Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

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KawiBoy1428
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The reflector shoulders and bottoms out on the head I.D. Even shimming the mcpcb board up with a stripped board, the leads/reflector bottom interferes. Relieving or clearing the base of the reflector has to be done, use painters tape to cover both emitter hole and reflector top to keep most of the crap out, clear the interference by filing, sanding or machining, its alot of work, be careful don’t break thru into the reflector surface.

I machine the head to accept a 32mm Noctigon (XP/XHP35 build) or 26mm Maxtoch (XHP70/50 build)

Or cut/ machine the bottom out of the reflector out, and shim the mcpcb to focus…

The stock OP reflector measure 2.6mm clearance between centering ring and reflector base.

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JasonWW
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Or cut/ machine the bottom out of the reflector out, and shim the mcpcb to focus…



In this example, did you change to some different screws to apply downward pressure on the MCPCB since the reflector is no longer pushing it down?

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KawiBoy1428
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Correct. Drilled and tapped the solid aluminum press fit pill for 2mm flat head screws, the pill was pocketed to keep the mcpcb board on center.

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JasonWW
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JasonWW wrote:
Has anyone here noticed that the stock L6 reflector seems to press down on the red and black wire insulation more than it presses down on the centering ring?

I can remove my centering ring and the reflector won’t go down any farther.


Well, I was wrong. With no centering ring it does drop down a tiny bit and I can see the focus tighten up.

I’m slowly learning. Smile

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JasonWW
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DB Custom wrote:
MRsDNF already built a large one with air cooling holes through the finned pill, the next step would be to install a small MCU controlled fan and link it to the temperature. With a lot of the drivers now going to ATTiny25 and ATTiny85, the storage space is there for programming fan controls I would think, so yeah, just a matter of time…

I think your over thinking things. There are already tiny fans with temp probes built in that you just feed power to. They will come on at a low level when the probes reach a certain temp and speed up as the temp rises. They are used in computers.

I haven’t seen any tiny enough for flashlight use, but I’m sure they can be built or are already out there somewhere.

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JasonWW
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In a way, the emitter and mcpcb are just like a CPU. Current flashlight designs have given us these awesome emitters/cpus, but we are still relying on big old solid chunks of aluminum to absorb the heat. That only works for a short time. You can’t cool a computer with that. It’s like we’re still in the stone age.

You gotta have active cooling or maybe use heatpipe technology like laptops use if you wanna run it for a long time. Yeah, now we’re talking.

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JasonWW
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Here’s some simple mods I did to my L6.

I cut the bottom out of the SMO reflector and fabbed some very thin copper shims to play with the emmiter to reflector distance. I also swapped to new, longer screws to clamp down the emitter for good heat transfer.

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JasonWW
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I also wanted to share some info on this new FX-30 driver I got from Kaidomain. Not the Convoy version, the original.

This has a unique interface not described on the website. The tail switch puts it into standby and the side switch only has 3 brightness levels plus a strobe. You can turn the light on and off from the side switch. Very odd. I made a quick video on YouTube showing how it works and went into more details on it.

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Lightbringer
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JasonWW wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Has anyone here noticed that the stock L6 reflector seems to press down on the red and black wire insulation more than it presses down on the centering ring?

I can remove my centering ring and the reflector won’t go down any farther.


Well, I was wrong. With no centering ring it does drop down a tiny bit and I can see the focus tighten up.

I’m slowly learning. Smile

Same here… Big Smile

Might work for my F13, tnx!

(Was going to shave down the ring a bit to try to tighten up the focus, but it’s hard to unshave a ring.)

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JasonWW
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Lightbringer wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Has anyone here noticed that the stock L6 reflector seems to press down on the red and black wire insulation more than it presses down on the centering ring?

I can remove my centering ring and the reflector won’t go down any farther.


Well, I was wrong. With no centering ring it does drop down a tiny bit and I can see the focus tighten up.

I’m slowly learning. Smile

Same here… Big Smile

Might work for my F13, tnx!

(Was going to shave down the ring a bit to try to tighten up the focus, but it’s hard to unshave a ring.)


Be sure to use some tape to keep things insulated.

Buy a couple new rings, no worries.:)

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Lightbringer
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JasonWW wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
(Was going to shave down the ring a bit to try to tighten up the focus, but it’s hard to unshave a ring.)

Be sure to use some tape to keep things insulated.

Buy a couple new rings, no worries.:)

I got a bunch of PETE insulating discs for that, but they add their own thickness. Ah, these: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1138102 .

Had a bunch of paper insulators too, but no idea where they disappeared to. Silly Those would probably be a bit thinner, and more compressible, too.

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One word: ewww.

Lemon-yellow in/around the hotspot, angry blue in the spill. Pulling it out more or less “blends” it together.

Back to the stock spacer…

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DB Custom
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Jason, I might overbuild something but rarely ever think enough to be accused of over-thinking. Wink

I was cutting out the reflector like that on Courui D01’s (The Fathead) several years ago. But yeah, whatever it takes. Like Kawiboy I like to machine the emitter shelf to take a 26 or 32mm mcpcb in the L6, moving the contact pads much further out and making things easier. Or using the cut off tabs from a large Omten switch to move the connection outside the mcpcb and thus allow the extra room for the reflector by not having that wire there. Kapton tape is your friend. Smile

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Question about Richard’s 30mm FET driver. Anyone know what kind of amp draw I could expect with a couple of good 26650’s in an L-6?

JasonWW
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DB Custom wrote:

Like Kawiboy I like to machine the emitter shelf to take a 26 or 32mm mcpcb in the L6, moving the contact pads much further out and making things easier.

I don’t have any machine shop stuff. I cut my reflector bottom using an upside down router with the bit 1/8” up and slowly worked it around. It worked. Lol! Smile

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DB Custom
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And that’s what you do, you use what you have even if it takes a bit of creativity. When you succeed, it feels fantastic! The sense of accomplishment from doing something on sheer ingenuity makes you get addicted to the modding, and before you know it, you’re spending income tax return monies on a small lathe instead of something more frivolous. Big Smile

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Well, it seems that We do have a L2/L6 AR glass update, the new one is better, better looking and the total candelas upped with like 4-5k( L2 host).
IT also adds more reddish in the tint thus made the L2 beam profile even better for outdoor/hunting

Good!

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Update 2017-04-06
The short tube is finally available in the Convoy store. This tube will fit both the L2 and L6 and is meant for single 26650 builds, 2 cell 26350 builds and will probably fit 26700 cells though I can’t guarantee that. It is slightly longer than the older single cell tube to better accommodate more cell variations.

Purchase link here:
L2/L6 short tube

I’ve added this info and link to the OP as well.

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J-Dub74 wrote:
Update 2017-04-06 The short tube is finally available in the Convoy store.

Damn i was hoping it would fit the tactical ring..

Ah well cant have it all hehe Big Smile

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Tjhosan wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
Update 2017-04-06 The short tube is finally available in the Convoy store.

Damn i was hoping it would fit the tactical ring..

Ah well cant have it all hehe Big Smile


Yeah, it was supposed to actually but that slipped through the cracks on this first run. Tired If/when he does another run it will have the threaded rings.
Tjhosan
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J-Dub74 wrote:
Yeah, it was supposed to actually but that slipped through the cracks on this first run. Tired If/when he does another run it will have the threaded rings.

Aha i understand!

Lets quickly emty his stash of short tubes then, so that he can get that next run done Big Smile

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Tjhosan wrote:
J-Dub74 wrote:
Yeah, it was supposed to actually but that slipped through the cracks on this first run. Tired If/when he does another run it will have the threaded rings.

Aha i understand!

Lets quickly empty his stash of short tubes then, so that he can get that next run done Big Smile


Well said! Buy them up people! Thumbs Up
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Ordered one single-cell tube right away when you posted it Jdub , thanks …!

Now i wish i had 2× 26350 to power Dale’s beast …

JasonWW
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Has anyone modded their L6 to make the side switch slide out the hole?

A assumed there were 2 slots cut in the shelf the switch sits on or else the switch had 2 flat sides so that you could slide the switch out when replacing the driver.

Nope. I had the unsolder the leads. There is room for improvement here.

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KawiBoy1428
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Why? Most people just use the light. I just pull the switch out and file 2 slots in the hole with a small rat tail file or just de-solder the switch, no big deal!

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JasonWW
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I’m gonna be running indicator lights onto the switch so I might have 3 or 4 wires from it. I can’t remember where all the wires go! Lol. I’m also trying out a lot of different drivers in it lately.

I was thinking of using a jigsaw or maybe a Dremel with small diameter wheel. I think I’ll get me a small file as well and add slots to the hole. Takes longer, but less metal shavings everywhere.

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KawiBoy1428
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Yep I understand! Thumbs Up

You’d be surprised how little has to be filed out when you key hole the switch hole! Big Smile

It’s very thin so it’s pretty fast!

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Well, I somehow must have messed up my L6 driver trying to do a resistor mod. It has some flickering and can’t decide whether it wants to run in high or turbo. I never did get the resistor in. So before I order a stock replacement driver, should I consider other drivers? Not sure these shaky 63 yr old hands are cut out for teeny tiny part soldering. Or maybe get one and have someone else do the mod for me.

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I have still 3 unreserved 30mm Texas Avenger LDO drivers with latest Narsil

Temperature protection at whatever you want

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53599

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Thanks for the link. Trying to understand all the options vs output, probably very interested.

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