Is there such a thing available aftermarket? I’d like to upgrade a little 14500 light, but a 16mm MCPCB is significantly too big, the stock board is 14mm. Are there any options out there? XP style LED footprint.
You can cut and sand 16mm sinkpad.
Just sand any 16mm pad, 1mm all around shouldn’t take very long.
14mm Aluminum Base Plate Heatsink Board for Cree XP-E (5 pcs) 
I was looking at the 16mm Noctigon I had on hand and it looks certain that sanding down to 14mm would hit the contact pads for the lead… Am I wrong, or is that just not a big deal?
:person_facepalming: Sorry…
It is actually a concern, the copper from the trace is easily smeared out across the dielectric layer to the core. But still I have done it many times and i find that if I use the disk sander and finish the sanding carefully with low pressure, the trace will not short with the core. I always end a little bevelled to prevent electrical contact of the solder joint with the side of the pill.
I used a dremel with the cutting disk and finished 3 noctigons in about 10 minutes, just bevel the top part with fine sand paper and check for continuity after the job.
Thanks djozz and will34 - I’ll give it a go!
"Sinkpad": http: //www.sinkpad.com/inner-product.php id = 42 a Needle File ... Http://www.imagebam.com/image/421dc6526918106!
Sanding it will work fine because the copper pads are still separated from the copper plate, so when you sand it it will just make the pad a bit smaller and you need to be more careful when soldering but otherwise it shoudl not touch the plate.
Sorry to revive this 1 yo thread, but I will make the same question as the OP: are there 14mm copper boards available in the market (that you know of)?
Or are the answers the same as the last seen year, cutting/sanding a 16mm board?
The 14mm would be nice for smaller lights (AA/14500) when driven in a more powerful way…
Thanks in advance! :+1:
I do not know of any.
Sanding copper boards in all shapes and sizes for me comes a bit as a returning aspect of the hobby (ever thinned a copper board, and the skin on your fingers, from 1.6mm to 1mm, using sandpaper? :confounded: )
My only afraid doing that is damaging the plate in someway! I’ve sanded pills and other stuff, but the precision needed is not as much as in a LED board.
Also, the only copper ones I have already have the LED in them, so I would need to protect it not to damage it as well :person_facepalming:
Well, but that’s what you say, it goes back to the hobby to arrange things 
I wanna give my Tool AA a XPL-HI led, but the “suitable” board I have (1mm) is in aluminium, and I’m afraid that it may unsolder.
I may need to sand a spare 16mm board with XPL-HI I have…
You can use a 10mm sinkpad if you want too.
With the same driver the XP-L HI will get less hot than the XP-G2 because it’s working less hard.
The efficiency will be better with under driven LEDs, so less heat.
You mean this one? Or similar?
The stock board from the Tool AA seems to be aluminium but its thicker than other aluminum boards I’ve seen or have.
EDIT: But I don’t feel comfortable enough to reflow the XPL-HI there…
Hum, so this means that the aluminium board would probably hang on the led (XP-L HI) with no desoldering?
I will install this driver on the flashlight, with Crescendo firmware:
Well, a DTP Aluminium board (which are rare but do exist) is just about as good as a DTP Copper board.
So when your thermal path to the flashlight body is okay, no way an LED will desolder itself.