DEL's OSH-Park driver boards

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DEL
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DEL's OSH-Park driver boards

These were done around my preferences and criteria, but I thought others might find them useful as well. Most are based on the popular BLF FET ‘direct-drive’ + 1×7135 design. There is also a simple 3+1×7135 board. They all include pads for R5, the added resistor that solves the MCU instability issues in high-power lights. R3 is also there, the FET gate pull-down resistor that is needed when a very low gate voltage FET is used. 20 mm and up boards include extra stability components (C2 and R4) and the MCU pads are sized to fit anything from the tiny13A to the tiny85.

None of these boards, however, have pads for an OTC (off-time capacitor). So no conventional off-time memory or medium-press detection on clicky lights.

The board lay-outs are about as good as it gets (electrically) with what is basically a single-layer design. I have built several of the 17 mm boards and are using them extensively without any issues. I also have two M6’s running with rev00 of the M6 board, real happy with how those turned out.

DDm17 rev03 – Built and tested.
17 mm DD+1 driver.
Now superseded by rev04


DDm17 rev04 – Built and tested.
17 mm DD+1 driver.
Rev04 is a slight modification on rev03 to get more clearance for the programming clip.


DDm20 rev00 – Built and tested.
20 mm DD+1 driver.

Rev01 – Built and tested.


DDm22 rev00 – No plans to order.
Added 5 Feb 2017. 20 mm DD+1 driver.


DDmY3 rev00 – Built and tested.
23 mm DD+1 driver for the Yezl Y3 (1S). Ears need may need slight sanding to fit.


DDmM6/SRK rev01 – Built and tested.
46 mm DD+1 driver.


DDmM6/SRK rev02 – No plans to order.
46 mm DD+1 driver.
This one gives the option of one to eight 7135 chips for the regulated channel.


1400m rev00 – Built and tested.
17 mm CC+1 driver.
This one is a favorite of mine for Convoy S-series lights! It is what I use in my EDC S3. Two regulated channels, based on Harlequin’s HQ4D board. Note: Only good for 1.4 A.


DDmL4 rev01 – Built and tested.
DD+1 driver for the Convoy L4 (1S).


5.6m rev01c – Built and tested.
46 mm CC+1 driver for SRKs with stock non-DTP mcpcbs.
2-Channel, up to 5.6 A.

Edited by: DEL on 04/21/2017 - 19:54
DEL
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Pretty Purple PCBs LOL

DEL
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Schematic for the DD+1 driver models listed above:

And these two oscilloscope screen grabs show why R5 was added during testing of the initial Q8 driver. With R5 = 0 ohm:

The yellow trace is the power feed of the micro controller at its pin 8.

With R5 = 2.2 ohm (I am using 4.7 ohm now):

HarleyQuin
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Well done Thumbs Up
These finished boards look great.
Oh, by the way thanks for your research of the R5. Smile

Oshpark Boards:
Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

DEL
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Thanks HQ. Hope you do not mind my appropriation of your HQ4D board Smile

I actually ordered and built a few of your boards, but OSH missed the vias on half of them. So I just added a few of my own design on my next order. Great balance of power and heat in a small light.

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Hi Del,
I don’t mind at all. I didn’t invent the wheel with the HQ4D either and just adapted existing ideas for my needs.
Out of curiosity: Which vias were bad and how? I encountered all kinds of oshpark glitches, but til now the vias were nor affected.

Oshpark Boards:
Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

DEL
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HarleyQuin wrote:
Which vias were bad and how? I encountered all kinds of oshpark glitches, but til now the vias were nor affected.

They simply missed all of them on some boards. No vias at all. That was my only OSH Park glitch up to now.

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I dont understand it at all DEL but do know its good work. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

DavidEF
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Wow DEL! That is a bunch of boards! I’d seen a couple of your boards at OSH Park, so I knew you were working on some. But I didn’t know you had this much going on! Impressive! Thanks for sharing these with us!

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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very clean layouts, good stuff.

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Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

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It would be nice to update RBD’s Oshpark thread with a link to here.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

chouster
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Thank you, DEL, for all your contributions, research and help. Beer

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That thread is long overdue for a massive update. Facepalm I’m not really sure of the best way to keep its op from getting unwieldy. It’s very difficult not only to edit a single already LARGE post but navigate it to find something. So many drivers only slightly different from each other, not to mention all the other project pcb’s. I’m inclined to just post author thread links under linear, buck, and boost and let the authors organize their own op descriptions and links and accept that there will be a fair amount of redundancy. Given that no one of us has editorial control to organize the separate threads into consistent layout under one umbrella it’s always going to be a patchwork but I need to do at least something to bring it up to date regardless of the result.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Thanks RBD. I do use your thread regularly and assume others do as well.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Nice work. Each new design might seem to add an unnecessary redundancy but to me that’s part of the evolution of the drivers to find out what works best. Having Oshpark available to try them in piecemeal quantities makes for a hand in glove relationship. It’s just difficult to keep track of.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

DEL
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Thanks for the kind words everyone. I hope to eventually add schematics and also scope traces to show the advantages of the few extra components.

Of course if you need an OTC, or would like to have the full complement of stability components on a 17 mm board, or a 3-channel board, TA is your man!

I will add a link on RBD’s thread as requested.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Each new design might seem to add an unnecessary redundancy but to me that’s part of the evolution of the drivers
+1
Those who design boards will always make new versions for their needs. Be it a small tweak or a big change. But if it’s shared, those who are not accustomed to board design will benefit from this diversity and the designers get new ideas. I’m always happy to see new designers joining the herd and new designs coming up.

And this, RBD, is where your thread is the center of it all. Be it patchwork or not, it’s invaluable.

Which reminds me I’m overdue with enlisting more than one board to your thread myself. Facepalm

Oshpark Boards:
Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

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DEL wrote:
DDmY3 rev00 – Ordered, but still en-route. (link is external)
For the Yezl Y3 (1S).

Nice! What do I need to add/change to get it going for a 2S setup?
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finges wrote:
DEL wrote:
DDmY3 rev00 – Ordered, but still en-route. (link is external) For the Yezl Y3 (1S).
Nice! What do I need to add/change to get it going for a 2S setup?

Have to add a resistor and Zener diode in the same positions as on the ‘standard’ DD drivers. Here we have the luxury of C2. So swap out D1 for a 220 ohm resistor and replace (or stack) C2 with a 4.7 V Zener diode.

The same precautions hold as usual:

  • This is only good for 6 V emitters.
  • The 7135 will run hot at high PWM, but the 7135 has a good surface of copper for itself on this board and it should be OK.
  • Parasitic drain will be up to 20 mA while the tail switch is on.

EDIT: If the voltage reading is important, I would lower R5 to 1 or 2.2 ohm get a more accurate voltage to R1/R2. This is necessary because of that 20 mA parasitic drain.

finges
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DEL wrote:
finges wrote:
DEL wrote:
DDmY3 rev00 – Ordered, but still en-route. (link is external) For the Yezl Y3 (1S).
Nice! What do I need to add/change to get it going for a 2S setup?

Have to add a resistor and Zener diode in the same positions as on the ‘standard’ DD drivers. Here we have the luxury of C2. So swap out D1 for a 220 ohm resistor and replace (or stack) C2 with a 4.7 V Zener diode.

The same precautions hold as usual:

  • This is only good for 6 V emitters.
  • The 7135 will run hot at high PWM, but the 7135 has a good surface of copper for itself on this board and it should be OK.
  • Parasitic drain will be up to 20 mA while the tail switch is on.

EDIT: If the voltage reading is important, I would lower R5 to 1 or 2.2 ohm get a more accurate voltage to R1/R2. This is necessary because of that 20 mA parasitic drain.


Great, thank you! Ordered!
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The Yezl boards came in on Thursday so I put one together today. Fit is pretty good, just had to take ~0.5 mm off the ears for a nice snug fit.

The Digikey switches will only be in on Monday, so I transplanted the stock switch for now. It had two plastic support pins at the bottom that I was unaware of (snip-snip), otherwise the footprint is identical to the Digikey part number.

Melted the corners of the switch a little with the hot-air rework gun Sad …will try some aluminum foil protection next time.

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Nice DEL! I have to get started on the Y3 board real soon. I got in a lot of your 17's, but must have missed the 20's. I'll be ordering them asap.

Edit: wondering bout the potential of doing a similar driver for the Convoy L4. You can buy it as a host, but since the switch is driver mounted, it makes it difficult to utilize the side switch.

You can get the host here at BG listed for $20, but with Martin's code M4DCONVOY, you can get it 20% off. One of my first piggyback mods was done on the L4. Dunno... The L4 has been around a long time, it's a big C8, kind of dated looking for what you can get now in more compact pocket friendly sizes. For $16 though it's a good deal for modding. This is what I did, showing the stock driver:

DEL
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An L4 driver should be an easy adaptation of the Y3 driver. Would just need the board dimensions – diameter, flat center to board center, details for the key tab at the opposite end. And the part number / pad layout for the switch you want to use.

For the Y3 driver, if you had any concerns for +vias, I measured 2 mV drop at 5 A on my sample with vias solder-filled.

My 20 mm drivers are not here yet, but I just shared a 22 mm version as well (going up is easy! Smile ).

DEL
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Amazon shows the basic dimensions for the L4’s LD34 driver. Wonder if the Y3 driver with altered ‘gibbosity’? tabs would fit:

EDIT: I can probably work with the nice photo here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/496610#comment-496610

From the photo the button center is 2 mm above the PCB. The Y3 switch is 1.75 mm, so should work. The LD34’s through-hole switch would be much more durable than the SMD type on the Y3, but I would need a suitable part number and datasheet. The SMD switch should be good with a little bit of epoxy backing Tom?

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I can get measurements. Could tear down my modded L4. Wonder if the Y3 style switch would work - I'll take a closer look.

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That L4 host is tempting Tom! From what I see it takes a Convoy C8 reflector?

L4, Work-in-progress:

Printing this to scale might help to judge the fit (interior of the outline is 23.6 mm across, east-west):

PDF

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Ahh. Just took my L4 apart. The stock driver is slightly bigger than your Y3 at 23.6, guess you knew that. There's slop though it how it mounts. There's really 23.8 mm measured space, and the stock back tab is too small both in width and depth. The L4's switch sticks out a bit further, is slightly higher. The height may be ok, but depth would probably be  a problem, but you could glue a disc to the metal button of the L4 since it's a nice big round surface.

I think I bought some of those L4 switches from DigiKey... Gotta check.

Look'n at your design, the back tab, though you matched the driver, doesn't do all that much. The cutout in the L4 is much wider. Now of course I got an old L4, so things could have changed in the latest L4's.

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Tom, I think this is the DK switch for the L4:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/apem-inc/MJTP1117/679-2400-ND/1795496

I will see if I can fit the footprints for both switches. I shared a WIP 2.0 on OSH in the meantime. It has a bigger key tab. Think I will up-size the board to 23.8 mm as well, nothing a little sanding cannot fix if it ends up too tight.

Order from OSH Park

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K, sounds good. These are the ones I ordered: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/PTS635VH39-LFS/CKN9089-ND/1146803. On mine the actuator is slightly longer, and pressure is slightly higher, yours have a higher 100,000 cycle rating, other than that they look the same. Ohh - mine are out of stock, and thinking I ordered these for building the Roche F6, driver designed by Halo I think. This was 2 years ago...

Also - got the Y3 driver tabs sanded down a little and got a really nice snug fit in the Y3 I'm updating smile. Much better fit than the stock driver - should be a much improved mod, better than the stacked driver, slop fit for sure...

 

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Nice for the Y3 Tom!

My 17 mm rev04 boards came in. They are in the thin/2 oz option, so took longer than usual. They feel paper-thin if you are used to the regular boards.

I fitted the THD switch to the draft LD-34 replacement. It is huge compared to the Y3’s SMD switch:

Still have to fine-tune the outside diameter, ground rings and the flat a little, but let me know if you have any comments. The switch took away some space for the spring as well.

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Rev. 00 of the LD-34 replacement driver:

(No warranty, implied or otherwise! LOL )

Order from OSH Park

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