The GT, Proto V2 arrived!, the BLF special giga thrower

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Precision777
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Giancarlo wrote:
Probably this has already been mentioned, but I would add a crenulated steel bezel for several reasons: 1 – the flashlight would be nicer! Smile 2 – When working I often put the torch upside down on the ground and a steel bezel would avoid risk of scratches. 3 – If the torch drops on the ground by the edge of the head it gets not dinged. The steel bezel distributes the impact on the whole circumference of the head. 4 – A crenulated bezel can used to break a window glass if needed.

I Second this Idea!! It would make the light more Durable and add esthetics to it although I do understand it is a bit late in the build process possibly to add it in now and may up the cost a bit! ……But a Good Idea!!

Precision777

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Condensed cliff notes version:

- New reflector is much improved, has some minor specs that don’t affect the beam that are already being worked on by lumintop
- Centering ring is good, just needs to be careful when installing
- Kurling on battery tube, fantastic, could not ask for more
- Lighted switch, 223ua of parasitic drain, about 3 years of standby time with 8 cells
- New Battery carriers are all metal now, double springs, much lower resistance and better design. The button top spring could use a brass or copper coating, needs arrows on all 4 rods
- Tailcap sticker for protection against reverse installed cell carriers could be improved but is acceptable as is if it had to, going to see if they can make a cutout to prevent the V+ from even being able to hit the tailcap, that would fix it

Overall I would say that Giggles is almost ready for approval with minor tweaks that would not need another prototype.

The last thing that needs to be settled is the LED. I am going to try to test those out later today or tomorrow.

Ok, here are my initial impressions of Giggles V2 as I start breaking it down.


The reflector is a massive improvement, while there is still some minor ringing when held close to a flat surface it is much much better then before. The surface smoothness is now good enough to go into production IMO. Not perfect but really good for such a large reflector at this price point. Further improvements would have minimal if any noticeable improvements to the beam.

There are some minor imperfections on the reflector, minor specs, looks like some dust got caught in the coating process, Lumintop has already confirmed that they are working to fix this for the production run. They are just cosmetic though, they are so small they would have no effect on the actual throw.

So how does this boil down to real world use? VOB still has the V1 prototype (I plan to send him the V2 proto once I am done with it so he can compare them on video), so I can’t compare them side by side. I am going off memory but the hotspot does seem more defined, kind of like the difference between a very mild orange peel and a SMO reflector.

I took some throw readings but due to the very high humidity in Texas my readings are never as good as others and they can vary by quite a bit depending on the day.

In this case it does seem to be averaging roughly ~5% higher than the V1 reflector, which is about what I would expect. Although this LED is different then the V1 so take these numbers with a grain of salt.

Overall I would give the reflector an A, still minor improvements to be made in getting rid of the specs but a passing grade none the less.



The new centering ring also appears to work good, although they will still need to make sure that the production versions are careful with the install. My LED had some minor damage to the silicone but luckily I checked it before tuning the light on and after cleaning it was fine. This is just from being removed and installed several times I am sure, this light has obviously been used for a lot of prototyping.

The next biggest change is the Kurling. All I can say is wow, it is amazing. Somehow it manages to add a surprising amount of grip without feeling abrasive. In fact it feels really good to hold. It also looks fantastic.

A+ on the kurling, could not ask for more.



The tailcap has an added sticker on the inside to provide electrical isolation from the cell carriers, it looks good as well. Not sure how well it will hold up over the long term though. Luckily even if it is missing it would not cause an issue unless the carriers are inserted backwards.

With the new carrier design I think the best option would be to make an indention in the tailcap to prevent the button top of the carrier from being able to contact the tailcap even if it was inserted backwards. There should be plenty of room and would be a simple fix.

It would be acceptable as is if needed though.


I think they forgot to install an o-ring in the tailcap ring, so it rattles a bit but that is just a prototype issue. This needs to be in the final version for sure.

Now for the carriers.

*They are very nice, all metal construction and double springs this time. *

The polarity protection is also very well done, I like the U shaped cutout, it makes it easier to insert and remove the cells. They did end up soldering the protection PCB to the base PCB for some reason. Not sure why they did this. It can be undone easily with a soldering iron through so not a problem for those that don’t want it. All you need is a $2 iron to do that.

Spring testing is very good as well. The losses in the spring > trace > contact for next cell is only around 40mv at full height (no compression of the springs). If I compress the springs that drops down to around 15mv at max compression (aka, if you used protected cells) or it looks like around 30mv at “normal” cell compression heights.

So voltage loss at 2.5A is less then 0.2v for all 4 springs. Much better then the first carrier.

The “button top spring” on the top of the carrier is not quite as good as the others but about the only improvement it could have is a copper/brass coating, otherwise the spring is about as good as it can get in the space it has. I measured about 75mv voltage drop for the complete connection from the bottom of the carrier to the top.

So grad total the voltage drop in a single carrier at 2.5A should be less then 0.3v and with springs compressed in actual use it should be closer to 0.2V.

That is perfectly acceptable and once again a passing A grade. A brass or copper coating on the button top spring would be nice to see. Also it needs arrows on each “rod” showing the correct way to insert the carrier.






This is the button top spring that could use a copper or brass coating:

The threads and all the other parts of the light are still just as good as the first prototype

The driver firmware appears to be the wrong version, it looks to be using the Q8 ramp table if I had to guess. This should be easily correctable, I am waiting for Tom to get back to me on what version I need to flash to it, otherwise the driver appears to work fine. I will test further once I have the correct firmware.

The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries. I think that is acceptable. It is also not nearly as bright as the Q8 which is nice for night time use. It can be adjusted by the end user by swapping a resistor if they wanted it brighter or they could switch to a clear cover.

Overall an A grade here, this is the most universal setup I can think of, brighter would drain more power then I would like and some people don’t like it that bright and dimmer would make it less useful in some cases.

It does not look quite this bright in person:

So overall this light is basically ready for approval. Just a few minor details to hash out.

Here are a some random pictures to keep you entertained while that happens:







can it use flat top battery or is it must use button top?

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Wieselflinkpro
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With the battery carryer I have some questions and suggestions:

Yes The quality looks nice. But the solder points near the Bat+ pads are not verry nice. Is it possible to move them to an other place?
And it would be great if the flashlight would work with flat top batteries with raised flat top or in other words with bigger top button. That means the cutout of the top pcb has to be enlarged and perhaps the Bat+ pad too. And the solder points have to be moved to another place too.

I am thinking of the following batteries to fit this carryer:
- Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA
- Sony VTC6 and other Sony Batteries
- LG HG2
- and similar

The only Problem would be that there is only a difference of a few 0.x mm between Bat+ and schrink tube of the most batteries. The NCR18650GA has a bigger difference between these.

What would you think about it?

The_Driver
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zelee: why do you have to quote his entire post with all the pictures?

Dennis Bieniek
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Can I please be put on the list?

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please put me on the list for 1pc

thanks

CodyWolfeMusic
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That’s hilarious, gotta get some Duracell decals for the side xD

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
With the battery carryer I have some questions and suggestions:

Yes The quality looks nice. But the solder points near the Bat+ pads are not verry nice. Is it possible to move them to an other place?
And it would be great if the flashlight would work with flat top batteries with raised flat top or in other words with bigger top button. That means the cutout of the top pcb has to be enlarged and perhaps the Bat+ pad too. And the solder points have to be moved to another place too.

I am thinking of the following batteries to fit this carryer:
- Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA
- Sony VTC6 and other Sony Batteries
- LG HG2
- and similar

The only Problem would be that there is only a difference of a few 0.x mm between Bat+ and schrink tube of the most batteries. The NCR18650GA has a bigger difference between these.

What would you think about it?

I was worried about those solder points at first as well but after testing found that they are there purely to hold the PCB’s together. They appear to have no electrical connection with any other point on the light, so shorting out to them is not a concern.

I still have no idea why they chose to solder the pcb’s together though, it is not needed that I can see.

Far as making it work with flat top cells, it would be too difficult to work with those but not with a reverse cell and then you have variances between the cells as well. Better to simply solder blob the cells or if you need to, remove the protection pcb. Removing the PCB would not be hard, just a basic soldering iron or heat gun is all that is needed.

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In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

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Ok, I had a few minutes to flash the new firmware from Tom. NarsilM GT 1.2.

After the reflash it is working perfectly, so something went wrong with the flash on the china end. I am thinking they either got the wrong Hex file somehow or the fuse settings were wrong. I noticed that Tom updated the fuse settings recently.

We will sort that out but it should be a simple fix.

Not sure if I will have time to test the LED’s today but I will post the results when I get to them.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

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goshdogit wrote:
I was talking with a friend who’s also on the list for a GT.

I mentioned that due to its comical size, a muggle might think the GT is an outdated incandescent flashlight filled with D batteries… until it’s powered on. Big Smile

I’m tempted to apply a faux finish (using removeable paint) to increase this effect.

Perhaps something resembling this 5 D-cell specimen periodically available ‘free with coupon’ at Radio Shack a few decades ago.

Now this would be hilarious…. great idea!!! Thumbs Up
Anyone who remembered these old lights would probably pass out from shock when you fired up the ‘look alike GT’…… Big SmileBig SmileBig Smile

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You kidding me? I love light saber shots they really show the beam, and an impressive beam that is. I loved the videos of the Convoy L6 up on YouTube with all that fog truely impressive. So proud of the progress you guys made on this been looking back through the fourms and its exciting to see it become reality. Can’t wait to order this thing and see what it can do!

Cody Wolfe

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If possible can you please add me to the list. Thank you.

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The_Driver wrote:
zelee: why do you have to quote his entire post with all the pictures?
Not to be mean, but… +1 . Smile

zelee wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Condensed cliff notes version:
………. snip …………
can it use flat top battery or is it must use button top?
Button tops or solder boob the flat tops. Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||   Confucius say -- Baaa-haaaaaa......   tongue-out

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

PVCC
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@Texas_Ace

 

" With the new carrier design I think the best option would be to make an indention in the tailcap to prevent the button top of the carrier from being able to contact the tailcap even if it was inserted backwards. There should be plenty of room and would be a simple fix. "

 

- Yes, that would be very good!!

  

- TECH QUESTIONS (sorry, I'm not up to date with all Final Specs)

1- Is the final LED emitter, Cool White or Neutral White?

2- Can the GT use Unprotected batteries? (I have many unprotected, but almost none "protected"... hence my question)

3- If yes, can I use Unprotected in one carrier, and Protected in the other carrier?

4- Can the GT use for instance 4 batteries of 3500mAh in one carrier and 4 batteries of 2700mAh in the other?

 

BTW, Thanks a lot for your pictures and very detailed report. MUCH APPRECIATED!! It looks AWESOME to me Smile

Thanks!!

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PVCC wrote:

@Texas_Ace


 


“ With the new carrier design I think the best option would be to make an indention in the tailcap to prevent the button top of the carrier from being able to contact the tailcap even if it was inserted backwards. There should be plenty of room and would be a simple fix. “


 


- Yes, that would be very good!!


  


- TECH QUESTIONS (sorry, I’m not up to date with all Final Specs)


1- Is the final LED emitter, Cool White or Neutral White?


2- Can the GT use Unprotected batteries? (I have many unprotected, but almost none “protected”… hence my question)


3- If yes, can I use Unprotected in one carrier, and Protected in the other carrier?


4- Can the GT use for instance 4 batteries of 3500mAh in one carrier and 4 batteries of 2700mAh in the other?


 


BTW, Thanks a lot for your pictures and very detailed report. MUCH APPRECIATED!! It looks AWESOME to me Smile


Thanks!!

1: The emitter has always been neutral white, we are just not sure exactly what flavor of neutral white it will be yet. There is apperantly a shortage of neutral white xhp35 HI’s right now.

2: You can use the flat top cells if you solder blob them or if you remove the protection pcb.

3: The official recommendation is 8 matching batteries but unofficially as long as the 4 cells in each carrier match, you will be ok. I have tested this myself with 30q’s and cheap laptop cells in each carrier.

4: Ditto the last answer, officially not recommended but unofficially and electrically you will be ok since the GT uses so little power. It is simply a matter of liability, too much risk in officially suntanning the mixing of cells.

So I have to say, the above advise is in no way connected to the offical GT team, GB or lumintop nor do I provide any garanties. This is based on electrical engineering 101 and personal testing only.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

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Can I be lazy guys and some one tell me whether both group buys are over, so that I dont have to go back and read through the whole thread? Kinda interested in the light but can’t spend too much money at the moment. Thanks in advance!

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The $111 GB is full but the $150 GB is still open.

It should remain open until the lights go on sale.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

pommie
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Posted this a while ago, it is the proto 1 with the shorty tube, the humidity was high and is across water meaning the conditions are real life Smile

pommie wrote:
Managed to get out for some GT Proto beam shots last night, there was a half moon, ‘sky glow’ from the city only 7~8km away plus the lights on the pier so a real life situation.
First the map for distance

Then for the control shot, played with the settings until I got close to what my eye was seeing.

Now the beam shot, using the same settings as the control shot.

Just to show that it really was getting there, a crop at 100% of both images

Sorry no comparison shots as it started to rain and I got out of there while I was still dry Big Smile

Cheers David


As an aside, the focal length was 35mm on a cropped sensor, close to what the eye sees.

How much better the production model will be is unknown at the moment but high humidity will still be a problem.

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...BLF GT proto

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pommie wrote:
As an aside, the focal length was 35mm on a cropped sensor, close to what the eye sees.

How much better the production model will be is unknown at the moment but high humidity will still be a problem.

Cheers David

I feel your pain, taking Lux readings outside the calculated throw actually goes down as I move further back instead of going up like it should the humidity can be so bad. I usually get the highest readings around 5m, which is much less then should be ideal for a light this size.

I have a water tower I spotted recently that should technically be in range of the gt (about 1 mile) but I kinda doubt that it will reach that far with the humidity and light pollution.

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible from one party of the citizens to give to the other. -- Voltaire (1764)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

Complete collection of all my LED tests

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Texas_Ace wrote:
The $111 GB is full but the $150 GB is still open.

It should remain open until the lights go on sale.

Thank you kind sir!

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Tom E wrote:

Giancarlo wrote:
I mean the Acebeam TN42vn modded by Vihn (SkyLumen.com): https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/tn42vn-throw-king-pre-order-only  

I think you mean the ThruNite TN42vn – again, it’s a thin beam – no comparison to the swath of coverage by the GT.


You are right, I meant the Thrunite TN42vn. Big Smile Quite happy for the larger swath of coverage of the TG! Thumbs Up
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The pics into that reflector are almost hypnotic,,,,,,, am i becoming a flas-a-holic ? Smile

I thought a reflector was in a grinding machine before polish, i know a CNC lathe can do a okay surface, but its nothing compared to the surface tolerances i far surpassed on my grinding machine.
setting off on a new batch with the stone fresh sharpened, my grindings was slicker than snot on a door knob.

BUT ! i have no idea if you can grind on ALU as you can on tempered steel or raw steel / stainless, but i figure its just a matter of using the right stone for the job.

Some times i worked on some large axles that had gotten a layer of crome, and that shi,,,,, stuff was a pain to work on, i have no idea why they dident get those axles sprayed with some proper steel, figure it was cornor-cutting saving money ,,,, which i hate as its so noob and anyone can do it.

And besides a CNC lathe could fab up a new axle much faster than i could redo the tolerances on my grinding machine, especially as this was raw steel axles only needing a few grinds where rubber seals was seating.

Dont get it Facepalm some times its like stupid run things.

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Jack, as was said before, this is not an Acebeam topic. This is considered hijacking the thread. You need to create a new topic in the commercial sellers spot here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/marketplace/commercial

Or maybe search for an Acebeam thread at least.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

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sparkyDK wrote:

BUT ! i have no idea if you can grind on ALU as you can on tempered steel or raw steel / stainless, but i figure its just a matter of using the right stone for the job.

Aluminum is so soft it will just clog up the grinding stone. You need sandpaper style flap discs or rolls and even those wear out quick. Like this.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

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Please add me to the list as well. Thanks!

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Please add me to the list as well.
Thanks!

Regards
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Any update on the shorty tube being available for purchase?

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Location: Germany - TLF

Texas_Ace wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
With the battery carryer I have some questions and suggestions:

Yes The quality looks nice. But the solder points near the Bat+ pads are not verry nice. Is it possible to move them to an other place?
And it would be great if the flashlight would work with flat top batteries with raised flat top or in other words with bigger top button. That means the cutout of the top pcb has to be enlarged and perhaps the Bat+ pad too. And the solder points have to be moved to another place too.

I am thinking of the following batteries to fit this carryer:
- Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA
- Sony VTC6 and other Sony Batteries
- LG HG2
- and similar

The only Problem would be that there is only a difference of a few 0.x mm between Bat+ and schrink tube of the most batteries. The NCR18650GA has a bigger difference between these.

What would you think about it?

I was worried about those solder points at first as well but after testing found that they are there purely to hold the PCB’s together. They appear to have no electrical connection with any other point on the light, so shorting out to them is not a concern.

I still have no idea why they chose to solder the pcb’s together though, it is not needed that I can see.

Far as making it work with flat top cells, it would be too difficult to work with those but not with a reverse cell and then you have variances between the cells as well. Better to simply solder blob the cells or if you need to, remove the protection pcb. Removing the PCB would not be hard, just a basic soldering iron or heat gun is all that is needed.

Are the springs on the same PCB as the Bat+ contacts? And the bars are on the outer PCB too? That would mean by removing the protection PCB, the battery carryer wouldn’t shrink and it would be verry easy to remove it.
Is it right so?

gtxxl
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Location: Germany Bremen

teacher wrote:
Theodore41 wrote:
cccpull wrote:
Great! Some news after 2 months of,

Should I order the batteries, yet? It take 3 days for them to arrive.

I’ve got the 8 GAs about one month ago. Smile
Same here… 8 GA,s about a month ago.
Gotta have them so I just got them while the getting was good…… (in stock) …. Wink

Sorry I do not understand the abbreviation, my question can you tell me what these batteries type model and manufacturer. ?

Henk4U2
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gtxxl wrote:
Sorry I do not understand the abbreviation, my question can you tell me what these batteries type model manufacturer. ?

Sanyo NCR18650GA

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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