[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

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Bo4ka
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How to unscrew the head? I tried, but no chance.

st33lboy
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Neal does not get a list of Lumintop to whom has the lamp been shipped? I wrote a message to Neal but did not answer.

Sonofspectrum
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Wouldn’t hydroforming be a better and more cost effective way to produce a reflector of this size?

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teacher
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This is for anyone who does not know how to acess the MCPCB/LED easily on the BLF GT.

First & foremost… DO NOT REMOVE THE BEZEL. Smile

So….. here is the process….

  • Remove battery tube
  • Place the ‘flats’ of the *‘engine’ in PADDED vice jaws. DO NOT tighten hard. Tighten just enough to hold it firmly & keep it from turning.
  • Grab the head with both hands and twist it off the *‘engine’ that is being held in vice jaws. If you can’t get it with both hands use a strap wrench placed around head just BELOW the bezel.
  • The top part of the head should come off in one unit containg bezel, lens, & reflector as one piece.
  • Cover hole in reflector to keep dust or any crap from entering the reflector. Then secure this complete unit in a safe, clean, & dry manner/area.
  • You will now see the easily accessible MCPCB & LED.
  • Un-solder Red & Black wires on MCPCB, being careful NOT to damage LED (if you are going to keep it for use again anyway)
  • Remove both Phillips head screws from MCPCB
  • Remove MCPCB

Note: .. *‘Engine’ = Part that houses driver, side switch & MCPCB w/LED

That is it…. Smile

Installation will be the reverse of these steps with the EXCEPTION that new Thermal Pasted will be used under the MCPCB. This is AFTER you have removed and cleaned the old thermal paste from the MCPCB mounting shelf of the GT.
.
.

Also…. IF you ever do need to take a bezel off, get a piece of rubber bigger than the bezel (piece of tire inner tube is one example).
Place it on a sturdy flat smooth hard surface, then put the bezel face down on it.
As you push with downward pressure twist the head of the light to loosen and remove the bezel.

The GT bezel can be difficult to remove.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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gastonpatagonico
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Hello, sorry for uploading a flashlight production video, which is not LT, but you can have an idea of the process, partially, greetings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfQDxs-dvwc

DB Custom
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Teacher makes it sound EASY to remove the head from the pill, and of course it is… if you have the right tools. Without a large enough vise (with soft jaws) and strong enough reinforced strap wrenches of sufficient length, well, good luck!

I have the set of tires removed from my diesel VW before the big scam/buyback stacked in the garage, I found it relatively easy to remove the bezel by pressing it into one of these Continental Extreme Contact DWS mounted tires and twisting. Access to the emitter is fairly easy due to the sheer size of the now open space (reflector removed).

Do take steps to keep the reflector clean, of course. I simply place it upside down in the bezel, atop the lens, and that suffices for the amount of time it takes to swap the emitter. Ambient conditions and presence of children are key factors involved in what measures one must go to. Pelican cases used to warranty their product against virtually anything, excepting Acts of God, Grizzly Attack, or Small Children… take heed! LOL

Dale

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Nice Olight video, you get the picture here how they produce flashlights. I guess this is one of the best facilities. Not every production facility looks like this in Guangdong region. This video shows that the reflectors are milled out of a cylinder of aluminium. No pictures of the coating process. Thanks for sharing.

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BVH wrote:
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites. There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REAL CRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes. I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale. Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be. But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep. Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun. The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement. The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.

The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo. The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.

Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Text Mode


Thats a great tool you have there! All sorts of fun you can have with that.

I am also glad to see proof that what I have been saying for years is correct, that the sun is around 5000k.

Also good to see proof that the tint does get cooler as the power increases. I think some of those saying it is too warm are looking at it in low modes, where it is quite warm indeed. At full power it really looks much better.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

Texas_Ace
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Jerommel wrote:
NikolaS wrote:
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block. After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
I doubt that. I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it. Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools. Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.

They are using a billet to machine the reflectors almost assuredly. The cost to make a mold and cast them would be way more then it is worth for a production run this small. Plus the surface finish would not be as good with a cast material.

From the outside you can see the material quality is much too high for casting.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

teacher
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Big Smile . Big Smile

Wasn’t trying to make it sound easy… though it was.

I just did not want to dissamble the head unless I needed to.

More things taken apart, more chance for something to get messed up.

Have not reassembled this one yet, so not sure if I will have to loosen the bezel or not to do it properly. That remains to be seen.

I am thinking go slow & easy……..
………..making sure all is line up properly, it will be NO.

BUT you have done the reassemble Dale…. what says you. Smile

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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DB Custom
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The light is well made Teacher, reassembly with the Bezel still snugged down is painless.

However… I find it more optimum to NOT have the bezel so tight. I also removed some material on the underside of the Delrin centering block, it was cupped underneath and held the reflector a bit too high for my liking (agree with Kawiboy on this). Putting the bezel back on it seems to do well for the definition of the hot spot to not snug it too tightly. [my Delrin block was 2.8mm thick, apart from the centering ring section, and flat across the top both in the block face and across the ring. When I got the base flat the block ended up 2.5mm thick.]

Dale

teacher
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/\/\/\ … Thank you sir…. Thumbs Up … Good info.

Glad you mentioned the Delrin centering block too. I had forgot what KB had said about that.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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DB Custom
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The reflector is loose and sort of floats in the head, the centering ring aligns it when the head is tightened down. Wink

Dale

teacher
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/\/\/\ . That is what I was thinking / hoping. . Smile

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

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Qwibbles
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I keep checking back Smile … any idea when they are likely to be sent?

Not sure why this never include the 3rd round of PM’s have not been sent out yet … PEBKAC I expect…

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I found a picture of my BLF GT on the internet: UghhBig Smile

Morgy
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Maybe the half of this is yours. The other half is mine. Wink

Nav88
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JasonWW wrote:
I think you would be surprised how quickly the modern CNC machine can carve up a big chunk of aluminum. I’m almost positive it’s quicker and cheaper to do it this way as opposed to using a forge and melting down aluminum then making castings which are going to end up not perfectly round for the lathe to grab ahold of.

Recycling the massive left overs is quite easy. It just gets shipped off. The place doing the machining doesn’t have to deal with it.


A lathe can quite easily grab an out-of-round part and make it round. There may be other technical issues with making the reflector as a machined casting though.

In general I agree that hogging these out of solid rod makes more sense at low quantities. I do hope that they’re saving their sharp tools for nice slow finishing passes. Tool wear could certainly explain the bit of variance in the finishes we’ve seen.

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Trying really hard not to be that guy, but I paid back in December and my name is not on the paid list. I did get an email from Neil asking for my phone number, but that was close to two weeks ago and I haven't heard anything since. I've been trying to keep up with this massive thread to figure out how the shipping thing is supposed to work, but I can't find anything to inform me where in the process my order is.

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BLFBob wrote:

Trying really hard not to be that guy, but I paid back in December and my name is not on the paid list. I did get an email from Neil asking for my phone number, but that was close to two weeks ago and I haven’t heard anything since. I’ve been trying to keep up with this massive thread to figure out how the shipping thing is supposed to work, but I can’t find anything to inform me where in the process my order is.


You are the same as everybody else. We pay our money and just have to wait. 850 orders went in and 500 have currently shipped. As production rolls along at 150 to 200 lights per week, they are steadily shipping them out.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos including GT 

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

 

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Bruno28 wrote:
I wish it was easier to upload photos here, I did some shots comparing the Niwalker BK-FA09S 2400lm 1490m VS the BLF GT. Is there a way to upload directly instead of uploading to another website then linking here?

It is cumbersome to show your pics here. Always wondered why they insist on file hosting…

Pulsar
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crz6662 wrote:
Bruno28 wrote:
I wish it was easier to upload photos here, I did some shots comparing the Niwalker BK-FA09S 2400lm 1490m VS the BLF GT. Is there a way to upload directly instead of uploading to another website then linking here?

It is cumbersome to show your pics here. Always wondered why they insist on file hosting…


Do you know how much more server space we would need if the site also hosted all of the images posted here?
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Pulsar wrote:
crz6662 wrote:
Bruno28 wrote:
I wish it was easier to upload photos here, I did some shots comparing the Niwalker BK-FA09S 2400lm 1490m VS the BLF GT. Is there a way to upload directly instead of uploading to another website then linking here?

It is cumbersome to show your pics here. Always wondered why they insist on file hosting…


Do you know how much more server space we would need if the site also hosted all of the images posted here?

That makes sense. Can you tell me what FREE site(s) are good to use, if any? I remember searching a few different ones in the past but they all wanted money.

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I use dropbox, but I have not used it to post pics for quite a while.

Franz
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I not received the tracking code yet Crying

DanLdn
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Damn! Been out of the flashlight buying game for a bit and come back to miss this by days!

If there’s any chance I can sneak on to the end of the group buy list (or anyone’s ordered too many!) Please let me know. Dan (London) Cheers…

gastonpatagonico
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Flashem wrote:
Pulsar wrote:
crz6662 wrote:
Bruno28 wrote:
I wish it was easier to upload photos here, I did some shots comparing the Niwalker BK-FA09S 2400lm 1490m VS the BLF GT. Is there a way to upload directly instead of uploading to another website then linking here?

It is cumbersome to show your pics here. Always wondered why they insist on file hosting…


Do you know how much more server space we would need if the site also hosted all of the images posted here?

That makes sense. Can you tell me what FREE site(s) are good to use, if any? I remember searching a few different ones in the past but they all wanted money.

I use IMGUR, per hour parce that works well

BVH
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EggsnBacon wrote:
BVH wrote:
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today.

Now that is one awesome tool. I hope you know you are now obligated to test and upload results for every light you own lol.

That means I have to break out all the heavy iron from their storage places. That’s a lot of work. But eventually, it will be done. I’m under the impression that typical XBO/Xenon Short Arc lamps have CRI’s in the 90’s. It would be fun to confirm this.

Seriously though, I would be more than happy to measure lots of light sources for people if they send them to me. Send complete lights, bare LED’s, commercial bulbs, whatever you might want measured. I have programmable current limiting power supplies so I can power up bare sources so to speak. Example: LED’s on stars as long as I can get a reasonable sized contact area or u attach wires to it. I can provide Kelvin and CRI/extended CRI measurements and, although I do not quite understand them yet, info on where the source is in relation to:

CIE1976
CIE1931(CIE1964)
XYZ
xyz
u’v’
λp (Peak wavelength)
λd (Dominant wavelength)
Pe (Purity)
PPFD

Maybe a database/repository of sources and their measurements could be kept on the site.

WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Pichel 75W Mini-Novas

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Here is a video of how they might make the reflector, probably using more CNC and less human intervention…

Pulsar
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AlexGT wrote:
Here is a video of how they might make the reflector, probably using more CNC and less human intervention…

Thats a pretty cool video on making a reflector, but I really dont think most of the reflectors in the lights we use are made like that. If you notice a page back the pic of the GT reflector, p60, c8 and s2, I would say all 4 of those are turned down on a lathe, not rolled out like in the video.

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