Utorch UT01 vs Thrunite T10 vs ThruNite Archer 1A V3

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Tangra
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Utorch UT01 vs Thrunite T10 vs ThruNite Archer 1A V3

I am looking for small EDC flashlight and I have stopped on this 3 options in NW version.
Personally I prefer Thrunite, but Utorch UT01 has more lumens and can stand like candle.
I am glad to hear your suggestion?

agent80
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Add in the Klarus mi7

Tangra
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agent80 wrote:
Add in the Klarus mi7

Does not have NW version.
AgentSteel
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Thrunite T10 also stands on the tail, and has a diffuser included in the box Smile
(last time I checked from youtube reviews)

Cons for the T10 is that there’s no intermediary mode between low (13 lumens) and high (252 lumens) Sad

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Olight S1A NW ?

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Mkduffer
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The Archer is significantly longer, too. 110mm vs 84 mm. The T10 is closer at 90mm. Archer is a little heavier too.

Personally, I like my UT01 a lot. At one point, I was looking at possibly getting an Archer, but decided to go with the Nitecore MT10a, which I really like. When the deals on the UTorch came out, I couldn’t resist at the price and bought both CW and NW versions. As much as I liked the MT10a, I find myself carrying the UT01 more often. It’s lighter, shorter, smaller, has nice programming and good modes and puts out a lot of light on NiMH AAs and even more with a 14500. I’ve heard of others having issues with the switch, but both of mine work just fine. Also has a decently low moonlight mode. Oh, and it’s cheaper than either of the Thrunites. 400 lumens with NiMH AA is nearly as bright as the Archer on 14500 (500 lumens, according to their engineers).

People say I’m a flashaholic like it’s a bad thing…

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A modded S2/S2+ w W2 emitter: 2k lumens, 14k candelas with a fresh battery, SMO reflector, 2700k-6500k emitteing colour, tons of drivers to choose from, waterproof, dust and drop proof: easy repairable too

The best of the best

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Tangra
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X3 wrote:
Olight S1A NW ?

What is the best price of Olight S1A NW?
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Mitko wrote:
A modded S2/S2+ w W2 emitter: 2k lumens, 14k candelas with a fresh battery, SMO reflector, 2700k-6500k emitteing colour, tons of drivers to choose from, waterproof, dust and drop proof: easy repairable too

The best of the best

tested alot, this is the best


OP didn’t specify it, but I guess he wants an AA/14500 flashlight Smile

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Tangra wrote:
X3 wrote:
Olight S1A NW ?

What is the best price of Olight S1A NW?

You won’t find it on chinese sites, FastTech only has CW version and other sites don’t have it.
Your best guess is Amazon, at the MSRP of 50$.
Try contacting M4DM4X, he might have a better price Smile

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Tangra
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X3 wrote:
Tangra wrote:
X3 wrote:
Olight S1A NW ?

What is the best price of Olight S1A NW?

You won’t find it on chinese sites, FastTech only has CW version and other sites don’t have it.
Your best guess is Amazon, at the MSRP of 50$.
Try contacting M4DM4X, he might have a better price Smile

Thanks.
My limit is 30$. I think Olight S1A NW is minimum 40-45, so I will pass.
Probably I will get first Utorch UT01 and if I do not like will take Thrunite.
What is max lumens of Thrunite T10 with 14500?
Mkduffer
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Tangra wrote:
What is max lumens of Thrunite T10 with 14500?

They don’t list it on their website, but in the past, I’ve emailed sales@thrunite.com and got pretty quick answers.

People say I’m a flashaholic like it’s a bad thing…

kramer5150
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Some hidden data points regarding the UT01 (and Manker E11)
>It does not accept protected 14500… must use unprotected cells!!!
>It is user programmable to some degree. The Lo, Med, Hi, Turbo have 3 brightness options each. I am not sure what the factory default settings are, but I have mine programmed for ~1.2L, ~55L, ~400L and ~700L. This aspect alone sets it apart from any other 14500 / AA light.
>Hi and Turbo are lower output with NiMH. Its almost like another light… long, cool and efficient running.
>It doesn’t have a truly Sub-Lumen firefly mode. Its lowest setting is around 1.5L.
>It doesn’t use any PWM on any low output mode, not even a “hybrid PWM” like some of the thrunite lights.
>Its identical to the Manker E11… get whichever one is cheaper.
>It has two springs double stacked in the tailcap. Be careful when unscrewing, when new it can POP off if you are not careful.
>Like all e-switches it has parasitic drain, although its VERY low. Its still good practice to unscrew the tailcap to lock out power and prevent accidental turn on.
>Turbo mode has a step down after 2.5-3 minutes to avoid overheating. So the brightest setting is really only a short burst kind of thing IMHO.
>The pocket clip is SUPER tight, both around the light body and when clipped onto fabrics. I have to pull it open to get it around the hemmed fabric of my jeans. But once it bites down its clamped SOLID, no letting go… which is a good thing for me.
>Every once in a while I find my self missing a tailcap clicky, particularly cigar holding doing tasks.
>These lights have a well document history of switch defects… so you are going to be playing switch lottery.

MAD TM26
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kramer5150 wrote:

>It does not accept protected 14500… must use unprotected cells!!!
Or you can use the paperclip trick.

>The pocket clip is SUPER tight, both around the light body and when clipped onto fabrics. I have to pull it open to get it around the hemmed fabric of my jeans. But once it bites down its clamped SOLID, no letting go… which is a good thing for me.
Agreed. I also find myself using the pocket clip on this light much often than any other light I’ve owned. i.e., I only tried the Mi7 with its pocket clip once and removed it right after due to its very weak design.

>These lights have a well document history of switch defects… so you are going to be playing switch lottery.
I would say its really worth playing the lottery Wink

we buy light for a brighter tomorrow

Streamer
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kramer5150 wrote:
>Turbo mode has a step down after 2.5-3 minutes to avoid overheating. So the brightest setting is really only a short burst kind of thing IMHO.

In the program mode, Turbo can be run without step down.

Tangra
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Actually after reading about some problems I canceld order of Utorch UT01. Instead ordeded Eagle Eye X5R with XPL HI.
Totaly different light.
After some time I will star thinking again for AA/14500 light and probably brand will be Thrunite. May be Archer 1A.
But I am still impressed to have 700 lumens so Manker E11 is option.
Does manker E11 has better quality than UT01?

kramer5150
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Streamer wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
>Turbo mode has a step down after 2.5-3 minutes to avoid overheating. So the brightest setting is really only a short burst kind of thing IMHO.

In the program mode, Turbo can be run without step down.


This is true… although it gets HOT with an IMR 14500. I wouldn’t run it like that without closely monitoring temps.
kramer5150
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Tangra wrote:
Actually after reading about some problems I canceld order of Utorch UT01. Instead ordeded Eagle Eye X5R with XPL HI. Totaly different light. After some time I will star thinking again for AA/14500 light and probably brand will be Thrunite. May be Archer 1A. But I am still impressed to have 700 lumens so Manker E11 is option. Does manker E11 has better quality than UT01?

No they are completely identical, outside of very minor outside cosmetics and branding. They use the same EXACT driver board.
this is my E01

Streamer
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kramer5150 wrote:
Streamer wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
>Turbo mode has a step down after 2.5-3 minutes to avoid overheating. So the brightest setting is really only a short burst kind of thing IMHO.

In the program mode, Turbo can be run without step down.


This is true… although it gets HOT with an IMR 14500. I wouldn’t run it like that without closely monitoring temps.

I never run any of my lights on Turbo except for short less than 10 second bursts. 2.5-3 minutes is a ridiculously long time. Crazy.. No need for all that excessive heat if it can be avoided. Really, if I need blinding WOW! light, I’ll fire up the L6

kramer5150
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x2 on all accounts…. including the L6 WOW factor.

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I usually use my lights on turbo if outside I can’t stand a turbo timer under 3 mins usually get a driver swap with no timer or a reflash, low in the mornings getting ready for work. Or using it for a nightlight. I have a stock eagle eye x6 with probably over 12,000 hours on.

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