HaikeLite XHP70 Thrower Prototype Sneak Preview

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Tac Gunner
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giorgoskok wrote:
Tac Gunner wrote:
Like the looks of this light as well. Will the led be mounted to on copper DTP star? I think a smooth reflector xhp35 hi would make a great thrower.

From the OP i suppose so :

Quote:
40mm Haike Copper DTP Emitter board

Thanks, I completely missed that when I first read it.
start90a
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Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity.
6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?

The Last Katun
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With what and how they will be covered the control buttons? I hope it is not a glued plate

MtnDon
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I’ll be watching this. I’d like an XHP70 and might like to see a choice of SMO and OP reflectors. I don’t hunt white walls. Wink

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Texas_Ace
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If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.

Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lend themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.

Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.

hIKARInoob
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Texas_Ace wrote:
If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.

Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lean themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.

Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.

Hello HaikeLite,

Not only do I agree with Mr. Ace, this seems to be the current trend as well. Manker is offering models with High CRI neutral white Nichia models, as well as Lumintop with the Tool Ti/Cu, Worm Cu and IYP365 models. Even mainstream Nitecore is offering the new TIP with these emitters… High CRI XHP70 would appeal to many here I think as well…

will34
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Specs looks good, amps to the LED, shelf thickness, DTP board are being mentioned which means you guys know your stuff. I’m curious about if you have made other flashlights before, maybe under another brand?

If you go with XHP-70, make sure to use the highest bin, and price it sensibly so it can compete with the Convoy L6.

If you go with XHP35 HI, target at least 450kcd because you’ll have two strong competitors from acebeam and trunite.

HaikeLite Official
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start90a wrote:
Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity. 6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?

Hi start90a

What do you mean by Shaved Dome?

6.5A drain to the Led.
Battery is 2S2P.

Thanks

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The Last Katun wrote:
With what and how they will be covered the control buttons? I hope it is not a glued plate

!http://i63.tinypic.com/358dx7t.jpg!

Metal plate with screws to cover the transparent button tight. Waterproof IPX8

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HaikeLite Official
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MtnDon wrote:
I’ll be watching this. I’d like an XHP70 and might like to see a choice of SMO and OP reflectors. I don’t hunt white walls. Wink

SMO will be an option.

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hIKARInoob
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HaikeLite Official wrote:
start90a wrote:
Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity. 6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?

Hi start90a

What do you mean by Shaved Dome?

6.5A drain to the Led.
Battery is 2S2P.

Thanks

This is shaving a dome, at 1 minute 10 seconds. Basically, you’re creating your own High Intensity version: slightly less lumens, but more lux.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRp8WxJsivw

HaikeLite Official
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hIKARInoob wrote:
HaikeLite Official wrote:
start90a wrote:
Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity. 6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?

Hi start90a

What do you mean by Shaved Dome?

6.5A drain to the Led.
Battery is 2S2P.

Thanks

This is shaving a dome, at 1 minute 10 seconds. Basically, you’re creating your own High Intensity version: slightly less lumens, but more lux.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRp8WxJsivw

Thanks for sharing this.

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KawiBoy1428
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XHP70 shaving…. IF you choose to shave the dome, make absolutely sure the surface you shave and any and all debri are clean clear or else you will have burn down, (debri) which will burn the emitter surface and smoke the reflector, causing a cloudy effect or possible emitter failure! I would leave it up to the end user to perform this at his or her want or need!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Texas_Ace
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
XHP70 shaving…. IF you choose to shave the dome, make absolutely sure the surface you shave and any and all debri are clean clear or else you will have burn down, (debri) which will burn the emitter surface and smoke the reflector, causing a cloudy effect or possible emitter failure! I would leave it up to the end user to perform this at his or her want or need!

Ditto, it is a simple mod for those that want it.

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I hope turbo on this light can be memorized for quick access one click turbo.
Since this dont seem like it will compete with the tn42 or the k70, I would think this light would be better with xhp70 thrower.
More lumens than those other two!

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hIKARInoob wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.

Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lean themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.

Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.

Hello HaikeLite,

Not only do I agree with Mr. Ace, this seems to be the current trend as well. Manker is offering models with High CRI neutral white Nichia models, as well as Lumintop with the Tool Ti/Cu, Worm Cu and IYP365 models. Even mainstream Nitecore is offering the new TIP with these emitters… High CRI XHP70 would appeal to many here I think as well…

High CRI helps more than extra lumens to see details in what you are looking at.
Once you’ve tried high CRI, you will never go back to low CRI.

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that light looks so cool – 680g is not bad for the size

The Miller
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This too looks very interesting
and I forgot: welcome to BLF!
I think it is very cool you engage with us and show not even finished lights. Also SMO reflectors siilnce that is the Nr 2 question for a XHP light here so it seems.
Yeah you made a heck of an entry, very cool to see this! Thanks.

crz6662
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Holy crap… Massive girth. Be nice as a host also….

HaikeLite Official
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Use a premium thermal paste/grease, make the mcpcb pocket tight to hold centering the LED and screw down the emitter board for better thermal transfer, and also not to allow the board to twist and possibly cut the LED leads, would be a couple other suggestions…if your not doing this already?

thanks for the suggestions. The internal design is like you said. Thumbs Up

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RollerBoySE
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The Miller wrote:
This too looks very interesting and I forgot: welcome to BLF! I think it is very cool you engage with us and show not even finished lights. Also SMO reflectors siilnce that is the Nr 2 question for a XHP light here so it seems. Yeah you made a heck of an entry, very cool to see this! Thanks.

+1

VERY welcome!

hIKARInoob
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HaikeLite Official wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Use a premium thermal paste/grease, make the mcpcb pocket tight to hold centering the LED and screw down the emitter board for better thermal transfer, and also not to allow the board to twist and possibly cut the LED leads, would be a couple other suggestions…if your not doing this already?

thanks for the suggestions. The internal design is like you said. Thumbs Up

So far you’re making a really good impression Smile
People are going to expect so much from your lights! Wink

Texas_Ace
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RollerBoySE wrote:
High CRI helps more than extra lumens to see details in what you are looking at. Once you’ve tried high CRI, you will never go back to low CRI.

Very true, just the other night we were exploring a creek after dark and playing with a hefty selection of lights.

An interesting comparison was the L6 vs S70. While they are virtually the same in lumens (S70 is slightly higher actually) and Kcd. When tested in the real world the S70 would throw a good ways but everything was washer out and at the far reaches of throw it was very hard to make out any details, you could just tell where the shore was and that was about it.

The L6 on the other hand was not even a high CRI, just a higher CRI and warmer 3A tint. At the same distance you could see the bushes, the rocks and the water quite easily. Even I was surprised how much of a difference it made with just a slightly warmer LED. My current king thrower is a DO1 with a ~5A XP-L high and it is amazing how well it cuts through the night and how clearly you can see what you are looking at compared to my other 1A tint throwers.

I am now on a high CRI kick and planning on swapping most of my lights over to them as soon as I find a good source.

/Off topic.

Nicolicous
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man I’m excited.

if this light beat Acebeam K70 in term of throw then i will get one for sure Big Smile

Nico -.-

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Wow, can’t wait for this to hit the streets! I hope it has a reasonable price tag and that it comes in with an option for something in the 4500k tint range. I suspect in the real world a SMO reflector would work great, who wall hunts with a light like this???

My D01 is fairly warm, de-domed XM-L2 and it really has good target definition and color rendition compared to other throwers that I own. I would guess it to be somewhere around 4500k, started as a 0D.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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hIKARInoob wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.

Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lean themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.

Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.

Hello HaikeLite,

Not only do I agree with Mr. Ace, this seems to be the current trend as well. Manker is offering models with High CRI neutral white Nichia models, as well as Lumintop with the Tool Ti/Cu, Worm Cu and IYP365 models. Even mainstream Nitecore is offering the new TIP with these emitters… High CRI XHP70 would appeal to many here I think as well…

Stocked XHP70s are N4 CW 6500K CRI68 and N2 NW 5000K CRI80.. What CRI number we can call it High CRI? above 85 or 90?

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pilotdog68
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I think what we call “High” usually means 90+, though 80+ is a good start

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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5000K CRI80 sounds quite nice. You lose about 20 % output when going all the way up to 90+, so 80 is a good middle ground.

Texas_Ace
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HaikeLite Official wrote:
Stocked XHP70s are N4 CW 6500K CRI68 and N2 NW 5000K CRI80.. What CRI number we can call it High CRI? above 85 or 90?

80cri is better then most but high CRI doesn’t really start till 90+ CRI around here. People also generally like it a bit warmer as well, 4000-4500k on the rosy side is a very popular tint for high CRI LED’s (or LED’s in general honestly).

I would take the 80cri over the 68 100% but I would also take a 90 CRI over the 80. On a light like this, lumens are not really an issue, a loss of a few hundred lumens is hardly even noticeable so I would gladly trade them for a better tint and CRI.

maukka
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Texas_Ace wrote:
People also generally like it a bit warmer as well, 4000-4500k on the rosy side is a very popular tint for high CRI LED’s (or LED’s in general honestly).

Yes, please don’t go to the evil green side of the black body radiator line Smile

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