Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

972 posts / 0 new
Last post
DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20391
Location: Heart of Texas

I use the little Omten in virtually everything. even if you have to Make it work, it’s worth it. JB Weld Water Weld. About 4 minutes. Smile You can make spacers, adapters, or just plain glue it in.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 21 hours ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1187
Location: Germany

Omten 1288 (left) and switch in my L2 (right):

I thought about gluing something on top of the switch but feared it would break.

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6420
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Not gluing something, just glue. Hot glue to be exact. Works great.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 21 hours ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1187
Location: Germany

With a hot melt-gun? I’ll give it a try …

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6420
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Scuff up the top of the switch some, hold the glue/iron on it for a second, pull the iron away leaving a little ball of glue, wait for it to cool a couple seconds, then just before it gets hard shape it into a post with a flat top.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Mitko
Mitko's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 09/19/2014 - 05:20
Posts: 1537
Location: Bulgaria
Flashy Mike wrote:
My most useful thrower currently is a L2 with XP-L V6 1A dedomed and FET+1 driver. It pulls almost 6 amperes of a single fresh Liitokala 5200 for 280 kCd and 1400 lumens. The light is very handy with its short tube, the spot has a reasonable size and runtime is suffizient. The only thing I miss is a reverse clicky, haven’t found any yet in the size needed.

Only , V6 1A at 6 amps is arround 1900 lumens, there isnt practicaly ANy light loss caused by dedoming, when i first tested it i had to redo the test 3 times to believe it, cant explain it yet its true…i think other here tested it with same results

Not to mention that L2/W2 1A gives 1870 lumens OFT and nearly 2k lumens “ in the box” at 6 amps, there are some 6.5 amps yet they are rare
Those new W2/3 binned ones are kinda close to the new XPL2, they have lower Vf, made a C8 recently with W2 1A and even at 3.3 amp battery it gives 2.8 amps and 110k cds

ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 21 hours ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1187
Location: Germany

Mitko wrote:
Only , V6 1A at 6 amps is arround 1900 lumens, there isnt practicaly ANy light loss caused by dedoming, when i first tested it i had to redo the test 3 times to believe it, cant explain it yet its true…i think other here tested it with same results
Lumens might be more, I do my lumen measurements in an improvized “guest bathroom integrating sphere”. Readings seem a bit low generally, and probably even lower with throwers.
maukka
maukka's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 04:15
Posts: 2023
Location: Finland

I also took some measurements of the L6 lens, although I don’t have any other L6 compatible lenses to compare it with. The light is stock and from the first batch with a cool white (6000K) emitter. I did my lux measurements from 50 cm away on the mid mode to keep the output as constant as possible.

On average, the lens reduces output about 5 percent and makes the light appear a tiny bit more cooler (6002/6001 K vs. 6054/6034 K) and greener (deviation of 0.0018 towards green away from the black body radiator line). It has a negligible effect on CRI: -1 point on most methods but -5 on the CRI. Visually the difference is just about visible (delta e CIE94 1.99).

With lens

Without lens

Lens vs. bare difference

Since the spectrum is kind of spiky on the low CRI XHP70, I also put the lens in front of a high CRI 219B light (Astrolux S41). The loss of light is more pronounced on the higher wavelengths which explains the tiny loss of fidelity in red (R9) and the tint shift towards green. Keep in mind that the shifts are very minimal.

giorgoskok
giorgoskok's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 11/13/2015 - 10:46
Posts: 2670
Location: Greece

Since it’s a L2 mod thread here i have to ask :

Are there any buck drivers for L2 capable for resistor mod (that can deliver 4.5+ amps without any issue after).
I’m aware of Mtn buck drivers ofcourse , but I’m searching something cheaper if available.

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1734
Location: Ohio

Mitko wrote:

ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints

I think this is about the best we can hope for with the XHP35; similar lux to top bin XPL but with nearly 50% more lumens.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 24 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3875
Location: The Motor City

EasyB wrote:
Mitko wrote:

ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints

I think this is about the best we can hope for with the XHP35; similar lux to top bin XPL but with nearly 50% more lumens.


XHP35 is a bigger (brighter) beam and this is comparing the TK61V4vn to the TN42 CW and NW…cd being almost equal…… Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8569
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Plus you can get the XHP35 is warmer tints then a W2. I don’t know about others but I find a neatural tint / high CRI thrower to be FAR superior to a cool white thrower eve if the technical numbers are lower. The extra contrast allows me to see further with the warmer tint.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20391
Location: Heart of Texas

Let me start this by stating the obvious… opinions are personal renditions of one’s own experience. For example, in my own personal experience Chinese people have shiny black hair and very very dark brown eyes. That might lead me to deduce that ALL Chinese people have shiny black hair and very very dark eyes, but as I have yet to see every person of Chinese origin’s it would just be guessing, based on my own observations. With me so far?

I have built a lot of lights. I don’t know exactly how many, but probably somewhere in the 400 range. I personally have never seen an XP-L get 1900 lumens. I personally have never seen a de-domed emitter of any kind retain lumens output, or even come close. I have seen an XM-L2 U4 get 1811, that’s the highest I’ve seen from a single die Cree emitter. I’ve never personally seen a C8 make over 151Kcd. Not one of mine, nor anyone elses (and I have actually measured a few builds from some other people.)

I was once accused of having higher numbers than anyone, it was said that my methods were questionable. And here I see Mitko consistently give reports of numbers considerably higher than I’ve ever seen. I can’t say that Mitko does or does not see those numbers, I’m not there, I don’t know how he goes about it, I don’t know what equipment he uses. I don’t know where he buys his emitters and drivers. I can only say that I personally haven’t seen anything close to what he reports, and I’m the guy that has stood accused of spouting false high numbers.

The reason I say any of this is merely to introduce speculation that we all see some variance, numbers are a test result at a given time, people like getting hung up on these numbers and act like it’s the holy grail of all things flashlight. This is why I’m saying we need to be careful to not do that.

Can we perhaps do a test? Can we, Mitko and myself, someone else if they’re interested, agree to build a light, say a C8, with given specs, given materials and components. Measure said light. Then cross ship for cross measurements? See if I measure Mitko’s light at the same levels Mitko does and if Mitko measures my light at the same levels I do? Perhaps we could find where the middle ground is, there is probably some concrete truth to be found in there somewhere. Is it possible for two or more people to build the same light and consistently have the same results show in testing? If someone in Bulgaria acquires named parts, will they be the same parts someone in Texas acquires? We assume, I think, that a Cree XP-L V6 1A is a Cree XP-L V6 1A, regardless of where sourced, but perhaps this is not the case. What if we both bought from Hank at Intl-Outdoor, so our emitters came from the same source, would that then give us the same light? I’m curious about these things, about what makes the differences we see here.

I bought Old-Lumens modding supplies from him, a few months ago. In his things there is a second light meter just like my own. (Well, it’s the same model number, there are some different writings such as his says Dr. Meter, where mine does not. Could I have a clone?) I will attempt to take meter readings from each and see if they are consistent, this might tell me something in and of itself…

maukka, I love those charts! I may not fully understand em, but I love seeing all those results. Is there anywhere in there that gives a definitive 98% or 99% light transmission statement? (or 97 or whatever?) Because to be quite honest, my testing on the L6 confused me. I was going to test a second factory lens but alas, it was damaged by the blue plastic protective sheeting that comes on the UCLp lenses. (stripped off AR coating when I removed it, I tend to put the two blue sheets onto the stock lens for storage, thought I was protecting it, didn’t know I was effectively killing it. Sad )

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8569
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Very well put^

I think people put WAY too much stock in lumen numbers personally. The idea that one of our home grown spheres is even 10% as accurate as a real mathematically calibrated sphere is stretching things IMHO.

I say this having put dozens of hours into calibrating, perfecting and setting up my own. While mine is now super consistent, reading the same output on the same light even 6 months after building it, I am still well aware that I would be surprised if it is within 10% accuracy of a real sphere.

This is why I never quote exact numbers from my lights/sphere, just rounded figures. That is simply the best I can hope for.

Now consistency is key and I can compare my own readings with other readings in the same sphere very accurately. Great for seeing how much of an improvement a mod made ect. But those numbers are still only applicable to my own setup except for possibly a percentage increase.

This is my own opinion but I wish people would stop quoting lumen readings down to the last digit (aka, 1466 lumens). Instead just round it off (instead say 1450 lumens).

When readers are always reading lumen readings down to the single digit it makes them think that we actually have them measured with enough accuracy to know the lumens down to the single digit. In reality we would be lucky to know the reading down to the hundreds.

Just my opinion, I will keep rounding my numbers and I do not expect anyone else to change the way they do things because of this post.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 24 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3875
Location: The Motor City

Texas_Ace wrote:
Plus you can get the XHP35 is warmer tints then a W2. I don’t know about others but I find a neatural tint / high CRI thrower to be FAR superior to a cool white thrower eve if the technical numbers are lower. The extra contrast allows me to see further with the warmer tint.

Yep I’m loving the NW TN42 is a beauty (liking it more and more every night) it’s alot nicer then the de-domed TK61V4vn which is yellow in comparison, or the TN42CW too ME IMHO!

cd only matters to the meter reading peter’s out there, in real life who can see that far with out a scope, binoculars, telescope. It’s just nice knowing it cranks it out according to the meter, bragging rights. The TK61XPG-2 was totally useless to me, so I gave it away, for cheap!

Now I’m glad RMM had the Neutral Tints in the XHP35HI’s when I ordered them, that’s what I’m running in my Black L6, SD75 and one of the T90-2’s Keepers all! Of course just my opinion. Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20391
Location: Heart of Texas

To test these two meters of the same model but different purchase dates and places, I grabbed my Thrunite TN42 off the shelf along with the also new Eagle Eye X7. Both are stock lights, with the exception of spring bypasses in the TN42 carrier. Cells are As Is, straight off the shelf.

My meter reads the TN42 at 2487.45 lumens and OL’s reads 2494.35. Lux from my meter shows the same as his, at 697.5Kcd. Cells are at 4.12V (LG MJ1 * 4)

My meter reads the X7 at the same 1045.35 lumens as OL’s, but my meter shows 48.25Kcd while OL’s shows 50. A purple Efest 3500mAh 26650 was used in this one.

Lux reading taken at 5M, meter at x100, they both showed 27,900 for the big TN42.

Essentially a wash. The two meters basically give the same result, both have new 9V batteries in them, OL’s just got one today, mine got one Friday. Both from the same package.

At least I know the 1330B meter is pretty consistent. lol

giorgoskok
giorgoskok's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 11/13/2015 - 10:46
Posts: 2670
Location: Greece

Dale , once i receive your L6 i will measure it with my cheap meter . If my measurement is close to yours i will measure my dedomed xp-g2 C8 that i have.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20391
Location: Heart of Texas

I am just really curious where the middle ground is. Ya know? Not saying anything at all about right or wrong, just where is the consistency or what is causing the inconsistency, is it the meter’s, the emitters, lenses, style’s…. always striving, looking for well, perfection I guess. I know I’m far from it, want to know how to get closer.

Swib
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 21 hours ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 19:21
Posts: 249
Location: Ontario, Canada

I have the Dr Meter 1330B as well. What I do is periodically measure two lights that I assume the stated cd is correct. ( one is a new led maglite, the other a C8 from pflexpro) When I compare the measurements I get I find my 1330B reads about 7 % high with a fresh battery compared to advertised cd of both lights. When measuring my own lights I multiply by .93 and go with that.

That said, my C8 numbers mostly fall in line with what Dale said. My latest dedomed S4 2B with the new version FET from Mountain shows 149 Kcd at start with 142 Kcd after 60 seconds with freshly charged 30Q. I could have tweaked the focus and got somewhat better numbers I’m sure.

I did manage to hit just over 160 Kcd with a 2S C8 with dedomed S4 2B and 5.1 amp buck driver in the spring.

With my L2 build I managed to get very good focus. Old school dedomed S4 2B, FET driver @ 4.9 amps with Basen 4500 showing 279 Kcd after 30 seconds. Tried to take some beam shots last night but failed miserably. I might try again tonight.

Edit: My C8’s have UCL lenses and the L2 is stock AR.

If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1734
Location: Ohio

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
EasyB wrote:
Mitko wrote:

ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints

I think this is about the best we can hope for with the XHP35; similar lux to top bin XPL but with nearly 50% more lumens.


XHP35 is a bigger (brighter) beam and this is comparing the TK61V4vn to the TN42 CW and NW…cd being almost equal…… Wink

Yes, I should add that I think that result is very good. ~50% more lumens with same cd means ~50% more beam area and ~25% larger diameter hot spot, all other things being equal.

Not a huge improvement IMO, but if your host has room for 4s cells then it’s definitely worth using.

sidecross
sidecross's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 10/31/2015 - 18:55
Posts: 711
Location: North America

A minor point on semantics, but a warmer tint has ‘less’ contrast than a cool tint. A cool tint has high contrast leaving the shadows either in shadow or illuminated. A warmer tint gives more illumination to the shadow areas. Smile

“You must have a plan, if you don’t have a plan, you will become part of someone else’s plan.” Terence McKenna

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1734
Location: Ohio
sidecross wrote:
A minor point on semantics, but a warmer tint has ‘less’ contrast than a cool tint. A cool tint has high contrast leaving the shadows either in shadow or illuminated. A warmer tint gives more illumination to the shadow areas. Smile

Not sure I understand this. Wouldn’t the shadowed areas not receive any light?

When people say warm tints provide more contrast I think they are referring to: when outside there are lots of red and brown colors that are illuminated better with warm tints.

sidecross
sidecross's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 10/31/2015 - 18:55
Posts: 711
Location: North America

EasyB wrote:

Not sure I understand this. Wouldn’t the shadowed areas not receive any light?

When people say warm tints provide more contrast I think they are referring to: when outside there are lots of red and brown colors that are illuminated better with warm tints.


I was a freelance photojournalist in the 60’s and 70’s who did all my own darkroom work as well as trained in the Zone System made famous by Ansel Adams.

In both film and print high contrast eliminates detail in the shadows; a cool tint also provides greater contrast between shadow and high-light and leaving shadows with less detail.

“You must have a plan, if you don’t have a plan, you will become part of someone else’s plan.” Terence McKenna

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9973
Location: nyc
JasonWW wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
Definitely. I have one built as you describe. I’d have to look back through a a bunch of old messages but it’s hitting somewhere between 320 and 350 Kcd with a crazy pencil thin beam. Very lightsaber-like. Big Smile
Just out of curiosity, was the beam still usable or does it get too narrow? I’ve never seem beam shots of the little xpg2.

Fwiw, and just my 2¢ here, but I only bought my L2 because I wanted a super-thrower, basically a “flashlight laser” with ideally little to no spill, for “reaching out” long distances w/o washing out the foreground. Was between the L2 and a Maxtoch…

A “usable” flashlight with lots of spill kinda negates all that. I might as well just use a regular C8 for that…

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9973
Location: nyc
J-Dub74 wrote:
Deer come out to the edge of the woods at night to feed on some of the greenery growing there. Lighting them up from her deck at 800 feet and more is no problem though I had to look through binoculars to tell if they were deer or coyotes. They’re so small at that distance that they’re just tiny moving brownish shapes with glowing eyes. Grad

Or Jawas… Big Smile

(“Moffet! Moffet!”)

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 42 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1734
Location: Ohio
Lightbringer wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
Definitely. I have one built as you describe. I’d have to look back through a a bunch of old messages but it’s hitting somewhere between 320 and 350 Kcd with a crazy pencil thin beam. Very lightsaber-like. Big Smile
Just out of curiosity, was the beam still usable or does it get too narrow? I’ve never seem beam shots of the little xpg2.

Fwiw, and just my 2¢ here, but I only bought my L2 because I wanted a super-thrower, basically a “flashlight laser” with ideally little to no spill, for “reaching out” long distances w/o washing out the foreground. Was between the L2 and a Maxtoch…

A “usable” flashlight with lots of spill kinda negates all that. I might as well just use a regular C8 for that…

When I think of spill I think of the light directly from the LED that doesn’t hit the reflector. The L2 and C8 would have similar amounts of spill if using the same LED, the L2 would just have a more narrow beam.

A lens light (aspheric or fresnel) would have much less spill.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8569
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
sidecross wrote:
A minor point on semantics, but a warmer tint has ‘less’ contrast than a cool tint. A cool tint has high contrast leaving the shadows either in shadow or illuminated. A warmer tint gives more illumination to the shadow areas. Smile

I should clarify, it is not so much black and white contrast as color contrast.

The colors pop more with the higher CRI / neutral tint LED’s. Outside it was proven without a shadow of doubt that we could see things better at range with the warmer lights.

A very good example was my L6 vs S70.

The S70 makes more lumens and have more lux according to the light box/lux meter.

In the real world though it was unanimous with a rather large group of people that the L6 was the much better light as a thrower. In one particular case we were looking off a bridge at a creek and we were shining them at the same spot about ~300m away. Right at the edge of the effective beam.

With the S70 we could just barely make out the edge of the creek bed.

With the L6 we could see the rocks on the creek bed, the bushes, the vines and even a frog jumping (or a mouse, hard to tell at that distance).

It was actually a very eye opening moment as I knew that the S70 was both brighter and threw further on the meter. I even re-tested them when I got home with the same results. Ever since then I have put FAR less weight on lumen and throw numbers and far more on CRI and tint.

This same result was seen with all the lights that night, the neutral tints were always easier to see as the distance increased (and up close as well although it was not as big of a deal besides looking much prettier up close).

sidecross
sidecross's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 10/31/2015 - 18:55
Posts: 711
Location: North America

Texas_Ace wrote:
I should clarify, it is not so much black and white contrast as color contrast.

The colors pop more with the higher CRI / neutral tint LED’s. Outside it was proven without a shadow of doubt that we could see things better at range with the warmer lights.

A very good example was my L6 vs S70.

The S70 makes more lumens and have more lux according to the light box/lux meter.

In the real world though it was unanimous with a rather large group of people that the L6 was the much better light as a thrower. In one particular case we were looking off a bridge at a creek and we were shining them at the same spot about ~300m away. Right at the edge of the effective beam.

With the S70 we could just barely make out the edge of the creek bed.

With the L6 we could see the rocks on the creek bed, the bushes, the vines and even a frog jumping (or a mouse, hard to tell at that distance).

It was actually a very eye opening moment as I knew that the S70 was both brighter and threw further on the meter. I even re-tested them when I got home with the same results. Ever since then I have put FAR less weight on lumen and throw numbers and far more on CRI and tint.

This same result was seen with all the lights that night, the neutral tints were always easier to see as the distance increased (and up close as well although it was not as big of a deal besides looking much prettier up close).


+1

Contrast and tint do overlap in defining a usable light that our eyes can use to view or interpret. It is one reason a cool light has more lumens, which would also translate into an increase in contrast.

Edit: As a side note anyone who still remembers an analog TV with knobs for ‘brightness’ and ‘contrast’ could use these controls to illustrate their difference.

“You must have a plan, if you don’t have a plan, you will become part of someone else’s plan.” Terence McKenna

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20391
Location: Heart of Texas

A cool light has more lumens because it has less phosphor on the die. The natural output is UV light in blue tones, phosphor is added to produce the desired color results. Or at least that is how I understand it from explanations given earlier.

sidecross
sidecross's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 10/31/2015 - 18:55
Posts: 711
Location: North America

DB Custom wrote:
A cool light has more lumens because it has less phosphor on the die. The natural output is UV light in blue tones, phosphor is added to produce the desired color results. Or at least that is how I understand it from explanations given earlier.

+1

The Physics of light and how our eyes and brain perceive it could have its own thread. Smile

“You must have a plan, if you don’t have a plan, you will become part of someone else’s plan.” Terence McKenna

Pages