Ultrafire F13 MT-G2 mod by ZozzV6

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ZozzV6
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Ultrafire F13 MT-G2 mod by ZozzV6

Hi everyone!
I made an Ultrafire F13 MT-G2 mod for a Hungarian forum member Kozy. Tha light contains an MT-G2 led on noctigon and an MTN-22DD driver from Richard with Guppydrv firmware. Because of shipping costs I choosed driver DIY parts kit and empty PCB to keep the costs down as possible. Then the light working with two 26350 cells.

The driver packages:

Reflowed driver:

Spring with bypass:

Parts:

I bent the wires this L shape because I don’t left much clearance in the driver cavity with the added copper mass. It has only 1mm between the copper and the highest component of the driver which is the AtTiny:

The F13 has a so thin led shelf like a paper. Even has a hole in the center from machining so it really need added mass under the shelf for using MT-G2:

Adding some copper:

The copper rod I have is a little small in diameter so I cut two C forms out of aluminum sheet to fit the copper very tight and can give th heat to the sides:

Gluing in with fujik:


The beautiful macro of MT-G2. I really like seeing the many small diodes inside:

Reflector hole opened up to fit the big one:

Perfect fit of 22mm driver. I haven’t got picture but I added kapton tape between the copper and driver for safety:

Led glued in and soldered wires:

Finished:

Moon mode:

Outside at full power(sorry for poor phone beamshots). It draws 7,6A at max from two 4,05V rested 26350-s and gets untouchable hot at 40 seconds. It was totally dark outside. All of the light is coming from this beast:

Edited by: ZozzV6 on 11/06/2016 - 01:16
Cula
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That is a proper EDC powerhouse Zozz. I love MT-G2’s. Very nice job on reflowing the driver Thumbs Up .

WillyD
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Thanks for posting this build, and very nice job. The F13 is a good host, but as you pointed out, it needs extra heat sinking. Do you see any issues with the positive end of the cell hitting the driver retaining ring? I was planning on putting some sort of nylon washer in there as a shield as it just looked way to close if the cell got off center at all.

ZozzV6
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WillyD wrote:
Do you see any issues with the positive end of the cell hitting the driver retaining ring?

I was a little afraid too. And it’s very close. The driver retaining ring is really beefy so with a dremel you can machine out some material from inside without weaking it too much.

With the driver I have one problem. It has self adjusted turbo timer but I cant set it. I pressed repidly the button 8 times or so to enter programming mode. After that I need to press rapidly 30 times then the light supposed to switch on full power and if I feel hot enough switch off to memorize time. But when I press the 30 times it blinks and switch to low mode. So I able to set the mode group what I wanted but can’t set turbo timer.

EasyB
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Looks like an impressive little flooder.

ZozzV6 wrote:

With the driver I have one problem. It has self adjusted turbo timer but I cant set it. I pressed repidly the button 8 times or so to enter programming mode. After that I need to press rapidly 30 times then the light supposed to switch on full power and if I feel hot enough switch off to memorize time. But when I press the 30 times it blinks and switch to low mode. So I able to set the mode group what I wanted but can’t set turbo timer.

This might be because you are not clicking it exactly 30 times. This has happened to me before with guppy FW.

ZozzV6
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I tried 29 to 31 presses but nothing. I will try it again.

Bc412
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What needed to be done with the reflector to make it fit the mtg2?

ZozzV6
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The stock hole at the bottom was about 5mm diameter. I used dremel with a little milling tool to make it bigger. About 8,5mm to fit the MT-G2 dome.

mattlward
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All of you are killing me… I have not built an MT_G2 yet and I am really going to have to. Nice work!

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

DB Custom
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Nicely done, paying the extra attention to get the copper wedged in tight is why it gets untouchable hot in 40 seconds, it’s working! Smile

Great light, with enough modes it’s easy to control battery run time and use just what’s needed for the job at hand. Turbo with a fresh battery will definitely hurt people’s eyes! I’m sure this one is going to be treasured.

I put an MT-G2 in a C8 that has ultra low sub lumen moon, it’s beautiful to look at all those tiny dies in action. lol

A question, why did you leave the C1 off? I know Richard likes to use a second 10uF cap for the Zener to smooth things down, and I’ve done this a lot of times, but I’ve always used the called for C1 AND the second Zener Cap. So it showed immediately obvious to me that you left off C1. Had to wonder what that does…

Dale

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Worthy to mention, as well, if you’ll put the spring bypass INSIDE the spring, it greatly reduces any possibility of that positive wire coming loose and grounding out. I have fixed many a light that friends sent me where the spring bypass failed, solder joint broke. Just a thought….

Dale

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Nice work on the F13! And a MT-G2 akways looks good inside a reflector!

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I did a very similar build with UF13 and MT-G2 a couple of month ago, but I used a modified BLF X6 driver and glued a copper coin under the shelf. I like this light a lot, but what bothered me from the beginning was the uneven spot with the yellow dots within – which is typical for MT-G2. I ordered an OP reflector, but didn’t use it yet. After reading of DC-Fix I bought “static premium no. 35” and put a piece of it under the glass. Now the light is the perfect flooder without any defined hotspot and with a wonderful natural white tint, best I have seen so far. Light loss with DC-Fix is only about 7%.

Btw., did you insulate the reflector at the bottom? Otherwise the thin silicon skin on the LED might be worn of soon and the LED/driver gets shorted.

ZozzV6
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Thanks for the ideas.

djburkes
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I really like that look of that MT-G2!! Great job!!

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Great mod.

I just bought the same light, but might use an xhp70 in it.
Kaidomain has a 3 amp boost driver I might try. That’s only 2500 lumen, but should give good run times.

If that doesn’t work out I’ll get the same driver you did and some 26350’s.

I might also use a shortened C8 reflector with OP finish. If I cut 5mm off the big end I can add a 5mm copper slug under the star. Then add copper under the shelf as well. I want a big hotspot and good spill, so a shortened reflector should do the trick.

Maybe drill 2 extra holes, thread the upper copper holes and countersunk the bottom holes and use machine screws to squeeze the 2 copper chunks together with the shelf in the middle. Just an idea.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

kiriba-ru
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JasonWW wrote:

I might also use a shortened C8 reflector with OP finish. If I cut 5mm off the big end I can add a 5mm copper slug under the star. Then add copper under the shelf as well. I want a big hotspot and good spill, so a shortened reflector should do the trick.

35mm is not rare size, better to find more suitable reflector.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

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kiriba-ru wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

I might also use a shortened C8 reflector with OP finish. If I cut 5mm off the big end I can add a 5mm copper slug under the star. Then add copper under the shelf as well. I want a big hotspot and good spill, so a shortened reflector should do the trick.

35mm is not rare size, better to find more suitable reflector.

I already have it collecting dust, so why not use it?

Who might sell shorter 35mm reflectors?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

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Because somebody have modded his light and have collecting what do you need.
For example, I have used reflector from Small Sun ZY-T624 for EC4 mod and it was 35mm od, small height OP reflector, while zy is waiting for triple mod.
This size is widespread, lots of ***fire clones with C2 name use same 35mm OP reflector.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

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I see.

I’m going to have to experiment by cutting the reflector a little at a time to get the beam and spill I want. If I can’t get it right I will ask around to see what people have.

I might cut it down 10mm or 15mm. I like the S2+ beam pattern. Lol

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000

JasonWW
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New plan, I think I’ll install a side clicky switch in that cavity above the driver. Then a rod to extend it to the outside.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

NarsilM user videos https://www.youtube.com/user/JasonWW2000