a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

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Dirt
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26650+Nichia= Thumbs Up

ohaya
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chooma wrote:
Ordered a Warm White yesterday. A triple for under 30, heck yeah……18350 and a 18500 tube….uhhhh yeah.

How do you specify tint on the order? I don’t see somewhere to request that?

Thanks,
Jim

EDIT: NVM I see it now.

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ohaya wrote:
- is the MCPCB glued to the built-in shelf?

That, iirr.

I mentioned… probably in this thread, not sure… that it looks like plain ol’ Fujik, not thermal-epoxy, so it’d be the typische rubbery goop that’s often used in lieu of actual thermal paste.

Once someone gets a light and dissects it, we’ll know for sure.

Wonderfully thick chunk o’ copper from the looks in the pic, so you could probably just shave right through it with an Xacto™ blade.

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djozz
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ohaya wrote:

Maybe instead of doing that, could the emitters be reflowed “in place”? I have done that in the past with some lights (Nitecore) using a heat gun. They weren’t triples though…

That should go perfectly well, especially with a heatgun. The emitters may wait to reflow until the entire head has heated up enough (but the driver is removed anyway I suppose), but that will not have been different with the Nitecore.
wle
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113mm, really, whose pocket does that fit in?

not mine

can you please try to make something using 18650, length 90mm or less?

DQG did it, but i had 2 of them and they both broke

i’m sure it;s very nice but 90mm or less, please

wle

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djozz wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Maybe instead of doing that, could the emitters be reflowed "in place"? I have done that in the past with some lights (Nitecore) using a heat gun. They weren't triples though...
That should go perfectly well, especially with a heatgun. The emitters may wait to reflow until the entire head has heated up enough (but the driver is removed anyway I suppose), but that will not have been different with the Nitecore.

If you haven't ordered yet, you may want to check with the OP to see if the following offer from post 75 still stands.  If not, your reflow in head idea sounds promising.  It would be hard to pry out the MCPCB from inside a head on a fixed shelf without causing some damage.

EDIT:  If there is a part of the MCPCB exposed over a hole in the shelf, you can probably push the MCPCB up.  It will likely bend the MCPCB, but they can sometimes be reflattened or replaced at not too much cost.

jaxman wrote:
. . .  hi dears, If anyone need we use a silicon paste instead of the glue, we sure can do it for you .that is too easy . but we will do it only our buyer reqire it. To use a silicon paste is more easy and low cost than now.
wle
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can anyone make < 90mm 18650 that won’t break?

wle

DB Custom
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Can anyone make ANYTHING that won’t break?

I know people that could break a 90mm long bar of 25mm diameter Titanium bar stock…

Dale

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wle wrote:
can anyone make < 90mm 18650 that won’t break?

wle


Are you going to stalk every tube 18650 light thread with your request ?
I, for one, love compact tube light 18650 but you will not make a supplier create a flashlight just for you…

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wle
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stalking – sure, what manufacturer wouldn’t covet a guaranteed sale of 1 entire unit? Smile

the DQGs did not break due to me trying to break them

wle

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DB Custom wrote:
Can anyone make ANYTHING that won’t break?

I know people that could break a 90mm long bar of 25mm diameter Titanium bar stock…

Short answer….. Nope. Wink
I taught school for almost 30 years, I had some Jr High kids that could no doubt have “broken” a superbly heat treated steel brick if given just a bit of time…… Facepalm
It always utterly amazed me at how easily they could tear something up that would have lasted me a lifetime.
And they were not doing it on purpose either………… Facepalm

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caramba
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wle wrote:
113mm, really, whose pocket does that fit in?

not mine

can you please try to make something using 18650, length 90mm or less?

DQG did it, but i had 2 of them and they both broke

i’m sure it;s very nice but 90mm or less, please

wle

I think the popular S2+ is 118mm.

DB Custom
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120.7mm on the A6, 118.8 on the S2+

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
Can anyone make ANYTHING that won’t break?

The Atomic Beam people!

Hell, you can deep-fry that sucker!

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caramba
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Lightbringer wrote:

The Atomic Beam people!

Hell, you can deep-fry that sucker!

Silly

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caramba wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:

The Atomic Beam people!

Hell, you can deep-fry that sucker!

Silly

And later, they deep-fry the Humvee!

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T18
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Well whoever hit my rude button, sorry first and thank you second, you don’t know rude..!

Got the E2L today, have pictures but haven’t uploaded them yet and don’t know if I want to waste my time.

First I’ll tell you the stainless bezel is not glued,
I took it off with my hand, it has glass and gitd ring, gave it a couple taps on the desk to see if that optic would just maybe drop out but no, didn’t really expect it to really,

It legos with the regular E2 and it legos with the S2 and others same Jax threads but I was using a flat top so it didn’t fire with the S2+ tube and there’s a bit of space with the convoy tube, not ugly but maybe button top or drop it a thread,
Real nice machining of course, that’s Jaxman not sloppy.
I don’t know, what I do know is I’m not thrilled and see a rebuild for sure.

I watched that vid on youtube on this new triple and already new and expected that stainless bezel (to you builders you know what I’m saying, the angle cut on the bezel reflects into the beam, easy fix though) was going to be a problem issue, heck you can see it in the pictures the OP pics, reflects in the beam horribly,
The head looks very nice compared to the older E2 head a bit smaller head and light overall.
I’ll post pics if asked because your the gang but honestly there’s nothing to see that I can ‘t say

Edit: It is priced exactly right, seemed to have forget this is only 900lm but really is just right for this light, the light grows on you once you understand what kind of light it is, might need a rebuild, but what doesn’t get rebuilt.. nothing in my world, well M43 only changed lenses.

T18
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Thought I’d clarify so not to give a completely wrong first immediate impression here of this new light,
First I am accustomed to a different sort of triple I guess, those stainless bezels can always be an issue or sometimes not, depends, I got warm white E2L
So what did I grab to do my first comparison a S3 with a H17F 3A + DD Carclo Lens 10507 XP-L HI 3000K so this is not really what you’d want to white wall with first off and it’s not dark yet, so should hold my horses.
The warm white is warm, to the 3K I’m guessing maybe 4K..?
And this is a different lens than the carlco so I believe, my S3 also had the same bezel issues until I Dremeled out the ID and then I got a nice round beam, this new light is alright, priced right, but when dark gets here that should really make a difference, I can’t rely on white walls to make comments like the former and really be serious, not yet, I want to give this the complete run down and that was knee jerk… by jerk himself.. ha

Edit: Light grows on you once you understand what it is meant to be, the lens has me baffled a bit, seems different than what I’ve seen before, that shinny bezel is a bugger, that’s I could see in the vid so not surprised, this light is just about 2mm shorter than a S3 and what is really nice is how Jax got all the branding and perfectly aligned I love that, that is some perfect machine work and branding looks super clean,

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I received my warm yellow E2L and it is quite nice. I like the smooth flat finish. It wasn’t as warm as I was expecting, comparable to my 4200-4500k S2+. Side by side it looks to be tinged more red to my eyes at least. Not as much throw as an OP S2+ out in my backyard, but I like the profile of the beam as it is my first triple. It feels as thermals work quite well because the heat gets warm quute fast and I can feel it seeping to the back of the light where in the S2+ it feels like it takes a while for the head to get hot, but then it just stays there. I’ve not looked at the internals yet, but it feels quite nicely made. Thumbs up to Jaxman!

T18
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Well that crashed, pics weren’t resized, sorry, so just a link to a few of the pics of the E2L if your interested.

http://imgur.com/a/lTnzr

caramba
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T18 wrote:
Well that crashed, pics weren’t resized, sorry, so just a link to a few of the pics of the E2L if your interested. http://imgur.com/a/lTnzr

!{width:50%}[img]http://i.imgur.com/vijND5q.jpg?1[/img]!

very nice table review Thumbs Up

T18
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caramba wrote:
T18 wrote:
Well that crashed, pics weren’t resized, sorry, so just a link to a few of the pics of the E2L if your interested. http://imgur.com/a/lTnzr

!{width:50%}[img]http://i.imgur.com/vijND5q.jpg?1[/img]!

very nice table review Thumbs Up


Ha Ha, thank you, I was really in a rush, but have now completely disassembled the light and I think they used like thermal adhesive on the board so it’s tough to break loose but doable in a circular motion, do not pry up on the board, well you can but you’ll know why you shouldn’t have soon enough, and the optic, pry up gently at all three posts, they are press fit tight, good assembly really,
Anyhow, there’s is NO glue, that OP pic with the big glob of something is just that, something, there’s nothing in my light that looks even remotely like that glob pic.. ha ha so all the discussion was nonsense just like I said, there is no no no glue and wouldn’t be.
But that bezel can be a bear to get off, already been asked a bunch of times, there’s the GITD O ring you can see and one O ring that you can’t see, it’s at the top of the threads of the bezel and that’s what will hang you up, use the palm of your hand or one of the rubber pickle lid remover things or rubber strap wrench, the only time I really had a hard time taking it off was after I put it back on, put now I’ve got it all sitting here thinking I’m might use Reys Nichia’s in this or not, might just leave it as is, it is exactly as advertised. Took some pics if anyone needs to see what to expect..
T18
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Edit: Pic number 4 you can see the black O ring around the threads of the bezel threads, that is what is hanging you up.
Edit 3.14 – The pictures of a clean NO Goop in the driver pocket etc may not be typical of what your going to see if you buy one of these lights built, I am not really sure why mine is built so clean but I’ve seen and been told that other members are not getting as lucky and their driver pocket is full of some kind of goop.. So don’t believe your eyes here..! Goat remains the same.. No change, but this light did get my goat.





teacher
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Nice pics T18, thank you for sharing them. Thumbs Up

Looks like all the discussion about to much “goop” thankfully turned out to be much speculation about nothing. Wink

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||   Confucius say -- Baaa-haaaaaa......   tongue-out

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

T18
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Thank you Teacher, yes and the OP’s pic didn’t help with the big glob of goop and controversy that followed,
As I was trying to say back when all heck broke out over glue, I know Jax and they wouldn’t glue like we have seen in some other lights seriously glued. Here’s my proof of what I said, got dismissed so…. whatever.. haha
This board is though held down with thermal adhesive, I think I’ve said this already, and it’s tough stuff and not easy to lift without doing some big damage, but there is a technique to be successful, sort of what I was attempting to show here, should be sort of visually apparent what I’m talking about, and for many it’s nothing new of course, so might have wasted a bunch of time, however flip side I’ve been getting a lot of PMs asking how to remove that bezel,
I really don’t want to say that if you don’t know how to remove just the bezel that maybe you shouldn’t be thinking about removing it because it gets a bit more difficult from there with how well pressed the optic are, if not approached with some thought you’ll break the pegs off the posts in nothing flat, they are really pressed in tight, so only trying to helpful not know it all and prevent someone from doing what they might do if not looking at this from the right angle, or left. Probably a waste of time,

Edit: one last add here, this is really one of the better assembly’s I’ve seen frankly and the description of what your buying here is precisely what your going to get, nothing less and nothing more, great price for what your buying, would I buy another? No, I’d buy the host x 10..

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T18 wrote:

Awwwww! They’re so cute before Satan gets their souls…

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Evgeniy
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T18 wrote:
_fotos _

thanks.

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Looking forward to the Nichia version of this light.

T18
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Ha Ha Lightbringer, nut.. Satan gets my goat.. Oh know,

And thank you Evgeniy or your welcome, both, and to all who have sent PMs, thank you also,

No I do not believe the optic is glued at all, it may have some thermal adhesive that might have squeezed up through the boards holes onto the bottom of the pegs, maybe, but that wouldn’t be your problem either, it is just a really solid assembly and the optics pegs are pressed into the boards holes very very tight, so gently with the right kind of tool pry up at each peg and just keep gently prying circularly until you feel it break loose,
I went around maybe 5 times applying gentle pressure on each peg I didn’t know either at first what was the hang up but I also had a spare carclo 10507 in case I broke the lens and used what looks like a small curved metal spatula thing, but slight pry’s on the posts keeps it aligned evenly and won’t tweak one side to much and break the peg, it is tight for sure, good luck and you know you can make a good bezel tool out of needle nose pliers and some heat shrink tubing, I ground off the needle nose gripping so it was smooth and then but shrink tubing 2 layers actually since it was thin stuff and the rubber gives a good grip on those bezels and is also easier to see than trying to twist those off with your hands, or use a rubber pickle jar lid remover thingy, ha ha, lots of odd ball tools, but patience and calm is the trick most the time.

KawiBoy1428
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Lightbringer wrote:
T18 wrote:

Awwwww! They’re so cute before Satan gets their souls…


LMAO!!!!!!


OMG! Is he Stoned or what!

What ya growing in the Garden there T18???

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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