I bought a faulty Shadow JM35 off ebay, thinking it may be an easy fix. I should have googled first.
There is a fault on the driver, it take 350mA with no output. I’ve removed and tested the LED, which appears fine. Next job is to get to the driver. As you can see its already been in the vice, but no luck.
Before I show it the big hammer, any ideas?
The other disappointing thing is it doesn’t fit my LiitoKala 26650.
The round bottom end is screwed inside the head but also glued hard. If you apply generous amount of heat, you might be able to unscrew it but not without ruining the aluminum.
There are only (I think) two topics about unscrewing JM35. One of them is mine (in my signature) and second one was posted by M4D M4X.
Just tried the vice, lever and hammer. Now I’m bleeding. I’ll try some heat and gloves when I get home from work.
I may just destroy the driver and install another on the inner lip.
I still doesn’t understand how you can get that copper looking so shiny! 
Had a go at removing the driver, lots of heat, cut flats to hold it in the vice better, a pry bar and hammer. It took a lot of effort. Unfortunately I think I over tightened the vice. I wish I’d just smashed the old driver out now 
Most of the components desoldered, so driver is past help.
Wow. I think my hopes of opening up this light have been shattered. :person_facepalming:
Stupid glue… :rage:
I’ve just found my Ulrtafire C2 lens ring has the same thread as the JM35 head, so still some modding possibilities, but I like my C2 as it is.
My recommendation is to smash out the old driver if it needs replacing and fit one on the lip between body and pill.
Yes, I may try this.
As the driver is quite large why not get it out without unscrewing the head and replace it with a 17 or 15mm driver
If you remove the LED and orings you can heat the head over 200 dCelsius that glue will melt and unscrew easily
How hot can you get a light before it affects the finish?
Not sure, somewhere above the melting point of lead, but below the melting point of lead-free solder. Your question indicates you understand the key to the problem. It appears the OP heated the driver above the melting point of lead-free solder, but the host was still relatively cool. The host should have not been heated. The host should have been heated. If it had been heated as hot as the driver had been, it would have been discolored.
Here, Red Lockite'd threads are freed. Read needs about 400F to melt. The host was heated to below 400 to soften the Lockite and then horse power to finished the job. Finish and driver remained unharmed. It's a dance and I was lucky in the below case.
Memo to manufacturers: glue is stupid. It shows us you have something to hide.
Have you ruined a finish before? What happens when it gets too hot?
I’ve opened up 4-5 skilhunt h03 heads with heat, pliers and an old leather belt. I’ve not ruined any finish yet though I ruined two olight s30s while trying to open them. Those were my first attempts at opening a light and I ground into the finish with the teeth from the pliers. I sold one of them cheap but I’m thinking about striping the ano on those and going with naked s30’s
