Testing a Cree XHP50.2 J4 3A led

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Texas_Ace
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Remember that the xhp runs at 6v so 24A at 6V would be the same as 48A at 3V. AKA, it would get VERY VERY hot. You will really need a buck driver to drive these as well due to the super low Vf they have. 4 of them together could pull as much as 72A of current on a low resistance FET driver based on other peoples results.

That is a whopping 425W of power! Or over 5 times the amount of heat that the Q8 produces right now. Also I would not trust the LED’s to survive that long term.

That said, the xhp50.2 should be capable of about 5k lumens each maxed out although 3.5-4k each is a more reasonable goal IMHO. It also keeps the heat a bit more reasonable.

As I have said before, a quad xhp50.2 Q8 should be able to make around 15k lumens without much trouble and more if you push it. Or drop it down to ~10k lumens and it should have about the same amount of heat and battery life as the XP-L’s at ~6k lumens. If you just really want to hit 16k lumens for the numbers to match up, then yes, that should be possible.

Now for the green tint, this is not really an issue I have noticed unless you get a funky tint LED from above the black body line (like a 3C vs the good 3D for example).

The newer LED’s do have some yellow tint shift but that is largely reflector dependent from what I have seen. Larger and deeper reflectors with OP don’t have an issue.

Optics like the cute-3 work great and removing all the tint shift but that would not really work for the Q8.

The only practical way of doing this is to use a buck driver with the cells in 4s and the LED’s in 2s2p. By upping the voltage to 12V you drop the current needs down to around 12A. This is doable with repetitively cheap buck drivers like a beefed up version of the GT driver.

Wired in 6V they would need twice the current and the driver would cost a fair amount more as well.

Basically a Q16 is possible and would work for sure but would also cost more for sure.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

tjeret
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stormrider88 wrote:
Ok, here is a close-up of the S2…
1 tiny resistor is quite close to the XML2 (?)

!{width:70%}http://i.imgur.com/5yAr02l.jpg!

The component/connector is pretty decent, light brand/type ?
Can you wrote marking/code on top of U1 please? Interesting package for IC

Resistor near LED possibly a Thermistor (marking RT1) act as thermal feedback for the driver itself

The Miller
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cool. thanks TA!

Lexel
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stormrider88 wrote:
Ok, here is a close-up of the S2…
1 tiny resistor is quite close to the XML2 (?)


In this picture you see XPL HD LEDs with 3535 footprint, XML2 have 5050 footprint and wont fit

You can replace em with Nichia 219 High CRI LEDs

clemence
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Hahaha nice one Lexel, I never played with XML2 too much, I didn’t put too much attention to the LED when I saw the picture.

@Stormrider: he ask you to write him the code/type of the big IC in the middle between the LED

clemence
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No, I did different exposures to show the beam profile clearer. The XPL is slightly brighter than 319A.

Check Texas_Ace’s signature for the test results. He did a very good test comparing XPL/XPL2 and 319A a while back.

clemence
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Stormrider, I suggest you to create a new thread in Headlight section. We’ll continue there, for the sake of better indexing. So people will get what they “googled” for in BLF.

We’re already too far off the original topic here. This is a very interesting topic indeed and I think we better share it in the matching section so people can easily find it when they need related information.

See you there… Smile

- Clemence

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stormrider88 wrote:
Good idea…

Should I start a new thread or just pick any related topic??

I think a new topic would be better. Smile

Texas_Ace
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Running them in 6v in series or in 12V in parallel will net you the same results. Each LED will get 2.4A in series but they will only be at 6V, so the same amount of light at 1.2A at 12V.

The Second Amendment is in place in case the politicians ignore the others.

Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else. -- Frederic Bastiat , French economist(1801-1850)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT

How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved

clemence
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I never really like triples or quads (except for tint mixing) as long as I can use bigger dies LED in a single optics. Smaller TIR will eats up efficiency and make beam control somewhat limited. If you have 4 XPGs and 1 XHP50 and you only want one beam profile pattern then go for XHP50 paired to a single bigger optics. For multi beam pattern try assymetric optics. If it’s unavailable then 4 different unique optics would be the next choice. FYI the output/efficacy of 4 x XPG3 setup is almost equal to a single XHP50.2.

- Clemence

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