Review: The new HaikeLite MT07 - Buffalo XHP70 thrower

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leaftye
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The L6 XHP70 isn’t a pure thrower either, so don’t waste your money on that either. You want a pencil beam thrower. This light is for those of us that want to put a lot of light a moderate distance down range and still have decent illumination everywhere else. Pencil beam throwers are amazing, but I have no use for a pencil beam thrower, and aside from a couple zoomies, I don’t have a single pencil beam thrower among my shelves of lights. Do what’s best for your needs. There are plenty of good lights, and this is one of them even if it doesn’t suit your particular requirements.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

will34
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Leaftye your version is 2S2P or 4S?

leaftye
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Looks like 2S2P unless they did some funny business with the traces. Wait a sec…brain fart. I’ll take a closer look and get back to you.

The low mode should be lower.

Reviews: Efan IMR18350 700mAh 10.5A, <a href="http://

JockRobbins
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will34 wrote:
A thrower is not purely how much peak kcd it makes but how it manages to deliver usable light at long distances.

Totally agree, that’s exactly my thoughts on long range lights. I hate laser-like 750klux 2” wide beams.
But when I read someone saying a dedicated thrower didn’t hurl enough light down-range, that’s the kind of thing I take notice of. BTW – I’m one of those C8 weapon mount users Cool
Mine has the same dedomed U4 as the 2X Shooter in it.

Tom E
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bibihang wrote:
Tom E wrote:

This light is very different from an Olight X7 in many ways - thrower vs. flooder, more efficiency from 3 XHP70's vs. one, etc. The X7 is comparable to the MT03 which is a smaller in size and weight from the MT07.

Checking my notes, there is a 4S variation of the MT07 - the one reviewed is 2S2P. I opted to review the 2S2P version. The 4S version is said to have full current regulation, shorter run times, and recommended to use protected batteries.

Both of the 2S2P and 4S1P configurations should offer the same runtime. You get lower overall capacity with 4S1P but the current draw from each battery is lower than the 2S2P configuration and it can also offer the flat output although with 4S1P there is a higher chance to go "Note 7" if the batteries voltage are not balance lol.

I believe the electronics works differently in the 4S config - it's a buck driver in this state, and he said 4S has current regulation, so I'd expect the runtime curve to be flat, or flatter, therefore more power (I * V) used during the cycle resulting in shorter runtimes.

Tom E
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Updated the turbo mode discharge curve in the OP. here it is:

This is now scaled in time properly, and the temperatures were taken with a IR thermometer at the hosttest section of the surface, which is just above the switch.

bibihang
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Tom E wrote:

I believe the electronics works differently in the 4S config – it’s a buck driver in this state, and he said 4S has current regulation, so I’d expect the runtime curve to be flat, or flatter, therefore more power (I * V) used during the cycle resulting in shorter runtimes.


Yes the 4S batteries can sustain the Turbo output constantly and it consumes more power overall, I agree on this.

The problem is we don’t really have a standard to define the runtime of a light can offer (i.e. until it drops to how many % of initial output), this is why some manufacturers have this “Turbo mode can last for a few hours” kind of claim lol, which is quite misleading I know.

phosphor
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I wonder who’s spamming personal email accounts to sell these…I got a sales pitch for the HaikeLites to my in-box….I don’t appreciate that!

will34
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phosphor wrote:
I wonder who’s spamming personal email accounts to sell these…I got a sales pitch for the HaikeLites to my in-box….I don’t appreciate that!

Same here, and I don’t even remember sharing my personal email address with them.

Tom E
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will34 wrote:
phosphor wrote:
I wonder who's spamming personal email accounts to sell these...I got a sales pitch for the HaikeLites to my in-box....I don't appreciate that!
Same here, and I don't even remember sharing my personal email address with them.

Weird - I didn't get any and I know they have my email address. Checked my junk folder too.

Fatlight
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Well, 4s setup is preferred from the vantage point of future compatibility with 12v led emitters. If an idealistic future 12v xhp90 Hi is produced then this host can be taken to a whole new level with just a emitter swap. Just need to confirm if this driver is 12v led capable in the 4s version which is highly likely . Anyway xhp70 is no longer young and a new Cree emitter might be already in the works, the xhp50 /70 Hi version ought to be the next rollout after xhp35Hi.

If U R reading this, U R also a Flashaholic. Pfft <3

Tom E
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Added some wall beamshots to the OP, comparing all 5 modes to the 4 modes of the L6.

Texas_Ace
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In the beam shots the L6 looks to have a tighter hot spot?

Tom E
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Texas_Ace wrote:
In the beam shots the L6 looks to have a tighter hot spot?

Hhmm, I agree - not too crazy bout how the pics came out. Meter and outdoor testings shows the MT07 throws further though. Sorry - @work, can't recall details - have to re-check, but I think the camera showed a surrounding corona as part of the hotspot, so the true hotspot is smaller. Seen this before - I'm not a camera hobbyist, so just trial&error with camera settings.

On my compact Lumix, used Manual mode - F6.3 1/8 sec, auto WB, auto ISO. Could not get any available white balance setting to look like what I was seeing - AWB looked the best. Realized after should have used a fixed ISO setting though. Lights were 4' 8" from wall, camera was 5' 6.5" from the wall.

casi29061965
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Thanks a lot for the nice review !
Greets
Carsten

Tom E
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Thanx! Just added another wall shot comparison - represents what I'm seeing better.

Tac Gunner
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Thanks for this review. With all the heat sinking in this light my main use would be with it mounted on a tripod as a work light running at about 1k lumens (500 would provably suffice). I would think in this configuration you would be able to get relatively good runtimes being as how you can get 7 minutes from it at almost 5k lumens before it steps down. Still waiting on reviews of the MT03 before I decide on which model to get though.

Texas_Ace
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1000 lumens would need about about ~7 watts.

18650’s generally have about ~12 watt hours.

So that is 48wh / 7 = 6.8 hours of runtime @ 1000 lumens.

Now actual runtime will vary some due to driver efficiency losses among other things but still, ~6 hours @ ~1000 lumens should be within reason.

Tom E
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Yep, this light is built like a tank. GA's are the best for this light, fit with no issues, so would have 14 amp-hours. The $5 price per GA is a good deal, being offered in the group buy for this light here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50791.

 

 

Mstevens113
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Any reviews out there with outdoor beam shots?

Tom E
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I've been trying to get to it - can't guarantee outcome, but either me or mhanlen will have them posted first.

adirondackdestroyer
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Thanks for the review! Look’s like I’ll be picking this one up too, can’t even stop myself lol
Have you thought about doing a runtime test on the high mode?

mhanlen
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Hey guys I’ve been slow getting around to this one. Got some numbers last night… Umm… anyone else test theirs? I’m getting near L6 readings- better, but not by a whole lot. I have them side by side and just looking at them on a wall- well they look about the same- numbers aside. You know other than the HaikeLite having a more Neutral tint. My GAs are on the charger after finishing a runtime test, I was testing with 3000 mah HG2s.

unknown00101
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First thing I would check is that all of your cells are making proper contact. Someone had issues with their HG2’s.

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unknown00101 wrote:
First thing I would check is that all of your cells are making proper contact. Someone had issues with their HG2’s.

I’ll check it later today. I mean, I threw them all on my charger afterward.. and all 4 voltages were 4.13-4.15. Output has been steady, and not flickering- so it doesn’t feel likely. I’ll still check anyway. I will try my GAs too- they were charging when performing my lux and lumen test on turbo. By the way I’m using button top GAs and HG2… and they’re fairly close in dimensions, so that would also seem odd. Flat tops won’t make contact on my light, so I can’t use any of those.

unknown00101
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Oh, you’re probably fine as far as contact goes then. The problem was with flattop HG2’s.

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Ok, well I have some stuff to check after work tonight then. I have the Neutral White version, Tom seems to have the cool white version. I wonder if anyone else got the NW version and had tested it.

Tom E
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I got #'s posted in the OP ?? And yes - mine is N4 CW, the NW is N2. Also I would not use HG2's - the light will work fine on one pair with the other pair not making contact. Actually I never got HG2's to work.

In my  MT07, I removed the plastic pieces around the Batt+ contact on both ends - now all flat top cells work smile. They were glued down, relatively easy to remove - finger nail or flat head tool, just a bit messy looking with the glue remnants. Before I did this, and what drove me to doing it, I had 4 GA cells in the light doing a quick test. Afterward, I was gonna top off the cells, and notice one pair was 4.15V and the other pair was 4.20V - ? Only way I could explain this was one pair wasn't making contact. So even with the best fitting flat top (edit) cells, the GA's, it's a hit and miss.

I got two L6's and in stock form, both don't compare well to the MT07 - the MT07- is about 1,200 lumens brighter and 73 kcd for the L6, 132 kcd for the MT07.

mhanlen
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Tom E wrote:

I got #‘s posted in the OP ?? And yes – mine is N4 CW, the NW is N2. Also I would not use HG2’s – the light will work fine on one pair with the other pair not making contact. Actually I never got HG2’s to work.


In my  MT07, I removed the plastic pieces around the Batt+ contact on both ends – now all flat top cells work smile. They were glued down, relatively easy to remove – finger nail or flat head tool, just a bit messy looking with the glue remnants. Before I did this, and what drove me to doing it, I had 4 GA cells in the light doing a quick test. Afterward, I was gonna top off the cells, and notice one pair was 4.15V and the other pair was 4.20V – ? Only way I could explain this was one pair wasn’t making contact. So even with the best fitting cells, the GA’s, it’s a hit and miss.


I got two L6’s and in stock form, both don’t compare well to the MT07 – the MT07- is about 1,200 lumens brighter and 73 kcd for the L6, 132 kcd for the MT07.

Is all of this true with button top cells too? Because that’s all I’m using. I understand you have CW numbers in the OP… I was wanting numbers for the NW light. I wouldn’t expect the brightness difference between the two bins, being what I’m describing- but I was curious what someone got with the NW.

southland
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Nice review, going to purchase one. Can anyone tell me the advantages and disadvantages of the different battery configurations on the MT07 and MT03?

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