Best lube for the itp A3 eos (aluminum version)

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fran82
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Best lube for the itp A3 eos (aluminum version)

Need to know what is the best product and the best way to lube the threads of the a3 eos upgraded in Aluminium body.

 

Thanks

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Don
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The only thing I use is generic clear silicone grease. It is cheap and available in lots of places. A 50g tube has met all my needs for more than ten years. I don't think the brands here will be the same as in Spain. If you want to spend a little more the spray grease designed for switches and contacts will do the same job.

 

So will Vaseline. Some claim it will eat the O rings, which would be true if they were made of natural rubber but they haven't been in many, many years.

 

I prefer a heavy grease to a light oil as it is easier to get just the right amount on the threads. And it doesn't end up on all your clothes.

 

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

fran82
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Thanks Don

 

In spanish, the translation of Silicone Grease is the white silicone we apply in the heatsinks of the electronics components, like in the PC processors, or in the power transistors in electronics products....

 

So silicone grease I beleive that is a different  product that I know about...

 

Vaseline, does not work for me. I tested in most flashlights the typical semi-transparent vaseline purchased in the supermarkets, or pharmacies.... It doesnt work for me. Probably you are talking about another type of vaseline...

 

I use machine oil, the one used in the sewing machines. Is semi-transparent and very fluid. That oil is what I use in the TF F23, and the o-rings are as new, however It has 2 problems:

 

1) Does not lube correctly

2) The oil keeps in your hands and in your clothes, despite the amount you apply.

 

So I have that problem. Can find a proper lube in spain, we are talking about different products............

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Don
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Yes, the white stuff contains aluminium oxide and zinc oxide which are very abrasive. Heatsink grease as I'd call the white stuff is a very bad idea. I does make a good grinding or polishing compound though.

 

Any grease used on cars will work. I apply it then wipe nearly all of it off with a tissue.

 

Any electrical supplier should be able to give you switch grease which will do the job.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

FlexakaMal
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Hydroseal tap and o-ring lubricant from the plumbing section of my local hardware store. Seems to do the job.

fran82
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OK thanks to all.

 

I prefer things that are easy to get.

 

¿can I use lithium grease? like the one used to lube garage doors, car chasis, suspension, etc...???

(in a small quantity, of course)

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Don
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Ordinarly lithium grease will be fine.

A small can of lithium grease should last almost forever. Just don't get the stuff with molybdenum disulphide in it - it is black and nasty to clean up.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

rzezniq
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I use sawing machine/precision machine oil (very cheap and works fine) and technical vaseline (still cheap) from electronic parts shop. Vaseline is better, because it's thicker and stays on threads and gives better slip.

Nautic
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rzezniq wrote:

I use sawing machine/precision machine oil (very cheap and works fine) and technical vaseline (still cheap) from electronic parts shop. Vaseline is better, because it's thicker and stays on threads and gives better slip.

 

I use Vaseline for the same reason as rzezniq.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

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Clear silicone grease for O-rings  is often used for scuba diving maintenance and can be bought over Ebay.

For example HERE .

brted
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I have this stuff called "Super Lube" (http://www.super-lube.com) that I got at a hardware store in the US. It says it is a "synthetic grease" and contains PTFE (teflon). It is in a squeeze tube and looks similar to vaseline.

fran82
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interesting...............

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how2
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I use vaseline, tried silicone grease but found this too thick, was not that smooth.

fran82
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Don
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fran82 wrote:

This will work?

 

http://cgi.ebay.es/INTOVA-SILICONE-GREASE-FOR-CAMERA-O-RINGS-LUBRICATION...

 

It will be fine but is awfully expensive for 5g of generic clear silicone grease.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

fran82
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And any site to get it cheap????

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Don
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I can probably get 50g of the stuff for the same money - I'd be happy to post it to you. I will get back to you with prices.

 

Personally I'd just use lithium grease which should cost a lot less and is available at every car place.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

fran82
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I have that lithium grease. I will test in an old flashlight and see the results!

 

However I will continue waiting a good price on clear silicone grease

 

Thanks Don

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Don
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http://www.tait-components.com/Cleaners-and-Solvents/Greases-and-Lubrica...

 

I have an account with them and am about to order some networking gear. I will need some grease for the job so the customer will be paying for it. I have about half a tube that I am happy to send to you for the cost of the postage since I'm getting the replacement basically for nothing. There is about 25g in the tube which ought to be enough for about ten years. Just PM me your address and I will post it tomorrow. Since I am also in the EU the postage won't be more than 3 euros I'd guess.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

fran82
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Hi Don, thanks.

For the moment I inform that I have tested my lithium grease (yellow colored one) and it works!!! Is not like the liquid substance used in the A3 eos but does the job.

I tested a an old flashlight, and screwed and unscrewed it about 50 times and goes very well. I dont know how will react the silicone or rubber orings.

I will take your offer if the lithium grease destroys the orings. But for the moment, appears good

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agenthex
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The cleanest stuff I've found for metals is mineral oil. I use it for tools/blades/etc. It's also everywhere and practically free. AKA Baby oil (which has a tiny bit of fragrance added).  Food safe just in case you like to lick your lights.  LOL.

 

I think that's also what's in the little bottle of oil which is included with my Philips shaver. The tiny bottle, which is great as an applicator has lasted forever on flashlights.

 

I've also tried fairly pure silicone oil. That stuff works well on plastics, but I find can stick slightly with metals. No idea why.

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agenthex
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Well I went to research this a bit. It turns out mineral oil is petroleum based, similar to the vaseline/jelly Don describes above. I think the oil is preferable since it penetrates better (get all the gunk out of those light the first time you use it), and ends up looking very clean. I'm not sure why Don says they'll attack natural rubber; wouldn't they attack any petroleum rubber rings since they're essential a petroleum solvent in order to be liquid? Sorry I'm not knowledgble in chemistry.

 

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midieval10
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WD-40 FTW!

Don't you agree Don? Wink

Don
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Most petroleum based substances in liquid form will harden and eventually destroy natural rubber. The higher the temperature, the faster this will happen.

 

Since natural rubber is expensive it hasn't been used to make O rings in years. The stuff used for O rings these days is invariably synthetic and is much less likely to be attacked by lubricants - it is normally a butadiene-styrene copolymer or some sort of carefully controlled molecular weight silicone polymer. This will not be damaged by any lubricant that I know of.

 

If a light needs cleaning of factory lubricant and general mess, WD40 works well to dissolve and shift it. However, WD40 is not really a lubricant so it needs to be wiped off. I prefer to use heavier lubricants as they don't end up on my clothes as oils tend to. Others may have better technique than I do...

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

midieval10
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I was kidding about the WD-40 (just making fun of your sig).

I use hobby R/C lubricant for my lights and it works great. The stuff is lightweight though so I have to wipe most of it off.

Don
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agenthex wrote:

I think that's also what's in the little bottle of oil which is included with my Philips shaver. The tiny bottle, which is great as an applicator has lasted forever on flashlights.

 

Now that's a good idea - DX have several bottles that look useful for such jobs

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5030

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5068

 

I think I'll put some of those in my next DX order and try an oil rather than a grease for lubrication.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

midieval10
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I use Triflow: http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Pin_Point_Lubricant.html

The needle point applicator is nice. Those bottles from DX look very useful.

agenthex
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However, WD40 is not really a lubricant so it needs to be wiped off.

Hmm.. I'm not sure. Wiki entry for WD40 interpretes its MSD sheet and it seems to include just mineral oil as longer lasting ingredient /lubricant.

 

The solvents involved seem a bit nasty, though. The EU sheet seems to conflict slightly on what the volatile parts are, but I'm out of depth there.

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Don
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Most safety sheets are scarier than the substances concerned. The light aliphatic hydrocarbons (butane, pentane, hexane, heptane, octane, etc.) have essentially no chemistry, they react with oxygen when provoked (i.e., they burn when you light them) and that is about it.

 

The light stuff is being used as a solvent for some heavy petroleum goo which has been hydrogenated probably to make it less chemically reactive - this will also make it less toxic as it should get rid of most aromatic (ring-shaped, like benzene which is very nasty stuff) substances in it. However, it is designed to coat, not to lubricate, it tends to wash out other lubricants. I use it as a solvent rather than a lubricant and wipe it off afterwards. This may leave a small amount of heavier oil around but I try to get rid of all of it by cleaning thoroughly. It does tend to get everywhere though. This is what it is designed to do.

 

The smell when it burns is quite distinctive and doesn't smell like any hydrocarbon I'm aware of. However I am not current in chemistry, it is 28 years since I graduated and I don't work in the field any more.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

agenthex
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For o-ring chemistries, I found this:

 

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

http://www.elderrubber.com/material.htm

 

What I can gather is that silicone oil is not good on silicone ring, and petroleum is not good with others like EPDM. Prolly all because of the solvent issue. Nitrile seems resistent to everything. So basically, we're screwed unless the chinese manufacturers let us know what they use. Surprised

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fishinfool
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Here's a thread that I read a while back that helped with my lube questions.  Most people here already know about it and maybe you already read it but here it is anyway.

 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=242414

I myself use Nyogel.

http://www.cpfreviews.com/Flashlight-Care-Nyogel-Lubricants.php

 

 

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

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