ThorFire Official Deals- Save 40% on 500 Lumen TG06S flashlight, 21st August 2018 Updated

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Lightbringer
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Hi Lightbringer.  I’m don’t believe ThorFire will require or expect you to return the lights.

Yep, just got that in a PM. Will work it out through Amazon channels.

Even with the “wrong” reflector, they’ve got a great beam, so I can’t wait to see what it’s like with the “right” reflector!

Will have to figure out the dimensions of the stars+disc, try to whip up a Cu spacer on my own. Don’t really have the tools or a machine-shop, other than files and such to shape the critter manually (shaving it down if need be), so it might be a bit tedious.

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The Miller
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I think the way to go would be
Get two copper DTP stars
Put a little solderpaste between them, and where the led goes
Reflow led and join the two in one go.
But I don’t have this light only an original second run bought from member X3 and I like it a lot Wink

Lightbringer
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The Miller wrote:
I think the way to go would be Get two copper DTP stars Put a little solderpaste between them, and where the led goes Reflow led and join the two in one go. But I don’t have this light only an original second run bought from member X3 and I like it a lot Wink

Would still have to shave off the dielectric, but imagine it’s less tedious than trying to shave down a Cu blank.

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sac02
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Shocked

I was oblivious to the latest developments in this thread until just now. I ordered a couple VG10 during the group buy, I just checked tracking and they are scheduled to be delivered today. I’ll open them up and see what the guts look like, but I guess I should anticipate it will be :POOPEMOTICON: I will report back with my findings tonight…

But it seems like Thorfire is trying to make it right, which is what matters. For now I will give them the benefit of the doubt until proven otherswise. I will contact them and give them the opportunity if I have concerns.

vwpieces
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There is a Bright side to the VG10’s that have the stack of crap under the emitter….

Parts for the Convoy M2 will fit. Here is my latest VG10 using the M2 Quad spacer from kiriba-ru. I have not tried the M2 reflector alone but will in a few minutes. Theoritically it should work and I have a couple spare reflectors from M2 quad builds. And just a heads up… I did have to reduce the OD of the brass ring that came witht he M2 quad parts to fit inside the head of the VG10.

Also I tried to swap heads onto a VG10 that did not have the crap under emitter with one that does and they do Not thread together… No-Lego.



ImA4Wheelr
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^

Wowser!  Love what you did there.  Thanks for the lego info too.

sac02
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Same as others.

  • Spacers under LED star
  • blemished reflector
  • chipped lens

XXX-Man
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Any solution found for replacing that “spacer” with something?

I could always make something, but don’t have tools.
Already made solution would be perfect.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

sac02
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Despite the issues with the current batch, I still like the VG10 and would be interested in placing another order. If I placed another order before the GB closes on 3/21, would I receive lights from the same batch with the bad LED spacers? Or could it be confirmed that I would receive units from a good batch?

Lightbringer
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sac02 wrote:
But it seems like Thorfire is trying to make it right, which is what matters. For now I will give them the benefit of the doubt until proven otherswise. I will contact them and give them the opportunity if I have concerns.

Just curious…

Has anything happened as far as those who ordered lights through Amazon? Last PM left off with me offering the 2 order-IDs from Amazon (because how else can they know who ordered what, naturally), but got nothing in reply since.

Am I supposed to grex through Amazon under “contact seller” or raise a complaint (“product not as described”) or something? (The latter sounds kinda negative, so I’d want to avoid that unless specifically told by TF to go that route.)

Only reason I’m getting antsy is because I just got a new fancy card in the mail with the chip inside, and has a completely different number and everything, so if the offer is to toss me some bux to the old card on which I charged the lights, that’d be defunct once I activate the new card.

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Lightbringer
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XXX-Man wrote:
Any solution found for replacing that “spacer” with something?

I could always make something, but don’t have tools.
Already made solution would be perfect.

Sounds like kiba-ru might be able to make a quick killing with perfectly-dimensioned and drilled Cu spacers!

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ImA4Wheelr
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^

Hope you get resolution soon LB.  Please keep us posted.

 

XXX-Man wrote:
Any solution found for replacing that "spacer" with something? I could always make something, but don't have tools. Already made solution would be perfect.

You could get 2 or 3 pre-1982 US pennies, clean them and pound them flat.  Once you have them to the diameter you want, you can stack them to see if they get you high enough.  If they are a little shy, reflow them to each other and that will increase the height some.  If you don't want to reflow, thermal paste should do.  If too tall, pound them some more and file the perimeter to get to fit in the head again.

 

sac02 wrote:
Despite the issues with the current batch, I still like the VG10 and would be interested in placing another order. If I placed another order before the GB closes on 3/21, would I receive lights from the same batch with the bad LED spacers? Or could it be confirmed that I would receive units from a good batch?

Good question.  Also, maybe ofter the remaining lights for sale as hosts.  They will sell fast if the price is reasonable.

 

mapache
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The dtp copper stars from KD might make good spacers. The di layer disolves in fuel from memory.

Lightbringer
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Hope you get resolution soon LB.  Please keep us posted.

<sigh>

It gets even more fun…

I just got another 3 I ordered a while ago, never opened the boxes yet. Just for s&g I decided to do that, test them Just Because, as the first 2 I got worked perfectly.

First one seemed DOA. Took the 30Q from the VG10 I carry in my bag, so it’s known-good. Half-press the switch, nothing. Full-press the switch. Still nothing. Loosen then snug up everything. Hmm, unwanted TCLO? Unscrew the tailcap, take off the tac-ring, replace, press. Still nothing. Bugger. Press HARD, repeatedly. Aha! Momentary bright flashes! Random flickers and flashes, reminds me of the problem I had with one of my recent F13s. “Bypass” the switch with a key (cell to body), and it seems to work fine, nice and steady, good mode-switching. Seems like a bolloxed switch. Eyeball the switch, and it looks like one of the unscrewing-holes on the retaining ring is drilled out bigger, and someone let the drill-bit wander along the ring. Hmmm… Not Good.

Second one seemed to work fine.

Third one, a half-wonky switch, some “missing” and flickering. Not as bad as #1, but enough to make me nervous.

Okay, my confidence is a bit shaken. Damn! I figured a quick patch-up would get them working fine, but now I’m not so sure. Without replacing the switches (any heavy-duty FC Omtens out there??), I’m not sure I could put together reliable hosts.

Anyone else have issues with the switches?

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vwpieces
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The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

mapache
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Do these group buy lights not come with spare switches and lenses?

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TF offered to send me a replacement or refund. i want a good light rather than money of course. i specifically asked for a “normal” one, one without two spacers. and the next email i got from them telling me that the light has been sent out already. i hope they understand what “normal” means. fingers crossed.

Lightbringer
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vwpieces wrote:
The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

Hmm, that jogs some memory for some reason… maybe those cheapie 3×AAA lights. Squeeze it too tightly and it stops working, that kind of thing.

 

Hmm, may be a blessing in disguise. Thinking about replacing the switch with the spare, I’m now wondering if one of those FC switches would fit into the tailcap of my (RC) ’502. That’d be totally tits!

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vwpieces
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Lightbringer wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

Hmm, that jogs some memory for some reason… maybe those cheapie 3×AAA lights. Squeeze it too tightly and it stops working, that kind of thing.

 

Hmm, may be a blessing in disguise. Thinking about replacing the switch with the spare, I’m now wondering if one of those FC switches would fit into the tailcap of my (RC) ’502. That’d be totally tits!

Could also be the plastic spacer ring is upside-down. As said you will see what I mean when you get in there.
Another pet peeve of mine it to slice the nipple inside the rubber tailcap so it does not apply any pressure to the sw button. Especially on an omten 1288.

Lightbringer
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vwpieces wrote:
The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

Hmm, it’s got the retaining ring, switch+PCB, “top-hat” spacer, and rubber boot. Everything seems to fit only one way.

Replaced everything, pressing on the spring while flicking the switch a buncha times, then liiiiightly putting the retaining ring in place, gently snugging it up.

Seems to work a bit better, but almost seems to have a NMM unless I let it settle down for quite a few seconds between mode-changes. Most disconcerting.

 

One thing I did notice is that this one tailstands perfectly, ie, the boot doesn’t protrude the 1mm or so like on my “good” VG10.

Also, there’s no “nipple” inside the rubber boot. Not sure if this one’s shaved down and why it sits flush vs protruding, as this is the first tailcap on a ’10 that I took apart (kinda tired to dissect another one, and got ‘em all from the same batch anyway) so have nothing yet to compare it with.

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Lightbringer
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vwpieces wrote:
Could also be the plastic spacer ring is upside-down. As said you will see what I mean when you get in there. Another pet peeve of mine it to slice the nipple inside the rubber tailcap so it does not apply any pressure to the sw button. Especially on an omten 1288.

Bugger, I thought someone else mentioned the nipple and umop apisdn spacer. Could’ve combined the replies… Big Smile

But nope, in this case the spacer’s like a top-hat, only one way to fit.

Inside of the boot might very well be shaved (got a bit of a “balloon” feel when first applying pressure to the boot), but can’t really be sure w/o something from a different batch to compare with.

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XXX-Man
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Lightbringer wrote:
Sounds like kiba-ru might be able to make a quick killing with perfectly-dimensioned and drilled Cu spacers!

Good idea. I will contact him when I measure precisely. Thumbs Up

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

ImA4Wheelr
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Have you tried bypassing the tailcaps all together to see how the lights work?  Using a thick paper clip or something to connect the bottom of the battery tube to the negative of the cell.

I really having rarely have used the stock VG10 switches.  The lights are much nicer with reverse-clickie switches.  So I pretty much swap them before even using the light.  Throw in a PD68 lighted tailcap board while at it.  You need not bleeder resistor with the stock driver.

EDIT: Fixed typo

Lightbringer
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Have you tried bypassing the tailcaps all together to see how the lights work?  Using a thick paper clip or something to connect the bottom of the battery tube to the negative of the cell.

Me? Yeh, in msg 106. Only a key instead of paperclip. Worked fine, which is why I zeroed in on the tailcap/switch.

Probably the same issue in one of my F13s which goes wonky like that. Will (eventually) try loosening the ring and diddling with the switch.

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Lightbringer
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Hope you get resolution soon LB.  Please keep us posted.

Oh, lordy…

I just got back a reply through Amazon, basically “Can you describe the problem in detail?”, as if no one knows what’s going on.

I did specifically mention the thread on BLF, so that in case someone there knows the problem, I could short-circuit the multiple back’n‘forth to find someone who knows about it. Guess not…

Why do I get the feeling this is going to end badly?

Whups, spoke too soon. Got a PM, just replied… Big Smile

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The Miller
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When the problems became clear, we the Q-team were a bit worried and following this
Besides TF stepping up to correct things I think Barry/Thorfire understands the importance of a well executed Q8.

Personally when I read (long ago) what “marketing talk” Thorfire wrote for the then V2 of the VG10 I wanted one, they said something like “the tactical ring sucked so we adapted it” and this was so “un-marketing” I really liked it.
Got a VG10 from BLFer X3 and liked it a lot, it started to good relationship with Barry (I wrote a little review as response to a Dutch blog and Barry shipped the S70 and S50 to me for review, starting the whole review thing for me and making them a good candidate for the Q8.

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Lightbringer wrote:
ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Hope you get resolution soon LB.  Please keep us posted.

Oh, lordy…

I just got back a reply through Amazon, basically “Can you describe the problem in detail?”, as if no one knows what’s going on.

I did specifically mention the thread on BLF, so that in case someone there knows the problem, I could short-circuit the multiple back’n‘forth to find someone who knows about it. Guess not…

Why do I get the feeling this is going to end badly?

Whups, spoke too soon. Got a PM, just replied… Big Smile

My guess is that the people that manage amazon and those that post on here are different people and work through different channels. So the right hand not talking to the left hand is my first guess in this case.

XXX-Man
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No luck for me Sad

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

Lightbringer
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Texas_Ace wrote:
My guess is that the people that manage amazon and those that post on here are different people and work through different channels. So the right hand not talking to the left hand is my first guess in this case.

Yah, I figured that, but in an early message I got

As amazon order must be handled on amazon backstage, Our customer service will contact you and take care of it.

so I figured someone on the BLF side had to get in touch with someone on the Amazon side to make anything happen.

Unno, hopefully it’ll all shake out.

 

So… what are we talking about, anyway? I was assured that I wouldn’t have to return the lights, but what’s on the table? I heard “refund or replacement, as you like”, but does that mean a 1:1 set of replacement lights?? Or 100% refund?!? Man, they’d take a bath on that if that’s the case.

I ran the ’10 on high for a few min, and it didn’t get as “warm” as I expected, so I’m suspecting the thermal path isn’t as good as it could be. That concerns me a bit, so yeah, I definitely want to fix the lights. But wow, if that’s the offer, and if that goes through, then TF is pretty stand-up.

Okay, we’ll see. More as it unfolds… Smile

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Lightbringer
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Bright side…

The holsters for the VG10? I thought they were rather big for the ’10, even in a head-down config, but either way (HU or HD) you can slide the ’10 to the side and remove it from the holster w/o undoing the velcroed flap.

But!, the holster perfectly fits my DV-S9, albeit a bit snugly. And that’s a 26650 light!

I’m using a generic Jetbeam holster (from FT, ‘though now discontinued) for my ’10, albeit in a head-up config. Same size as for a ’501, ’502, other similar-sized 18650 lights. Just need to give it a little twist to tuck the fins into the holster and get the tail to seat fully in the holster as far down as it’ll go.

Anyhoo, if anyone else thinks the supplied holster is a tad big for the ’10, you can use the holster for a bigger light, and a smaller holster for the ’10. Works out perfectly!

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