[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

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djozz
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southland wrote:
Also thought the emitter would be cool white for the increased throw. Why not offer both, no big deal to build lights with two different emitters.

Two different emitters is a big deal in manufacturing, somewhere in production you have to separate two production runs that even to trained eyes are almost indistinguishable.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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Were any of the proposed GT logos mentioned in the OP ever posted publicly? While Lumintop has opted against custom logos, I’d love to have one printed on die cut vinyl for my hard case with permission from the designer(s).

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Quoted from TA’s previous post:

“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”

— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)

— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?

If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.

If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.

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tatasal wrote:
Quoted from TA’s previous post:

“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”

— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)

— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?

If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.

If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.


I have all my 25 lights sleeping with the tail caps turned a little counterclockwise,so they have not drain.There are two of them I think which don’t “want” this,so I have entirely open up their tail caps.
tatasal
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Theodore41 wrote:
tatasal wrote:
Quoted from TA’s previous post:

“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”

— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)

— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?

If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.

If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.

I have all my 25 lights sleeping with the tail caps turned a little counterclockwise,so they have not drain.There are two of them I think which don’t “want” this,so I have entirely open up their tail caps.

I guess I have been spoiled by my lights that has no or very minimal parasitic drain that I never worried about them and are ready-to-use, and not have to do “tail-cap loosening or else” ever.

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Are the springs on the same PCB as the Bat+ contacts? And the bars are on the outer PCB too? That would mean by removing the protection PCB, the battery carryer wouldn’t shrink and it would be verry easy to remove it. Is it right so?

Yes, the springs are on the lower PCB, so you can remove the protection PCB by simply de-soldering those points and pulling it off with no effect on the rest of the carrier function.

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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

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I hope for clear weather and some spare time in the evening for TA to measure a proper throw-number Smile

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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PVCC wrote:

@Texas_Ace


 


Thanks a lot for your detailed answers!


- I thought the chosen XHP35 HI was CW since CW is usually higher output (maybe I’m wrong, I’m not deep in this field)


- Thanks for the advice on the batteries. No worries, I understood the “official” recommendation now Wink


- BTW, I usually use a Neodimiun super strong very “small coin” magnet that has Nickel coating, instead of solder blob. Did you try it?


Thanks a lot once again!

In older days you could get much higher bins in CW then neutral white tints. This is not the case anymore with the highest or 1 bin lower then highest usually being found all the way down to 4000-5000k.

So now days you really do not gain anything by going with CW in the real world.

People still think that CW produce higher outputs but that is mostly due to the cheap meters we use to measure flashlights. They are biased towards cool white light and will ready CW emitters as higher output as an equal bin NW emitter. This is just a reading error in most cases though, the bins in the data sheet much be correct or they would be sued.

So if you get different readings most of that is just a reading error in the meter.

To the human eye it is the other way around, you can see much better and much further with a NW or even WW emitter in the real world. This is well known, it is the same reason the sky is blue. Blue light is refracted in the air much easier then warmer tones.

So with a cool white LED you will see the beam like a light saber but that causes the intensity to drop much faster and the throw to be reduced in the real world.

Neutral white does not refract as easily so in the real world you can see further.

I have posted before my experiences with this that made me a whole hearted convert to NW.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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tatasal wrote:
Quoted from TA’s previous post:

“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”

— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)

— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?

If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.

If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.

Yes, with 4 cells it would be about 1.5 years.

The indicator can be turned off, like any e-switch light there is still some drain but it would be less. I think it was around 100ua IIRC for the driver alone? Been awhile.

If you plan on leaving it for a really long time then it is always best to lock out the light. Simply unscrew the tailcap a tad and it will have no drain except the self-discharge of the cells.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

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djozz wrote:
I hope for clear weather and some spare time in the evening for TA to measure a proper throw-number Smile

With a storm moving through and supposed to linger for the next several days, it doesn’t look good.

Although even without a storm, I live in one of the top 10 (think it is #4 last I checked) most humid cities in the USA. So there is not really such a thing as a dry night around here lol. We consider dry anything under 50% humidity.

Right now it is 50 degrees outside and 61% humidity as an example. Last week it was 90f and 80% humidity so it feels great right now.

That is why my beamshots look so vibrant, it is not a trick of the camera, it really looks like that, the refraction of the light is extreme.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

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Wow, don’t visit often anymore. So glad I did. I’m at work – and that first post is so long. Could someone fill me in on how to get in on this?

PM, specify short or long? Price is $150 with $14 prepay?

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dthrckt wrote:
Wow, don’t visit often anymore. So glad I did. I’m at work – and that first post is so long. Could someone fill me in on how to get in on this?

PM, specify short or long? Price is $150 with $14 prepay?


Hi dthrckt, you just got in on this by posting. The price for who join in now is indeed $150, for the group of people who pay $150 it is not clear yet when or even if at all a prepay is needed.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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DB Custom wrote:
What I can’t help but wonder is what would happen if I cut out an inverted dome with a hole in the top and spun up an adapter collar to allow a 7” aspheric to fit over the XHP-35…..

haven’t followed the whole thread – but if you make anything that allows an aspheric to be added to this light I’d definitely be interested in buying that….

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djozz wrote:
dthrckt wrote:
Wow, don’t visit often anymore. So glad I did. I’m at work – and that first post is so long. Could someone fill me in on how to get in on this?

PM, specify short or long? Price is $150 with $14 prepay?


Hi dthrckt, you just got in on this by posting. The price for who join in now is indeed $150, for the group of people who pay $150 it is not clear yet when or even if at all a prepay is needed.

Great, thanks! I don’t need this, but how can I NOT buy this…

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dthrckt wrote:
Wow, don’t visit often anymore. So glad I did. I’m at work – and that first post is so long. Could someone fill me in on how to get in on this?

PM, specify short or long? Price is $150 with $14 prepay?


You are now signed up.

All lights will be the long, 8 cell version.

Payment details are not set. Once production starts and it gets close to buying time you will get a PM telling you all the details. What store to go to and what special code to enter to get the discounted price, etc… We may even need to do a small deposit before that. It’s still not known.

So for now we wait. Big Smile

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos including GT 

Solder Blobbing 18650 batteries 

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The_Driver wrote:
zelee: why do you have to quote his entire post with all the pictures?

wait…what?
i though i already make a post after the [/quote]
i was on mobile when i quote TA post Facepalm

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I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.

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tatasal wrote:
Quoted from TA’s previous post:

“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”

— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)

— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?

If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.

If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.

I think i have read that you should discharge and recharge (or was it only recharge?) the batteries atleast once every 3 months or they degrade alittle.
Or is that just a myth?

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Texas_Ace wrote:
djozz wrote:
I hope for clear weather and some spare time in the evening for TA to measure a proper throw-number Smile

With a storm moving through and supposed to linger for the next several days, it doesn’t look good.

Although even without a storm, I live in one of the top 10 (think it is #4 last I checked) most humid cities in the USA. So there is not really such a thing as a dry night around here lol. We consider dry anything under 50% humidity.

Right now it is 50 degrees outside and 61% humidity as an example. Last week it was 90f and 80% humidity so it feels great right now.

That is why my beamshots look so vibrant, it is not a trick of the camera, it really looks like that, the refraction of the light is extreme.

Wow, at 50% humidity we get nose bleeds from the arid weather. We’re happy at under 70%, at the moment it’s 80 degrees at 81% humidity, ant it was 95% humidity an hour ago.

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The 223 uA parasitic drain sounds a little high. DEL measured it early on without the LED's and didn't think it was so bad. Big difference is where/how it was measured. If measured at the batteries, than it's 223 uA at ~16.8V, which is very high.

Now I'm curious bout this - wish I could find DEL's notes on it. I know the buck driver configuration has a higher parasitic drain but didn't think it would be ~8X higher.

A Q8 with the LEDs ranges from 130 uA down to 90 uA, depending on the LED resistors, but that's at ~4.2V.

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EagleShield wrote:

I think i have read that you should discharge and recharge (or was it only recharge?) the batteries atleast once every 3 months or they degrade alittle.
Or is that just a myth?

Well, technically I suppose they do degrade a bit since the lifetime of the cells are finite. But do they degrade in a meaningful way in a few months? I doubt it. Some folks on the forum keep multiple sets fully charged and waiting for an earthquake or whatever . I do too, but I’m too new to this to notice degradation in my cells. Maybe those with more “time in” will get back to you.

When I first entered this world I did research into the best way to store cells, and if I remember correctly it was at 1/2 charge, ~3.6-3.7 v, and in the refrigerator and dry. But again, there are folks who store cells fully charged and at room temp’.

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EagleShield wrote:

I think i have read that you should discharge and recharge (or was it only recharge?) the batteries atleast once every 3 months or they degrade alittle.
Or is that just a myth?

The possible storage temperature range for Lithium-Ion batteries is is -20°C to 60°C but for prolonged storage period -20°C to 25°C is recommended and 15°C is ideal.

Cells should be stored with a partial charge of between 30% and 50%.

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southland wrote:
Also thought the emitter would be cool white for the increased throw. Why not offer both, no big deal to build lights with two different emitters.

CW has the higher readings, but you can see with NW further. The simple ANSI formula is for vacuum. In real live you have other loses.

The blue light scatters more in the air. At dawn you see only red sunlight. The blue part is filtered out.
At a few hundred metres an object is more washed out with a CW than a NW because of scattering.

Sth. 1km away the light must travel 2km. At these distances NW should be a better choice. And 5000K is quite white.
It would be interesting to see two GTs one with 4000k and one with 5000K LED side by side. In different weather conditions.

IIRC DB customs or Texas Ace has a story with a CW and higher readings on the lux meter as the NW. But the NW was in real life clearer to see.
NW cuts also better trough fog and mist.

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One Question and One request:

What colour temperature will the emmiter be?

Also, can anybody with a GT post a picture with it next to the Q8, just so I can have a rough idea of how they compare in terms of size?

Thanks !

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sparkyDK wrote:
I thought a reflector was in a grinding machine before polish, i know a CNC lathe can do a okay surface, but its nothing compared to the surface tolerances i far surpassed on my grinding machine.

Aluminium is extremely forgiving regarding cutting parameters (chip thickness, feed speed etc…) if you are willing to sacrifice a bit of machining time to surface finish the part you can have incredibly smooth surface finish with AL on a lathe, they could very easily do a reflector on wich you couldn’t detect any imperfection with naked eye or fingers , but that would be at the very least twice the machining time (would require a change of cutting tool and slow finish pass).

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Hello, please put me down for 1. Thank you

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Aargh. I was trying to save some money. Dang you guys.

Screw it, I’m in. Sign me up please.

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cccpull wrote:

Wow, at 50% humidity we get nose bleeds from the arid weather. We’re happy at under 70%, at the moment it’s 80 degrees at 81% humidity, ant it was 95% humidity an hour ago.

Yeah high humidity is good for light sabers Smile
Locally it is 3am, 14c, 95% humidity with the dew point at 13c, not good for beamshots Wink

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

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Ok, I just got a little time to test the LED’s that Neal found and all I can say is I LOVE them!

First here are the specs, they are D4 bin Neutral white LED’s but interestingly they are putting out slightly more lumens then my “E2” bin I tested previously. I am thinking they were not real E2 bin emitters.

They tested out fantastic, 2600 lumens at the turbo 2.5A that Giggles uses. A bit more from a cold start.

Here is the CW xhp35 HI that came in the prototypes, it is obviously not a top bin emitter.

Here is how they compare:

The only downside to the neutral white emitter is the higher Vf. Looks like it is about ~0.25v higher then the prototype LED.

Luckily the new cell carriers lower resistance helps balance out the higher Vf of the emitter so regulated runtimes should be similar to prior tests. With the higher output the current can drop a fair amount and you still end up with the same lumen output.

It is a trade off but seeing as the NW D4 LED makes basically the same lumens at 1.5A as the CW does at 2.5A, I would say it is well worth it.

After I finished the technical testing I put the other LED into Giggles and boy, it is amazing looking. A nice slightly rosy tint that concentrates into a sun like hot spot. Simply amazing looking.

I can’t wait for it to get dark so I can see what it looks like outside. I might even try to get a beamshot humidity or not.

I want these LED’s to go up for sale somewhere, I can think of several uses for them in other lights. My 3C xhp35’s I had in my other lights now look washed out and dull in comparison.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

NikolaS
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Great news TA, some picture for comparison would be nice Big Smile

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