Olight S Mini

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Jack Kellar
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ToyKeeper wrote:
MAD TM26 wrote:
Just did a quick run time test on high with my new Eagletac 16340 but why did the LVP on my cell kicked in? Don’t this S Mini have any LVP?

Reactivated my 16340 and got a reading of 3.06V!?

That’s my biggest complaint about the S10/S1/S-Mini series. Because it supports CR123A cells, there is no LVP. Sad

CR123A has a usable range of like 3.6V down to 1.0V, and apparently they sag a lot during use, and the driver doesn’t try to guess which type of cell it’s using. So it’ll happily drain an unprotected 16340 cell until it’s damaged.

At the very least, it could have a voltage readout mode… even if it doesn’t know when to stop for LVP purposes. Then I could know when to recharge the cell, without having to take it out all the time to check with a DMM.


I can only thank providence that the S2 doesn’t have that problem.

MAD TM26
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ToyKeeper wrote:
MAD TM26 wrote:
Just did a quick run time test on high with my new Eagletac 16340 but why did the LVP on my cell kicked in? Don’t this S Mini have any LVP?

Reactivated my 16340 and got a reading of 3.06V!?

That’s my biggest complaint about the S10/S1/S-Mini series. Because it supports CR123A cells, there is no LVP. Sad

CR123A has a usable range of like 3.6V down to 1.0V, and apparently they sag a lot during use, and the driver doesn’t try to guess which type of cell it’s using. So it’ll happily drain an unprotected 16340 cell until it’s damaged.

At the very least, it could have a voltage readout mode… even if it doesn’t know when to stop for LVP purposes. Then I could know when to recharge the cell, without having to take it out all the time to check with a DMM.


Wouldn’t had bought this had I known this before hand Tired


Is 3.06V the normal cut-off voltage?

we buy light for a brighter tomorrow

ToyKeeper
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MAD TM26 wrote:
Is 3.06V the normal cut-off voltage?

No, the cell’s protection circuit will generally kick in at around 2.7V.

I prefer to recharge once it gets somewhere between 3.0V and 3.4V, since li-ion cells are almost completely empty at that point anyway, and they stay healthy longer when the charge is kept near the middle. Keeping them at >99% or <1% reduces the lifespan-in-years faster.

It’s worth noting that, after load is removed, a drained cell will often recover somewhat to a higher voltage. It’s not weird that a cell would shut itself off at 2.7V then recover to 3.06V after a little while. I try not to drain my cells far enough for this rebound effect to happen though.

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I usually do not drain my Li-Ion past 3.7V just this one because I didn’t know this little gem isn’t really that good (no LVP) Sad

I measured the charge within a couple of minutes after the light shut down.

Thanks for the heads up TK.

we buy light for a brighter tomorrow

rookiedaddy
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Received a pleasant surprise today from Olight…

with my name engraved on it…

I think I’ll keep the light pristine in the seal.

what’s more, the hand-written greetings is simply heart warming…


still changing sig ::
emarkd
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Awesome, very cool. I’m jealous. They did the titanium S1’s last year and my personalized gift is also sitting unused because I don’t want to scratch it up. I didn’t review for them this year so I missed out. A personalized copper light would be awesome with some patina on it though.

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Wow so Olight USA makes some Christmas gifts to their reviewers ?
I’m a bit jealous there Crying

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DB Custom
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That’s a nice move on Olights part, nice card, nice gift. Well done all around I’d say…

Dale

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Nice of them, still damn shame this lights dont have a magnetic tailcap otherwise i would have bought one ugh..

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My GF ordered the rainbow Ti. for me, for Christmas and I got it this past Friday. It’s a nifty little light and I do mean little. My ET D25C Ti. clicky dwarfs it and forget about my SWM M11R and V11R.

It’s got the four modes, but once you click out of ML, you’re going to have to reacquire it by turning the light off and holding the button for 2 seconds. If you turn off the light in ML, it will come back on in ML.

Locking out the switch is a 3 second press from off position and the 10Hz strobe is a few rapid presses on the button.

I’m not worried about the lvp, as I check my sells often.

I like the gaudy color scheme.

Chris

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I found the rainbow Ti on a good sale and grabbed one. It doesn’t have the engraving I wanted, and the randomized colors ended up with more yellow than I had hoped, but it’s still a nice little light. I usually have it or the copper model clipped to me. I generally only want moon or low mode, with occasional medium, and it’s very good at that. Plus, it’s small enough it isn’t really noticeable when I’m not using it.

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Mine was $63ish on Ebay, but there was a ‘make an offer’ option, so I offered $55 shipped and it was accepted. $55 is a lot less than the copper, rose gold and black versions go for, so I was happy.

I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets, so I generally EDC smaller lipstick type lights and this fits the bill like my others that I reference just above.

Chris

rjuarez32
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Is anyone else having an issue running the olight orb-163P03 rcr123a battery with this? Mine immediately shuts off as soon as I enter turbo mode. Thanks!

ChrisGarrett
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rjuarez32 wrote:
Is anyone else having an issue running the olight orb-163P03 rcr123a battery with this? Mine immediately shuts off as soon as I enter turbo mode. Thanks!

How old is your Olight 16340 (3.6v/3.7v?) and how many cycles do you have on it?

You might have an older, more tired cell on your hands. I’m strictly running IMR chemistries, either from AWT, AW or Efest in my lipstick lights. I don’t care about runtime, but some of these lights hit close to 3A on high/turbo and I just feel more comfortable with the manganese based cells.

In the case of Ven’s S2+ Triple Convoy that he got me, with LD-2 driver board that hits 6A on direct drive high, so ICR type chemistries aren’t going to work.

Heck, most IMRs won’t work in that particular application. Look for some of the names I mention: AW, AWT and Efest, depending on where you live.

Good luck.

Chris

rjuarez32
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Sorry man. I’m really new to the light/battery world. The batteries are new. I bought it with the nitecore d2 charger. It says it charges up to about 4.3v but it has 3.7 on the label. Does this help?

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rjuarez32 wrote:
Sorry man. I’m really new to the light/battery world. The batteries are new. I bought it with the nitecore d2 charger. It says it charges up to about 4.3v but it has 3.7 on the label. Does this help?

I know the D2 and we all started out as beginners, so welcome to the hobby.

4.30v coming hot off the charger is a tad high, but should settle down to around 4.20v (+/- .05v) after say 20 minutes. You should probably buy a digital multi meter for checking things, if you’re going to be playing with this stuff. Trust, but verify and all of that noise.

3.6v/3.7v is just the nominal voltage for lithium-ion cells that we use in most lights. These cells come hot off the charger at ~4.20v. Some chemistries are 3.8v (4.35v hot off the charger) and still yet, some are 3.2v (3.60v hot off the charger,) so things can get confusing.

What you have, I refer to as a ‘16340’ 3.7v cell, which varies in voltage from the dimensionally similar RCR123, which covers the 3.2v offerings (equivalent to the CR123A primary lithium cells for cameras/lights.)

Anyhow, getting back to your cell crapping out on ‘turbo.’ Maybe it’s just a bad cell, as it seems to be cutting off immediately and not lasting say 5 minutes?

I’d still look for the IMR chemistry 16340s and try an Efest, AW or AWT, whatever quality IMR cell you can find and see if it isn’t the light that is at issue?

You have to start ruling things out.

Chris

rjuarez32
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Wow. You are awesome. Thanks so much for the help. The light either turns off immediately or steps down after about 3 seconds. I’ll grab an imr cell. I’ll keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks again for your help!

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FWIW, I run my S-mini with a Trustfire IMR 16340 from FastTech (the red ones) and never had any shut off of the light.
With the Olight 16340 however…even my S1 trips the protection of the Olight batts !

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Those are pretty cool looking.

"He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."

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On my S-Mini, it will refuse to go into turbo if the cell voltage isn’t high enough. The cell type generally makes a lot of difference for this sort of thing, since they typically come in either high-capacity or high-amperage varieties. The high-capacity ones get a lot more voltage sag, so they stop being able to do turbo sooner.

fonfan
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Smini brass received without sealed pack. When olight will produce polished and sandblasted stainless steel smini? It will the best EDC.

WANTED Zebralights. My flashlights

mortuus
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fonfan wrote:
Smini brass received without sealed pack. When olight will produce polished and sandblasted stainless steel smini? It will the best EDC.

they should do a new version of the sbaton/mini, felt that the s mini was pointless more or less it didnt do anything better then older s1 baton did and wihout magnetic clip kinda pointless to justify buy.

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Still love my bb ti. Small, nice looking and the interface is still one of the best.

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I love my Smini Sus…but please… Olight!!! when the Smini in aluminium?

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Trevi_lux wrote:
I love my Smini Sus…but please… Olight!!! when the Smini in aluminium?

Yes, this !
What I love from my S-mini : the size obviously, the UI (much faster and usable than the S1), the brightness
What I don’t like : The clip that is not adjustable, no magnet (but you can use the S1 tailcap), the lack of an alu version

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From the S1 to the S-mini, they made a few changes that I consider upgrades:

  • Smaller size.
  • Clip stays in one place, doesn’t rotate and scratch the host.
  • Clip “fingers” removed and hex shape of head converted to round, so things don’t stick out any more.
  • Clip has a rounded lift point instead of square lift; less likely to catch on things.
  • Lanyard hole added to clip.

I don’t really care either way about the magnet. It was useful sometimes, but I also had to take care to keep it away from magnet-sensitive materials, and it got the tail scratched up a lot faster.

It’d be nice to have an aluminum version, and would be nice if *all* versions were available in neutral white.

Would also be nice if they’d let me upgrade the firmware to give it battcheck (at minimum). Ideally also optional ramping, reversing, configurable number of levels, and some extra blinky modes.

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Geuzzz wrote:
Still love my bb ti. Small, nice looking and the interface is still one of the best.

This is a bit off topic but I’m looking for a little sympathy. And you folks seem like you’ll appreciate what I have, er… had, er… still have but…

I hate olight for glueing their lights!
I purchase an s30 ti sandblasted limited addition from eBay
It wouldn’t turn on.
I hate olight for gluing their lights!
I thought I could fix it.
I thought, hmm… titanium, that sounds indestructible.
Heat gun, leather strap, vice slip, scratched, more heat gun.
Titanium light in pieces, faded from the heat.
Did I mention, I hate olight for gluing their lights!
Driver test=working fine
Led test=working fine
What!

Ok, that’s pretty much my story. The scratch is small but bothers me. The color faded a bid from the heat though one might not notice without another one to compare. The kicker though, is that there wasn’t anything wrong with the light. I think it was simply a poor contact somewhere. Idk? So now I’m trying to decide what to do with it. sigh

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If the S30 is like the S10, isn’t the bezel a screw-in type? I have a S10 ti and IIRC the bezel unscrews relatively easily by pressing it against a sheet of rubber and twisting.

Or if it’s like the S1, it might be a press fit? I’ve been meaning to mod my copper S-mini with a neutral white emitter… already have the emitter somewhere around here, but I haven’t pulled the bezel off yet to do the mod. It should only need a disposable knife and some patient, gentle prying.

Geuzzz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’ve been meaning to mod my copper S-mini with a neutral white emitter… already have the emitter somewhere around here, but I haven’t pulled the bezel off yet to do the mod. It should only need a disposable knife and some patient, gentle prying.

Just do it Cool . These light are so mich nicer with a good tint. The neutral that olight used was also crap. Replaced mine with a 5D and it’s just such a nice edc.

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The S30 bezel is screwed, at least it is n the Alu version.
But Olight love treadlock, and use a ton of it (the red one) so you have to use brute force to unscrew it.
Rubber inner tube from a bicycle and a vise plier will get it but be gentle or the pliers will go through the rubber and scratch the surface Shocked

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

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