For sale we have my McGizmo Haiku, which I just very recently received.
Reason for selling? I bought 2 and this one I don’t see me using as much as my other one.
Why? This has the XM-L2 Cool White, the other one is the XP-G2 Neutral White, and I’ve become a bit of a tint snob.
Specs, as given to me by Don himself;
XM-L2 Cool White emitter
McClicky switch
HIVE driver - so has 4 modes - Low (2.8 lumens), Mid (37 lumens), High (133 lumens) and Turbo (318 lumens)
With the HIVE driver, you can use a non-rechargeable CR123 battery but it will drop down from Turbo to High as can’t provide the correct voltage.
To get the best from the HIVE driver, you need to use a 3.7v 16340/RCR123 battery - I’ll chuck in a Fenix 3,7v 16340 battery rated at 700mAh to sweeten the deal.
This is as new, as I got it from Don. Have carried it a few times, and used it outside once only.
Price includes postage using RMSD, and payment via bank transfer. If you would wish to pay via PayPal, please add 3%.
Selling only to a member from the UK - not willing to post internationally.
Due to work restraints, I may only be able to post on the Fri following the sale - but will try to post out as early as I can.
£375
(also advertised elsewhere)
If you want any more pictures, please let me know.
If you are seriously interested, please send me a message, I will be notified better than you posting in this thread.
Thank you.
Since you’ve already got it, you could always mod one into something more like what you want. The Tana mods seem to have a great reputation. Better tint/emitter options, more output, more programmability, etc…
I don’t have first-hand experience so I’m just throwing out thoughts here, but instead of taking a loss on a brand new light, it may be worth considering.
UK only?
O wait, it’s also very expensive…
VERY expensive…
It’s nice looking though.
But why not do an emitter swap?
Get a Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI from Kaidomain on 16 or 20mm copper DTP star and then you’ll want to sell the other one with the XP-G2
Or do both and have very nice tints with actual red in them, twice.
emarkd: I did think of that, I may still do that if this doesn’t sell, but at the moment I am happy enough. I already ordered a Sinner Custom with triple Nichia 219C emitters.
Jerommel: It is an expensive light, I’m selling cheaper than what it cost me.
If someone in EU is wanting it, I would be willing to ship, at cost of course.
…but why go with cheap looking Cree tints in this kind of exquisite lights?
Or why not search for really high CRI emitters? (like 98 CRI)
Sure, high CRI LEDs will do less lumens, but not that much less.
Unfortunately $2000 lights also have cheap CREE tints too…………
The xpl HI imo is very nice, hi cri………yes have many 219b’s 4000/4500k . Shining a 219b and an xpl HI 4000k, colours are nice with both to my eyes. Having had an xpl HI 4000k in a gizmo, i can tell you it works very nicely for a nice hot spot and perfect uniformed beam(what one would generally think as such).
Still the xp-g2 is one of the best choices for this reflector, not just as simply as any led unfortunately. Thats why don only uses specific ones which are tried/tested and make for the perfect beam(to him and many).
What LED’s that will work off this voltage and fit in this reflector are over 92/93 CRI? Not a trick question as i dont know, not seen many over that. I like my 5000k 219C as much as my 219B’s……………maybe even prefer in some lights, yet less CRI. CRI to me on its own is just a cog , more to it and personally seeing colours exaggerated does not do anything for me. Realistic accurate rendition is what i like, not popping reds yet beige whites due to the too warm temp.
Here is a mix of 4 leds,
xpl HD 4000k
xpl HI 4000k
Nichia 219B 5000k
Nichia 219B 5000k
For me i see realistic colours, reds look accurate and white still looks white(of course many variables from camera/monitors and eyes!)
Orsam Oslon generation 2 and 3 probably, or more specialized (more expensive) brands. I guess Nichia has higher CRI bins too.
Members Clemence and Djozz probably know.
That’s what CRI means. Color rendering index.
This can be either cool, neutral or warm color temperature.
As you may know, (deep) red is a problem, even for most high CRI LEDs.
This is because for example Cree is actually a blue LED with phosphor which mainly produces yellow.
Blue and yellow combined look like white, but there is a lack of red and cyan blue.
Nichia does a better job. Maybe because Nichia is actually a purple LED with phosphor.
Just compare a Nichia 219C 4000K with a Cree 5A2 and shine it on the skin of your hand.
Big difference. The Cree hand looks yellow with a hint of green compared to the realistic appearance of the Nichia hand.
Mind you, the Cree A and D colors are supposed to be more to the red already.
I do think it matters less in the cooler tints though.
I don’t know by heart, but i think some Osrams do.
Maybe Nichia has them too, but probably at a cost.
But when you produce a light of $2000 who cares if the LED will cost 4 times as much as usual?
The light will look the money in the dark by it’s emitted light too, in stead of just average.
The good thing about the XP-G2 is probably that it has relatively little rainbow effect (neutral hotspot, warm corona, cold spill).
Yes Don does use hi cri, his fav is the 119 of which many still today prefer over the 219. Not sure if the 119 is still available or not, but do know he is fastidious in his choosing of LED and wont just try the latest xpl etc etc . Its not for highest output, 200, maybe 300lm tops(bare in mind its a small ti light), early ones were a little over 100lm…………its about beam perfection for EDC uses. So it wont be for everyone, but for ones who want this, its a very good option for an investment.
Here is a snippet of some thoughts/info back in 2014 if interested http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?378217-Cree-XP-G2-added-to-the-line-2014
Jerommel: Not that I’m not into modding, but I just don’t have the knowledge on what/how to do it.
ven: The tint on the XPG2 is rated at 4500k temp, and so is the 119 from what I know, is there that much difference between the two?
Since realising I enjoy neutral tints, I can’t actually stand to use the XM-L2 Haiku, it’s way way too cool white for me. Wish I had realised before I had ordered it.
Not addressed to me, but I can offer my opinions. I haven’t said much about it yet, but following our other conversation about McGizmo’s a couple of weeks ago I ordered one. I went with the 119 for a couple of reasons, namely that I’d never had one before and High CRI is definitely something I care about. So I’ve had a 119 Haiku for about a week now. McGizmo fulfills his orders FAST.
First off I’ll say that the 119 that McGizmo is using literally may be the nicest tinted emitter I’ve ever seen. Not an exaggeration. Its super creamy white, probably about 4800K, supposedly ~94CRI, no off-colors at all, and tons of red. Really, reds pop in this emitter more than anything else I own, and I’ve got lots of 219b and 219c lights. Its the closest thing to sunlight I’ve ever seen. Before I had this emitter I would have said that my SW45 219b triple was about perfect, but really this 119 makes better light.
BUT WAIT, there’s a big catch — this thing is dim. Like, it really feels underpowered in a way that other lights I have don’t. Don’s specs say to expect 172 lumens on high so I wasn’t expecting much to start with, but I’ve got other lower powered lights, like an HDS HCri200, which make plenty of light, but I was really pretty disappointed with the output of this McGizmo. I put it in my blf sphere to check for myself and I got exactly the same number - 172 lumens, so good on McGizmo for that. But it really doesn’t seem like 172 lumens. Maybe its the really dim spill, I don’t know. I got the HIVE driver, so I was able to program it up to 1.2 amps which measures 205 lumens and that helps. Not exactly a barn burner though.
So for comparison I went back to Don’s listings on cpf. His numbers put his XP-G2 at ~50% more efficient, so if my light had an XP-G2 in it, I would expect ~300 lumens. It would be a lot lower CRI though, and you run more risk of Cree’s rainbow. A quick check of djozz’s testing shows that a 219b would probably be capable of similar numbers at 1.2 amps, but it would be a much cleaner tint. A 219c at 1.2 amps should approach 400 lumens of super clean High-CRI light.
So for me, the ideal setup for a Haiku would be a high-cri 219c — super nice light (maybe not quite as nice as the 119, but very nice) and tons of output. But Don doesn’t offer that.
There’s one other consideration though — the 119 only has a 2-pad mounting so you can’t reflow a newer emitter onto the original mcpcb. If I had known that beforehand I probably would not have ordered it. If I had it to go back and do again I’d order the XP-G2, but only so I’d have the right board for reflowing a 219c. Now I’m stuck hunting parts to upgrade my light like I want it, but I’ll get there.
All kinda off topic for this thread though. Good luck with your sale, but it would probably go a lot faster on that other forum.
emarkd: Thank you very much for that detailed insight. I might try and talk to someone who may be able to offer modding of my XM-L2 to the 219c emitter.
