Discussion : - Utorch UT01

204 posts / 0 new
Last post
moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 2305
Location: North Carolina

I gotta say for 10 bucks it’s a very nice 14500 EDC light. Seems well made and looks much better than any of the pics I had seen.
I may replace the driver and UI but just to beat around, it be fine without the swap. I just can’t help myself, it’s screaming mod me.
Over all I’m very pleased with the light, better than I was expecting.

SpAwN
SpAwN's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 38 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2018 - 16:16
Posts: 123
Location: Netherlands

Yes, it is a nice quality for the price, packaging is good, ordered my fourth yesterday because it is easy to gift since it also works with AA and has presentable packaging.

komeko
komeko's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 228
Location: Poland

I approached the subject again and scalped the diode completely. Now it resembles the HP-L HI version. For this I changed the paste and polished the substrate diode because it was not equal. Effect? Wow, it shines noticeably harder. Of course, I made measurements:

Before changes, 114 lux with 5m:

After changes, 156 lux with 5m:

And some photos from the modification:

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 13281
Location: Amsterdam

^ looks good! Thumbs Up

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

d_t_a
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 49 min ago
Joined: 08/04/2017 - 23:58
Posts: 818
Location: Manila, Philippines

Does anyone encounter this issue:

UTorch UT01 occasionally (or fairly regularly) will not turn OFF (have to unscrew the tail cap in this case):

Maybe it’s an electronic switch problem? How to fix it?

FlashMax
FlashMax's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 day ago
Joined: 04/24/2017 - 15:09
Posts: 227
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Hi dear, where did you get it for ten bucks?

thanks

Max

Klotski
Klotski's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 min 39 sec ago
Joined: 08/20/2017 - 23:03
Posts: 144
Location: USA Minnesota
FlashMax
FlashMax's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 day ago
Joined: 04/24/2017 - 15:09
Posts: 227
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Thanks a lot

Max

nquinn
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 09/11/2017 - 21:55
Posts: 217
Location: DC

Anyone know the maximum amps a utorch ut01 will draw with a 14500?

Deciding if I should go with a Sanyo UR14500P (better at ~ 1A or below) or an Efest 14500 (better at say 2A-5A but less capacity)

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 2305
Location: North Carolina

nquinn wrote:
Anyone know the maximum amps a utorch ut01 will draw with a 14500?

Deciding if I should go with a Sanyo UR14500P (better at ~ 1A or below) or an Efest 14500 (better at say 2A-5A but less capacity)


http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51365
About 2 amps. I have used the Sanyo several times in the ut01 and they work fine. I have used the efest to, I don’t see any noticeable difference between them in the ut01. If you need more current than 2 amps in another 14500 light go for the efest to use in both.
MortonFizzback
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/31/2018 - 05:12
Posts: 11
Location: France

Is there still a way to get it for 10$?
Thanks,

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 2305
Location: North Carolina

MortonFizzback wrote:
Is there still a way to get it for 10$?
Thanks,

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52547?page=94
Right now its going for a little more, if you’ll keep watching Fin17 thread I’m pretty sure it will pop up again with the special price. You could PM him which you will have to do anyway when the deal comes up again. The code is not public.
MortonFizzback
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/31/2018 - 05:12
Posts: 11
Location: France

Thanks I’ll do that!

T18
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 02/14/2016 - 15:29
Posts: 1031

The switch on the board gets a bit of center so the boots rubber nub doesn’t get good contact to the switch on the board, actually the rubber nub on the boot is really to soft and bends to much, so you have to take the retainer and boot off and get the switch centered and then it will work great, I did a picture write up during a group buy for the UT01 & 02, it was a buy put together by George, I think I’ve spelled his name wrong but it’s close,

Edit: By the way to take that retainer off if you don’t know, I take a small screw driver and carefully pull back from the sides of the boot to pull the boot edges out from under the retainer and then with the boot out I can take a bit bigger screw driver and gently pry up around the retainer to remove it being careful not to bend it, it’s soft alum, the retainer is just pressed in.
Then take your small screw driver and put it on the side of the switch box, it’s normally off center to the left of what would be centered but anyhow then gently just pry it over until it’s centered then put the boot on and then press in the retainer and your good to go.
I’ve had very few that I’ve had to do that more than once, great little lights or they were anyhow.

komeko
komeko's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 228
Location: Poland

However, I could not withstand this yellow color and today I replaced the diode on XP-L HI U6-3A. The end result is pure white in NW 5393K and a bit more focused beam. I did the same with Lumintop SDMini, which only occurs in CW 6500K. It bothered me too and the same diode was also in it.

before:

after:

before:

after:

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

pavol77
pavol77's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/22/2018 - 16:07
Posts: 42
Location: Slovakia - Bratislava

Good day
my Utorch UT 01 NW worked perfectly for 7 days.
Then the problem is not possible to switch on with the button.
if I want to turn it on, I have to let go and tighten the battery cover.
does anyone have similar problems?

 

pavol77

d_t_a
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 49 min ago
Joined: 08/04/2017 - 23:58
Posts: 818
Location: Manila, Philippines
pavol77 wrote:

Good day
my Utorch UT 01 NW worked perfectly for 7 days.
Then the problem is not possible to switch on with the button.
if I want to turn it on, I have to let go and tighten the battery cover.
does anyone have similar problems?


 

Yes, I have that kind of problem with my UTorch UT01. Occurs relatively frequently (lately more often than not).

Sometimes, not possible to switch off, then after unscrewing, may not be possible to switch on. But wait some time, and it mysteriously works again. Thus far, it hasn’t gone totally unusable (I don’t EDC this “intermittently-working” flashlight, it’s now relegated to testing purposes only)

pavol77
pavol77's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/22/2018 - 16:07
Posts: 42
Location: Slovakia - Bratislava

Okay, thank you for the answer. - I will wait.
Utorch is good - power and light color NW, I use ENELOP 2450 and SOSHINE 900 mAh 3.7V batteries, this battery probably wants batteries at higher current consumption probably buy efest.
the bug has one advantage - the flashlight does not turn itself in the legs ...

 

pavol77

pavol77
pavol77's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 01/22/2018 - 16:07
Posts: 42
Location: Slovakia - Bratislava

Utorch ut 01 is a good torch at a good price - thanks to the BLF Forum.
I have the same problems.
yesterday she woke up and works well with ENELOP.
my conclusion: I need a good battery - tried someone Efest 700 mah ???
Thank you for your response

 

pavol77

beam0
beam0's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2011 - 23:18
Posts: 3195
Location: Pennsylvania

beam0 wrote:
komeko wrote:
The switch was also sucked, I ordered a new one for replacement, but … I did something else in between. I added a piece of plastic between the switch and the eraser and now works beautifully every time. The size of the cartridge is about 1.5mm.
Now I like the flashlight. Of course, the gearbest returned the money for a defective product.
I didn’t notice it at first but now I’m having the same problem with the switch as you. So I’m thinking to try as you did to insert the plastic in the switch boot, was that hard to do? What did you use for the plastic, a flat disc? And how thick?

Also when you said the cartridge is about 1.5mm what are you referring to as the “cartridge”?

I just did the switch mod and it made a big difference, it’s working great now!

I used a 1.15mm thickness plastic I shaped into a disc. 1.5mm was too thick for mine. Could probably even go a little thinner, it’s almost too sensitive.
Thanks komeko!! Thumbs UpThumbs Up

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

komeko
komeko's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 228
Location: Poland

Simple and effective Smile

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

sovereignknight
sovereignknight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 01/18/2016 - 23:44
Posts: 485
Location: Northern California
pavol77 wrote:

Good day
my Utorch UT 01 NW worked perfectly for 7 days.
Then the problem is not possible to switch on with the button.
if I want to turn it on, I have to let go and tighten the battery cover.
does anyone have similar problems?


 

I’ve had this exact problem with the Lumintop EDC05.

Had to send it back.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x6 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 2305
Location: North Carolina

I think some of these problems is just a design flaw, that could have been easily solved. If you look at the switch location.

.
Now look where the rubber plunger protrudes into the switch, see that channel right below the plunger, in the far left of the pic, that’s cut into the shelf that holds the led board. It looks like it was drilled there to add clearance for the plunger.

.
The plunger is slightly in the shelf for the led, The switch sets away from the shelf a little (probably for variance clearance) and the switch actuator isn’t set at the end of the switch but the middle, so the switch actuator is about half way miss aligned with the plunger. I noticed this when I made my own BLF A6 driver work in this light as I was taking measurements for my switch location. The factory switch doesn’t set right up agaisn’t the shelf like the plunger does. All the factory had to do was drill the switch boot hole 1 mm towards the driver and It should have lined up perfectly. Facepalm

arficus
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 20 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2013 - 06:10
Posts: 170
Location: PNW

>> All the factory had to do was drill the switch boot hole 1 mm towards the driver and It should have lined up perfectly.

So could we just enlarge the hole a bit?

beam0
beam0's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2011 - 23:18
Posts: 3195
Location: Pennsylvania

arficus wrote:
>> All the factory had to do was drill the switch boot hole 1 mm towards the driver and It should have lined up perfectly.

So could we just enlarge the hole a bit?

No I don’t think so, I think if you did that the switch boot/bezel may no longer fit.
If it did fit there would be a open gap around part of the switch.

The switch on mine is not perfectly centered in the hole but that didn’t matter after doing komeko’s mod of a plastic disc inserted between the boot plunger and switch. Not only did it take up the gap between the plunger and switch (which was too long) I believe it also corrects the mis-alignment of the switch with the hole.

I think what corrects the mis-alignment with this mod is than I made the circumference of the plastic disc nearly as big as the hole in the body, (much wider/larger than the white button/acutator on the switch)

The plastic disc acts as a “contact plate” that in effect enlarges the surface of the internal switch button/acutator to correct the mis-alignment offset in the hole. You could even glue the plastic disc on to the end of the switch.

The thickness of the plastic I used was 1.15mm, the switch is super sensitive now, I might try a bit thinner plastic (.75mm – 1mm) But the thickness may vary between lights as komeko used a 1.5mm and that would have been way too thick for my light.

I used plastic cut from one of those bread bag closures from a sack of Bagels!

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 19 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 2305
Location: North Carolina

The only way I see to fix it, besides the disc fix would be to disassemble the light and unsolder the switch or lift up as you heat the soldering to try and get a little more of extra height. The switch would need a small gap under it. This will still not be perfectly lined up but close. Also moving the switch towards the outside ring takes the play out of the plunger, much better response, but if you move it to close the plunger becomes to responsive as it probably will have some pressure already pushing on the switch.

kramer5150
kramer5150's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/19/2010 - 13:43
Posts: 2109
Location: Palo Alto CA

Interesting… I have dozens of plastic bread tabs. So its the rubber “eraser” thing that shifts off kilter relative to the switch… correct?

Curious, do you have to do a complete tear down for this mod? Is it possible to remove the rubber boot-eraser, and glue the bread-tab shim piece from the outside of the light?

How do you remove the rubber switch boot?

thanks!!

beam0
beam0's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2011 - 23:18
Posts: 3195
Location: Pennsylvania

kramer5150 wrote:
Interesting… I have dozens of plastic bread tabs.
Now you know why you’ve been saving them… LOL Big Smile

.

kramer5150 wrote:
So its the rubber “eraser” thing that shifts off kilter relative to the switch… correct?
Yes, the “eraser” or “nub” attached to the back of the rubber switch boot, it’s not hitting directly center on the internal switch because the switch is off center. On mine there also was too much gap between that nub and the switch I was having to press really hard to even work the switch.

.

kramer5150 wrote:
Curious, do you have to do a complete tear down for this mod? Is it possible to remove the rubber boot-eraser, and glue the bread-tab shim piece from the outside of the light?

How do you remove the rubber switch boot?

thanks!!


No tear down at all, you don’t even have to open the light. All done from the outside of the light. The rubber boot can be pried out easily with a small screwdriver, I sort of “pulled” from the edge with the screwdriver tip, being VERY careful not to poke a hole through it.

You probably could also use small plier or tweezer and just pull it out, but I wasn’t comfortable with doing that because it seemed a higher possibility to poke through the rubber. But I could be wrong the rubber may be tougher than I think it is.

Maybe better if you have one of those plastic tools for working on cell phones, I have those somewhere but I couldn’t find them so I used a small metal flat blade screwdriver.

No need to glue the disc, I didn’t glue mine and komeko said nothing about gluing, but it was an idea I had. It would be best to try first without gluing to get the correct thickness of the plastic, if it’s too thick it will be too sensitive. When you get it to your liking you could glue it, but I don’t see it being necessary at this point.

It’s best if you have a caliper or micrometer to measure the thickness of the plastic so you can try different thicknesses to get it right. Those bread tabs come in different thicknesses, the one I have in it now was the thicker type, I may try one a bit thinner at some point because it’s quite sensitive now.

Make the disc a little smaller than the opening, then just lay the disc in the opening (over top of the internal switch button) then tuck the rubber boot back in under the rim.

For me it worked great, works every click – every time, no problem. Completely fixed it, went from “un-usable hate it” to “use it every day – luv it” Love

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

beam0
beam0's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/20/2011 - 23:18
Posts: 3195
Location: Pennsylvania

You could also try this without disassembly (post by T18 #165 above): http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1287153#comment-1287153

I tried it but the switch wouldn’t move over, I didn’t want to put too much pressure on it for fear of breaking loose the switch or components inside, so I did the disc mod.

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

arow55
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 28 min ago
Joined: 04/24/2015 - 00:02
Posts: 210

Just got my fourth.
Put in wire in tailcap and running great. Had good luck.

Pages