Tint

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gcbryan
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Tint

Just a couple of thoughts/questions regarding tint.

I've noticed that many are very concerned with the tint of the emitter in their lights. Some to the point where they post that they would never get another light unless it was neutral or warm. Some seem to imply that they have lights that they would be pleased with and use more if the tint were better.

Sometimes it's a matter of just having a particularly purple or greenish tinted light that is bothersome.

My question is why not use a filter to correct those problems? Is it because you can't get into the head (as some are sealed) or because you don't want to put a filter on the outside of the lens (if the head is sealed)?

Is it because the filter would reduce the output a bit (as does a neutral or warm tint)?

Is it because you don't have filters or never thought about using them?

I'd be interested to hear everyones views on this subject.

watkins
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oldbobk wrote:

gcbryan,

      To me, the whiter tints make everything appear two dimensional. The neutrals and warms look more realistic to my eye, and make it easier to spot animals at night. This is mostly personal preference.

     On the question of filters, you posted a reference to Lee Filters, and a sample pack. I can't find that on their website. Can you direct me?

                                                                        Bob K

 

Try ebay, hundreds of them normally.

they are for photography.

trooplewis
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A filter does exactly what it says it does; it filters out specific parts of the spectrum, so yes, you are losing brightness when you filter out light.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

peteybaby
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"because you don't have filters or never thought about using them"

Luckily, I only have 5-6 lights, not including headlamps (it's difficult to find NW headlamps), and 3 of them are NW or WW, so going forward I'll just make sure I buy NW lights, or CW lights where the MCPCBs can be easily swapped for NW ones.

okwchin
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Id prefer if the phosphor converted the unwanted wavelengths into the type that was lacking, instead of simply removing the less desirable tint. The other problem with the filter is that it will not filter the exact wavelengths that are in excess, so it too is also a compromise solution.

The only real solution is incan??? (hahah)

 

Yes, CW torches with the ability to change emitters is seen to me a a very strong selling point. This is why I have bought sunwayman torches Undecided

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

CEHepp
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gcbryan wrote:

Just a couple of thoughts/questions regarding tint.

I've noticed that many are very concerned with the tint of the emitter in their lights. Some to the point where they post that they would never get another light unless it was neutral or warm. Some seem to imply that they have lights that they would be pleased with and use more if the tint were better.

Sometimes it's a matter of just having a particularly purple or greenish tinted light that is bothersome.

My question is why not use a filter to correct those problems? Is it because you can't get into the head (as some are sealed) or because you don't want to put a filter on the outside of the lens (if the head is sealed)?

My personal experience with filtering a cool white LED to pass a more "neutral white" light out of the lens has shown me that, without applying a phosphor to the lens to convert some of the blue to warmer white colors, all I am doing it mixing colors with blue. I can make the tint a little better but it still doesn't come anywhere near what my true neutral white lights do.

Is it because the filter would reduce the output a bit (as does a neutral or warm tint)?

Not at all. It's because the colors never look "right". I wonder if I am actually lowering the CRI even lower when using filters instead of changing the LED.

Is it because you don't have filters or never thought about using them?

I'd be interested to hear everyones views on this subject.

I remember my first power LED light. It was a Streamlight PT2L and it used a cool white Cree XR-E. The tint of the LED was slightly purple but mostly white. Colors seemed to render mostly true.

Then I purchased an XP-G R5 light. The color was BLUE. Horrific blue. I hated that light.

Then I purchased an XP-G S2 light, not thinking clearly, which was even MORE blue.

Then I purchased my first neutral white LED light. The Spark SL6-740NW. The color of the light coming out of the end of that light looks exactly like the Philips 85122s in my car. ~4200K. I LOVE it. I will NEVER go back to cool white. It's worth the lumen loss. I have sold or given away all but one of my cool white lights. But, I have two new neutral white lights on the way so this YEZL Z1X is getting sold.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

gcbryan
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oldbobk wrote:

gcbryan,

      To me, the whiter tints make everything appear two dimensional. The neutrals and warms look more realistic to my eye, and make it easier to spot animals at night. This is mostly personal preference.

     On the question of filters, you posted a reference to Lee Filters, and a sample pack. I can't find that on their website. Can you direct me?

                                                                        Bob K

It's hard to find on there for sure. Here it is:

http://www.shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm;...

gcbryan
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Thanks for all the responses everyone.

robostud5000
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here's a link for Roscolux swatches, which i think are similar to the Lee swatches.

http://www.rosco.com/sbreqs/index.cfm

gcbryan
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Yes, both filter sets are similar. Lee Filters arrive faster than Rosco and they also have more diffusion filters.  I have both.

M3TAL_L0RD
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Can't get those Lee Filter samples cheaply to Finland Sad

But I bought www.ebay.com/itm/290618798246

 

  • Full CTS (converts 5500K to 2900K)
  • 1/2 CTS (converts 5500K to 3800K)
  • 1/4 CTS (converts 5500K to 4500K)
  • 1/8 CTS (converts 5500K to 4900K)
  • 1/8 CTO (converts 5500K to 4900K)
  • 1/8 CTB (converts 5500K to 3300K)
  • 1/8 Plusgreen (converts 5500K to roughly match fluorescent)

1/8 CTB (converts 5500K to 3300K) clearly can't be true.

agedbriar
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I got so used to my neutral white and cool white LED lights, that my old 55W halogen incan looks bloody red now.

I only had the chance to compare mine to the warm white C88 Q5 that I bought for my daughter, and the latter seemed to yield much less contrast (softer image) on green foliage to both of us.

gcbryan
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Those color filters that correct from 55000 to 3500 or whatever. ...I think they are pretty good but I'm not sure that they are designed for LED (I'm pretty sure they aren't designed for it). After all these are mainly for professional photography and the movie/theatrical industries.

I think these filter are pretty effective however. With LEDs you are generally just trying to even out (filter) the excessive blue. Whether you do it with a filter or phosphor I think it has the same result.

Personally, I'm a bit like Agedbrier. I don't mind most cool white and neutral white and don't care for warm. I used to dive with halogen lights and once powerful white LEDs were available it was so much better as far as being able to see detail. So I have little fondness for halogen. I also have a incan Surefire 6P that I received as a gift. It's 85 lumens but I can't see crap with it outside at night.

Since getting the filters however I have put light amber filters (after some testing) on some of my lights that have easy access to behind the lens. It's a subtle change. It makes the colors a bit truer. It's mainly an issue indoors however. I didn't have a problem with the colors rendition indoors but I experimented with the filters anyway using a red, white and blue soup can and the color with the amber filter appeared more true than with it so I left it on (you could notice the excessive blue without it).

The filters are also interesting if you just want a green (or whatever color light) just for some specific purpose and then you want to change it back to white.

M3TAL_L0RD
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I'm hoping 1/8 CTS/CTO would be enough to neutralize cool tint of UF-2100. I don't mind slight lumen loss.

gcbryan
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M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

I'm hoping 1/8 CTS/CTO would be enough to neutralize cool tint of UF-2100. I don't mind slight lumen loss.

I'm sure you'll like it. Be sure to post after you try it.

CheapThrills
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Got the SC51w and it´s bloody far from what I see as a neutral.

It is colored like Cafe latte, far from what I see as neutral. A regular, good R5 emitter or by luck a good T6 XM-L is far closer to what I consider as neutral, colorless white light.

 

Green is bad, angry blue is terrible, even my iTP A1 sucks because it´s bluish R2 tint. Same goes for Solarforce 3-mode R2 dropin, bad bad bad... (basic Q3 is fine, Q5 is usually a bit on the edge for me). 

Almost all of my R5 lights have been OK tint wise.

gcbryan
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CheapThrills wrote:

Got the SC51w and it´s bloody far from what I see as a neutral.

It is colored like Cafe latte, far from what I see as neutral. A regular, good R5 emitter or by luck a good T6 XM-L is far closer to what I consider as neutral, colorless white light.

 

Green is bad, angry blue is terrible, even my iTP A1 sucks because it´s bluish R2 tint. Same goes for Solarforce 3-mode R2 dropin, bad bad bad... (basic Q3 is fine, Q5 is usually a bit on the edge for me). 

Almost all of my R5 lights have been OK tint wise.

SC51w isn't supposed to be neutral is it? I thought w was for warm.

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gcbryan wrote:

CheapThrills wrote:

Got the SC51w and it´s bloody far from what I see as a neutral.

It is colored like Cafe latte, far from what I see as neutral. A regular, good R5 emitter or by luck a good T6 XM-L is far closer to what I consider as neutral, colorless white light.

 

Green is bad, angry blue is terrible, even my iTP A1 sucks because it´s bluish R2 tint. Same goes for Solarforce 3-mode R2 dropin, bad bad bad... (basic Q3 is fine, Q5 is usually a bit on the edge for me). 

Almost all of my R5 lights have been OK tint wise.

SC51w isn't supposed to be neutral is it? I thought w was for warm.

ZebraLight says it's neutral white

http://www.zebralight.com/SC51w-Flashlight-AA-Neutral-White_p_45.html

gcbryan
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Ah, I didn't know.

CEHepp
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CheapThrills wrote:

Got the SC51w and it´s bloody far from what I see as a neutral.

It is colored like Cafe latte, far from what I see as neutral. A regular, good R5 emitter or by luck a good T6 XM-L is far closer to what I consider as neutral, colorless white light.

 

Green is bad, angry blue is terrible, even my iTP A1 sucks because it´s bluish R2 tint. Same goes for Solarforce 3-mode R2 dropin, bad bad bad... (basic Q3 is fine, Q5 is usually a bit on the edge for me). 

Almost all of my R5 lights have been OK tint wise.

My ThruNite Neutron 2A in neutral white is like that. It has an amber color to the light. However, my XENO E03 and Spark SL6 are both a nice white. The Spark is roughly 4000K which has a nice slightly yellow tint like an automotive HID lamp and the XENO is pure white, I would say around 5000K.

Zebralight S6330 – Zebralight SC600w – Zebralight SC52 – Zebralight SC51w – EagleTac D25A Ti 219 – 4Sevens Quark Turbo AA2 219 – FourSevens Preon PenLight -

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They say that the zebra lights neutral is anything but neutral... they should be considered warm . The little s1 stainless steelblf light from ric at cnqg's is an overly warm neutral ..I can believe it's a neutral just not a super tint ..The xpg's have lots of interesting tints  and a nice mix of flod and throw .. reasons they still have my attention .

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                                  https://www.gty.org/

 

    Still selling diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

M3TAL_L0RD
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gcbryan wrote:

M3TAL_L0RD wrote:

I'm hoping 1/8 CTS/CTO would be enough to neutralize cool tint of UF-2100. I don't mind slight lumen loss.

I'm sure you'll like it. Be sure to post after you try it.

Original tint

 

1/8 CTO

 

1/8 CTS

 

Original isn't that blue, and later ones are also wrong color.

 

Original tint should be slightly blueish, 1/8 CTO kind of cream color, and 1/8 CTS has slight orange tint.

I'm gonna use 1/8 CTO "permanently", I like that slight creamy tint.

M3TAL_L0RD
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Ok, "proper" beamshot now Smile

Mouse over for 1/8 CTO.

 

At least IRL tint is little bit nicer.

gcbryan
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I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the pics.