[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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Jerommel
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clemence wrote:
By moving to any higher CRI LEDs,we already sacrifice efficiency. There are always compromises
True of course.
We all want it both ways.. Smile
High CRI AND high efficiency.

2Q19

Jerommel
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Texas_Ace wrote:
The battery has to drop REALLY low in order to get down to your “ideal” 3A, so that is not an issue.
True, but i was thinking of a triple @ 6 Amperes or more.

2Q19

RollerBoySE
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Jerommel wrote:
clemence wrote:
By moving to any higher CRI LEDs,we already sacrifice efficiency. There are always compromises
True of course. We all want it both ways.. Smile High CRI AND high efficiency.

Yes please.
I don’t mind if it can produce high lumens for more than seconds too (it heats up to unhealthy temperatures darn fast when you drive it hard).

clemence
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For streetlightings 100 lumen/watt is pretty standard in 2016. Manufacturer are moving to 120 lumen/watt total SYSTEM lumen this year.
To get the most efficient yet as high as possible CRI to the end user, most manufacturers (including Nichia) have been decreasing chip size. Some goes to small chips meant to reduce intensity and better spread of lighting spots, some forms big COB with much higher voltage at very low current.
For example the 757, E17A, and E21A is Nichia flagship at the moment for it’s (own) record breaking efficiency while maintaining one of the highest efficiency AND CRI in the class. AFAIK, Yuji LED still has the best colour quality but suffers with it’s poor efficiency (60-70 lumen/watt is typical).

mattlward
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Texas_Ace wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Yes, lower Vf=more amps. I have 1 triple build with 219C’s and it can get into crazy amps if you use a good cell and do bypasses. My hope is to get good performance and maintain control with any battery by using the LD3.

I highly doubt that the LD-3 will handle a quad build.

At 12A it will have to dissipate roughly 6W+. It is only rated for 3W with thermal cubes IIRC. Same issue I have ran into with the Texas commander.

Although you should be able to get away with a normal FET driver in a quad. I have an S41 quad 219C 4000k and it works fine. It pulls around 21-22A in turbo but that is ok as it is around 5A per LED which is about perfect.

Although it gets VERY hot. If you use long thin wires you could drop that down a bit. 24AWG is about the thinnest I would go.

I hope you are wrong, I am worried about the same thing. The manufacturer assured me it would handle the load… I have not yet committed to using that driver, but I have to find a driver that will handle it. My triple 219C’s at around 15 amps have issues in turbo, I think it is noise spikes or current spikes in the driver and it will drop out of turbo after about 20 seconds. Battery is still up to par at that point. Have tried 30q’s, and high output Panasonic’s and get the same thing to happen. I have tried the mountain FET+1 and the A6 drivers and 1 FET+1 that I built with the Vishay FET. I may have to try one of yours as well. These 219C’s are beastly.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Boaz
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 happy to totally ignore this conversation/ thread until someone has leds for sale .

 

 

Shut -up and take my money

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

clemence
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Hahaha LOL

Be specific about the LED

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I want some of the 219B 9080’s and likely more 4000k 219c 9050’s unless the 9080’s hit the street.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I did a mod with the 219B v1 4500K R9080, (few pics in what did you mod today), and like Clemence I’m not overly enthousiastic about the tint (I like more yellow with the red), but the colour contrast is super!! I will try to grow into the tint as well Smile

clemence
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djozz wrote:
I did a mod with the 219B v1 4500K R9080, (few pics in what did you mod today), and like Clemence I’m not overly enthousiastic about the tint (I like more yellow with the red), but the colour contrast is super!! I will try to grow into the tint as well Smile

For me sw45k creates a warm vivid scene but somehow unnatural. Great for retro boutique lighting

RollerBoySE
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Does R9080 exist in 5000K (219B or C)?

Boaz
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clemence wrote:
djozz wrote:
I did a mod with the 219B v1 4500K R9080, (few pics in what did you mod today), and like Clemence I’m not overly enthousiastic about the tint (I like more yellow with the red), but the colour contrast is super!! I will try to grow into the tint as well Smile

For me sw45k creates a warm vivid scene but somehow unnatural. Great for retro boutique lighting


Happy to take them off your hands all you 4500K 9080 haters Smile
.. i personally like red ..lots and lots of red . Green and yellow not so much . i have a 4000K nichia jaxsman that I think has too much yellow .

///when tint snobs meet ///nobody’s happy Smile
I’m still a big 4A and 5C fan

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

clemence
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Boaz wrote:
clemence wrote:
djozz wrote:
I did a mod with the 219B v1 4500K R9080, (few pics in what did you mod today), and like Clemence I’m not overly enthousiastic about the tint (I like more yellow with the red), but the colour contrast is super!! I will try to grow into the tint as well Smile

For me sw45k creates a warm vivid scene but somehow unnatural. Great for retro boutique lighting


Happy to take them off your hands all you 4500K 9080 haters Smile
.. i personally like red ..lots and lots of red . Green and yellow not so much . i have a 4000K nichia jaxsman that I think has too much yellow .

///when tint snobs meet ///nobody’s happy Smile

Unfortunately I have no 219B 9080 sw45k left on me. Silly
Still trying to get more of this one

clemence
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RollerBoySE wrote:
Does R9080 exist in 5000K (219B or C)?

 

This is what I can get you:

E17A Ra9080: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K

E21A Ra9080: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K

219B-V1 Ra9080: 2700K, 3000K, 4000K, *4500K BBL*, 

219C Ra9050: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K

144AM Ra9050: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K

319A Ra8000: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K

 

bold = long lead time, unreliable/uncertain availability

grey = uncertain availability or discontinued

 

From Maukka's test result, the 219C sm503 Ra9050 is actually Ra9080. Could be lottery though, since the R9 is rated at MINIMUM 50 points. Could be higher as tested but not guaranteed

clemence
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Much better tint shots now. More balanced brightness between 144AM and the rest 319A and 219C. Used two different power supplies

 

Justintoxicated
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Wow wonderful pictures, where does one get these SM355s ?

clemence
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Justintoxicated wrote:

Wow wonderful pictures, where does one get these SM355s ?

The sm355 319A delivery was much too late. I got it when I finished sending the packets to Texas_Ace and Chouster
But those sm353 219A were offered in the sale too.

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I had my Acebeam EC50 II modded with a Nichia 144A 4500K R9050. The tint is rather nice (very much like daylight) and it is rather bright in the highest modes. The only problem ist that the LED produces a very warm corona even though the light has an OP-reflector. I am now trying to find a TIR-lens with built in diffusor that will produce a similar beam, but with a more even tint.

(It’s in German)
http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/acebeam-ec50-ii-mod-mit-nichia...

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The_Driver wrote:
I had my Acebeam EC50 II modded with a Nichia 144A 4500K R9050. The tint is rather nice (very much like daylight) and it is rather bright in the highest modes. The only problem ist that the LED produces a very warm corona even though the light has an OP-reflector. I am now trying to find a TIR-lens with built in diffusor that will produce a similar beam, but with a more even tint.

(It’s in German)
http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/acebeam-ec50-ii-mod-mit-nichia...

Very nice built Driver! Thanks for the link.
Yes, TIR is better suited for 144AM. To me, the beam is much better than XHP50 with any optics.
FYI, never try to roughen the led dome. It has minimal effect while somewhat lowers the output. Mild diffuser on refector also works very nice. You might want to try luminit 5deg, it makes huge difference.

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Could somebody do comparison beamshots with the R9080 219B and a R9050 Nichia? Maybe a magazine cover or some flowers to show the color differences. Preferably with similar color temperatures.

mattlward
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I built a triple for a customer this weekend, will see what I can do. The 9080 is so perfect! Now I need some for me. Any one want to sell a few?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

mattlward
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Not sure that these will help alot, but all were shot at 4500k and all leds except the 7A are within 1000k of 4500k. It was cold and windy outside and my daughter and I got cold. We have better nights this week and I may redo this work with the camera on auto.

XM-L2 4C
4C

XP-L Hi 5A2
5A2

XM-L2 5C1
5C1

XM-L2 7A2
7A2

219C SW403
219c SW403

219B-V1 SW45k
219b SW45k

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

The_Driver
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Well that was quick, thanks!

mattlward
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Sorry the pics kinda suck, it was really cold and windy!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

badhakker
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Received my order today. Thank you very much.

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I just used up the last of my 219B’s. I built a quad VG-10 with them and it is amazing. Around ~2100 lumens but a truly amazing tint. Nice and floody as well (although less floody then I expected) and perfect for a photo light. Already used it to great success for some extra lighting for some pictures.

In a quad setup with a TA driver and 20AWG wires it only pulls around ~10A on a HE2 battery, I expected more but glad at the results due to the heat of almost 40W being a bit more then the VG-10 can handle.

Now to wait for some more of these. I was doing some experiments last night with my EDC options. All LED’s have the dome on.

A single 219C 4000k will do ~775 lumens and 143m of throw at 2.5A and ~1100 lumens with 182m of throw on turbo with 6A.

A triple 219C 4000k will do ~875 lumens and ~92m of throw (84m of throw with a 15011 optic but more flood) at 2.5A. Going to 2100 lumens and 140m of throw (133m with 15011 optic) on turbo at ~16A (didn’t measure it but I think it was around here).

A triple 219B 9080 does ~800 lumens and ~96m of throw at 2.5A going to ~1750 lumens and 144m of throw on turbo at ~10A.

Based on these results I am not seeing any reason to not use the 219B triple as my EDC as it gives me the best of both throw and lumens. Now to decide if it is worth ripping apart 2 lights to build a EDC triple 219B now or wait for the next batch to become available and build a new light then…..

clemence
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The gain decrease in lumen from 2,5A to 10A and to 16A is amazingly steep. I imagine the heat they create must be more than 60C at the body

AEDe
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Is anybody know where to buy mcpcb for 144 16/14mm, 1.6mm , noDTP?
I like 144 in H03 host, but without proper mcpcb xhp50 is more convenient to install…

Wieselflinkpro
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AEDe wrote:
Is anybody know where to buy mcpcb for 144 16/14mm, 1.6mm , noDTP?
I like 144 in H03 host, but without proper mcpcb xhp50 is more convenient to install…

Here are some: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48934
But you need to scratch the pads a little bigger.
He used it in his test: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/49834
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:

Here are some
But you need to scratch the pads a little bigger.

And make spacer 0.6mm, and applay 2 layers of thermal paste. So it not for 144 and not 1.6mm.

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