[SALE] High CRI 90+ Nichias (ENDED)

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tuelleric
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clemence wrote:
This time, all those 2700K-5700K 219C will be no less than 3 steps binned

Really looking forward to these. If possible, I’d also like to buy some of the 219B 9080. Could you please put me on the notification list, clemence? Thanks!

fixed it
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clemence wrote:
There will be plenty of 2700K – 5700K 9050 219Cs soon Wink

You’re going to make all of us very poor Wink Are the 9080 coming with the same batch?
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fixed it wrote:
clemence wrote:
There will be plenty of 2700K – 5700K 9050 219Cs soon Wink
You’re going to make all of us very poor Wink Are the 9080 coming with the same batch?

Broke happily I presume….

THE_dAY
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I want some Step 7 if they can hit below the belt, the BlackBody belt.

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THE_dAY wrote:
I want some Step 7 if they can hit below the belt, the BlackBody belt.

Sorry, can’t do that for now. All orders already locked. Besides, I will be likely being stuck with too many “common” unsold Nichias if I do so. You can get tighter selective binned with 757 variants.

clemence
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tuelleric wrote:
clemence wrote:
This time, all those 2700K-5700K 219C will be no less than 3 steps binned

Really looking forward to these. If possible, I’d also like to buy some of the 219B 9080. Could you please put me on the notification list, clemence? Thanks!

I’ll update via this thread. Just don’t forget to subscribe

Cula
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I’ve got a question regarding TIR optics and Nichias… again Smile .
This is my first encounter with Ledil optics so bear with me.

How far should i “push” emitters into the optics (all the way to the MCPCB?)? I’m asking because those legs on the bottom side of the optics have 1.4mm extensions (a bit narrower then the legs) and they prevent the emitter to go inside the optic all the way (when everything is on flat surface). Should I sand them down and let the emitter go in all the way or should I leave it as is. Hope you can understand what I’m asking.
Another question is what do you think about putting a AR coated glass lenses on top of the TIR?

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Cula wrote:
I’ve got a question regarding TIR optics and Nichias… again Smile .
This is my first encounter with Ledil optics so bear with me.

How far should i “push” emitters into the optics (all the way to the MCPCB?)? I’m asking because those legs on the bottom side of the optics have 1.4mm extensions (a bit narrower then the legs) and they prevent the emitter to go inside the optic all the way (when everything is on flat surface). Should I sand them down and let the emitter go in all the way or should I leave it as is. Hope you can understand what I’m asking.
Another question is what do you think about putting a AR coated glass lenses on top of the TIR?

What Ledil type are we talking about?

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Cula wrote:
clemence wrote:
What Ledil type are we talking about?

http://www.ledil.com/node/2/p/5550?ds=1&mn=0&ld=0&md=0&xd=0&mh=0&xh=0&mt...

http://www.ledil.com/node/2/p/131?ds=1&mn=0&ld=0&md=0&xd=0&mh=0&xh=0&mt=...

I never use these optics but, it’s clearly a positioning pins. You don’t sand it down, you just press it to the MCPCB positioning holes.
The measured beam pattern calculated using pre-defined focal point. But you can always play with it, move it up or down if there’s still free play. The 0,8mm slack seems to accommodate the emitter wafer’s thickness with some tolerances between different emitters.
For example: 219C has 0,4 mm wafer thickness plus some “x” mm for silicone coating while XPG has 0,73mm including the silicone coating.

Seems this optics was designed for XPG. You can try to move the optics down to get the best focus or beam pattern. Try to precision drill the optics positioning holes in the MCPCB (waisted) down by 0,3mm if you plan to use 219C

Cula
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Sorry, I got a wrong link. This is the one I’l be using. It is designed for 219A, 219B and 219C.

http://www.ledil.com/node/2/p/5823?ds=1&mn=0&ld=0&md=0&xd=0&mh=0&xh=0&mt...

And here are the actual pictures:


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more or less the same solution. I updated the drawing in my earlier post.

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Cula wrote:
Sorry, I got a wrong link. This is the one I’l be using. It is designed for 219A, 219B and 219C…..

I’m still pretty sure it’s designed to be interchangeable with XPG too, hence the 0,8mm space. Wink

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I’ll be using kaidomain mcpcb’s, 20mm or 16mm, whatever fits better.
So if I got this right, bottom of the optics should “sit” on top of the led and I must do whatever it takes with my build to make this happen.
Thank you for your patience clemence.

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Cula wrote:
I’ll be using kaidomain mcpcb’s, 20mm or 16mm, whatever fits better. So if I got this right, bottom of the optics should “sit” on top of the led and I must do whatever it takes with my build to make this happen. Thank you for your patience clemence.

No problemo. I had the same problem with my Gaggione LLC49R too.

malkoffdevices
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Hi-Whats 9080?.

I’m looking for 4000k 9050, but if this is better 9080 I’ll take them.
Thanks!.

clemence wrote:
tuelleric wrote:
clemence wrote:
This time, all those 2700K-5700K 219C will be no less than 3 steps binned

Really looking forward to these. If possible, I’d also like to buy some of the 219B 9080. Could you please put me on the notification list, clemence? Thanks!

I’ll update via this thread. Just don’t forget to subscribe

London !

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- Ra 9050 means CRI 90 minimum (93 typical), and R9 (deep red) minimum 50 points (typical range vary between cold and warm whites)
- Ra 9080 means CRI 90 minimum (93 typical), and R9 (deep red) minimum 80 points (typical range vary between cold and warm whites)

The ideal LED will of course Ra100 with all R1-R15 have 100 points. So, Ra9080 will always give better colour reproduction than Ra9050. Not all Nichias have this options since production cost will be likely much higher while most demands usually already satisfied with Ra8000-9000.
- 219C only available up to Ra9050. I ordered 3 steps binned 2700K – 5700K (sm273 – sm573) Ra9050
- 219B only available up to 9080 in certain neutral and warm CCTs. I ordered only the 4500K (sw45k) Ra9080. Please note that this 219B has different colour binning system than 219C. For 219B, Nichia uses ANSI BBL (below black body locus) rather than MacAdams colour ellipses (around the center of black body locus) thus the different colour bin format. This results in 219B sw45k has more “rosy” tint compared to 219C.
- E21A and E17A available up to Ra9080 in almost all across their CCT range (2700K – 5700K). But I still need to test the sample specimens, later when I have them.

I hope this clarify things a bit.

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
- ………….

I hope this clarify things a bit.

- Clemence


Thank you ever so much for the best clarification I have encountered for the esoteric binning system(s) Nichia uses.
Many of us were in need of your comprehensive explanation in a nutshell.
tuelleric
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Thanks clemens!

I only wonder that Nichia does not make the 219C as 9050 in 4500K. Do you know the reason why?

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tuelleric wrote:
Thanks clemens!

I only wonder that Nichia does not make the 219C as 9050 in 4500K. Do you know the reason why?

I have no idea too …

steve42
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Hi Clemence; Just started following this thread last week. Learning lots of details about the newer 219 iterations. Hope to participate with a small order (4 emitters) in your next sale. Steve

steve haury

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steve42 wrote:
Hi Clemence; Just started following this thread last week. Learning lots of details about the newer 219 iterations. Hope to participate with a small order (4 emitters) in your next sale. Steve

Thanks Steve Smile

will34
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Great news… I’ve been waiting for a 5,700k 90CRI 219C for too long. I know some of you guys will stone me to death but I really love CW tints Blushing

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will34 wrote:
Great news… I’ve been waiting for a 5,700k 90CRI 219C for too long. I know some of you guys will stone me to death but I really love CW tints Blushing

I had a 90+ CRI XP-G3 in my EDC for a few months, I am ashamed to say that it was not as horrid as I thought it would be. Although I still tended to wash things out and true colors just didn’t seem to come through as well as the warmer ~4500k.

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5700K may be a bit much for me but I can’t wait for high-CRI 5000K. Speaking of, Clemence, do you have full specs on this stuff? Specifically interested in flux bin for any of them.

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will34 wrote:
Great news… I’ve been waiting for a 5,700k 90CRI 219C for too long. I know some of you guys will stone me to death but I really love CW tints Blushing

For workshop and office spaces I always prefer 5700K if possible. Much better awareness and easier to differentiate between colours, especially light coloured objects.
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emarkd wrote:
5700K may be a bit much for me but I can’t wait for high-CRI 5000K. Speaking of, Clemence, do you have full specs on this stuff? Specifically interested in flux bin for any of them.

Yes, later when I have them as usual. Nichia decides the voltage and Flux bin, I’ll receive whatever delivered.
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My test.
Camera Canon 6D, white balance 4000K. Brightness aligned during developing RAW. The same conditions for all pictures.

Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219B R9050 sm40 Jaxman (aliexpress)
click

Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 Kaidomain
click

Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 3step BLF
click

Bonus: Zebralight H600Fw mk2 Cree XM-L2 4400K 75CRI
click
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

The results of the measurements:
Nichia 219B R9050 sm40 Jaxman (aliexpress) – 3600K + strong pink tint.
Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 Kaidomain – 3800K + weak green tint.
Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 3step BLF – 3800K + medium green tint.
Cree XM-L2 4400K 75CRI – 4000K + huge green tint.

THE_dAY
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Badhakker, now that’s a great comparison. All same host to eliminate any tint variation from different set ups.

This is the Jaxman Nichia, correct?
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-CRI-outdoor-lights-lamp-Nichia-219B-series-LED-flashlights-upgrade-order/1812094_32601022783.html

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THE_dAY wrote:

This is the Jaxman Nichia, correct?
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-CRI-outdoor-lights-lamp-Nichia-219B-series-LED-flashlights-upgrade-order/1812094_32601022783.html

Yes.

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