Olight S1A Head disassembly

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Anthon
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Olight S1A Head disassembly

Hi Friends

Is there a way to disassemble the S1A head or remove the blue front bezel?

I love my S1A but the tint it’s too cool for me and I’d like to swap the led with a warmer one

Anthon
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I found this tutorial video from a member here

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48826

Polaris
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This disassembly video should be helpful for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAgAf4D05kY

 

Edit: Anthon beat my by a few seconds Wink

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Anthon
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I disassembled it yesterday and found that it has a thin aluminium 15mm PCB so I ordered the new parts,

XM-L2 U3 3D LED 4700-5000k. I want something similar to the MH20 NW (4500-4700k) but I can’t find it, and the T6 4C it’s too warm for me

I also ordered a 16mm noctigon PCB for it, I’ll have to file it down to 15mm but it’s for the best
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Anthon wrote:
I disassembled it yesterday and found that it has a thin aluminium 15mm PCB so I ordered the new parts,

XM-L2 U3 3D LED 4700-5000k. I want something similar to the MH20 NW (4500-4700k) but I can’t find it, and the T6 4C it’s too warm for me

I also ordered a 16mm noctigon PCB for it, I’ll have to file it down to 15mm but it’s for the best
You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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djozz
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X3 wrote:

You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

..which is not a trivial thing to do. I always make a ‘handle’ by soldering a solid copper piece of wire from one solder pad to the other, and start sanding the Noctigon down while holding it by the piece of copper. When done, I remove the wire and reflow the led.
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djozz wrote:
X3 wrote:

You’ll have to sand your Noctigon down to the same thickness as original or it won’t close at all

..which is not a trivial thing to do. I always make a ‘handle’ by soldering a solid copper piece of wire from one solder pad to the other, and start sanding the Noctigon down while holding it by the piece of copper. When done, I remove the wire and reflow the led.

I saw your technique in a thread, really genius Smile
Also, I don’t see the necessity of swapping the stock Al board for a Noctigon…if Olight put this one I think we can keep it.
Although it’s weird, because in the S1 it was aluminum, but not in the s-mini nor the S2…
I’ll open the S1R and S2R soon to swap the emitters (will surely take some pics) and tell BLF if it’s copper or alu

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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Gunga
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So you have opened the s mini?

will34
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X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?

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will34 wrote:
X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?


No glue, it’s pressed and there is a flat gasket between the bezel and the optic to ensure the sealing.
You’ll find the S-mini teardown in my signature BTW

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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Anthon
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will34 wrote:
X3 has even made a tutorial for it! I want to do a swap on my S1R, hopefully it has a Copper board.

BTW X3, did you apply glue on the bezel for resealing and what kind?

You don’t need glue, it’s pressed and it’s hard to put the blue bezel again. I had to get the bezel in the freezer and heat the flashlight about 50ºC to get it into it again

Now the worst part, the 20 days waiting for the new led

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Would like to change out the emitter in my S1 Cu, but afraid of damaging the copper body

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RobertT, I have done several aluminum Olight’s now, but I am also concerned about doing my copper. I would really hate to damage the shell, I think copper is softer and I am not sure how it would affect the light after the bezel was removed and pressed back in. Really want to make it a 5A1!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C