Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

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JasonWW
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Etex wrote:
Well, I somehow must have messed up my L6 driver trying to do a resistor mod. It has some flickering and can’t decide whether it wants to run in high or turbo. I never did get the resistor in. So before I order a stock replacement driver, should I consider other drivers? Not sure these shaky 63 yr old hands are cut out for teeny tiny part soldering. Or maybe get one and have someone else do the mod for me.

Use a magnifying glass and make sure the solder didn’t get on nearby components.

There is not too many choices for other drivers. There’s the Convoy version of FX30, there is the direct drive one that MTN sells, there’s the Texas Ace direct drive one that Lexel is making and then the stock FX30 that Kaidomain is selling. It’s a bit of an odd one, with 3 levels, standby and the same output as the Convoy version.

So if you want to turn it on/off from the rear switch you’d need the Convoy one or the TA one with it programmed to turn on at the rear switch.

If you want the rear switch to serve as lockout only and on/off from the side switch, them the Kaidomain, MTN or TA versions will work.

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Etex
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Thanks for the run down, especially w respect to rear switch. Do you know what kind of amps / lumens the DD from Mtn or TA run? Run time impacts?

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Etex wrote:
Thanks for the run down, especially w respect to rear switch. Do you know what kind of amps / lumens the DD from Mtn or TA run? Run time impacts?

I’ve never run a direct drive/fet driver in any of my lights, so I can’t help there.

I know DD is gonna give the highest amps and highest lumens if your into that. 9 to 12 amps, 6000+ lumen.

I’ll let others with more experience answer this question.

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Anthon
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Yesterday I made this combo

L2 + H1-A single cell boost driver from Kaidomain and XHP50.2

This is the result, no ringy at all and a very focussed beam, haven’t measured lumens or CD but it throws!!
I think it is around 2500lm, tailcap measurements shows 7A discharge on turbo from a liitokala 5000mah cell.

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I put a 50.2 in my L6 with SMO reflector with modded FX30 driver, about 8.9 amps, and wasn’t really impressed. The hotspot was about the same size as my sliced dome xhp70. Output was almost the same as well, but it sucked up the power. My xhp70 only drew about 8 amps. It did have less donut shape to it, but that yellow corona is not to my liking. I went back to the xhp70.

Now a shaved dome xhp50.2 might give a tighter hotspot for more throw, but I haven’t seen anyone do that yet.

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Anthon wrote:
This is the result, no ringy at all and a very focussed beam, haven’t measured lumens or CD but it throws!!

Ewww. That’s like my F13’s beam when I tried taking out the spacer to get the emitter deeper in the reflector for a little tighter focus. Lemon-yellow in the middle, Angry Blue™ around the outside.

Pulling it back out (with the spacer) at least seems to blend the colors together better, or at least does something to get rid of that.

Focus is still pretty good, but I wanted to tighten it up some.

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JasonWW wrote:
Now a shaved dome xhp50.2 might give a tighter hotspot for more throw, but I haven’t seen anyone do that yet.

Is it the dome that splits the colors like that? Wondering if a dedomed/shaved/HI emitter has the same issues.

Speaking of dedoming… Quick question, anyone know offhand if an XP-G3 or -G2 is better for dedoming, or put another way, if there are any particular issues with any particular models.

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Lightbringer wrote:

Speaking of dedoming… Quick question, anyone know offhand if an XP-G3 or -G2 is better for dedoming, or put another way, if there are any particular issues with any particular models.

You can’t really dedome a XP-G3 (well, and be left with anything usable) because of how the phosphor is applied. You can slice it, but I haven’t tried that personally. A XP-G2 takes well to dedoming.
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gchart wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Speaking of dedoming… Quick question, anyone know offhand if an XP-G3 or -G2 is better for dedoming, or put another way, if there are any particular issues with any particular models.
You can’t really dedome a XP-G3 (well, and be left with anything usable) because of how the phosphor is applied. You can slice it, but I haven’t tried that personally. A XP-G2 takes well to dedoming.

Great, tnx!

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Just put a XHP35 HI in my L2 host driven with a resistor modded H2-C driver.

Pulls around 8,8A from a liitokala 26650 resulting in just above 2A to the led.

Had to pot the driver in a mix of silicone and silicon carbide because it gets burning hot in a hurry.

Unfortunately i have no pictures of the driver grinded to fit the L2 or potted, just the completed light. I get abit carried away in the moment when im tinkering with my lights.
I will get some pictures when i open it up next time hehe.

Cant get any good beamshots because i only have my phone to take pictures with, trying to find a good spacer height atm i am using one that is 0,7mm and i am pretty ok with the hotspot but i feel like it could be better.

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While getting ready to replace my driver in my black L6 I happen to notice the wires reversed.

EDIT: IOW, the stock light from the factory had the leads reversed, red on (-) black on (+).

I checked the wires on the stock driver and they seemed properly placed. JasonWW suggested it was probably the “factory” LED being put on backwards. So I installed a new TA Driver I received from Lexel and just matched the backward wiring on the mcpcb, and it works.

Just making a note here for others to double check before you desolder and not notice wire placement.

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Thanks Etex! Smile At least someone is hearing me! Wink

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It’s an easy mistake to make so I always verify where +/- actually are before installing the mcpcb in the host.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
It’s an easy mistake to make so I always verify where +/- actually are before installing the mcpcb in the host.

I think you might have misunderstood. (Or did I not understand what you said?)

Someone at the factory installed the xhp70 emitter backwards on the star/mcpcb. So the plus and minus printed on the star are no longer correct.

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True Jason, but if the light was working before the mod, simply adhering to the placement of pos/neg wires would have done the trick without worrying about it. I have put one on the star backwards before and wired it accordingly to save time, then later, re-modding it, the wiring was confusing. The simple logic that it worked that way made it clear what I’d done before. Wink

My L2 should be here tomorrow, left Austin earlier this evening, so I’ll be ready to put the XHP-35 in it and have some fun. Smile

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Anyone with Texas Avenger in a L6, and Narsil experience know if this is normal.

When side switch is turned off, but not off at the tail switch, the emitter has a very low glow, to it. Its almost like having an illuminated switch at the head. Just wondering if I did something wrong.

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Did you ask Lexel yet?

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EasyB
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I’ve also observed emitters glowing in my 2s 7xXPL light with a FET driver. I also observe the glowing in its current configuration which is a FET and voltage divider, no MCU. I think it is simply the leakage current of the FET. You don’t see glowing in 1s lights because the voltage across the FET is lower so lower leakage current. Also when the batteries in my 2s light are lower voltage, like 3.7V, the glowing is dimmer or non existent.

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Thanks EasyB

Maybe I can assume I didn’t get to sloppy w soldering. For my use, it will act as a tail switch “is on” indicator (& battery warning, come to think of it). Very faint spot of light on the ground when walking (arms down). Not even enough light to read a map in the pitch dark.

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Try doing an amp draw across the tail cap (EDIT: with the light off on the side switch)

You also might ask Texas Ace since he designed these drivers.

I’ve never heard of this happening, but then again, TA drivers in L6’s are kinda rare.

I’ll let you know if mine does it once I get my driver.

You could always add a led under a clear side switch cover to let you know the rear switch is on. Also to help find the switch at night. Smile

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Etex
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JasonWW wrote:
Try doing an amp draw across the tail cap.

You also might ask Texas Ace since he designed these drivers.

I’ve never heard of this happening, but then again, TA drivers in L6’s are kinda rare.

I’ll let you know if mine does it once I get my driver.

You could always add a led under a clear side switch cover to let you know the rear switch is on. Also to help find the switch at night. Smile

Wouldn’t you know it…I go reread / youtube amp draw measuring only to find out my Fluke 1587 only does 400ma, and has a blown fuse, to boot.

Remember mine has the Infineon and if your getting SIR800, it may be apples to oranges.

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I tested the drivers with a Nichia 219 triple so on LDO drivers I did not drive the driver and LEDs with 2S voltage

My guess on that glow is a faulty 7135 that causes a very low leak current

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Lexel wrote:
I tested the drivers with a Nichia 219 triple so on LDO drivers I did not drive the driver and LEDs with 2S voltage

My guess on that glow is a faulty 7135 that causes a very low leak current

Ok, thanks for that. Then chances are my second driver may not exhibit the same when I install it.

That makes my one of a kind light, “extra special”. Thumbs Up

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Lexel wrote:
I tested the drivers with a Nichia 219 triple so on LDO drivers I did not drive the driver and LEDs with 2S voltage

My guess on that glow is a faulty 7135 that causes a very low leak current


You may be right, but I’ve observed the glowing with a FET-only driver with Zener mod.
EasyB wrote:
I’ve also observed emitters glowing in my 2s 7xXPL light with a FET driver. I also observe the glowing in its current configuration which is a FET and voltage divider, no MCU. I think it is simply the leakage current of the FET. You don’t see glowing in 1s lights because the voltage across the FET is lower so lower leakage current. Also when the batteries in my 2s light are lower voltage, like 3.7V, the glowing is dimmer or non existent.

I just experimented with a couple FETs I bought from mtnelectronics. Their spec is for ~1 microamp leakage current at 0V gate voltage and 20V drain-source voltage. I measured it with an LED in the circuit and got less than 0.1 microamp at 20V (not measurable on my DMM) and the LED did not glow at all. So FET leakage at 0V gate voltage cannot explain the glow. With my sliding resistor 7xXPL light the lowest setting has the gate voltage not equal to 0V, so that could explain some higher leakage in that case. But when I had a FET-only driver with Zener mod I also observed the glowing, so this is unexplained by me.

To satisfy my curiosity I measured the current through an LED necessary to notice the glowing. It needs about 5 microamps to clearly notice the glowing. To measure this I just put a 4.7 megaohm resistor in series with the LED while adjusting the voltage and measuring the current.

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My Noctigon Meteor M43 will do this, glow when off. I have 12 XP-L emitters and a single 17mm FET driver, not zener modified as I’m running 4P cells. I have to keep it in lockout or it will drain the cells.

It makes 11,700 lumens in Turbo, so I’m not going to complain about a slight glow when off. Wink (After I typed that 11,700, my memory question check kicked in. It’s up around 11,000 I know but that specific 11,700 is possibly wrong.)

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Found my old cheap meter with 10amp dc capability (I dont have a clamp meter). Made 2 × 6” 10ga leads. Measured Stock L6 vs TA Driver L6 mod on the same Keeppower Protected cells @ 4.16v = 5.4 amp vs 7.6 amp, does that seem reasonably close as comparison? How would 40% increase in amps relate to lumens? I don’t have a lux meter.

Got some of the new Shockli 5500mah on the way, expect they will do better.

I’m new at this.

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Look at djozz’s XHP70 measurements to get an idea of the output increase. They are buried in the long XHP70 thread. If you do a Google image search for ‘XHP70 test” you will see the graph. Just a rough estimate is 40% increase in current might give you 30-35% increase in lumens.

The shockli cells will perform better. Where did you buy them?

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EasyB wrote:

The shockli cells will perform better. Where did you buy them?

Ordered them direct from Shockli / Windyfire.

Quote from Shockli:

“Please check the below cost of 4pcs Shockli 26650,5500mAh battery

goods value:$4.78*4=$19.12

shipping cost by Fujian post: $8.4, it will take about 20-25 days to your place.

paypal handing fee: $1.1

So the total cost of the order is $28.62,”

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Thanks. That’s a real good price if you buy enough to spread out the shipping cost.

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Etex wrote:
Found my old cheap meter with 10amp dc capability (I dont have a clamp meter). Made 2 × 6” 10ga leads. Measured Stock L6 vs TA Driver L6 mod on the same Keeppower Protected cells @ 4.16v = 5.4 amp vs 7.6 amp, does that seem reasonably close as comparison?

I meant, do an amp draw at the tail with the light off, not on. That way you can see the amount of drain.

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