Review: ThorFire S1 Diving Light

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JohnnyMac
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Review: ThorFire S1 Diving Light

Thorfire S1 Diving Light

*S1 flashlight provided for review courtesy of Thorfire

Thorfire has updated an older model in their lineup of generally great quality lights.  When they asked for voluntary reviewers of this new "monster light" (their words, not mine) I was intrigued and volunteered.  Now I've read and seen generally good, if not glowing, reviews of this light and can't help but wonder..."what??". 

I'm just going to start off with what I don't like about the light along with negatives I've noticed about it.  Let me preface this all by stating that in general, I'm a big fan of Thorfire lights.  Their S70 is one hell of a well made and well performing flashlight and is one of my favorite torches I have.  If this didn't say "Thorfire" on the box and light I'd say you were full of shit about it being one of theirs.  I've not seen a single review (not that I recall reading, however) where this S1 received any negative comments.  Perhaps I got the only lemon in the basket but I have a few negatives to remark about.

Cons:

  • Let me start this off with a biggie to me.  Mine has quite a bit of water condensation under each of the lenses.  This is a diving light and it already looks like someone took it diving and it leaked, they sent it back to Thorfire, and Thorfire restocked it as new.  Everything seems extremely tightly screwed on and I could not get into this light at all.  I gave up before damaging it.  Is it waterproof? Who knows?  It feels like it should be extremely waterproof judging by the body to head joint seal.  I can't say the same about the lens bezels and seals.  Can't get them off and like I said, they have moisture already in them.
  • Very thin anodizing.  Many of the edges on the fins have anodizing worn off of them
  • Machining looks like the head and body were made in two different shops.  Lots of machining grooves in areas of the head, in particular on the side wells between the finned areas.  Little gouges in the head that I rarely see on lights these days, even the budget ones.  The battery tube looks pretty good with nice anodizing but the lanyard holes are not chamfered on the edges and they are extremely sharp and I could see them cutting through a lanyard.  not what you want in a diving light where a lanyard is a must.
  • 2000 lumens makes a "monster light"?  Not in my world  Aside from the newer XP-L emitters, everything about this torch feels really dated.  It is a clone of the Niteye 30 from several years ago.
  • The magnetic control ring feels very crude.  Holding the light by the handle (as intended) the ring cannot be turned using your thumb like it can on nearly every other magnetic control ring flashlight I have (ThruNite, Jetbeam, Acebeam, etc).  You actually have to use two hands just to change modes.  If you hold it by the body like a regular flashlight you can find a position where two fingers can turn the ring.  It actually clunks going into the highest setting instead of a neat "snick" like other control ring lights I have.
  • The handle appears like it should be removable but my sample is cranked on hard.  I damaged the slots a bit trying to no avail to unthread the retaining bolt for it. The handle does have some side-to-side play if you twist the handle.
  • HEAVY!  This is the Mamma June of flashlights.  It is 685g (1.5lbs) and  without batteries and 865g with 4 cells.  That's almost 2 lbs! (1.9)
  • The handle could be a little bigger.  My pinkie finger hangs off the back when I'm holding it.
  • No type of reverse polarity protection in the cell carrier itself.  Now I don't make a habit of installing batteries incorrectly but I would assume that a carrier would have some basic type of reverse polarity protection.  A tiny diode in the PCB in the carrier perhaps.  Maybe none of them do and I've just been lucky enough to not be unlucky all these years.  I was talking to the little lady while loading cells into the cartridge and damned if I didn't put the last one in backwards.  Fortunately the cathode spring on that last cell was weaker than the rest and it went nuclear before melting completely and falling off before I could even yank the cell.  A trip to the soldering station and all was well again once a new spring was put in.  This last negative might be one that all cell carriers have,  I don't know and I'm not about to test and find out.

Pros (it does have a few):

  • Just under 2000 lumens but the deep SMO reflectors give this S1 pretty good throw for a light like this.  I measured 39.6kcd and 398m of throw.  Not bad for a light that isn't a thrower.  At least I don't think it is.
  • No visible PWM.
  • Built like a tank (as it should be at 685g empty).  If I needed a torch to go into a fight with this is the one I'd probably grab first.  You can cave a skull in with it.
  • Refreshingly simple UI with just three output levels.
  • Tail stands like a champ!  Wide base with tripod crenellations coupled with the mass it has makes this almost an earthquake proof tail-stander.
  • I really dig the color of the anodizing
  • The laser engraving for the logo is well done

Thorfire Product Page Copy

========================================
Specifications

Material: durable aircraft Aluminum
Modes: High/Mid/Low, 3 modes
Bulb Lifetime: With a lifespan of 100,000 hours
Battery: 4x 18650 3.7v batteries(Not Included)
Size: approx 155mm (Length) * 56mm(Body Diameter) * 73mm(Head Diameter)
Weight: 685-gram weight (Excluding the battery)

NOTE: The light was tightened for diving test. Please find a helper if you find it difficult to unscrew the light.

Best Diving flashlight
This Diving Flashlight is an extremely versatile, Super Bright. The max diving depth is 70m under water. It is fit for diving and scuba. Designed for the professional divers or under water Photographer.

NOTE: Every flashlight passed our test under the same pressure of 100m underwater.

Easy to Operate
The middle rotary switch controls all the functions, rotate switch in anti clockwise direction, the light starts from High, keep rotating it goes to medium and low. Rotate in clockwise direction to go back and turn off. Easy to be controlled by operation of user.

Comfortable Appearance Design
It is make out of durable aircraft-grade aluminum body. The handle is wide enough to hold on, very comfortable and convenient.

Intend Use
It is mainly used for diving works, Underwater fishing operations, Salvage operations Underwater archaeological work, Teaching Scuba diving. Also it is an ideal choice for outdoor activities, Such as fishing, diving, swimming, hiking, sailing, caving, hunting and seeking survival without fear of rainy days.

Package includeds
1 * ThorFire S1 diving flashlight
1 * User Manual
2 * O-rings
=========================================

PERFORMANCE AND UI

Thorfire claims 2000 lumens for the S1 and they are pretty much spot on once you consider variations in individual components and LEDs.  Throw is not bad at just under 400m.  Low mode for a regular flashlight would be more of a medium level but for a diving light this might be perfect and I suspect it is.  There is no visible PWM at all so that's a good thing, right?

The user interface is really simple.  Hold the light by the handle and, using your other hand (hopefully free), turn the silver control ring counter-clockwise until it ratchets into Low mode. Turn it some more until it pops into Medium.  Another crank in the same direction and it will clunk into High mode.  Rotate the ring clockwise to reverse the modes and return to the Off position.  There are no blinky modes.  No hidden modes either.  Pure and simple.  I just wish the ring was more refined and smoother.  It feels like operating an old dump truck transmission.

DETAILS AND CLOSER LOOK

^ A decent full-color box shall greet you when you open your delivery  Nice change from all the plain manila colored boxes with black only printing on them that other lights come in.  I do kind of prefer the plain, straight to business boxes though.  Still, the cardboard is thick and the box was only lightly tuned up on the corners.

^ Main specifics are printed on the one side of the box.

^ Inside is a fitted foam liner that holds the light very securely.  Actually kind of pain to get the light out.  The only extras that come with the S1 are two spare O-rings and an instruction manual written in English and Chinese.

^ Decent, to the point instructions but wrong.  The manual says mode order is from High to Low when turning the control ring counter-clockwise.  It's actually from Low to High.

^ The S1 is a near exact clone of the Niteye 30 and has actually been in production for a few years.  It's a very dated design, IMO, and a bit long in the tooth.

^ I actually do like the look of the battery tube and tripod crenellations in the tail cap.  It feels good in the hand but is a bit slippery and definitely requires the use of the handle.

^ Three Cree XP-L emitters are the only apparent update to this model.  The reflectors are very deep and smooth.  They actually throw very well but the spill is not too smooth and has defined rings of brightness as it fades out to the edges.

^ The individual bezels are stainless steel and extremely beefy.  They are also sealed from the factory and I was unable to remove them without risk of damaging the light.

^ Here is where the big issue comes in and why this, more than any other reason, is why I'm giving this sample a terrible review.  Note the highlighted text in the instruction manual above.  Apparently Thorfire puts each light through a water test before approving it for sale.

^ Every single reflector and lens in my sample has heavy moisture inside it behind the lens.  Clicking the pic and viewing a larger image will make it easier to see.  It obviously did not pass the diving test but went unnoticed by their QC.  The instructions also state that the lights are sealed at the factory which is why I am unable to open anything other than the battery compartment.

^ The handle is fairly comfortable and is almost long enough to fit my hand.  I get 3 and a half fingers in it at best.

^ The handle appears that it would be removable based on the large double-slotted bolt cap securing the handle to the head.  It should actually be removable with nothing more than a large coin.  I tried budging the bolt with both a quarter and a large screw driver but when I only ended up marring the aluminum I gave up.  Not worth messing it up.

^ The fins on the corners of the head are nicely machined but the anodizing is super thin and bare aluminum is exposed on many of the edges.

^ The control ring blends in nicely with the head of the light.  Small surface imperfections in the host made prior to anodizing can be found if you look carefully.

^ Not the grippiest design machined into the battery tube but it does feel good in the hand and looks pretty snazzy.

^ The S1 tail stands like a champ thanks to the 3 crenellated "legs" on it.  The large lanyard cutouts are not chamfered on the opening edges and are very sharp.  They could easily wear and cut through a lanyard cord which I would imagine anyone using the light diving would have on it.

^ With the battery tube removed we can see the back of the head.  A large anode spring sits in the center with a large, plastic insulating ring is pressed in tightly.  There are two holes that look like grip points to unscrew it but it only spins and won't unscrew to see the driver board.  I suppose I could have forced the issue but would only have destroyed it.  As it is I gouged it up a bit when the needle-nose pliers slipped repeatedly once the ring refused to turn further.

^ The battery cartridge holds four 18650 cells.  It sits about flush with the battery tube with only the anode contact sticking out.

^ Inside the tube you can see the ground ring where the anodizing is machined off allowing the ground current from the battery carrier to the body of the light.

^ The cells are arranged in parallel (4P).

^ As you can see there is plenty of room for any 18650 cell you choose to use, even the longest protected cells.  I measured the maximum length that would fit and with the spring fully compressed a 72mm cell will actually fit inside.

^ Another look at the carrier without cells.

^ The control ring has two large "nubs" sticking out from it for gloved hands to easily grab the ring and turn it.

^ The majority of weight if behind the handle.  It feels balanced when held by the handle.

^ Compared to a few other lights to get a feel for the size.  It seems on the long side for a compact triple but it is an old design and shows it's age.

CONCLUSION

I'm sorry, Thorfire, I can't recommend this light based on my sample.  It has some good points but there are just too many negative aspects in general.  Enjoy the review folks, this could be my last Thorfire light that the manufacturer sends me for review.  I hope they take my criticism to heart and work to improve on the points I brought up.  It's constructive criticism.  I realize that there have been plenty of great reviews for this light but I honestly don't understand how.  Thorfire is capable of making some extremely impressive lights and I know they are better than this.  It's an old design and, frankly, I'd say it's time to put it out to pasture and come up with a better one.  I know you can do it!

MRsDNF
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Thanks JM. A lot will be said about Thorfire if they take you of their review list. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

flydiver
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Sour grapes here, how come the divers don’t get to dive light reviews? Big Smile
If it was going to flood, we’d sure reveal that problem fast. Evil

If it’s REALLY a dive light, then that’s the primary criteria. Everything else, though important, is just that…..everything else.

Other than that minor omission, good review.

Note – their instructions to open it up and that it might be tight for the diving test. Does it have an O-ring that slides over a smooth surface, or an O-ring that seals between 2 mating halves. If the former than tightness should not be an issue.

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Mine works as a dive light quite nicely. I tied a tag line on it and tossed it out into 20 some feet of water and let it sit all night on the lake bottom. Lens are crystal clear with no fogging. If you really felt you needed to tie a lanyard to the slots in the tail, a metal ring should be used. Aside from the edges, the slots are too narrow. A lanyard is much better suited through the large holes in the handle. Glad the handle is tight, and if it wasn’t, I would locktite it on. Cannot be compared to land lights in any way IMO. This amount of weight is not a consideration in the water.

I personally really like the light, and so does my neighbor up at Lake Michigan. He dives for a living doing recovery, moorings, and pier work.

JohnnyMac
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I can only base my review on my sample and with water already in the head from factory testing it is a fail. I figure I got a bum sample but that’s what was sent so that’s what is reviewed. It seems as if it should be good underwater if there were no issues with waterproofing. How is the control ring on your and your friends? Amazon sells it for under $100 and they claim list is over $250. Build quality is just not there, even for a $100 light. I’m glad yours was a good one.

everydaysurvivalgear
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I think condensation is normal in diving lights. Probably just had air that couldn’t escape. Gopros also get condensation in there waterproof housing.

hIKARInoob
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It’s ironic how they state that it might be hard to unscrew the body, as it was tightened for the diving test. It is a standard construction just like for example the Skyray King, with the exception that it uses two rings. Water resistance has nothing to do with how tight you screw the battery tube on the body; greasing the rings helps water proofing, but not how hard you tighten the battery tube…

JohnnyMac
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
I think condensation is normal in diving lights. Probably just had air that couldn’t escape. Gopros also get condensation in there waterproof housing.

I see what you are saying. I’d like to know if anyone else had moisture in the head from the factory. If I could open it and dry it out I might try that but it all seems to be glued tight from the factory. Again though, moisture in the head isn’t the only issue with his light. Build quality is nowhere as good as my S70, for example. Rough control ring and poor anodizing are other issues to name a few.
RobertB
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There’s no excuse TF sending you a bum sample, but a purchaser would send back to amazon, and get a replacement, I think the quality is there. The light is built like a tank, which is what a diver needs. No amount of anodizing is going to survive being beat and banged around, but this light should. Especially with the stainless steel bezels. My neighbor used my light on 3 dives, at my request, inspecting some mooring anchors. He liked the magnetic ring switch. Found it easy to use with gloves on.

I plan on using it to drop off the side of the boat to attract fish at night.

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I don’t believe my review sample had any condensation or fogging. I’ll have to take another look and check back in.

I also noted the roughness of the control ring in my review, that aspect of it definitely feels unrefined. Anyone try to spray some lube (chain lube, WD40, etc) around the ring?

flydiver
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gchart wrote:
Anyone try to spray some lube (chain lube, WD40, etc) around the ring?

WD40 is a poor lube. It’s a water displacement, WD, get it?
Generally not a good idea to use petroleum products of any sort around dive lights, if you want them to remain water tight. The O-rings are often petroleum based, like dissolves like > it eats them.

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Agreed, and I have no intentions of using mine underwater, though water resistance is always a good thing.

I’m not too big on WD40 either (for lubrication), I was just trying to think of something thin even that would work it’s way under the ring.

Sidenote, I looked specifically for condensation last night and couldn’t see any in my light.

flydiver
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Is the battery compartment sealed off from the light head? I would doubt it.
Open it up, put it in a large container with a bunch of desiccant and let it sit a few days. Slightly warm would be beneficial (heating pad on low, top of a running computer, etc).

Or pack the battery compartment with them, and change out a couple times. I save the little ‘pillows’ from medication/vitamin/etc. containers just for such a purpose. You can renew them with warm dry heat. Warm an oven to low, turn it off and put them inside for 30” or so. Keep in a sealed jar.

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I am not sure i got the TD26 so i can not comment. Mine was dry but i would suppose with the flashlight being hot and the water cold you could possibly get condensation from trapped air? I took mine underwater and it was fine. I think my head is sealed lol i am just thinking there is probably a few people who would really want to seal my actual head! I put a video up of mine being used underwater. Its one of those things you have to use it to understand it i guess. I scratched my anodizing but that was my fault i fell and hit the light lol.

I will also add if you can get your light apart it would be awesome to mod imagine the output it could handle with all that weight.

!DSC_0879!

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Wauw you got some balls there Johnny! Receiving a light with water on the inside (though very hard to see, you actually say water on the lens and reflectors, dang just on one lens or reflector would have been enough for me to contact Thorfire and ask what is up) you bravely go on! And you even go on with such confidence you put a cell in the holder the wrong way. Man I would be on my toes and start with a drained cell just to see what is going to happen.

I see you did not try to remove the bezels as ferocious as the plastic part covering the driver or the handle. The pics do show that you got rid of the water, how did you do that?

Ah and of course, what did Thorfire say about the issues?

flydiver
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Doesn’t look air tight. Small holes in the pill, probably a crack around the edges of it. Pretty low air exchange though. Drying it out would take awhile.

FWIW I have a sealed diopter (magnifying lens for dive camera) that has been on hoards of dives. When I rinse it in warm water it fogs a little. Goes away as soon as it’s cooled off. This is a typical problem with dive camera gear. We often put desiccants inside the housing to prevent this. Going from warm>cold may create condensation if the warm air had a lot of moisture.

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Nah, the water is still in there. To get those bezels off I’d have to make a special tool. Pliers and snap ring pliers don’t do the trick. I think they are glued on for better seal.

I told Thorfire to expect an unhappy review but haven’t heard back yet. Not everyone who gets free review lights is afraid to be honest and unbiased. I always call it like I see it and always will. I told them to take it as constructive criticism. The light has great mass but aside from the water in it the quality overall just isn’t there. Lots of potential with this light but not in my sample. I know some feel I was unfair but it is what it is. We’ll see how they take it. I was hard on Thrunite once or twice but they still love me. Silly

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Hmm it is still there, maybe fill the tube with rice?

The Miller
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And, did you get the water out?

I checked mine out a little more closely, had given it to my son since it is so sturdy and stays cool no matter how long it is on. This feels really safe and nice.

There is no water.
And thanks to your attempts I did not try to remove the handle since I want to keep it looking nice. After giving the handle a lot of force yes it is possible to move it a little bit, it is not visble (the end of the handle moves maybe a quarter of a millimeter but it can be felt.

Then a funny thing, we need kids sometimes to see simple solutions.
I saw my recently turned 12 year old use this heavy monster with one hand.
How strong the power of suggestion from reading a review is, astounding, even I having one was thinking it needed two hands to operate.
And then I see one little hand do it…
And well you must have big hands if your pinky is not able to hold on (your pic above make t look like your hand is about my size and my four fingers hold the handle just fine but hey Wink )

But my son holds the handle with his middle-, ring finger and pinky and uses his thumb and index finger to operate the switch ring.
So I tried it and well it works like a charm.
So I put on my toughest leather garden gloves and lo and behold, it works like a charm so I think divers can do it like that too Smile

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JohnnyMac wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
I think condensation is normal in diving lights. Probably just had air that couldn’t escape. Gopros also get condensation in there waterproof housing.
I see what you are saying. I’d like to know if anyone else had moisture in the head from the factory. If I could open it and dry it out I might try that but it all seems to be glued tight from the factory. Again though, moisture in the head isn’t the only issue with his light. Build quality is nowhere as good as my S70, for example. Rough control ring and poor anodizing are other issues to name a few.

JM , My sample was crystal clear inside the head and lens both. I tied mine off in the pond down where I do most of my testing for 7 1/2 hours and brought it back to the house and took apart what I could of the light and NO sign of moisture anywhere. The Lens / Bezels were all I could not get loose , but I looked very closely and no moisture as I say. My control ring also does not seem to be like yours as it is kind of stiff but moves fairly smoothly , it can be moved with the thumb but takes a little effort to do it that way and IS easier to use the control ring with 2 hands (1 hand holding handle). As far as the Anodizing mine looks to be “good” (not perfect but good) I did note in my video review about the SHARP edges on the lanyard holes also , as I felt the same as you in that they would cut a string attached lanyard.
My review HERE if you are interested in seeing the water submersion (or anything else for that matter) The light going into water (pond) starts at 5:30 of the video , coming out of water at 6:54 and the Teardown and still beamshots (couple of comparison shots with S70 also) immediately following that.
Note the teardown was done about 5 minutes after the light came out of the pond , as soon a I walked in the house with it.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

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everydaysurvivalgear
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You can take the light apart fairly easy! JohnnyMac get modding lol! This light should have enough mass for 3 XHP70.

RobertB
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You can take the light apart fairly easy! JohnnyMac get modding lol! This light should have enough mass for 3 XHP70.

I sat my light on my desk turned it on high for between 10 and 15 minutes, and it was only warm, not hot.

I have no problems with the selector ring either. I mean, it’s not like it’s on ball bearings, but it has to stay separate from the housing as a dive light should.

everydaysurvivalgear
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RobertB wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You can take the light apart fairly easy! JohnnyMac get modding lol! This light should have enough mass for 3 XHP70.

I sat my light on my desk turned it on high for between 10 and 15 minutes, and it was only warm, not hot.

I have no problems with the selector ring either. I mean, it’s not like it’s on ball bearings, but it has to stay separate from the housing as a dive light should.

Do you think you could actually run a triple XHP50/70 in it?

JohnnyMac
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You can take the light apart fairly easy! JohnnyMac get modding lol! This light should have enough mass for 3 XHP70.
How did you get thee insulator off the driver back without destroying it? Mine would not unthread more than half a turn without locking up solid. Are the bezels glued? All 3 are super tight on mine and my usual pliers in the notches won’t get them off. I will need to make a solid internal spanner or use Dale’s JB Weld stick trick.
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JohnnyMac wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You can take the light apart fairly easy! JohnnyMac get modding lol! This light should have enough mass for 3 XHP70.
How did you get thee insulator off the driver back without destroying it? Mine would not unthread more than half a turn without locking up solid. Are the bezels glued? All 3 are super tight on mine and my usual pliers in the notches won’t get them off. I will need to make a solid internal spanner or use Dale’s JB Weld stick trick.

I don’t know what he did JM but my insulator on the back of the driver simply unscrewed with some wide needle nose pliers, like unscrewing a retainer ring. It was not glued or anything and is plastic. You may need a small hook type pick or something like dentist use , to get in and under the holes to put some upward pressure to get the threads to engage properly though if it was screwed too far down.

I am also curious about the bezels though as I broke the end off a pair of needle nose pliers trying to get mine to break loose and had NO success.

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JohnnyMac wrote:
Nah, the water is still in there. To get those bezels off I’d have to make a special tool. Pliers and snap ring pliers don’t do the trick. I think they are glued on for better seal.

I told Thorfire to expect an unhappy review but haven’t heard back yet. Not everyone who gets free review lights is afraid to be honest and unbiased. I always call it like I see it and always will. I told them to take it as constructive criticism. The light has great mass but aside from the water in it the quality overall just isn’t there. Lots of potential with this light but not in my sample. I know some feel I was unfair but it is what it is. We’ll see how they take it. I was hard on Thrunite once or twice but they still love me. Silly

I clearly remember the review; some Thrunite single 18650 with extension tube. The light had PWM on high (max output) in single 18650 mode. It was a pretty generic looking light with generic performance priced way too high. You showed other pretty bad flaws of the light as well, and you crushed the light… That’s how I like reviews; don’t BS and say it sucks if it sucks showing all the details.
…And Thrunite kept sending you lights. So much respect for Thrunite as well.
Anyhow, if you’re not afraid to give a bad review, then you also have way more credibility when you praise a light. I’ve been reading your reviews quite some time now (where the hell is the Manker MK34 review? You even had pics of the prototype…). Thanks a lot for your reviews! Big hug from me! Smile

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Hmm ignoring people saying things not inline with your review Sad

Here we go again:

Did you get the water out?

Then a funny thing, we need kids sometimes to see simple solutions.
I saw my recently turned 12 year old use this heavy monster with one hand.
How strong the power of suggestion from reading a review is, astounding, even I having one was thinking it needed two hands to operate.
And then I see one little hand do it…
And well you must have big hands if your pinky is not able to hold on (your pic above make it look like your hand is about my size and my four fingers hold the handle just fine but hey Wink )

But my son holds the handle with his middle-, ring finger and pinky and uses his thumb and index finger to operate the switch ring.
So I tried it and well it works like a charm.
So I put on my toughest leather garden gloves and lo and behold, it works like a charm so I think divers can do it like that too Smile

.
.
And to add something
The handle is just ideal to use for a lanyard, it hangs perfectly so if it would be used under water I assume it will hang just pointing in the right direction as it does hanging over my shoulder. Very nice balanced where the L6 and S70 needs a strap holding it at two locations to do this the S1 really does not need the tail openings to be used for a lanyard.

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Thanks JM for a truly honest and unbiased review! I also had the chance to receive one for review as well but at the end I decided not to, I had the feeling this wasn’t going to be in line with other TF products in terms of quality…

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will34 wrote:
Thanks JM for a truly honest and unbiased review! …

+1

Let us remember that this is NOT a light of which you are supposed to say:” ooh golly, let’s order all five different colors”. This is intended to be a real diving light. For people working over 200 feet deep in murky water. Whose very lives depend on the quality of their equipment. Where there is no room for error. Who cannot reboote their lives when something goes uh-oh. Where quality control should be absolute. And it wasn’t!

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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I’d be more than happy to pay for shipping if you’d send me that light. Will gift it to my neighbor who is a professional diver. He won’t mind the condensation under the len’s. He told me he’s tired of replacing bulbs in his 600 dollar HID dive light every time he bangs it up against something. I will field test it in 20 feet of water over night before giving it to him.

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The Miller wrote:
Hmm ignoring people saying things not inline with your review Sad

Here we go again:

Did you get the water out?

Then a funny thing, we need kids sometimes to see simple solutions.
I saw my recently turned 12 year old use this heavy monster with one hand.
How strong the power of suggestion from reading a review is, astounding, even I having one was thinking it needed two hands to operate.
And then I see one little hand do it…
And well you must have big hands if your pinky is not able to hold on (your pic above make it look like your hand is about my size and my four fingers hold the handle just fine but hey Wink )

But my son holds the handle with his middle-, ring finger and pinky and uses his thumb and index finger to operate the switch ring.
So I tried it and well it works like a charm.
So I put on my toughest leather garden gloves and lo and behold, it works like a charm so I think divers can do it like that too Smile

.
.
And to add something
The handle is just ideal to use for a lanyard, it hangs perfectly so if it would be used under water I assume it will hang just pointing in the right direction as it does hanging over my shoulder. Very nice balanced where the L6 and S70 needs a strap holding it at two locations to do this the S1 really does not need the tail openings to be used for a lanyard.

Ignoring people who disagree with my opinion? What are you smoking? I already said I didn’t get the water out of it. Everyone else who has one stated there was no water in theirs so I stand by my opinion of the light. It obviously leaked when they tested it and missed it during inspection. I’m not that concerned about it. I have too much other stuff on my plate right now than worry about a dive light that I wasn’t too impressed with in the first place. No amount of what anyone else says about their samples being great will change the fact that mine wasn’t. Machining not great, anodizing very thin and bare in spots, not water tight, clunky control ring, etc. Other control ring lights I have can be turned with nothing more than my thumb. Mine can’t. I’m happy you found a way to do it one handed but I don’t like hanging a heavy light from the two weakest fingers on the hand in order to change modes. Ever think maybe your control ring works smoother than my sample? Others believe theirs do.

Lanyard holes in the tail not the best place to mount a lanyard? Agreed. The handle, where one places their hand is. But if you are going to make lanyard holes anywhere on a light the edges shouldn’t be sharp. Period. I’ll tell you what. Next time Thorfire offers me the chance to review a diving light I’ll send it to you so they get a favorable review regardless of the sample.

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