15A is quite a nice feature to have.

You can look at the extra cost as a high powered battery charger.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

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