New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

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clemence
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Yeah same here. Ordered just out of curiousity hahaha.
Individually addressable VR16SP4 with 2000K – 4000K – 5000K – 6500K will cover most needs.

Have you tried the proto boards yet Jos?

- Clemence

djozz
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No, I have not tried them, I’m still waiting for the 2000K E21A’s and will do some builds on your boards.

Also, I will be testing the Cree XD16 on your board, but they are not for sale at Mouser or RS-online yet.

So, soon they will be used! Smile

steel_1024
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WoW

6500K R9080!

Cash

Sorry for my poor english.

ma tumba
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djozz wrote:
Interesting, what does 6500K do with almost 100 CRI?? Not directly my COT but I doubt that I can resist some Smile

I think that ma tumba has completed his quad with these!

While I was considering various options I came across the dr Jones rgbw driver which seems to be nearly perfect fit. I wonder if they are still available? Dr Jones has not been active here for quite a while.

AEDe
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I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.

alberto7
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Really nice work Clemence! Congrats!

clemence
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AEDe wrote:
I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.

Sorry about that AEDe, can’t do nothing about it.
I described it earlier when the final product arrived (with pictures too). Of course the prototype finishes were much better since those were made using CNC router ONE by ONE. To cut down cost the final product incorporate V-score for easier/cheaper machining and faster cutting rate (hence the flared outer edges). And FYI, those prototypes actual cost was USD 38,5/pc, and I ordered 60pcs.
I guess for flashlight modding hobby, deburring and lapping the MCPCB can be considered as a routine. I do small batches of streetlights using those boards and still do the lapping too (for the MCPCBs, not me). Those flares can be fix fairly easily using #1000 sandpaper on flat surface.

- Clemence

ma tumba
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Clemence, have you ever considered making an adapter for mounting e21s on standard 3535 boards? I mean a 3535 sized very thin two sided board with 2 contact plates on one side (just like one on your quad boards) and 3 standard contacts on the other side?

These would be useful for standard triple/quad light engines

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
Clemence, have you ever considered making an adapter for mounting e21s on standard 3535 boards? I mean a 3535 sized very thin two sided board with 2 contact plates on one side (just like one on your quad boards) and 3 standard contacts on the other side?

These would be useful for standard triple/quad light engines

That would be very inefficient in terms of performance, cost, and form factor. Easier to just cram three boards closer. The next plan would be triple board.

- Clemence

AEDe
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clemence wrote:
AEDe wrote:
I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.

Sorry about that AEDe, can’t do nothing about it.
I described it earlier when the final product arrived (with pictures too)


Sorry I missed that) Actually it is not problem at all. Prototype have wow quality…Now it is clear 38.5)
maukka
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I’ve got a lot of CRI measurements from the E21As Clemence sent me here for those interested:

https://imgur.com/a/xP55G

The results are very good. Super neutral on small currents, rosier on higher. CCT isn’t really affected.

clemence
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AEDe wrote:
clemence wrote:
AEDe wrote:
I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.

Sorry about that AEDe, can’t do nothing about it.
I described it earlier when the final product arrived (with pictures too)


Sorry I missed that) Actually it is not problem at all. Prototype have wow quality…Now it is clear 38.5)

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1261777#comment-1261777

steel_1024
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ArmyTek Wizard Pro XM-L2

Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 & 5000K R9080

Next mod on the right……

Sorry for my poor english.

clemence
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Nice job Steel,

With newer Wizard the removal is much harder since AT now use two O-rings on top and below the glass
Here’s mine: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1273587#comment-1273587

Beam shots please

- Clemence

clemence
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Btw, make sure you clean the flux residue. At higher current the residue will thin and wet the LEDs sides. When things gets hotter, it will cause phosphor burns.
Boiling IPA and nylon brush is all it takes

- Clemence

steel_1024
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What is IPA?

Sorry for my poor english.

clemence
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steel_1024 wrote:
What is IPA?

Isopropyl Alcohol. Usually available at the drug counter in 70% – 95%. Higher concentration doesn’t seems to work any better. IPA needs water to dissolve fats such as solder grease/flux residue. I bought 95% just to save money. I added 50% filtered distilled water taken from my air conditioner condensation (It’s very humid here at 88-90%, I usually got ~20 liter distilled water per day).

- Clemence

Pöbel
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Nice, I’m planning the same on my wizard, but with a pretty wild combo of emitters Big Smile
2× 3000k + 5000k + 6500k. I’m curious how the resulting tint will look. Should be around 4500k I guess.

clemence
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Pöbel wrote:
Nice, I’m planning the same on my wizard, but with a pretty wild combo of emitters Big Smile 2× 3000k + 5000k + 6500k. I’m curious how the resulting tint will look. Should be around 4500k I guess.

Based on Maukka’s test. The 6500K is closer to 7000K. So you can use this info for your next mix.

- Clemence

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The result might lean closer to 5000k then, especially since the cooler emitters are a bit more efficient.

clemence
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New VR16SP4 (alpha board) thermal test result from Jensen567:

At the same 5A the new board is 26C cooler. Peaked in ~6A (the resolution used was 500mA). Using my previous lux-current test result, the peak should be ~6,4A (3,1A/LED). As you can see from the phosphor temp result, the BLF max rating is 4,8-5 A in 2s2p config (2,4A/LED).

Thanks to Jensen567!

- Clemence

Thewrights11
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So if I ordered a VR16SP4 WITH 4 E21 SM403’‘ and put them in a Convoy S2+ or S3 with a MTN 17DDm would I want to MCPCB set up as 3V, 6V, 9V, or 12V? I’m really curious to see how these would perform in a Convoy S2+ or S3 host with a high drain 18650.

clemence
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Thewrights11 wrote:
So if I ordered a VR16SP4 WITH 4 E21 SM403’‘ and put them in a Convoy S2+ or S3 with a MTN 17DDm would I want to MCPCB set up as 3V, 6V, 9V, or 12V? I’m really curious to see how these would perform in a Convoy S2+ or S3 host with a high drain 18650.

I supposed the new 3, 6, 12V order received is yours. Only heavy OP reflector and pebbled/frosted/faceted TIR optics will work with the new quadtrix board. The extra gap made for maximum performance creates donut with SMO/plain tight TIR optics.

- Clemence

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No wasn’t me, I don’t want to order until I figure out how I should set the LED’s up. Would it be possible to run these on a 8× 7135 driver at 3 volts or 6 volts?

clemence
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Thewrights11 wrote:
No wasn’t me, I don’t want to order until I figure out how I should set the LED’s up. Would it be possible to run these on a 8× 7135 driver at 3 volts or 6 volts?

I can’t comment on this since I never use/try any 7135 based drivers. As long as the drivers of your choice designed for 3/6/9/12V LED config it’s good to go. The max safe current limit (BLF max) for each configurations (using 4 x E21A) are: 10A(5,6A) for 3V, 5A(2,8A) for 6V, and 2,5A(1,4A) for both 9V / 12V. Lower values in brackets are OEM L70 50.000 hours absolute max.

- Clemence

g_damian
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I can confirm quad E21A works very well with 7135*8 driver: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1287692#comment-1287692

However FET fot that configuration is not the best choice. I tried quad E21A with Lexel’s bistro-hd driver and it ended very fast, I saw 16A on clamp meter, then one of E21A died… Sad

ma tumba
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It itches me to find a pair of jumpers to connect the pairs of minus soldering pads of a quad board. With the jumpers closed all 4 LEDs are powered with jumpers open – just 2 LEDs. In my new 2× 5000K + 2× 6500K config it’d give me an easy access to 6500K, 6200K, and 5700K output. Just screw out the bezel, pop in/out the jumper(s) and put the bezel back.

Someting like “these”:“http://www.mac8japan.com/parts/smt/wrap/hwc2pg.html or “ these”:http://www.mac8japan.com/parts/smt/jumper/hhp.html, but with a lower profile .

DIP switches would be much better but I don’t think there exists one that small for 1+amp
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I noticed today the VR16S1 I’ve been testing for a few weeks is ever so slightly too large for the cutout in my Wizard Pro, which meant it hadn’t been making any contact with the body of the light. To get it to contact the surface I had to file a tiny bit off all the edges of the MCPCB and carefully deburr everything. It’s now seated properly and making good contact. Performance isn’t a whole lot different, at least on 18350, which I assume is because the 6V emitter is very underdriven. I will have to make similar adjustments to the VR16SP4.

Bob_McBob
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Posting this just to prove it actually worked before I put it out of its misery Big Smile

This was mostly just very rough job to see how easy the VR16SP4 is to modify for the Wizard. Definitely not something you want to do with a populated board you care about, since the phosphor coating is just as fragile as reported. Now of course I need to order more boards…

clemence
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Bob_McBob wrote:
Posting this just to prove it actually worked before I put it out of its misery Big Smile

This was mostly just very rough job to see how easy the VR16SP4 is to modify for the Wizard. Definitely not something you want to do with a populated board you care about, since the phosphor coating is just as fragile as reported. Now of course I need to order more boards…

You can rework it, just change the damaged LED only. With careful handling reflow soldering E21A is relatively easy, it takes more time though. Avoid using lead free solder whenever possible.

- Clemence

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