HaikeLite XHP70 Thrower Prototype Sneak Preview

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mhanlen
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Tom E wrote:

Yea, wanted to get it out quick, figuring there were a lot of waiting. I believe mhanlen will be doing a review on it as well, or maybe that’s on the MT03 flooder – the flooder would be more up his alley since he’s done the Meteor and Olight X7 Marauder.

I thought I was getting the MT03, but I was surprised when I opened up the box and this one was there. I’m having trouble with battery fitment. I have button tops that work, but the battery tube doesn’t screw down all the way… So they suggested I try some HG2 flattops or 30Q flattops, and those do not seem to work. So now I have a ton of new batteries laying around. I feel like I’m just going to have to stick with button tops. I don’t think it would be possible to use protected cells in this light. I like it a lot, but it’s very specific with batteries. Probably be about 2 weeks or so before I finish my review.

leaftye
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I’m using batteries with brass buttons. The outer oring shows more than in Tom’s picture, which doesn’t seem ideal, but the flashlight works.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

mhanlen
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How did you get them to stick? Solder? Are they magnetic? It would just be great if I could find a battery that worked without modification. I put this stuff on my Youtube… and I like to be able to give people solid recommendations they don’t need to “rig” to get them to work properly.

leaftye
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I used solder. I think I got them from Richard. I should have done some prep work before I used them. They’re rough and gouge my SRK drivers. I’m trying to come up with a way to make thinner buttons with a more rounded profile, and hopefully a smoother finish, but my best plan involves using a vacuum fixture, and I don’t have a vacuum pump yet.

I also wish there were more button tops.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

mhanlen
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leaftye wrote:
I used solder. I think I got them from Richard. I should have done some prep work before I used them. They’re rough and gouge my SRK drivers. I’m trying to come up with a way to make thinner buttons with a more rounded profile, and hopefully a smoother finish, but my best plan involves using a vacuum fixture, and I don’t have a vacuum pump yet.

I also wish there were more button tops.

I have unprotected button tops in HE4, HG2, GAs, and while they all work, they’re just a millimeter or two too long, to get the tailcap tightened down all the way. It isn’t loose or anything. Thanks for the response…. looks like I’ll just be sticking with some buttons tops.

Tom E
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The regular flat top GA's work the best, fit the best - the tops protrude out a little, kind of like BASEN 26650's. I have no clue why they thought other flat tops would work - doesn't make sense to me. I told them I could not get them to work. Yes, 30Q BT's work, guess I didn't notice it much with the tailcap - the last o-ring was pretty much covered, but I tightened it up pretty good, but yes, not as tightened down as the GA's.

Seems like the light was made for GA's, and only GA's. The soldered low profile brass buttons would work well I'd Imagine.

Ohhh - stupid me. Forgot, I got sets of 4 of solder blobs cells, like SONY VTC6's and HG2's - they also work and fit perfect. I need them for SRK's and SRK style lights I have.

Tom E
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mhanlen wrote:
Tom E wrote:

Yea, wanted to get it out quick, figuring there were a lot of waiting. I believe mhanlen will be doing a review on it as well, or maybe that's on the MT03 flooder - the flooder would be more up his alley since he's done the Meteor and Olight X7 Marauder.

I thought I was getting the MT03, but I was surprised when I opened up the box and this one was there. I'm having trouble with battery fitment. I have button tops that work, but the battery tube doesn't screw down all the way... So they suggested I try some HG2 flattops or 30Q flattops, and those do not seem to work. So now I have a ton of new batteries laying around. I feel like I'm just going to have to stick with button tops. I don't think it would be possible to use protected cells in this light. I like it a lot, but it's very specific with batteries. Probably be about 2 weeks or so before I finish my review.

Funny, cause your BLF ID was on my box, so I figured they screwed it up and sent me the wrong one, but it turned out it was mine with the engraved "Tom E"... smile

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I tried some protected 35Es that are very long on the MT03. The tailcap doesn’t screw all the way in but the light works just fine as there’s no electrical path on the body.

unknown00101
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Given that info which cells would be optimal for MT03/MT07 (performance and fit-wise)?
30Q FT + solder / GA FT?

Nicolicous
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Sounds like this light got problematics >.<

Nico -.-

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You need semi raised cells. Its touchy its the plastic protector around the tabs its either to raised or to hard and will not flex enough with pressure. But button tops are to big but they will still work fine. My HG2s work fine. You can always bend the ends out on the batteries? You could use magnets fine because the contacts dont spin the tail cap PCB stays still when you loosen and tighten the light but it may not fit still?

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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You can always bend the ends out on the batteries?

Am I reading this correctly? Shocked
Like butcher the cells? Ouch boom

everydaysurvivalgear
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Yep it works they have some slack in them.

Tom E
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The 4S battery configuration version is now listed on the website - http://haikelite.top/index.php/haikelite-mt07-buffalo-cree-xhp70-flashlight-4s.html

The runtimes listed are still the same. Not sure if that's a copy/paste, or they didn't run the tests, or they are really the same.

unknown00101
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Tom E wrote:

The 4S battery configuration version is now listed on the website – http://haikelite.top/index.php/haikelite-mt07-buffalo-cree-xhp70-flashlight-4s.html


The runtimes listed are still the same. Not sure if that’s a copy/paste, or they didn’t run the tests, or they are really the same.


Same with the MT03 4S. I was told they would be ready next week, so hopefully shipping out next week? I’ve got a pair on order for review.

Did your GA FT cells fit the same as your other FT cells with solder blobs? I’m trying to decide on 30Q FT $30 and adding blobs vs GA FT $36 stock.

Tom E
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Uhh, Yes. Solder blob flats seem to fit the same as SANYO GA's as-is.

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unknown00101 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

The 4S battery configuration version is now listed on the website – http://haikelite.top/index.php/haikelite-mt07-buffalo-cree-xhp70-flashlight-4s.html


The runtimes listed are still the same. Not sure if that’s a copy/paste, or they didn’t run the tests, or they are really the same.


Same with the MT03 4S. I was told they would be ready next week, so hopefully shipping out next week? I’ve got a pair on order for review.

Did your GA FT cells fit the same as your other FT cells with solder blobs? I’m trying to decide on 30Q FT $30 and adding blobs vs GA FT $36 stock.

Personally I find that I use GA’s more and more now days. Simply because if I do not have a light box nearby I can’t even tell the difference in performance with the naked eyes and the extra runtime is great.

Tom E
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Yea, me too. I mostly use the GA's in the lights I'm using.

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4S and 2S2P option. My thoughts are what are you guys doing Haikelite? To whom are you trying to sell the 4S version, and to whom the 2S2P variant? Aren’t you guys going to get bombarded with questions what the difference between the two variants is? Or is this another change that you have implemented when realising that output is reduced with depleting battery charge? Seriously, from a business point of view this doesn’t make sense to me…

leaftye
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I’m finding burrs in the grooves. Threads could be better. With some minor improvements, this could be a great light. Start with a slightly longer battery tube, smoother threads, and either sharper tools or more deburring. You could sand blast more, but I think that will reduce thread quality. Maybe an acid dip?

I don’t care much about 2s or 4s, but that choice is probably going to cause lost sales. 4s is probably the better choice though.

I’d like to see a holster accessory. A kydex holster that puts the light in the head down position is my preference.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

Tom E
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I've been using a camera lens bag for it - at least it's protected well.

They intro'd the 4S after the 2S2P, but it's been available since the beginning. I was asked which one I'd prefer.

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Why would you chose the 4s over the 2s2p? If they are using a 6v led they will both have almost the same effency?

Tom E
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4S does true buck regulation, 2S2P doesn't. So 4S gives you amp regulation - this is what I was told at least, and I've seen other buck drivers behave like this as well.

unknown00101
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I would expect 4S to have flat, constant output instead of slowly trailing off like Tom detailed in his 2S2P review. The trailing off deal might actually be preferable to some as you’ll get longer run times and shouldn’t be able to see the slowly decreasing output unless you measure it.

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4S is better in every way, the real question is why someone would chose 2s2p IMO.

If it is a buck driver then 4S gives you constant output without voltage sag issues.

If the LED is 12V then there are less losses and thus more efficient and more light.

Either way, 4S wins.

Tom E
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I chose 2S2P because mostly think'n on upgrading to my own FET based driver. Dunno all the details but I don't mind voltage sag - longer runtimes, no sudden loss of output, no pulling high amps out of almost drained cells. Think all these things were said before...

Also they said protected cells are best with 4S, unprotected best with 2S2P. Hope protected cells can fit in the 4S light...

Texas_Ace
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Tom E wrote:

I chose 2S2P because mostly think’n on upgrading to my own FET based driver. Dunno all the details but I don’t mind voltage sag – longer runtimes, no sudden loss of output, no pulling high amps out of almost drained cells. Think all these things were said before…


Also they said protected cells are best with 4S, unprotected best with 2S2P. Hope protected cells can fit in the 4S light…

All those things you listed are in reference to 4S correct? As they would not apply to 2S.

Recommending unprotected cells for the 2s makes sense as it will pull higher amps.

Tom E
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Well let me try to make it clearer. 2S has longer runtimes than 4S because of drooping voltage. 4S will pull more amps, and will try to maintain high amps til the end of the cells -- that's how I understand it.

4S doesn't help much at the turbo level, since it gets too hot in under 10 minutes now in 2S2P, probably less time in 4S.

4S would help in lower modes I would think. It's all these crazy trade-offs goin on. Sure, 4S with constantly held output levels is nice, just can't be done on high amps because of high temps. There probably is a magic level of output that can level an operating temperature. Not sure they can hit that mark though, and probably dependent on other factors of air temperature, air movement, being held in hand, etc.

Dunno, I could be mis-understanding things, but I see pros/cons. If you want a nice stable low and medium mode of operation for the full discharge of the cells, 4S should be better for sure.

Texas_Ace
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Tom E wrote:

Well let me try to make it clearer. 2S has longer runtimes than 4S because of drooping voltage. 4S will pull more amps, and will try to maintain high amps til the end of the cells — that’s how I understand it.


4S doesn’t help much at the turbo level, since it gets too hot in under 10 minutes now in 2S2P, probably less time in 4S.


4S would help in lower modes I would think. It’s all these crazy trade-offs goin on. Sure, 4S with constantly held output levels is nice, just can’t be done on high amps because of high temps. There probably is a magic level of output that can level an operating temperature. Not sure they can hit that mark though, and probably dependent on other factors of air temperature, air movement, being held in hand, etc.


Dunno, I could be mis-understanding things, but I see pros/cons. If you want a nice stable low and medium mode of operation for the full discharge of the cells, 4S should be better for sure.

I think you are mixing them up backwards. First off there is a big difference if it is a buck or linear driver. I will talk about a buck driver here although the same things apply to a linear driver, just to a much lesser extent.

2s has very little voltage overhead and thus voltage sag will cause output to drop rather quickly. 4S will never drop output till the cells are nearly empty with a buck driver.

Total runtime will be very close between the setups as the total watt hours is held in the cells is the same. The 2S will have a bit more losses to heat due to the amperage but that will be a small issue by comparison.

2S will pull twice the amps for a given output wattage. If the XHP70 is outputting ~50w then it is pretty simple to see this.

7v x 7 amps = 49W of power

14V x 3.5 amps = 49W of power

Higher voltage = less amps

From an eletrical standpoint 4S is the far superior setup in all cases assuming either a buck driver or that you run multiple LED’s in series to make use of the voltage. Higher voltage is simply better.

Thats why electrical lines run hundreds of thousands of volts over the mains and only step it down to 220v at the last minute. Lower voltage is less efficient.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Tom E wrote:

Well let me try to make it clearer. 2S has longer runtimes than 4S because of drooping voltage. 4S will pull more amps, and will try to maintain high amps til the end of the cells — that’s how I understand it.


4S doesn’t help much at the turbo level, since it gets too hot in under 10 minutes now in 2S2P, probably less time in 4S.


4S would help in lower modes I would think. It’s all these crazy trade-offs goin on. Sure, 4S with constantly held output levels is nice, just can’t be done on high amps because of high temps. There probably is a magic level of output that can level an operating temperature. Not sure they can hit that mark though, and probably dependent on other factors of air temperature, air movement, being held in hand, etc.


Dunno, I could be mis-understanding things, but I see pros/cons. If you want a nice stable low and medium mode of operation for the full discharge of the cells, 4S should be better for sure.

I think you are mixing them up backwards. First off there is a big difference if it is a buck or linear driver. I will talk about a buck driver here although the same things apply to a linear driver, just to a much lesser extent.

2s has very little voltage overhead and thus voltage sag will cause output to drop rather quickly. 4S will never drop output till the cells are nearly empty with a buck driver.

Total runtime will be very close between the setups as the total watt hours is held in the cells is the same. The 2S will have a bit more losses to heat due to the amperage but that will be a small issue by comparison.

2S will pull twice the amps for a given output wattage. If the XHP70 is outputting ~50w then it is pretty simple to see this.

7v x 7 amps = 49W of power

14V x 3.5 amps = 49W of power

Higher voltage = less amps

From an eletrical standpoint 4S is the far superior setup in all cases assuming either a buck driver or that you run multiple LED’s in series to make use of the voltage. Higher voltage is simply better.

Thats why electrical lines run hundreds of thousands of volts over the mains and only step it down to 220v at the last minute. Lower voltage is less efficient.

Lol, you two kill me. I like fet based drivers because I usually push for max output but I’ve got two lights that have the same battery carriers that are set up 4s so to keep from having to change up the carriers I’m going to have to go with a buck driver. I plan on putting a XHP35 in one and a XHP50 in the other. It’s easy to mod a light with a fet and a 6v led set up but I’m finding it a little more difficult with a buck and a 12v setup. I know I probably can’t push the XHP35 over 2.5a but I have no clue on the XHP50.

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