Skilhunt H03 Review

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vinte77
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Lexel wrote:
I managed to take the light apart its is glued, but with some heat and not much force it gets loose
Unfortinually I slipped off the head and my F version is now missing the external TIR lens as it broke the plastic joint
Probably its better to bend the side with the switch with some spacer and opposite side to hold the head, not like I did the side with the lens and TIR optic mounted
Or remove the external TIR optic whith its base

For my nitecore P12 I used way more force and heat but it resisted to get opened

Not much to see on the circuit board a lot small resistors and the ICs are fixed with some non transparent glue

I did a spring bypass, if you want pictures I will make some

Pictures would be appreciated.

Lexel
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LED swap is no problem, just 4 screws and you can extract the lens, reflector and MCPCB.

If you want more throw with XPL HI maybe, but the XML U4 is as bright as an XPL HD V6

Opening the tube to get to the driver is harder.

Gunga
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I’m all about tint. If the neutral is not nice I’ll try a different xml2 or try to get a Nichia in there.

-X3-
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Gunga wrote:
I’m all about tint. If the neutral is not nice I’ll try a different xml2 or try to get a Nichia in there.

Please let us know if you try a Nichai under that TIR… I know that it may not be nice to mix 3535 footprint with TIR, at least that’s what happen with Olight TIRs.
I swapped mine with a spare XM-L2 (T4-7A) to make it better, will swap again when I receive my T5-5D1 80+ CRI.

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chadvone
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Mine showed up today. First Sat off in long time and I got something to play with.

Really liking it so far. My head seams to really tit on the body, want to 18350 one.

everydaysurvivalgear
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Glad you like it. The only issue I have is if wear a hat fishing. The TIR optics will go to waste if I wear the hat lol not really an issue but I do usually wear a hat while fishing. The beam is so wide its awesome. You can leave the light in any position and it will give enough light up or down without having to tilt.

chadvone
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Noticed.
Double click always goes to the brighter turbo.
Flash when using the brighter low.

Edit. smaller than the AT Wizard and H02.
Magnet not as strong as Wizard, better than H02, but is a smaller light.

Still cant get the head off.

Lexel
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The head is glued but with some heat and force it opens

You need way more force to open it than you could do with bare hands but a lot less than I used and failed on my nitecore P12.

The head and body has plane areas you can use a machine vise to hold the body or head and a little vise to twist the other body part counterclockwise

You can use a washer around the switch and some wood on the opposite side to hold the head tight.

Heat always helps to make the glue less strong.

chadvone
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Put it into headlamp mode tonight, by using a H02 Headband, It was a loose fit, but worked great with the clip left on the light. And was easier to install and remove from the head band.

To the basement I go..

chadvone
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Bingo came out to smidge over 2.5 inches. With some friends.!

H03 18350, S15 -cap&switch boot, H03 ,WizardPro, H02

Lexel
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so from which light is that short tube?

I did today some beamshots

chadvone
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I believe it was a a BLF A6 18350 tube that didn’t work for the A6.
dekozn
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X3 wrote:
Gunga wrote:
I’m all about tint. If the neutral is not nice I’ll try a different xml2 or try to get a Nichia in there.

Please let us know if you try a Nichai under that TIR… I know that it may not be nice to mix 3535 footprint with TIR, at least that’s what happen with Olight TIRs.
I swapped mine with a spare XM-L2 (T4-7A) to make it better, will swap again when I receive my T5-5D1 80+ CRI.

Does that mean that the H03R would accommodate a nichia better then the TIR version? I Have both and would like a High CRI LED in one of them.
Could some one recommend me a high cri nichia to put in on of them?
Lexel
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The H03 has a 5050 footprint, so the TIR should be set up for this
The difference should not be that big

vinte77
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I’m thinking of swapping a nichia led in, what size is the mcpcb?

Lexel
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It is 12 or 13mm and 2mm thick

So you have most likely get a small one or get a 16mm and get it smaller as you need DTP to get the Nichia to 3A

The board gets pressed against the body only by the reflector centering ring

everydaysurvivalgear
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Use thermal adhesive like artic silver.

Gunga
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It’s a 15mm or so. I did a bit of filing of a 16mm noctigon but decided to just reflow a new neutral xml2.

Lexel
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I replaced the front glass with one from my Jetbeam Jet-1 MK

I think that was 14 or 15mm diameter, the LED board has a bit less diameter

As the LED light has a Turbo stepdown a DTP board would not be really better than a good copper board
The MXL2 footprint is better on normal boards as it is bigger than XPL

vinte77
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I did a mcpcb/led swap to a noctigon and xpg3 90cri 5700k led. I had to trim the 16mm noctigon down to about 15mmish with a dremel. The stock board is held on pretty good with thermal paste, but a tiny flat head got it out. It didn’t take long to do the swap after I trimmed the mcpcb down. I might swap out the led to a nichia 219c 90cri from the group buy, but it’s not bad the way it is now. While I had the solder out, I did a spring bypass on the tail end but I didn’t have the time to get the head off to do the bypass on the top end (I’m not even sure it will help much at this power level).

Lexel
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good news the BLF A6 short tube fits

as the threads are longer you have to move orings from the original inner position to the outer
but BLF o rings are way too thick, also the Skilhunt orings are a bit too thick or the BLF tube too thick,
cant describe it better with my english so look at the picture
the BLF tube O-ring inner diameter is 20.5mm and skilhunt 20.2mm
so I need some thinner o-rings or reduce the blf tube diameter


RobertB
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If anyone is looking for semi-hardshell cases for headlamps, A guy from CPF told me about them. Gloworm cases. $3.00 plus a couple dollars shipping. I don’t know if they will ship out of the US or not.

Lexel
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So to make the BLF O-rings fit I used carefully a Dremel to remove anodisation
and then a saw to get about 0.5mm less diameter

now it fits perfectly
the BLF Tube is only 2.5g lighter as its thicker, but with smaller battery and magnet removed its a lot lighter





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Thank you very much for this well documented modding !
I’ll surely do the same, but I have to order the short A6 tube before Smile

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Thanks for the info lads!
The shorter tube is cool for EDC use. I would stick to my 18650 just because when i use a headlamp its on for a while. But if your fishing and just need like a basic low light setting so people can spot you and dont want the extra weight its a great mod!

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I did swap the LED as it had a noticeable green yellow tint probably 3B or 3C

replaced with a XML2 U3-3D from intl outdoor
http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml2-u3-3d-bare-led-p-904.html
I am very pleased with this batch already modded one into my Nitecore P12

There are nice things to report and I did some measurements for modding

the front glass is 17mm wide and 1mm thick,
ecxactly the same as my Jetbeam Jet-1 MK so I got an AR one inside

the driver uses a 0.082 Ohm resistor for current sense, so it could be modded easily

the Star in it has 15mm size and is a true DTP, so no filing down a Noctigon needed

there are markings on the back of the star looking like the footprint

it is flat with some marks of machining
sanded 5 seconds with little press with 600 sandpaper, see its almost flat, the edges are rounded towards the LED side

sanded down 10 more seconds and all machining marks gone
quick polish with 1500 and 5000 sandpaper

In the head the heat paste is evenly across the whole star and also squeezed out on all sides

The head has about 15mm flat machined surface it looks really bad in the picture but in real its almost flat

Reflowing the LED

first heat it up on my induction stove with a 10mm iron plate and 5mm aluminium plate with thermal paste on top of it, till the solder melts
then removing old solder with a qtip and regulating the heat down
the LED is also heated up on a clean part of the metal plate

adding Sn60Pb37Ag3 rosin flux core solder or solder paste, the 0,5mm solder wire is not easy to melt as the temperature is not much above the melt point

I use the one with lead as its melting point is lower and thats less stress for the emitter

placing the hot star on it, let it pull on its own in the centered position
then tap on the star to push out solder to close the tiny gap to increase heat transfer
and this makes all 3 pads covered on 100% of the surface with solder

putting Arctic silver on the body, was too much but it will squeeze out

placing the Star in the head, it is a bit bigger than the anodized hole so I had to put it in sideways, thats why the star is not round all the way
the arctic silver squeezed out at the holes, but wasnt enough to do on the rounded edges

dekozn
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Nice than u for posting the mod very usefull

Justintoxicated
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I have done several mods to mine as well.

1) Added a second magnet so now the magnet is like 3-4x as strong

2) Did the 18350 battery tube mod, combined the light can hold it’s own weight from only the head of a screw (althought currently running a 16340)!

Picture is me cutting boxes to wall hang a TV.
3) Swapped the emitter with nichia 219c 4000k http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026300.Nichia-219C-Neutral-White-4000K-CRI92-LED-Emitter-with-KDLIGHT-3535-16-16mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-(1-pc)

The emitter on the board was the right height and fit in the head with no sanding (tight fit though!) The optic still presses on the MCPCB and the optic still screws down perfect. However of the optic is made for a larger LED, although the pressure seems to be holding it in place and the board does not really have much room to move (well maybe a little)…

It seems to work fine like it is, but does anyone know which 219c TIR I could replace the stock one with? Anyone know what the stock one even is?

Thanks!

Justintoxicated
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X3 wrote:
Gunga wrote:
I’m all about tint. If the neutral is not nice I’ll try a different xml2 or try to get a Nichia in there.
Please let us know if you try a Nichai under that TIR… I know that it may not be nice to mix 3535 footprint with TIR, at least that’s what happen with Olight TIRs. I swapped mine with a spare XM-L2 (T4-7A) to make it better, will swap again when I receive my T5-5D1 80+ CRI.

I’m running a 4000k 219c in mine. So far everything has been good. Still just a nice floody light. The LED has to be manually centered. I got the emitter on a 16mm board from Kaidomain. The Kaidomain boards may be a bit thinner than noctigon boards (At least my tripple was), but they are still direct thermal path and the single emitter boards are also gold plated I think. Interestingly the TIR makes the LED appear more white and less creamy than my other lights with reflectors and tripple optics using 4000k 219c emitters). Now it could be tint lottery but I kinda doubt it as I have the same KD stuff in them.

I had an issue with the U4 neutral white that came in mine. When using it in the yard the tall grass would make my eyes go buggy, might have something to do with the tint, and TIR combination but I know it made me feel kinda funny when trying to walk in tall grass. I know it sounds weird but the only other time I have felt strange while moving and using a light is with old lights with poor PWM. I no longer get this feeling with the nichia 219c 4000k, and colors render much better, of course I lost come brightness, but it’s still very bright and usable. I absolutely love this headlamp now that the 219C in there. It may not be my fanciest, or prettiest light, but functionally it’s amazing now!

The stronger magnet made it was more useful too.

Now I’m contemplating cutting off the top headband strap rubber (but I can see it being useful if running I guess). I dunno, I’m not a fan of over the top of the head straps…

finges
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Justintoxicated wrote:
Now I’m contemplating cutting off the top headband strap rubber (but I can see it being useful if running I guess). I dunno, I’m not a fan of over the top of the head straps…

Just buy another band with just one strap, they are cheap!

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