I’ve had an S41 nichia for awhile and love it. carry it daily and sticking with the 18350.
Just got a red S1 today, staying 18350 with that one too, think the wife will carry it. it is “hers” anyway
Getting an S41 XP-G2 tomorrow, using 18650 tube on this one. Amazon prime $30 deal! stay tuned for some exterior mods on that one!
FEEL FREE TO POST PICS OF YOUR ASTROLUX’S
The S1 has a nice medium spot going on, I really like the flood of the S41 for general purpose though.
Batteries used where windyfire 700mah IMR from MtnE.
S41 nichia
got my $30 Amazon S41 today.
It’s a Nichia version.
Also had to other members (one PM) that also said the original order had yellow1 as color and it changed to white after.
Stripping the S41?? Do you mean removing anodization?
My plain SS S41S should have arrived today but local USPS seemed to have left it at the local sorting this morning. Tracking still says expected delivery date is Monday. I got the XP-G3 in the S41S. Another S41 XP-G2 has been taking the LONG way of travel…
Hmm got too many… only got pics of the modded.
(3) S41 one of which was converted to XP-L HI V2 3A quad
S41 head with Tpad quad soldered in
SS Triple
SC Quad XP-L HI
And a Set. actually BLF and EE X6 But they got the Astro guts from the others in 3B
Just a warning… If you want to strip the S41 ya gotta get it apart first. But beware taking one apart risks ruining the emitters. The quad optic has weak legs, and only 2 of them. Poorly supported and tightening it back up may ruin it and the domes come off the emitters and stick inside the optic. When you see the pics of Purple emitters, that is what happened. I had 2 lights that I took apart do this. One got 2 Nichia 219C emitters reflowed back on it and the other got the XP-L HI and Carclo optic fitted. The carclo and domeless XP-L HI assures the S41 issues will never happen to that light.
For the stripping, I have done many. I use Sodium Hydroxide crystals (Lye). Don’t need much added to 2 cups of Warm water. There was some discussion in the “what did you mod today” thread. Should only be a few pages from the end. Couple members got the Lye from Home stores &I think one found Industrial Drano crystals that was 100% Lye I think. And the solution is reusable and stores safely in a plastic milk jug.
Here is an S2 I stripped and polished the other day.
And another S2+ that was blue Just couldn’t get used to the Color but I wanted one with a metal switch cap. It’s a triple and has a tail magnet too
Yes Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye and caustic soda, I would suggest putting it in cold water, not warm water.
Dissolution of solid sodium hydroxide in water is a highly exothermic reaction in which a large amount of heat is liberated, posing a threat to safety through the possibility of splashing.
I might have to disagree here. My solution turned dark black. I actually changed it out multiple times during the process because I couldn’t see what was going on. It doesn’t make much difference though, the lye is cheap and goes a long way.
Also the lye I got (that said it was 100% lye) did nothing in cold water. I had to use quite warm water to do anything. But probably better to try in cold water first.
The 1/2 Gallon of solution I have had for several years. Yeah its black but still works fine when warmed.
It has been used on everything from car parts, gun parts, knife scales, flashlights, Mtn bike parts and motorcycle parts. I do not leave anything unattended, keep it agitated frequently and check frequently. Some parts are literally done in 30 seconds some take 15-20min. If your parts turn black the solution is too strong and (or) left unagitated in solution too long. Keep a dedicated Stainless spoon to stir slowly and fish out parts to observe.
Colored anodize rarely matches but polished aluminum always matches.
Wow! That is beautiful! Excellent work. It has a very polished look. Sorry…couldn’t help myself.
Did you polish the switch too? Looks awesome. :+1:
I’m a bit scared of all the chemicals involved but the results speak for themselves. :heart_eyes:
Hello J,
Ad a Tsp of crystals to 2 cups cold water. Do not ad the water to the crystals. I have a ceramic mug dedicated to the small parts. Warm it in the microwave for a minute. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Keep some cool fresh water in a bucket to rinse. I also use a small stainless wire brush and an old toothbrush to help remove residue from parts in the fresh water. Re Submerged in solution as needed. Wash with detergent. Citric acid or vinegar will also help neutralize the Lye (base) solution.
it’s as dangerous as lye based oven cleaner or drain opener.
Do not ad water to a cup of crystals. Ad crystals to cold water.
If you get it on you hands or skin, rinse in water till slippery feeling washes away. It will react to skin similar to those industrial Purple cleaners.
Keep the solution only as strong as need to react when warm. Cold or room temperature will have little effect on the anno.
Both the lights above were wet sanded from 400 to 2000 grit by hand. Also polished by hand with Mother Mag and Aluminum Polish and a Bounty paper towel folded to about 8 layers. apply polish to towel and rub in a bit, no paste. More than likely you will see scratches after polishing. Go back to 2000 wet sand and polish it again. Machine polishing will not result in the same mirror reflection that can be achieved by hand.
The S2+ was a brushed finish for some time. I showed every hint of a scuff that was against the grain of the brushed finish. Polishing as you see it is actually more durable. The smoothness has more resistance to scratches. A coat of wax helps keep it from oxidizing.
One more caution about using lye (sodium hydroxide). WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Even a tiny drop coming into contact w/ your eyes cornea will permanently turn it milky white.
As Khas pointed out, when lye crystals are added to water the reaction is exothermic. Adding water to crystals is risky, the solution can reach boiling point quickly, causing caustic spraying in all directions.
When I mix any caustic solution in the lab I start w/ cold water and add the crystals in small amounts, swirling or using a magnetic stirrer to speed dissolving. A strong solution may take an hour to fully mix and let cool.
@Jerommel: go to the Kruidvat and buy the home-brand orange bottle of gootsteenontstopper. It costs almost nothing and is 100% cautic soda (sodium hydroxide).
Sorry…couldn’t help myself. 