I just recieved my UF 2100 that I purchased through the group buy last month. This is my 2nd light after the 504b with Manafont XM-L. The 504b has been excellent so i have be anxiously awaiting the 2100.
I dropped a Trustfire flame in it and went to the garage to test it out. It lit up great at first. I went through the three modes without issue. Then I got some flickers and after only a few clicks it quit working. I took out the battery and reinserted it, hoping the battery was not in just right, but no luck.
After clicking a few times I did get a flash of light a time or two, but now it doesn't seem to work anymore. Any ideas? The clicker still clicks, but no light.
Thanks for any suggestions as to what I should do with the light.
Take the light apart and try cleaning all the threads, especially by the tailcap. Q-tips work nicely. It's the first thing you should do with any new light.
Do you have a multimeter? You can also check the current to see if you have a faulty tailcap/clickie.
Hopefully, just cleaning the threads will work. If not, let us know.
Well I cleaned off the threads, both ends with the q-tips. It still isn't working. I do not have a multimeter to test the clicky. Any other ideas. Thanks.
Ok, to check to see if your tailcap is bad, remove the tailcap and head stand the body. Insert a battery (if it's not already there), take a small piece of metal wire or paper clip and touch the neg end of the battery. With the other end of the wire, touch the threads right next to the end of the battery.
You are in essence using the wire as a tailcap. If it lights up, it's the tailcap that's having issues.
You can also use a small, thin strip of aluminum foil.
You can remove the tailcap then get a wire or paper clip and make contact with the negative end of the battery and the bare threads. If the light turns on this way, then the problem is in the tailcap (probably the switch).
A lot of times you can take it apart and put it back together and it will work. Sometimes there are just bad contacts in there or the spring is loose or whatever.
I am looking at this tailcap and I think taking it apart probably exceeds my flashlight "know how." I can't see how it would come apart any more than it is. If you have a suggestion, I am game to try anything.
I don't know how easy it is to have something replaced through DinoDirect, but I could try contacting them also. Hate the idea of waiting another three weeks though.
You don't need to take the switch itself apart, but usually you can unscrew the retaining ring (usually some needle nose pliers will fit in dimples of the ring so you can unscrew it) and the switch and some parts will come out.
I don't have a UF 2100 yet, but I have the Ultrafire X1 which is similar and it has some kind of weird issue with the tail spring. The spring gets crooked and seems to cause connection problems. It's very annoying.
You can also give this product a try. It's like WD-40 but for electronics. I use it on my Maglite conversion builds to lower the resistance of the stock switch. You have to be careful with the product though if you're using direct drive and not a current regulating driver... If you lower the switch resistance and you're using direct drive, you might POOF your LED.
I know it's a bit expensive at almost $20 a can but I can tell you that it works miracles for any type of switch that isn't working correctly... One can of it should last you forever. I've fixed 3 bad tailcap switches from lights that I got from DX with it. It really is amazing!
Do both .. as for a new tailcap and get some pointy scissors or needle nose pliers or pointy tweezers and stick them in the holes and back out the tailcap and clean and reassemble it .. it's very basic clean contacts with q tip rubbingalcohol tighten it back down and yer good to go .. you can search here for these tips too..
That tailcap might simply need to be tightened. Do like Boaz said with needle nose pliers but first just try tightening the ring. The way the tail is designed that ring makes pressure contact with the switch PCB to flow ground current to the head. Once the battery is in the light and the tail screwed on the spring pressure from the battery will break that contact between the switch PCB and the ring resulting in intermittent connection or no connection at all. Tightening up the ring should fix you up unless it's really the switch mechanism itself and WD-40 should fix that more than likely.
Well, I took the whole thing apart and cleaned everything in the tail cap. I also tightened it down as tight as possible. I still don't have it working.
I had a question about wd-40. What exactly should I spray with the wd-40. I noticed that the plastic clicker is soldered to some sort of circuit board. Can that be wd-40d as well or are there parts that should remain clean.
Something tells me that you cant hurt anything with wd-40, but I wanted to ask before I start spraying.
I did message Summer and was directed to customer support, but I would rather fix it if it is possible before going that route. Thanks for all of the help once again.
I sprayed tailcap with wd-40 and let it trickle down. After taking it apart multiple times, cleaning, etc. I think it just doesn't work.
I will go the path of Dino Direct's customer support and see if they will help. Also, if you know where I can just buy a replacement tailcap that fits the UF 2100 that can ship quickly, I would be interested in that as well.
Make sure the tongue makes contact with the body of the cap, you can see the little tongue on the bottom in that picture... http://forum.fonarevka.ru/attachment.php?s=3b4bdf6fe56bb4038a343552886f5ad5&attachmentid=24641&d=1312024443 ...I still don't have the uf 2100 If don't works you should check if pass current thought your switch when is on