Here’s a recent mod I did to a Convoy S2+. The host is one of the blue Convoys with the beautiful metal clicky switch. I’ve had this laying around for awhile, but finally decided to do something with it.
- Installed DrJones H17F driver and triple XPL HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon
- Carclo 10507 Optic
- Significantly reduced overall length of the light.
Overview and pictures:
. I used the same technique I used in a previous mod.
Note the picture above was taken from a previous mod on a Convoy S2+ pill a couple years ago. I used the same technique for the new mod, but used XPL-HI emitters and an H17F driver.
- Grind off the back of the pill I used a grinding bit and a hand drill, then filed it flat. If you’re patient you can accomplish this step using just a handfile.
- Use a handfile to remove the forward section of threads near where the emitter sits. The S2+‘s head isn’t fully threaded so this is necessary to allow the pill to seat further forward. You can see on the picture above how the sides of the pill below the emitters are smooth. This is because I ground off the threads.
- Grind out new ledge for the driver in the sides of the back pill. To do this I placed the pill upside down in a vise. Then I bent a small piece of aluminum into a “U” shape with a flat bottom. and placed it upside down in side the pill. I cut away the legs of the “U” till it sat just a few mm inside the pill. Then I used a cylindrical grinding bit in a hand drill with no grinding edge on the bottom to grind the edge of the pill. The “U” acted as a stand to prevent the grinding bit from slipping further in.
. I chose a DrJones H17F for this build and triple XPL-HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon. Due to the nice brass pill, it was possible to solder the driver in for an excellent ground connection.
. With a dramatically shorter pill, the light was usable as-is with the 18350 tube, but with an 18500 inside. However, I’ve already done that before and wanted to make this an 18650 light. With the much reduced pill, the battery compartment is much too large for an 18650 cell. I considered sawing the battery tube in half and using the “human lathe” method to shorten the battery tube. But then I realized there was a much easier way to shorten this light:
- I took a hacksaw and sawed a large chunk of the back of the head off. Since the pill threads and the battery tube threads are the same, this worked well. I then filed it flat.
- The threads on the battery tube were hitting the back of the pill so I used a handfile to remove approximate 2 mm of threads. There’s still more than enough threads left for a strong fit.
- I used the same technique described in Step 1 for grinding out a driver ledge in the back of the driver to grind out the bottom couple mm of threads in the head. This allows the head to fully seat and still be o-ring sealed. this operation was the hardest part of the mod. I messed up the first time and had to take a little more off than I anticipated when the grinding bit slipped. Fortunately, for anyone else trying it, this step is also purely optional. It’s only needed if you want a waterproof light and don’t want to glue the head to the body tube.
NOTE: the stand that I made to hold the grinding bit at the right height for this operation was a bit more complex than the “U” described previously. For this operation I cut 2 disks of sheet copper sized to the inside of the light. Then made a rectangle from a strip of copper and placed it upright between the 2 copper disks. I soldered all 3 pieces of copper together to make a secure stand that would sit inside the head while I used the drill bit. I did the grinding with the pill removed.
: a much more pocket-friendly 1×18650 Convoy. Entire light is now just 102mm long, compared to 118mm for the stock light. A full 16mm was removed. It is now definitely one of the shortest 1×18650 tube lights with a clicky tailcap switch! Here are some more pictures:
I am quite pleased with the performance of this light and really like how it came out. I limited the turbo output to 3 amps as I found that on FET modes the head got far too hot given the tiny head and lack of heatsink fins. Since the heatsinking isn’t good enough to hotrod for max output, I’ll probably skip adding a wire bypass to the tailcap spring.
Overall, this mod wasn’t really all that hard to do. I give it an intermediate level of difficulty. Well worth a try for anyone with basic modding experience who wants an extremely short tailcap clicky tube light.
- Lighted tailcap – I have some on order, and I hear with this driver, they should slot right in with no need to install any resistors. Should illuminate the white rubber ring around the metal tailcap clicky.
- Possible anodizing removal – I saw the beautiful polished S2+ someone had in the “What did you mod today?” thread. Also, I started filing the inside of the tailcap before I realized it wasn’t necessary. That’s why the inner edge of the tailcap near the battery tube shows bare aluminum.
- Open up a couple mm inside the battery tube – currently the light only fits unprotected flat tops. I originally had a bit more room inside the light, but the grinding bit slipped when I was carving out the threads at the head to make way for the o-ring and I had to take off a bit extra at the head. I should be able to makeup this extra space by filing down the copper post at the back of the driver and the top of the tailcap retaining ring.